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      01-15-2017, 09:43 PM   #1
e90dum
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3 stage intake manifold swap car can't idle

Hey, i did a 3 stage intake manifold swap on my 328i and it wont idle. If i pat the gas itll sputter for a second or so until it gives up. Im running a bpc tune, and I'm waiting on it to load the stock tune but what should i check for when that isn't it?
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      01-15-2017, 09:46 PM   #2
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did you plug the hose in thats located next to the throttle body.
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      01-15-2017, 09:52 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by e90dum View Post
Hey, i did a 3 stage intake manifold swap on my 328i and it wont idle. If i pat the gas itll sputter for a second or so until it gives up. Im running a bpc tune, and I'm waiting on it to load the stock tune but what should i check for when that isn't it?
Stock tune doesnt work. Which one? Ill double check everything with the pelicon parts guide
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      01-15-2017, 09:59 PM   #4
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Okay, so if i disconnect my maf it idles. Any ideas? -_-
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      01-15-2017, 10:10 PM   #5
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Pull the codes and clean the MAF.
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      01-15-2017, 10:21 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by TheAxiom View Post
Pull the codes and clean the MAF.
Cleaned the maf (what i could do) and no change. Im gonna go drive 15 miles and get some codes
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      01-15-2017, 10:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90dum View Post
Cleaned the maf (what i could do) and no change. Im gonna go drive 15 miles and get some codes
Re-check everything. It's possible you could have a vacuum leak.

Did you connect all hoses? Did you connect your throttle body connections?
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      01-15-2017, 10:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by e90dum View Post
Cleaned the maf (what i could do) and no change. Im gonna go drive 15 miles and get some codes
Re-check everything. It's possible you could have a vacuum leak.

Did you connect all hoses? Did you connect your throttle body connections?
+1. Make sure your throttle body connector is seated all the way.
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      01-15-2017, 10:45 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by W37V View Post
Re-check everything. It's possible you could have a vacuum leak.

Did you connect all hoses? Did you connect your throttle body connections?
Right now im convinced its the maf. Idk how that broke. Im driving around with it unplugged with no problems. Unrelated, but now the car now wont apply any gas while i press the brake. In gear or not. Ugh.....
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      01-15-2017, 10:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90dum View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by W37V View Post
Re-check everything. It's possible you could have a vacuum leak.

Did you connect all hoses? Did you connect your throttle body connections?
Right now im convinced its the maf. Idk how that broke. Im driving around with it unplugged with no problems. Unrelated, but now the car now wont apply any gas while i press the brake. In gear or not. Ugh.....
Did you pull the codes? If something's unplugged that will pinpoint the issue.

Did you actually remove the maf out of the air box when you did the swap? There shouldn't have been a need to...

What your describing really does sound like your throttle body connector is unplugged or not seated all the way(sometimes you have to push them on pretty hard).
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      01-15-2017, 10:56 PM   #11
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I didn’t swap the airbox, put the stock one back in. Codes are p116e and p0113. The car does not work with the maf plugged in so assume it isnt plugged in until further notice
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      01-15-2017, 11:03 PM   #12
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I didn’t swap the airbox, put the stock one back in. Codes are p116e and p0113. The car does not work with the maf plugged in so assume it isnt plugged in until further notice
I get you put the stock air box in, my question is when you pulled the airbox out for the swap, did you actually remove the maf from the airbox.
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      01-15-2017, 11:13 PM   #13
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Well those 2 codes are definitely maf related. It's yet odd that it took a dump when you did the swap. You didn't pinch any wires at the junction box under the manifold did you?
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      01-15-2017, 11:15 PM   #14
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Dumb question but is it possible to force the connector upside down? Or force a pin to come loose and not connect? Or the cable got cut and shorted, grounded, or opened during the installation?
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      01-15-2017, 11:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Dumb question but is it possible to force the connector upside down? Or force a pin to come loose and not connect? Or the cable got cut and shorted, grounded, or opened during the installation?
I guess you could technically put it in upside down, you'd have to really force it. The clip connector kinda clues you in that it's going in right though.

