[mweisdorfer]

I checked all of my connection points along the entire intake system. I even put my hand all the down the left side of the rear of the engine to feel for the outlet & inlet of the rear turbo. Both are on solid as a rock.

I have newer titanium cured vacuum lines at 3.5mm.

Newer gaskets at all connection points along the intake track.

I do have silicone inlets & outlets. They are tightened down pretty hard at all connection points.

I can only generate 6# of boost max on stage 1, which would is supposed to generate 15-17# of boost.

When I go WOT, the car generates a 1/2 engine light. However, it doesn't seem to really cut the power.

At low revs, I can hear the turbos spool up.

The car seems to struggle at getting up to speed.

I checked the boost reserve, holding tanks for a lack of better terms. They hold pressure no problem.

I can hear a whooshing sound (almost like air escaping) coming from the left side of the engine from in the cockpit as I pick up speed. This didn't sound like this up until I got the 300ff code.

I can't produce this sound sitting in the garage in park having my son push on the gas pedal while I listen for the sound.

The only weak link to the entire system is the turbo (boost) actuators. They are original to the car and have 163,000 miles on them. I have sense ordered 2 new ones from FCP Euro, and they will be here Saturday.

I am thinking it's the turbo (boost) actuators to be very honest, from what I have read and what my investigation has led me to believe thus far.

Car has :

- AFE Momentum GT CAI Box
- MMP 1.75" inlets
- MMP 2" outlets
- ARM 5" stepped FMIC
- MMP 3" SS downpipes

Any advice is welcome.....

[Sgop335]

163k original turbos...

Go ahead replace the boost solenoids but more than likely its time for new turbos!


Im getting 30ff on my 535i. they have about 110k mi, still boosting 15psi but slow spool. I played with the boost solenoids circuiting to "fix" the 30ff but my turbos are on borrowed time.

30ff: https://datazap.me/u/sgop335/535i-30...&data=3-4-5-21
after: https://datazap.me/u/sgop335/rear-wg...&data=3-4-5-21

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

163k original turbos...

Go ahead replace the boost solenoids but more than likely its time for new turbos!


Im getting 30ff on my 535i. they have about 110k mi, still boosting 15psi but slow spool. I played with the boost solenoids circuiting to "fix" the 30ff but my turbos are on borrowed time.

30ff: https://datazap.me/u/sgop335/535i-30...;data=3-4-5-21
after: https://datazap.me/u/sgop335/rear-wg...;data=3-4-5-21

Possibly need new turbos. Idk. I haven't tuned the car until recently. I won't be getting new OEM. Have you seen the price of them on FCP lately ? $2400 for both and that doesn't include the install hardware.

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Possibly need new turbos. Idk. I haven't tuned the car until recently. I won't be getting new OEM. Have you seen the price of them on FCP lately ? $2400 for both and that doesn't include the install hardware.

well unless you look at buying from fcp as an investment (with their lifetime and all), there are Mitsubishi options for about 600 a pc.
I was / am considering the Vargas upgraded (wastegates) oems, but not much reviews to read. Wastegates are the primary failure.
Are you sure your outlets are secure etc.?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

well unless you look at buying from fcp as an investment (with their lifetime and all), there are Mitsubishi options for about 600 a pc.
I was / am considering the Vargas upgraded (wastegates) oems, but not much reviews to read. Wastegates are the primary failure.
Are you sure your outlets are secure etc.?

If I buy turbos, they will be Rob Beck 1's with the SS wastegate.

Can get them for $1750 or so plus the install kit for about $175.00. They are OEM fitment with better than OEM internals. RB was one of the original guys to rework turbos on the N54 platform 12 years ago and they are still in business.

I'll check my outlets & inlets again this weekend. I made 7psi boost this afternoon. It's gotta be failing boost solenoids.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If I buy turbos, they will be Rob Beck 1's with the SS wastegate.

Can get them for $1750 or so plus the install kit for about $175.00. They are OEM fitment with better than OEM internals. RB was one of the original guys to rework turbos on the N54 platform 12 years ago and they are still in business.

I'll check my outlets & inlets again this weekend. I made 7psi boost this afternoon. It's gotta be failing boost solenoids.

+1 on this...I have 93k and I had to replace my boost solenoids for something similar...

