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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > YCW Coilovers - Review



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      06-10-2017, 02:03 AM   #45
N54POWR
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I have a set of ycw coming next week or so. Very excited to get them on. For the Monroe mounts in the rear. Does the box come with the set of left and right? Or do I need to buy 2 top and 2 bottom?
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      06-10-2017, 07:52 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by N54POWR View Post
I have a set of ycw coming next week or so. Very excited to get them on. For the Monroe mounts in the rear. Does the box come with the set of left and right? Or do I need to buy 2 top and 2 bottom?
One box for each side has mounts for top and bottom
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      07-02-2017, 10:53 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
Latest Update:

Swapped out the SWIFT 4k springs (178mm) for SWIFT 6k springs (178mm). I also raised my front and rear ride height to 22". This provides for 3/8" rake. The rear A-arms sit just about parallel to the ground. The front-end could probably be lowered another 1/4" to get the front arms to be parallel to the ground. I also had it aligned to 2* negative camber.

The car plowed like a pig at an autocross yesterday. It was horrible. The pavement was also terrible and dirty, but that doesn't change that the car was ALL understeer. I had to use the throttle to power over-steer to get the car to rotate. I was essentially drifting around.

I conclude that a 27mm front sway bar combined with 6k front spring is just TOO STIFF for 255 (200tw) tires up front. Maybe things will change when the temperature rises a bit more. It was cold at 50-60f and the RS3's weren't providing much traction. Again, that doesn't change that the car was plowing like crazy.

I was MUCH happier with 4k/16k. No, not an even F:R ratio (4k/12k), but the 27mm bar made up for the lower front roll resistance provided by the 4k springs. Problem with those rates were that my ride height was too low. Next weekend I'll try running with the front swaybar disconnected and see how it feels.

I also have the damping set to 7/7 front and 6/7 rear to reduce bounce on the street. Maybe I'll trying reducing front damping to something like 5/7 before I disconnect the swaybar.
Really curious here. Been following your posts as I have he same set up on a 135i (18x9 square ET45 wheels with 245/35/18).

When you adjust your dampening and you say 5/7 what does that mean? Is 7/7 full "track" on the coil over adjustment knob or full soft?

Thanks,
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      07-03-2017, 04:40 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deesea View Post
Really curious here. Been following your posts as I have he same set up on a 135i (18x9 square ET45 wheels with 245/35/18).

When you adjust your dampening and you say 5/7 what does that mean? Is 7/7 full "track" on the coil over adjustment knob or full soft?

Thanks,
The adjustment controls rebound.

I found that I had rebound set too stiff. The suspension was "jacking down." I think I updated this elsewhere, but I've lost track of everything at this point.

I also found that the car doesn't like rake at all. The aerodynamic gains arent worth it.

Current setup:
255 square on 17x9 wheels. Front has 20mm spacers so front wheelbase is way wider than rear. Might add the front bar back because of this.


* 6k/16k
* Front sway deleted (might add it back soon)
* Sofened up the rebound. 4/7 Front and 3/7 rear (defintely only want to change this 1 click at a time until it feels good. I had it at 6/7 on track the car didn't handle well mid corner. Turned it down a bit and car was way more planted)
* 0 preload on the front springs
* front ride height: 22" with 17" wheels (length maxed out)
* rear ride height: 21.5" with 17" wheels

With less rake the car feels far more balanced. I think it's between 0" and 1/4" like stock with current ride height.

Last edited by bbnks2; 07-03-2017 at 07:55 PM..
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      07-03-2017, 06:11 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
The adjustment controls rebound.

I found that I had rebound set too stiff. The suspension was "jacking down." I think I updated this elsewhere, but I've lost track of everything at this point.

I also found that the car doesn't like rake at all. The aerodynamic gains arent worth it.

Current setup:
255 square on 17x9 wheels. Front has 20mm spacers so front wheelbase is way wider than rear. Might add the front bar back because of this.


* 6k/16k
* Front sway deleted (might add it back soon)
* Sofened up the rebound. 4/7 Front and 3/7 rear (defintely only want to change this 1 click at a time until it feels good. I had it at 6/7 on track the car didn't handle well mid corner)
* 0 preload on the front springs
* front ride height: 22" with 17" wheels (length maxed out)
* rear ride height: 21.5" with 17" wheels

With less rake the car feels far more balanced. I think it's between 0" and 1/4" like stock with current ride height.
So in this case, the 4/7 represents three clicks towards T (stiffening of the rebound)? I found that over repeated bumps, the car pogos around, should I be softening it or stiffening it even more to reduce the pogo effect? It doesn't quite bounce as the dampers settle the springs right after one oscillation, so I guess pogo is the next best word.
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      07-03-2017, 06:18 PM   #50
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Adjustment is 0-6 (T-S), so 4/7 is 4 clicks clockwise (reverse on the rear dampers as they are inverted), with 0 being faster rebound and 6 being slower rebound

The slower the rebound, the less "bounce" you will get over single small bumps, but over repeated bumps, you would want slightly faster rebound. Swaybar size/setup will also affect this, as a stiffer swaybar is similar to increasing your spring rate (which means faster rebound)

If you've just installed the coilovers, you will find that it takes a few miles for the dampers and springs to settle in

Note that with independent rear setups + linear springs, it's impossible to eliminate "bounce" as it's part and parcel of this type of setup (but in return, you get much better performance over progressive springs). The BMW is quite a heavy car though, so isn't too bad. Try out a VW Golf or Honda Civic (later models) with coilovers and you'll know what I mean

Last edited by MFactory; 07-03-2017 at 06:25 PM..
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      07-04-2017, 11:13 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deesea View Post
So in this case, the 4/7 represents three clicks towards T (stiffening of the rebound)? I found that over repeated bumps, the car pogos around, should I be softening it or stiffening it even more to reduce the pogo effect? It doesn't quite bounce as the dampers settle the springs right after one oscillation, so I guess pogo is the next best word.
Yes, front struts both get adjusted clockwise to stiffen the rebound. Rears are upside down but same deal.

