[MrSmileyDC]

Originally Posted by tylerdurdon

Question guys:

I'm going to need to make this repair on my car, but really do not want to touch the intake manifold. I was doing more researching (wanted to know the tightening order of the manifold bolts at least but also wanted to see if there were other write-ups on it), when I found this guide detailing the entire process also, but much more simply.

I really like the fact that it appears to be so simple (without touching the manifold), but I'm wondering if maybe it's too good to be true. Can anyone comment on whether the procedure listed above can be performed the same way on an '07 335i 6MT? I have a universal joint and will buy a super long extension like the one pictured if it will work (picture from step 5).

You must remove the intake manifold to some degree. The pictures in your link are of the n52 in which case you would not. I basically removed the manifold nuts and disconnected the charge pipe. This gives you enough room the pull the manifold up an inch or so. Also if you get one of those racket reverse e torx wrenches you can avoid taking off one of the coolant lines near the front if the filter housing. 6mt is a pain in that you must remove the intercooler to reach the drain plug for the coolant.

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by tylerdurdon

Question guys:

I'm going to need to make this repair on my car, but really do not want to touch the intake manifold. I was doing more researching (wanted to know the tightening order of the manifold bolts at least but also wanted to see if there were other write-ups on it), when I found this guide detailing the entire process also, but much more simply.

I really like the fact that it appears to be so simple (without touching the manifold), but I'm wondering if maybe it's too good to be true. Can anyone comment on whether the procedure listed above can be performed the same way on an '07 335i 6MT? I have a universal joint and will buy a super long extension like the one pictured if it will work (picture from step 5).

I believe the picture shows the process on an N52. Take a look at that bolt on your N54 - I doubt you would agree that it is possible to get a socket *and* a swivel *and* an extension into that tight spot. But if you try their method and it works, post back here so I can update.

[MrSmileyDC]

Originally Posted by NGEE

I believe the picture shows the process on an N52. Take a look at that bolt on your N54 - I doubt you would agree that it is possible to get a socket *and* a swivel *and* an extension into that tight spot. But if you try their method and it works, post back here so I can update.

+1

[najin23]

Great diy.
Finished the job over the weekend. Prob, took about 4hrs. My evil elec jxn box was already loose prob from that HPFP recall. Didn't remove any coolant hose esp for the lower bolt. I just used the 8mm 12 point ratcheting wrench, and it worked perfectly
Everything else went fine. Didn't drain coolant, but did the bleeding. Didn't bother doing any intake valve clean at the moment, just got tired. Got one of the three bolt or thread for the thermostat housing stipped. That bolt just kept turning and turning, so no torque could be set. Nothing's leaking or anything. Will try with a new bolt. If that doesn't work, then I may have to look for a used OFH if the thread on the OFH was stripped.

Next is cylinder head cover gasket.

[parabmw]

do you need to replace the ofgh bolts?
i believe you need to replace aluminum bolts.

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by parabmw

do you need to replace the ofgh bolts?
i believe you need to replace aluminum bolts.

Good point - aluminum bolts are generally one-time stretch torque. I updated the DIY.

[007_e350]

Hey guys, I cant seem to put this O ring back on (subject), its has to go ontop the plastic ring to sandwich between hose and OFH hose-mount ?? damn man shouldn't be this hard, done verything else stuck on this stupid hose

[2fast4]

So I was doing this job and I took 2 10mm bolts off the hose going from bottom(guess thermostat housing) to the top next to OFH. It was a little tight so I wiggled it and pulled it. Well....the plastic part that sticks out that the o-ring seats on broke off!!!!!!! SOB!!!

So now the seating area is broke in jagged way. So if I put a new o-ring, I'm afraid it will not seat well and won't seal good.

I tell you this job is PIT!!!! If you do this work on n54 engine, get ready to cuss like a WWI trench soldier!!!!!!

I guess I need to order the whole hose $hit online and be down all that time...

BMW engineers need to be lined up against the wall and shot in the head....ALL OF THEM!!!!!

[2fast4]

There are DIY for n52/n54 sites on e90post. That $hit shouldn't mix together.
I bought a set of GearWrench e-torx ratching wrench from Amazon for like $70. Because I read on this DIY. When I got it and started the work on it, it won't work. Have to take off the intake manifold, upper coolant hose, etc. And with them off, you don't need this tool anymore. Although I decided to take off the whole manifold off, there is no other way to get to the 1 bolt under the manifold. And the 1 bolt by the coolant hose fitting. Period!!!!
Thus, my breaking off the freaking hose inside the housing...

I for one, would like to see separation of e90 into 325, 328, 335, 535, z4, m3, etc. Although body style is "similar" there is not much in common, other than misleading to more confusion and wasted money, time, pain, and all of the above. Usually the last is the result....

We all need to be independent of other model cars....ARE WE TOGETHER ON THIS??????

