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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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low beam flicker
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02-15-2016, 07:47 PM | #1 |
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low beam flicker
hey guys I installed angel eyes about a year ago and I am now getting some low beam flicker. I was wondering if anybody else has had this experience. frankly I'm not sure how good s job I did at seating the lights in the housing since it was so cramped. even worse my water meth system is blocking my access to the back of the headlight housing. what a pain. last but not least I actually got an error light about the low beams on my dash. I have to hand it to bmw... There is nothing on this car that does not have its own warning light.
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02-15-2016, 08:01 PM | #2 | |
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02-15-2016, 08:17 PM | #3 | ||
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02-15-2016, 09:31 PM | #5 | |
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I thought your low beam was flickering. If the low beam is flickering its likely the ballast that fires the low beam light. If its the AE, it could be a faulty bulb. poor connection. |
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02-15-2016, 10:26 PM | #6 | |
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02-15-2016, 10:47 PM | #7 |
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Flickering as in the light itself or just a physical jittering of the light when you hit a bump such as a bridge joint?
If you got a warning light then it may be electrical related and either the connection, ballast/igniter issue, moisture issue or the age of the bulb. Igniter is integrated in to the D1S bulb itself, ballast is attached to the housing and is connected to the igniter/bulb by a metal braided wiring harness. Check your headlight for connections issues and/or water ingress. Swapping from the good side is a method to narrow down your failed component. Please do not fire-up your HID with out bulb being in the housing and do not touch any wiring. 23kV is not fun. |
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02-16-2016, 05:22 AM | #8 |
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+1.
Also, what about high beam? The HID light is always just on. When you switch to high beams, a shutter simply moves out of the way and exposes the entire light beam to the projector lens. Is your shutter broken? Or is the light source itself flickering off and on? If this is the case, your ballast/igniter is likely shot--but this would affect high beams also. Hope it is the bulb/ballast/ignitor. If it's the shutter, you'll be buying an entire headlight assembly. |
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02-16-2016, 10:10 PM | #9 | |
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Ballast and the related electrical issues, including the age of the D1S bulbs is one thing and is easy to diagnose. On the mechanical side, there is the mounting integrity of the whole housing that one needs to look at, then there are internal issues, but that is primarily design related. Can be eliminated if one is patient enough and brave enough to crack their perma-sealed housings. Will be happy to give the visual if someone cares enough about these details. Lastly, if someone's internal high beam solenoid is fried or the high beam shutter is dislodged, there is a way to fix it without resorting to the whole new headlight assembly. Well, at least in theory on my end for now. |
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02-16-2016, 10:25 PM | #10 |
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I agree, but I disassembled a headlight assembly from a wreck just to see if I could do it. Couldn't do it without breaking it (I didn't resort to the oven). Bottom line is, we need more info from Chief to make a proper diagnosis.
He said the problem only manifested on low beams. That is a mystery. |
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02-16-2016, 10:31 PM | #11 | |
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02-16-2016, 10:33 PM | #12 | |
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02-16-2016, 10:44 PM | #15 | |
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I don't know about you guys, but I have also been throwing error codes for the rear brake lights for the better part of 18 months based on the readings from Carly. however my brake lights function perfectly but I can't seem to clear the brake light code. I did a tiny amount of coding with Carly around folding side view mirrors. I hope this coding did not somehow corrupt the readings for my electrical system. I have read too many nightmare stories about the weird foot well electrical junction box. |
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02-16-2016, 10:46 PM | #16 | |
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02-16-2016, 11:16 PM | #17 |
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Based on this, it is your bulb/ballast or an electrical connection such as grounding etc. Moisture ingress is not ruled out as it will affect all of the above.
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02-17-2016, 05:28 PM | #19 |
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Be careful when troubleshooting. This is what the ballast will look like (or similar). The outputs of this will be at extremely high voltage, which means the same goes for any wiring attached to it. An easy way to diagnose is switching bulbs, see if the problem persists on the other side. Then switch igniters (attaches to back of bulb) and perform same procedure. Then do the ballasts.
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02-18-2016, 08:12 AM | #20 | |
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02-29-2016, 10:46 AM | #21 |
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Chief, what did you find was wrong?
Also, regarding your Carly codes for tail lights, go back through the coding parameters for the lights and look to see if the car is set to perform bulb checks. If I remember correctly, for every LED-driven light, you can tell it not to perform this check. That should fix it. |
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03-01-2016, 12:46 PM | #22 |
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Chief be careful with that or you'll get the shit shocked out of you ok amigo
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