[Bmwneedsworkagain]

For the bleed procedure in INPA how much brake fluid does it use? The dealer is saying I need 2 12oz bottles but I think that is for the standard flush? Anybody know how many bottles they used doing the power bleed?

[AndyW]

Originally Posted by skydiver1921

For the bleed procedure in INPA how much brake fluid does it use? The dealer is saying I need 2 12oz bottles but I think that is for the standard flush? Anybody know how many bottles they used doing the power bleed?

At least one 500ml bottle to do all four. I'd get two.

[juld0zer]

I always fill the bleeder with at least 2L fluid.
I flush 250mL per caliper.
The INPA procedure and ISTA procedure doesn't actually use much but it depends if you have an assistant or not, and how long it takes to follow the steps. It can be done with less than a litre if you are familiar with the procedure and you have your working area all set up. eg. car on hoist, raised high enough to crawl underneath but low enough so you can do full strokes of the brake pedal using your foot.

Where it costs additional fluid is if you don't do something as directed, quickly enough. So it will make you repeat it.

[Bmwneedsworkagain]

I was able to complete the diy guide for replacing the abs pump motor for the 5DF0/5DF1 and got rid of my fault codes. However, when I ran the DSC adjustment procedure the car was on jack stands. Afterwards, when I shifted the car into drive, the rear left wheel moved maybe half a turn, the traction control light came on, and then no power delivery to the rear left wheel.

Driving the car now there is no power going to the back left wheel. Only the back right wheel is getting any power. Anyone have any idea what this is?

There are no fault codes present and there are no lights on in the dash. Somehow I think when I ran the DSC adjustment and the car was on jacks, not on level ground, it maybe messed up the system to stop power delivery to the rear wheel. Or even worse a problem with the caliper or rear differential?

[Miller335]

Originally Posted by skydiver1921

I was able to complete the diy guide for replacing the abs pump motor for the 5DF0/5DF1 and got rid of my fault codes. However, when I ran the DSC adjustment procedure the car was on jack stands. Afterwards, when I shifted the car into drive, the rear left wheel moved maybe half a turn, the traction control light came on, and then no power delivery to the rear left wheel.

Driving the car now there is no power going to the back left wheel. Only the back right wheel is getting any power. Anyone have any idea what this is?

There are no fault codes present and there are no lights on in the dash. Somehow I think when I ran the DSC adjustment and the car was on jacks, not on level ground, it maybe messed up the system to stop power delivery to the rear wheel. Or even worse a problem with the caliper or rear differential?

Skydiver.
It's because these cars have open differentials from the factory.
If it's on jack stands the diff will only send power to one wheel.
Put it in neutral and turn one of the rear wheels by hand, the other side will spin the opposite direction no?

[Miller335]

Where did you guys get those caps?
Or if you follow the instructions that came with the part the OP posted and keep brake pedal pushed in >60mm you dont need the caps?

[Bmwneedsworkagain]

Originally Posted by Miller335

Where did you guys get those caps?
Or if you follow the instructions that came with the part the OP posted and keep brake pedal pushed in >60mm you dont need the caps?

I got it from home depot, see link below. I just did it yesterday and it worked great, but with brake fluid coming out slowly it will make it slippery to put the caps on, so take your time. Also, I used 1 liter of brake fluid and I bled twice, first a regular brake bleed and then the DSC bleed using ISTA. The lights on the dash didn't go off until after I did the power bleed and ran the DSC adjustment procedure in ISTA. When I put the new pump on the 5DF0 and 5DF1 went away after bleed, but there were fault codes 5DD0 and 5DD2 which indicated DSC adjusmtent (valves). I clicked on that, calculate test plan, and then ran the adjustment and then all lights went off after the adjustment completed. Car needs to be parked on level ground according to the DSC Adjustment instructions in ISTA. I believe engine was running when I did the adjustment, but not when I did the bleed first.

Also, I ended up using a 2011 335i RWD pump on my 2008 328i and I kept my original module with no problems.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMa...1016/100095946

[Bmwneedsworkagain]

If anyone needs it, I have an ATE MK60E5 abs module from a 2011 335i RWD. This module will work on any post-LCI 09-12 RWD E9X, but it will need to be reprogrammed to your car. This is JUST THE MODULE, not the ABS Pump itself. I will send it to you for cheap.