[2fast4]

We all need to be independent of other model cars....ARE WE TOGETHER ON THIS??????

[2fast4]

So once you take off the upper coolant line fitting, it's most likely that the rubber o-ring will be old and stretched. I at first tried to seat it back inside the wall of housing n part of it just slips outside all the time. Tried bolting it back thinking this will put it back inside. But it just sticks out like a tongue on the underside and gets crushed on the flange.

But alas, it won't be needed. I need a whole pipe since the fragile plastic part that the o-ring seats is broken in 1/2.
O-ring might've stretched when I wiggled the hose and pulled on it.

[2fast4]

My advice is, after getting the bolts out, "twist" the hose flange side to side many times to break it lose. And twist it while pulling it out "straight" fashion. My bad was to use flat-tip screw driver to wedge it and pried on one side way too angled...I did not know that there was "cork" like material still stuck inside that broke off with too much angle. The flange is not all of it. The cork(where I refer to as plastic) sticks out where the o-ring seats on.

[2fast4]

My local stealership quoted me $56 + tax for this hose(comes with o-ring). Can't buy the flange separate(it would my job a lot easier if not taking off the whole hose).

Online stores sell them for like $36 + s/h = around $40.

[2fast4]

Part no# 11537541992 thermostat outlet upper hose.

[2fast4]

The part number is actually printed on the hose. In the bunch of blue letters.
I almost got the wrong p/n from realoem.com. Almost like it buy not quite...

Speaking of hoses, it's coming soon that I need to replace all the cooling hoses. They are getting tired and not firm, esp, where motor oil got on it and further weakening the spots. Wish there is Group Buy or discount for all the coolant hoses. It'll be around $1k if bought one at a time. Plus you doing all the work...

[2fast4]

Originally Posted by 2fast4

My local stealership quoted me $56 + tax for this hose(comes with o-ring). Can't buy the flange separate(it would my job a lot easier if not taking off the whole hose).

Online stores sell them for like $36 + s/h = around $40.

I take it back. S/h = $14. Almost $50. I'm going to the $tealership.

[MrSmileyDC]

Originally Posted by 2fast4

There are DIY for n52/n54 sites on e90post. That $hit shouldn't mix together.
I bought a set of GearWrench e-torx ratching wrench from Amazon for like $70. Because I read on this DIY. When I got it and started the work on it, it won't work. Have to take off the intake manifold, upper coolant hose, etc. And with them off, you don't need this tool anymore. Although I decided to take off the whole manifold off, there is no other way to get to the 1 bolt under the manifold. And the 1 bolt by the coolant hose fitting. Period!!!!
Thus, my breaking off the freaking hose inside the housing...

I for one, would like to see separation of e90 into 325, 328, 335, 535, z4, m3, etc. Although body style is "similar" there is not much in common, other than misleading to more confusion and wasted money, time, pain, and all of the above. Usually the last is the result....

We all need to be independent of other model cars....ARE WE TOGETHER ON THIS??????

Remove the bolt near the coolant line last. Loosen the bolt with a ratchet wrench as you pull the ofh away from the engine block.

[jsmclaughlin2]

First off, props to the OP for the write up. But now I am in the same boat as the last couple posters, I too broke my Coolant hose Flange piece... might as well be made of styrofoam because whatever material it's made of is garbage.

Does anyone know the best way to replace this hose (coolant outlet hose)? I would rather not have to take the entire water pump/thermostat off if I don't need.....

[taz2ko0]

This was not that bad. Took me 3 hrs. The bolt on the bottom of the OFH was pain but got with a 5/16th wrench. I didn't have to take the coolant hose off. I also didn't drain the coolant. I placed a lot of rags and one of those yellow absorbent rags over the alternator and removed the coolant from the OFH. Caught all the coolant, loosen the intake manifold, and removed all three bolts. Cleaned and replaced gasket. All is good. Added some coolant and water plus did the bleeding process. No leaks!@! Great write up!!!

[seccsc]

Be careful with the flanged coolant hose. I first pinched an oring and then the plastic flange broke in to pieces.

[deeLow]

Originally Posted by seccsc

Be careful with the flanged coolant hose. I first pinched an oring and then the plastic flange broke in to pieces.

Exact thing happened to me. Yours is broken much more though, mine only about 1/4 around.

Oring fit was very good, so I had to wiggle it out. Once out, the plastic flange broke on the end just like yours. O ring is fine and will keep an eye on it for the first couple hundred to see how it fares. Even the slightest leak and I'll replace immediately.

Waiting on my girl to get back with some distiller water before I finish it up

[seccsc]

This hose sucks to replace due to connecting on back end of the Thermostat. I think the lesson learned is to push the flange and then tight the fasteners. If you use the fasteners to push in the flange, I believe that will cause this issue. The fasteners set on the upper part of the plastic flange and don't help with uniform alignment while tightening. Cheers!