[ty367]

A have tried searching and attempting fixes but I am officially at a loss here.

Had the Battery Tested, meets or exceed standards.
Replaced Starter - No change
Tested Kl 30g relay - Good
+ Boost connection to engine V check, 12.4V. engine ground is good.
Disconnected IBS - no change.

At this point I can hear what I think is the fuel pump running, the Kl 30g relay going crazy. No crank, no sound coming from the recently installed starter (solenoid not operating)

Anybody have any other ideas?

Thanks.

[gbalthrop]

QUESTIONS:
1) Do you have a Multimeter and know how to read battery voltage at the Jumpstart terminals under the hood? If so, (a) what is Voltage read BEFORE attempting Starter activation, and (b) voltage reading AFTER Starter Activation essentially performs a "Load Test" on your Battery? HINT: if your battery had a "bad cell" or internal fault, starter load would cause an initial reading >12.0V to NOW be ~ 10.x Volts AFTER START was pressed.
2) Do you have a Scan Tool that can read Fault Codes in the CAS Module? If so, what Brand/Model of Scan Tool do you have and what codes are present?
3) I don't suppose there's any chance you have INPA running on a Windows Laptop, or can get the free download & install it? THAT would make Diagnostics a LOT easier.
4) Do you have MT (Manual Transmission) or AT?
5) If AT, does at least one of your brake lights light when you press Brake Pedal?
6) If AT, does you Gear Selector light on console, as well as Instrument Cluster indicate P when in Park, or N when in Neutral (Ignition On, Foot on Brake to shift out of Park)?
7) Is there ANY click at all from Starter Solenoid when START pressed with Foot on Clutch/Brake Pedal? Get a helper and listen with head at rear of intake manifold with hood open as START pressed.
8) You say KL30G Relay "going crazy": (a) what are you referring to as terminal 30G Relay? (b) WHEN in the process of opening the door, entering the vehicle, inserting the Remote Key in Insert Compartment (if NOT Comfort Access), turning Ignition ON (press START WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch), then pressing START while pressing Brake/Clutch (to activate Starter) does KL30G relay "go crazy", WHAT do you hear, and WHERE is the sound coming from?
9) Have you checked BOTH CAS Module Power Supply fuses: F36 (40A), and F55 (5A)?
10) What service/maintenance was done on your vehicle just before the "No-crank" occurrence? Have you recently had the Blower Motor Harness recall performed on that vehicle?
11) Any other vehicle performance issues BEFORE "No-crank" or NOW that you have "No-crank", particularly anything related to the Central Locking System or anything else related to the CAS Module?

Here is the TIS wiring diagram for the CAS Module on your vehicle, showing how it activates the Starter (M6510a), and also activates the Terminal 30G relay (IO1068) and Terminal 15 Ignition Relay (IO1069):
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/uXuCNh9

Here is Installation Location of KL30G (upper right of JB Fuse Panel), so if you are referring to some other relay, please describe its location:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...30g/1VnYuo3ZrW
KL30G should be activated when Ignition is activated (START button pressed), and has NOTHING to do with CAS activation of KL50 or Terminal 50, which activates Starter Solenoid.

With answers to those questions, someone can suggest "next steps".

George

[macb]

gbalthrop That is a great answer - I'm hoping some of those idea will help me troubleshooting a similar problem with No Crank...after a Code21 (computer) reset.

[fox1486]

Originally Posted by macb

gbalthrop That is a great answer - I'm hoping some of those idea will help me troubleshooting a similar problem with No Crank...after a Code21 (computer) reset.

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