The part number is: 3452 6789304-01

[junior ray]

Guys some help needed my 335d just has code 5df0 and 5df1,after reading the posts i am going to change the ABS pump my part number is 3451-677 8484-01 are the pumps interchangeable i read somewhere the lci one is better pump will this fit with my control module or am i stuck with the pre face pumps?Advice would be greatly appreciated.Also do i need inpa to bleed the system after changing it.Thanks

[Bmwneedsworkagain]

Originally Posted by junior ray

Guys some help needed my 335d just has code 5df0 and 5df1,after reading the posts i am going to change the ABS pump my part number is 3451-677 8484-01 are the pumps interchangeable i read somewhere the lci one is better pump will this fit with my control module or am i stuck with the pre face pumps?Advice would be greatly appreciated.Also do i need inpa to bleed the system after changing it.Thanks

I can’t guarantee it will work, but it did work for my 2008 328i RWD using a 2011 335i RWD pump. The AWD pump will not work with RWD. There is also a company in the UK that fixes your own pump and module, so you don’t need to buy a used one.

You need either INPA or ISTA+ to do the power bleed yourself, or take it to a shop and have them do it.

I also had to do recalibration because I had a fault code 5dd0 DSC: Hydraulic unit: calibration, DSC unit (valves). I just clicked on it in ISTA and ran the recalibration and it fixed itself.

[Miller335]

Anyone have a fix for the screws not bottoming out all the way when you go to install the lines back into the ABS pump?

I don't have the UNIT bolted in all the way yet, I've moved it around some but some of the lines will not screw down all the way?

Doesn't make sense to me.

[Knuppel]

Question:
Is it necessary to bleed the entire braking system before taking out the ABS pump? If i do this i will introduce a lot of air into the system, but i’m worried i will lose a lot of brake fluid in the engine bay otherwise.

And can i run inpa / ista bleeding procedure without turning the ignition on? So i don’t have to get in the car while it’s on jack stands?

[matamua]

Originally Posted by Miller335

Anyone have a fix for the screws not bottoming out all the way when you go to install the lines back into the ABS pump?

I don't have the UNIT bolted in all the way yet, I've moved it around some but some of the lines will not screw down all the way?

Doesn't make sense to me.

No. I did this job yesterday and the line holes all have different depths, but the line nuts all have the same number of threads. That is why they look like some are not all they way in—I checked before removal, that's how they look stock.

[matamua]

Originally Posted by Knuppel

Question:
Is it necessary to bleed the entire braking system before taking out the ABS pump? If i do this i will introduce a lot of air into the system, but i’m worried i will lose a lot of brake fluid in the engine bay otherwise.

And can i run inpa / ista bleeding procedure without turning the ignition on? So i don’t have to get in the car while it’s on jack stands?

Don't bleed it first.

If you put a rag down, it shouldn't leak too much brake fluid.

I used my Foxwell to bleed and the ignition was in the "on" position but the car hadn't been started. Dunno about inpa, but I'm assuming it's the same as the tool and kdcan cable both communicate through the OBDII the same way.

[Miller335]

Originally Posted by matamua

No. I did this job yesterday and the line holes all have different depths, but the line nuts all have the same number of threads. That is why they look like some are not all they way in—I checked before removal, that's how they look stock.

I remember them being all in further than they ended up after installation but I made sure the tubes were fully seated then tightened the nuts as far as they would go and I'm pleased to report I was successful in bleeding the system from the abs pump and I'm back in business.

Thanks for the reponse!

[wootang_clan]

Originally Posted by allotherareused

If you change only hydraulic part you don't need to recode anything. If model is same this is 2 or 4 screw to separate electronic bloc and put back your original.

If you change all, you need to code it, to write vin, probably to initialize all sensor, lateral, steering wheel, possibly to change brake sensors because can't reset it and this show your brake pads are on 255% ... to much trouble.

As per bleeding my favorite (easy) way is :
when you assemble before tighten all 6 tube start slowly pressing pedal until one by one don't have air anymore (2 man job in 5 min done). At this point you are 90% done.

As fluid is recommended to be changed on 2 years, and you need to do all of it ... well, now just change fluid

As you in first step have bleed completely hydro unit and in fluid replacement you have bleed everything else ... you are done.

