[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by autoart

That video is interesting. I like how he explains how important it is tho keep the engine clean. Then at 15:47 he uses a piece of wood instead of a mallet, and you can clearly see bits of wood go in the engine.

I just like how it looks entirely possible to use ARP bolts on the N54 by just torquing them down to 36# in 3 stages.

I read about this on spool street.


https://bmw.***********.com/threads/...nt.4285/page-2

There was a big debate whether you can or can't.

The regular OEM bolts use 14-15# (20nm) and then two separate 70 degree turns. That's gotta be well over 36#.

I do realize that when using ARP bolts you are using their special lubricant vs engine oil, and that they are designed to tighten by using the threads & the head vs just using the tension on the head (all regular bolts).

[nissubaru]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I just like how it looks entirely possible to use ARP bolts on the N54 by just torquing them down to 36# in 3 stages.

I read about this on spool street.


https://bmw.***********.com/threads/...nt.4285/page-2

There was a big debate whether you can or can't.

The regular OEM bolts use 14-15# (20nm) and then two separate 70 degree turns. That's gotta be well over 36#.

I do realize that when using ARP bolts you are using their special lubricant vs engine oil, and that they are designed to tighten by using the threads & the head vs just using the tension on the head (all regular bolts).

Look into rod end distortion with ARP bolts. You may have read about it on the M3s but I just asked an extremely well respected BMW engine builder which bolts he would use on the N54 and he said OEM because of this issue. Out of respect for the engine builder I'm not going to drop his name here but I'd take his word over anyone.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by nissubaru

Look into rod end distortion with ARP bolts. You may have read about it on the M3s but I just asked an extremely well respected BMW engine builder which bolts he would use on the N54 and he said OEM because of this issue. Out of respect for the engine builder I'm not going to drop his name here but I'd take his word over anyone.

Is it Ghassan???

[nissubaru]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Is it Ghassan???

Nope hes based out of NJ and holds the current hp record for the N54 in red 135i. I'm sure many people know him. I've probably bothered him more than I should over Instagram with random questions like that one but hes been nice enough to reply to most of my questions if they aren't dumb or easily found elsewhere. Since he's doing me a favor by replying I'm trying to respect his privacy. But he's legit

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by nissubaru

Look into rod end distortion with ARP bolts. You may have read about it on the M3s but I just asked an extremely well respected BMW engine builder which bolts he would use on the N54 and he said OEM because of this issue. Out of respect for the engine builder I'm not going to drop his name here but I'd take his word over anyone.

I would be curious to see what Fuer has to say on this topic

[vince.salg]

Kinda same thing happened to me. I was FBO, mhd v7 87k miles and I honestly never really ran the car super hard. Kept up with maintenance, new spark plugs, frequent oil changes...It was just a daily but like I said I never really ran it hard.
Took the engine out and took it apart and the bearing on cylinder was scored and also the journal.

[B6T]

Not sure why you'd want to go with ARP bolts... I'd imagine that they really only have a place in a higher-revving engine where you're subjecting the bolts to higher levels of tension from higher engine speeds (i.e. S65, S85).

With a relatively low revving engine like the N54, where the engine's power comes from turbocharging, and comparatively the forces on the rod are more compressive, the stock bolts are likely more than suitable.

IMO, the rod bolts in an N54 shouldn't see any difference in stress level whether the engine is stock or 500hp, as long as the rev limit is maintained in both scenarios.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Is it Ghassan???

Ghassan isn’t an engine builder, nor respected, but just a good scam artist.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I would be curious to see what Fuer has to say on this topic

I’ve worked on some cars that came from his shop, swapped with junk yard pulled engines, not even cleaned, with bunch a parts missing from the car, parts that should not have been removed as there was no need. Every major city has good enough shops to fix these engines and shipping cars to Ghassan or getting engines from there is absolutely not needed.

BMW changed the design on the rod bolts. The new bolts have 3 ribs toward the head. OE didn’t. Maybe is to make them stronger as the same bolts are used for newer engines that generate more power.

Also, if you are doing this under the car, APR bolts will present bigger challenge, more steps, more possible mistakes. Proper tools are required for both style bolts

[feuer]

Originally Posted by vince.salg

Kinda same thing happened to me. I was FBO, mhd v7 87k miles and I honestly never really ran the car super hard. Kept up with maintenance, new spark plugs, frequent oil changes...It was just a daily but like I said I never really ran it hard.
Took the engine out and took it apart and the bearing on cylinder was scored and also the journal.