[KruBruder]

I have the same problem.
I just replaced the engine.
Installed new Vargas Stage 1 turbos. Wastegates are new. Stock hot side charge pipe.
Silicone pipe to and from 7" FMIC
Aluminum cold side charge pipe w/ Tial bov.
New silicone vacuum lines.
Tested all vacuum lines. 25 inHG to solenoids
Bypassed my new boost solenoids to rule them out.
Actuators are closed at 5 inHg
I'm only getting about 3# boost before I get the light under WOT.
The 30ff happens only during a long pull and happens with or without any tune.
I guess the next step is smoke test. I have DCI's that I guess could be restricting flow in. They're those Spectre filters you get at any auto parts store( because they're pretty and blue and match my bov and vac lines and I could just grab em and go)
I don't have catless DP's because I have an E93 and don't want the fumes to offend passengers. My stock exhaust doesn't sound so stock after the swap either. I'm wondering if there's a restriction there that would cause the 30ff.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by KruBruder

I have the same problem.
I just replaced the engine.
Installed new Vargas Stage 1 turbos. Wastegates are new. Stock hot side charge pipe.
Silicone pipe to and from 7" FMIC
Aluminum cold side charge pipe w/ Tial bov.
New silicone vacuum lines.
Tested all vacuum lines. 25 inHG to solenoids
Bypassed my new boost solenoids to rule them out.
Actuators are closed at 5 inHg
I'm only getting about 3# boost before I get the light under WOT.
The 30ff happens only during a long pull and happens with or without any tune.
I guess the next step is smoke test. I have DCI's that I guess could be restricting flow in. They're those Spectre filters you get at any auto parts store( because they're pretty and blue and match my bov and vac lines and I could just grab em and go)
I don't have catless DP's because I have an E93 and don't want the fumes to offend passengers. My stock exhaust doesn't sound so stock after the swap either. I'm wondering if there's a restriction there that would cause the 30ff.

Do a smoke test. I bought a really good one off Amazon. I found my leak.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Do a smoke test. I bought a really good one off Amazon. I found my leak.

Where is the leak?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by feuer

Where is the leak?

My leak was the outlet on the front turbo. I have since replaced the outlets with VRSF aluminum 2" outlets. No 30ff codes for me !

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by KruBruder

I have the same problem.
I just replaced the engine.
Installed new Vargas Stage 1 turbos. Wastegates are new. Stock hot side charge pipe.
Silicone pipe to and from 7" FMIC
Aluminum cold side charge pipe w/ Tial bov.
New silicone vacuum lines.
Tested all vacuum lines. 25 inHG to solenoids
Bypassed my new boost solenoids to rule them out.
Actuators are closed at 5 inHg
I'm only getting about 3# boost before I get the light under WOT.
The 30ff happens only during a long pull and happens with or without any tune.
I guess the next step is smoke test. I have DCI's that I guess could be restricting flow in. They're those Spectre filters you get at any auto parts store( because they're pretty and blue and match my bov and vac lines and I could just grab em and go)
I don't have catless DP's because I have an E93 and don't want the fumes to offend passengers. My stock exhaust doesn't sound so stock after the swap either. I'm wondering if there's a restriction there that would cause the 30ff.

Catless DP shouldn't smoke really, as long as you have the secondary cats there. You can also reset the adaptations on the O2 sensors both pre and post. That will alleviate a lot of smoke.

[Rube]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

My leak was the outlet on the front turbo. I have since replaced the outlets with VRSF aluminum 2" outlets. No 30ff codes for me !

I plan to do a smoke test as well, Which smoke machine did you purchase from amazon?
Also how did you perform the test, did you cap off one of the inlets and introduce smoke through the other inlet?

Thanks!
Rube

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Rube

I plan to do a smoke test as well, Which smoke machine did you purchase from amazon?
Also how did you perform the test, did you cap off one of the inlets and introduce smoke through the other inlet?

Thanks!
Rube

STINGER Brand EVAP Smoke Machine Leak Tester with EVAP Adapter & TWO Smoke Tips. Tests EVAP, Intake, Exhaust, Vacuum Lines, Manifolds, etc - Stinger Brand is The BEST CHOICE in Smoke Testing!!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758ZRBT7..._oatgDbSHDGV2D

I took one blow off valve out. The fitting they give you isn't quite big enough, so I wrapped electrical tape around it to make it wider.

[Rube]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

STINGER Brand EVAP Smoke Machine Leak Tester with EVAP Adapter & TWO Smoke Tips. Tests EVAP, Intake, Exhaust, Vacuum Lines, Manifolds, etc - Stinger Brand is The BEST CHOICE in Smoke Testing!!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758ZRBT7..._oatgDbSHDGV2D

I took one blow off valve out. The fitting they give you isn't quite big enough, so I wrapped electrical tape around it to make it wider.

Cool, thank you. So you introduced the smoke right into the charge pipe ?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Rube

Cool, thank you. So you introduced the smoke right into the charge pipe ?

Correct