You also can use options and software to activate one by one wheel and pump but if you do properly my easy way probably don't need it. Do it if you have, I did it with DIS, don't know how to activate pump with inpa (this is possible).

I'm getting the same errors on the dash and when I'm stopped at a light the brake slips for a fraction of a second and rolls forward. My assumption is that my pump or module is out. After reading through every post on this thread, I've decided to go with the Module Master route as I have another car.

My question is on the bleeding method above in red. After the module is replaced and I lightly tighten the 6 tubes, am I supposed to have someone get in the car with the car off and pump the brakes and watch for bubbles on each tube before tightening each bolt? Can someone clarify this process? I have bled the brakes before with the self bleeder on each wheel and I'm supposed to do that after I do the first bleeding step, correct? I just want to make sure I understand the entire bleeding procedure before I get started.

Thanks in advance.

[Knuppel]

So i replaced the 5E20 dsc pump with a revised one from ECU testing. Mine was beyond repair. Still an error though. No more 5E20, but now 5E24 - pressure sensor implausible.

Did the Tool32 ‘dsc abgleichen’ and fg-... stuff. Brake bleeding procedure twice (with INPA DSC pump functions). After that i had -1 bar dsc pressure with brake released, 80 bar when fully depressed. This weekend i did the brake bleeding again, but with my brother so i could see if there were any bubbles coming out. Not much, only at the beginning of the procedure, but after the procedure dsc pressure was 0 to 1 (sometimes -0), and 130 bar fully depressed. Still the 5E24 error and dsc/dtc not working.

What do you think, is this dsc unit faulty also? Or is there still air trapped in the brake system? Can anyone send me their brake pressure values in INPA? And is it normal for brake pressure to fluctuate a bit (within 1 bar) with pedal released? I’m in doubt as to what is normal.

[matamua]

Originally Posted by wootang_clan

I'm getting the same errors on the dash and when I'm stopped at a light the brake slips for a fraction of a second and rolls forward. My assumption is that my pump or module is out. After reading through every post on this thread, I've decided to go with the Module Master route as I have another car.

My question is on the bleeding method above in red. After the module is replaced and I lightly tighten the 6 tubes, am I supposed to have someone get in the car with the car off and pump the brakes and watch for bubbles on each tube before tightening each bolt? Can someone clarify this process? I have bled the brakes before with the self bleeder on each wheel and I'm supposed to do that after I do the first bleeding step, correct? I just want to make sure I understand the entire bleeding procedure before I get started.

Thanks in advance.

I didn't do it that way. I used a pressure bleeder. Still felt a bit spongy after, so I hooked up my foxwell and bled with the pressure bleeder attached via the protocol—need two people to do it. It worked great for me, but was probably overkill.

[Knuppel]

Anyone having a 5E24 error only, see this thread.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...2#post25179832

[MILLER335I]

Does anyone know how to get wire out of the metal elbow that keeps the loom in the engine bay?

[MILLER335I]

Originally Posted by MILLER335I

Does anyone know how to get wire out of the metal elbow that keeps the loom in the engine bay?

It's glued then covered with rubber, you have to cut it away carefully to save the wires.

[PocketRocket317]

I installed my ABS pump and module yesterday. It just returned from Modulemasters.
Must require recoding, before it displayed the ABS, brake, and DSC faults. Now it also shows airbag, and CEL. Wipers turned after on initial engine start, speedometer does not work, and turn signals do not cancel.
The iCarsoft shows lot of faults.
Is the dealer recoding my only option? Car is a 2007 335i convertible, 49,000 miles, original owner. Trifecta for 2 years.
Dealer has tried to scam me twice. Once when fuel pump threw a code, (3500.00 estimate) and refused to replace a flat tire with a stealer provided 1000.00 tire warranty. Car was 8 months old with 3,000 miles. Said nail is not covered.
Never been back. Even the “free oil changes” were not worth arguing that brake fluid does not need changing more frequently than engine oil.
If clearing the code for the fuel pump is 3500.00, recoding ABS might be 10,000.00. After I refused to authorize a 3500.00 “repair” they reduced to 1500.00. I cleared with the iCarsoft and drove off.
I know this dealers service department is an anomaly.
Really do not want to go back.