Try reducing rebound first. Then increase it 1 click at a time and give it a good day of driving to get a feel for it.

Like stated above, linear springs and digressive valving isnt going to feel like stock no matter what you do. You wont have a plush ride like stock. I find the car is fantastic over 40mph, but you really feel the difference in ride quality at lower speeds during city driving. It's a bit of a tradeoff of getting better handling on smooth roads

Rear ride height should be kept lower too to keep rear preload low. Again, as stated above the rears arent true independent coilovers.

Last edited by bNks334; 07-04-2017 at 11:19 AM..
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      07-04-2017, 11:17 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
Yes, front struts both get adjusted clockwise to stiffen the rebound. Rears are upside down but same deal.

Try reducing rebound first. Then increase it 1 click at a time and give it a good day of driving to get a feel for it.

Like stated above, linear springs and digressive valving isnt going to feel like stock no matter what you do. You wont have a plush ride like stock. I find the car is fantastic over 40mph, but you really feel the difference in ride quality at lower speeds during city driving. It's a bit of a tradeoff of getting better handling on smooth roads
fair point. Funny enough i had it set a 3/7 front and 4/7 rears with a full car, the thing rode amazing. With just me, it pogo-ed around like no tomorrow.

Wonder what the cause of that was...
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      07-04-2017, 01:10 PM   #53
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fair point. Funny enough i had it set a 3/7 front and 4/7 rears with a full car, the thing rode amazing. With just me, it pogo-ed around like no tomorrow.

Wonder what the cause of that was...
Having more weight is similar to having slower rebound
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      07-04-2017, 02:29 PM   #54
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Having more weight is similar to having slower rebound
So when turning the dial more towards the "Soft" setting, I presume I'm slowing down the rebound?
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      07-04-2017, 02:54 PM   #55
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Correct, yes
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      04-07-2018, 10:39 PM   #56
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFactory View Post
Having more weight is similar to having slower rebound
So when turning the dial more towards the "Soft" setting, I presume I'm slowing down the rebound?
What did you do to get rid of pogo effect ?
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      04-08-2018, 04:22 PM   #57
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What did you do to get rid of pogo effect ?
you need more rebound and/or compression.

simply put, the shock, with its current setting, can't dampen the spring.
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      04-08-2018, 04:28 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian2485 View Post
What did you do to get rid of pogo effect ?
you need more rebound and/or compression.

simply put, the shock, with its current setting, can't dampen the spring.
So i should put it to its stiffest setting ? I had it at its stiffest and still felt the pogo effect
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      05-02-2018, 11:05 PM   #59
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Now that our new facility is up and running, we are offering all customers their first damper re-valve free of charge:

1) You run the coilovers to determine what areas you find ok, and what needs improved (e.g harshness, bouncy etc)
2) You ship us your dampers (dampers only)
3) We will re-valve them to your requirements, then ship them back to you
4) If you wish to change spring rate at the same time, we can offer you a good discount on a new set of Swift Springs

All the customer pays are the shipping costs (+ springs if required).

Please PM me for more info
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      05-03-2018, 10:26 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFactory View Post
Now that our new facility is up and running, we are offering all customers their first damper re-valve free of charge:

1) You run the coilovers to determine what areas you find ok, and what needs improved (e.g harshness, bouncy etc)
2) You ship us your dampers (dampers only)
3) We will re-valve them to your requirements, then ship them back to you
4) If you wish to change spring rate at the same time, we can offer you a good discount on a new set of Swift Springs

All the customer pays are the shipping costs (+ springs if required).

Please PM me for more info
I have 6k/18k springs if i were to put 4k/12k springs on would i need to re valve my dampers ?
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      05-03-2018, 10:27 AM   #61
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Anyone here with 4k/12k springs that can give a review on them
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      05-03-2018, 11:54 AM   #62
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Anyone here with 4k/12k springs that can give a review on them
I tried to revamp page 1 to better reflect my experience with 4k/12k. The car sat low with around 4.25" of ground clearance up front. Preloading the spring got me to 4.5" I believe. It's an agressive look but I wanted to be closer to bmwp height of 5.25" ground clearance so I went back to 6k.

Damping seems sufficient to me. The car will actually jack down if I run at 7/7. If anything, there is a low speed/high speed tuning that could be done. My car absolutely soaks up big dips in the road. No bounce. It handles them better than a softly sprung Nissan or civic. That bounces over those bumps. However, around town very small impacts like cracks in pavement seems to cause a bit of bounce. To me, that feels more like a result of the very high spring rates (6k/16k) and digressive valving.

I am tempted to move to 7k/20k to gain a but more bump travel in the rear, but I just can't be bothered to work on the suspension again.
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