[moderat0r]

hi,
while replacing rear caliper I noticed this, it seems the canadian salt rust got these nuts pretty good.


I am wondering how to handle this situation, I am planning to keep the car as it works fine.

I am thinking to get new nuts and replace them, but my question is how to remove the Rusted nut,

I saw online some people used induction heater to burn the rust out and then put new nut, you think its worth a shot?




My priority is to do the work and not get the car stuck waiting on some part in case rusty nut doesnt come out and break the axle? how can I make sure of that and what to order beforehand?

thanks

[Dirtleg]

I have the same issue. Was like that when I got the car. Bought new nuts and axles but haven't had time to address it. Thinking it'll be no fun when the time comes.

I was planning on using a die grinder to remove all the rust and then weld a nut to what's left of the existing nut. Plus the heat from welding should help free it up.

You may have a different plan.

Curious to see what you do on this.

Good luck.

[335i54n]

I would just buy a new/used hub

[Andystobbs]

I'd burn it out, new nut, shaft and wheel bearing

[Brian86]

If ever there was an excuses for having an oxy-torch in the garage....

The "Can't be stuck if it's liquid" meme really applies to that one.

[jsunma]

Some of these suggestions may work so far as getting the nut off the axle shaft, but then you're ultimately likely to end up with an axle shaft that is screwed up and/or needing to be replaced ultimately due to mileage.

Depending on how many miles are on your car...and specifically the axles...I'd suggest new hubs (as has been said) and new axles. You're already going to need new wheel bearings as those are shot no matter what. The axles are not that expensive, and if you're intending to keep the car for a while $200 each for the axles and associated CV joints is not unreasonable.

Rust sucks.

[e90yyc]

What Canadian village are you from? That looks brutal!

[Efthreeoh]

Leave it alone until the axle needs replacement or the bearing goes bad.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Leave it alone until the axle needs replacement or the bearing goes bad.

Agreed. Either of which could be an unbelievable amount of time away.

Same is happening on our F15 x5. The most annoying part is the staining the rust leaves on the wheel and the pitting it does the wheel cap. Yuck.

[Brian86]

One would think BMW could have popped some caps over the rear axle nuts.

I've removed the front wheel bearing dust caps on 30 year old BMWs and the nut behind it looked like it was hermetically sealed in a time capsule, while the rest of the car has fist sized holes where rocker panels used to be.

------------ second thought

Not unlike the excessive interference fit in the axle/hub splines that has been there for 40+ years. I guess anti-seize is at a real premium in Bavaria.

oK, done ranting...

X3 from above. Don't touch that unless you absolutely have to. Buying an entire spindle with half shaft assembly from a salvage yard is about the only fix.

[e90yyc]

x4.

Don’t touch unless you absolutely need to. Absolute make-work project and an un-fun one at that.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by e90yyc

x4.

Don’t touch unless you absolutely need to. Absolute make-work project and an un-fun one at that.

That's literally a cut-and-replace job. Unbolt all the links from the hub, pull the brake off, unplug the speed sensor, unbolt the axle from the diff, and pull it out from the car. New stuff goes in. That's RIP rusted-in-place.

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

That's literally a cut-and-replace job. Unbolt all the links from the hub, pull the brake off, unplug the speed sensor, unbolt the axle from the diff, and pull it out from the car. New stuff goes in. That's RIP rusted-in-place.

Yup, that's what I was suggesting. I guess I should have added "only do it when something's actually broken/worn out".

Nevertheless, "unbolting all the links from the hub" might still be a challenge, depending on the rust...and then of course he might as well go ahead and replace (will probably NEED to replace) trailing arms and control arms and all of those bushings. Fortunately FCP sells a whole kit of all of that stuff together (the bearings, hubs and axles not included). Definitely better to just leave it all alone until OP is ready to do a rear-suspension refresh.

(oh, wait, Canada...Well, one could probably piece together something similar from Rock Auto - which seems to be do better by Canadians)

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by jsunma

Yup, that's what I was suggesting. I guess I should have added "only do it when something's actually broken/worn out".

Nevertheless, "unbolting all the links from the hub" might still be a challenge, depending on the rust...and then of course he might as well go ahead and replace (will probably NEED to replace) trailing arms and control arms and all of those bushings. Fortunately FCP sells a whole kit of all of that stuff together (the bearings, hubs and axles not included). Definitely better to just leave it all alone until OP is ready to do a rear-suspension refresh.

(oh, wait, Canada...Well, one could probably piece together something similar from Rock Auto - which seems to be do better by Canadians)

Yup, understood. Even with the nut totally gone there is no way ever that joint is going to separate; it's rusted in place.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Yup, understood. Even with the nut totally gone there is no way ever that joint is going to separate; it's rusted in place.

Exactly.
Trying to replace this nut will lead to the entire rear job as when you start using heat, cutting, brute force, you damage whatever else is stuck onto the part you are trying to muscle out.

Just wait till you need to do it.
For now, just spray some rust inhibitor on it and check on it during your tire changeovers.

[moderat0r]

thank you for the tip, i will not touch it unless it becomes critical.

I found this video on youtube 1 minute long , not sure if it will work or what could go wrong with this method

what do you think?

or this second video also 1 min long

Third method with induction heater

[Greyfox]

Another option is a Dremel Tool with cut-off wheels and an extension. Had to use that combo when removing the top nuts on a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder front struts.

[moderat0r]

Originally Posted by Greyfox

Another option is a Dremel Tool with cut-off wheels and an extension. Had to use that combo when removing the top nuts on a 2005 Nissan Pathfinder front struts.

which extension on dremel?

[Greyfox]

Originally Posted by moderat0r

which extension on dremel?

One like this....

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Attach...0000302Y8?th=1

But you would have to get the model that corresponds to the version of Dremel Tool you have.

[jsunma]

Originally Posted by moderat0r

thank you for the tip, i will not touch it unless it becomes critical.

I found this video on youtube 1 minute long , not sure if it will work or what could go wrong with this method

what do you think?

Third method with induction heater

I have to admit that those induction things are really fascinating to me...as I live in the land of rust and am always confronted with one frozen part or another. The notion that they can help you remove a bolt without destroying it is intriguing.

[moderat0r]

Originally Posted by jsunma

I have to admit that those induction things are really fascinating to me...as I live in the land of rust and am always confronted with one frozen part or another. The notion that they can help you remove a bolt without destroying it is intriguing.

yeah new tech

[moderat0r]

Originally Posted by Greyfox

One like this....

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Attach...0000302Y8?th=1

But you would have to get the model that corresponds to the version of Dremel Tool you have.

that seems small, will that enough power to grind that rusty nut