He could check the pins on the maf. The Maf harness goes to a junction box that he would have to take off the manifold, its extremely possible it got pinched or linked in between something.
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      01-15-2017, 11:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrickland View Post
I guess you could technically put it in upside down, you'd have to really force it. The clip connector kinda clues you in that it's going in right though.

He could check the pins on the maf. The Maf harness goes to a junction box that he would have to take off the manifold, its extremely possible it got pinched or linked in between something.
Yeah, I know it's keyed but I've not tried to force it so not sure if it's even physically possible but if it's old and the plastic's brittle, you're tired, not paying attention, etc. maybe it's possible. Seems like a huge stretch though. Mucking up the wires or pinching them under something else near the junction box or at it seems more likely.

It does sound like the DME can read the MAF but is getting unusable info so maybe the heater isn't connected somehow, three pins right? Just thinking out loud.
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      01-15-2017, 11:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpete View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrickland View Post
I guess you could technically put it in upside down, you'd have to really force it. The clip connector kinda clues you in that it's going in right though.

He could check the pins on the maf. The Maf harness goes to a junction box that he would have to take off the manifold, its extremely possible it got pinched or linked in between something.
Yeah, I know it's keyed but I've not tried to force it so not sure if it's even physically possible but if it's old and the plastic's brittle, you're tired, not paying attention, etc. maybe it's possible. Seems like a huge stretch though. Mucking up the wires or pinching them under something else near the junction box or at it seems more likely.

It does sound like the DME can read the MAF but is getting unusable info so maybe the heater isn't connected somehow, three pins right? Just thinking out loud.
Right. His 2nd code is AIT sensor circuit high. Most circuit high codes or from faulty wiring altering resistance.

OP take your airbox off & trace the maf wire, while your at it, double check everything connected to that junction box. You may save yourself $200 on a maf spending an extra 20min digging in there.
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      01-15-2017, 11:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrickland View Post
Right. His 2nd code is AIT sensor circuit high. Most circuit high codes or from faulty wiring altering resistance.

OP take your airbox off & trace the maf wire, while your at it, double check everything connected to that junction box. You may save yourself $200 on a maf spending an extra 20min digging in there.
Okay, give me a minute on the airbox. I'm not going to check the other wires until tomorrow though I'm exhausted and i also know i probably did it right
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      01-15-2017, 11:38 PM   #19
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The maf wire goes to the junction box y'all are talking about so im not sure if it would be possible to pinch it.

I am also now freeking at the possibility of a $200 part. Maybe it is a cable unplugged... because when i try to apply gas while there is any brake nothing happens.
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      01-15-2017, 11:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90dum View Post
The maf wire goes to the junction box y'all are talking about so im not sure if it would be possible to pinch it.

I am also now freeking at the possibility of a $200 part. Maybe it is a cable unplugged... because when i try to apply gas while there is any brake nothing happens.
That why I said trace all the cable from that junction box. Just about every cable you would have had to unplug for the install leads there.

Mafs usually gives symptoms their dying, they don't normally go from 100% to 0%. Also make sure everything intake wise(airbox, throttle body, manifold) are seated right. Finally check the crankcase hose to the valve cover to intake manifold.
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      01-16-2017, 12:04 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstrickland View Post
That why I said trace all the cable from that junction box. Just about every cable you would have had to unplug for the install leads there.

Mafs usually gives symptoms their dying, they don't normally go from 100% to 0%. Also make sure everything intake wise(airbox, throttle body, manifold) are seated right. Finally check the crankcase hose to the valve cover to intake manifold.
Ugh... so sorry to waste everyone's time but i see a wire unplugged from the throttle body. Will check back in a minute
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      01-16-2017, 12:23 AM   #22
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by dstrickland View Post
That why I said trace all the cable from that junction box. Just about every cable you would have had to unplug for the install leads there.

Mafs usually gives symptoms their dying, they don't normally go from 100% to 0%. Also make sure everything intake wise(airbox, throttle body, manifold) are seated right. Finally check the crankcase hose to the valve cover to intake manifold.
Ugh... so sorry to waste everyone's time but i see a wire unplugged from the throttle body. Will check back in a minute
Haha let us know, your symptoms sounded like a throttle body ordeal.
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