I’m sorry. Are you rebuilding or swapping?

[_N54]

Originally Posted by feuer

Ghassan isn’t an engine builder, nor respected, but just a good scam artist.

I actually came across his eBay listing. How does he scam? Sells a used fresh painted engine and claims that it's been rebuilt?

[nissubaru]

Originally Posted by B6T

Not sure why you'd want to go with ARP bolts... I'd imagine that they really only have a place in a higher-revving engine where you're subjecting the bolts to higher levels of tension from higher engine speeds (i.e. S65, S85).

With a relatively low revving engine like the N54, where the engine's power comes from turbocharging, and comparatively the forces on the rod are more compressive, the stock bolts are likely more than suitable.

IMO, the rod bolts in an N54 shouldn't see any difference in stress level whether the engine is stock or 500hp, as long as the rev limit is maintained in both scenarios.

I think it was the "ease" of installation in the sense that you didn't need to do both torque and angle like on the OEM bolts, just torque to 36 pounds in 3 different steps and you're good to go. Idk if those are even the proper torque specs for our engines, sounds like the procedure for the S65

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arings/5rZSb5m

Here's the N54 procedure

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...arings/5rMcGF1

[vince.salg]

Originally Posted by feuer

I'm sorry. Are you rebuilding or swapping?

I ended up just swapping the motor, if you guys need any parts from my old motor let me know. I'm in the process of taking it apart to see if I can sell them and make some money back

[feuer]

Originally Posted by ///S58

I actually came across his eBay listing. How does he scam? Sells a used fresh painted engine and claims that it's been rebuilt?

Not even painted nor cleaned. Local shop received “rebuild” n55. As any knowledge shop they inspected the engine while still on the pallet. Found what they found and informed customer to take the issue with ghassan. They shipped the engine back and Ghassan claimed that they shipped different engine. Don’t need to tell you who was out of $5000 do I? Local guy shipped the car and received used engine swap. They paid for stronger piston , rods, all that. Response was: tech started the build engine without oil and out of fear of loosing his job over night swapped used engine. Really? Car went back and returned with used engine again, different transmission, missing parts....why would someone go through that? Just find a local shop.

[_N54]

Originally Posted by feuer

tech started the build engine without oil

LOL that's all you had to tell me.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by vince.salg

I ended up just swapping the motor, if you guys need any parts from my old motor let me know. I'm in the process of taking it apart to see if I can sell them and make some money back

Maybe some pistons and rods for me.

[vince.salg]

Originally Posted by feuer

Maybe some pistons and rods for me.

I'll finish taking it apart & take some pictures of them soon. Just let me know if you're still interested in them when I send the pictures

[B6T]

What's a rod-knockin' N54 long block (bare head/block) worth? Boat anchor duty? Or possible conversion to currency?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by B6T

What's a rod-knockin' N54 long block (bare head/block) worth? Boat anchor duty? Or possible conversion to currency?

Oh, I'd imagine an all aluminum block for the N54 is worth something. There are folks out there that can take it and rebuild it.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by feuer

Not even painted nor cleaned. Local shop received "rebuild" n55. As any knowledge shop they inspected the engine while still on the pallet. Found what they found and informed customer to take the issue with ghassan. They shipped the engine back and Ghassan claimed that they shipped different engine. Don't need to tell you who was out of $5000 do I? Local guy shipped the car and received used engine swap. They paid for stronger piston , rods, all that. Response was: tech started the build engine without oil and out of fear of loosing his job over night swapped used engine. Really? Car went back and returned with used engine again, different transmission, missing parts....why would someone go through that? Just find a local shop.

Looks like I'll just get the new, updated version of the rod bearings bolts. No ARP for me 😉

You can get a digital angle gadget for your torque wrench for $100

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Looks like I'll just get the new, updated version of the rod bearings bolts. No ARP for me 😉

You can get a digital angle gadget for your torque wrench for $100

I use Snap-On, about $500 used, but this job can be done without it.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by feuer

I use Snap-On, about $500 used, but this job can be done without it.

I was thinking about this one


Brown Line Metalworks BLDAG001 Digital Angle Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP8E61E..._kLDbFb4EMSBSZ

Or maybe just getting another torque wrench all together that reads angles like this one below


Flex Head Electronic Torque Wrench with Angle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TFHW17F..._KMDbFbE2G4HNE