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Help with Adding MS-8 to L7 system. Adding a sub amp, etc.
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10-28-2013, 01:46 PM | #1 |
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Help with Adding MS-8 to L7 system. Adding a sub amp, etc.
Hello. I have searched about the topic but I can only find bits and pieces of information and I am having a hard time putting it together as I am not an expert of the matter.
I currently have a e90 with L7 and I am planning to integrate JBL MS-8, SWS-8xi 2ohms, 2-ch amp for SWS. I have ordered Technic's harness for L7 as well as some spacers for the sub. What I am trying to achieve is use the MS-8 for the OEM L7 while adding an amp just for the SWS-8xi in 2ohms. The goal is to slightly improve the OEM L7 sound with MS-8 while adding a kick via SWS-8. I guess it is similar to kaigoss69's config #1b: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394375 As for my background, I am somewhat adept doing mechanical work on the car, it is just that I have not worked extensively on the electrical parts of the car.. The most I did was to install a navigation HU on my wife's Tiguan for electrical stuff. So my questions are: 1. What other miscellaneous parts do I need? (ie. wires, harness, etc) Please pretend I am a complete newbie and kindly direct me to the types (gauges? power wires? fuse box?) of wires needed and etc. I am trying to do a quality install and if adding fuse breakers etc to the setup is needed for a long run, I would like to do it, please help. 2. Which 2-ch. amp is most cost efficient while providing the quality and the best bang of for the buck to drive the SWS-8xi's 2ohms, given my setup with MS-8? Recommendations? Most widely used and popular? 3. How do I wire these things? Specifically, the tapping the power (I am scared ) from the battery? Do I have to add fuse boxes, power connectors? How to wire the MS-8, 2-ch amp, and SWS-8 with Technic's harness? 4. If there are any guides or a link that I may have missed with pictures, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys for the help! |
10-28-2013, 01:51 PM | #2 |
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Take a look at this, should have plenty of information for you:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=641323 |
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10-28-2013, 01:57 PM | #3 |
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It's fairly simple you might want to read up on this a little more, mainly the stickies. You can either keep the stock amp connected and use the speaker level inputs on the ms8, or you can remove the stock amp, recode to hifi, and use the RCA inputs on the ms8. If you decide to recode to hifi I have a harness that will work for you.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=903918 To power the amp you should get a 4 or 8 gauge wiring kit, youll have alot of extra power wire but thats never a bad thing. You'll also need the connectors for the underseats subs and the power connectors for the battery. I think you can get both of these from technic, or if you search around you can find the part numbers and get them from the dealer. |
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10-28-2013, 02:48 PM | #4 | |
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10-28-2013, 03:26 PM | #5 |
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It doesn't make sense to add a ms-8 without recode
It doesn't make sense to add a ms-8 without recode and removing the stock l7 amp. If you want to keep the l7 amp I would just add an amp an upgraded speakers on top of it . Though I don't like the concept of using an amp to drive another amp.
Yes it is technicaly possible to do what your describing but its not what I would call a clean solution. |
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10-28-2013, 03:56 PM | #6 | |
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If you decide to do it that way, you basically have to cut Technics harness in half except for the power and ground wires. The wires coming out of the amp get wired to the ms8's speaker level inputs. The wires on the on the other half of the connector get wired to the aftermarket amp or the ms8's speaker level outputs depending on what you are using to power your speakers. If you recode you can cut the end off that plugs into the stock amp from technics harness, since you'll get the signal from the head unit using an RCA cable. You can also unpin the power and ground wires as you won't need them. Another more expensive option is a da2 |
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10-28-2013, 04:20 PM | #7 | |
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10-28-2013, 05:19 PM | #8 | |
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You can do it yourself if you've already done some coding. Use ncsexpert. Delete $677 from the VO add $676. Do this for both cas and frm or nfrm. Then recode 2urad, and your done. |
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10-28-2013, 05:39 PM | #9 |
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^^ This. Unless you have a radio that only communicates over MOST. Usually if you have the new gongs it will need to be done by the OPS system.
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10-28-2013, 05:41 PM | #10 |
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FYI note that coding a idrive and pro radio
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=stereo
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ghlight=stereo note that coding a idrive and pro radio are not the same . When you do the pro radio you are only dealing with the rad file . There are about three different files for the idrive as described in the articles above. |
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10-28-2013, 06:36 PM | #11 |
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Guys, the L7 amp is actually a very good signal source for the MS-8. First, the D/A conversion happens inside the L7 amp in the trunk, so there is no chance of induced noise between the head unit and the amp. Second, the signal coming from the amp is extremely strong with a low noise floor, which again means in the short run between the L7 amp and the MS-8, there is very little chance of induced noise. I used this set-up in the beginning and there was little to no hiss even with the HU volume cranked all the way. Some people have to use line drivers between their signal source and the processor, because the signal is too weak, which of course is not necessary in this case. The MS-8 was built to work with this type of signal. This is the easiest and cheapest way to integrate the MS-8 in this system. Disadvantage is turn-on/off pops caused by L7 amp. It can be annoying. You can eliminate one of the pops by adjusting the MS-8 delay, don't remember which one.
The alternative is recoding to HiFi to work with the balanced output of the head unit. In this case you will have to run RCA cables from the head unit to the trunk which can cause some noise to be picked up by the wiring on the long run to the trunk. Consider the costs of coding 2x, once now and once again before you sell the car, and the extra work to run the signal wire(s). If you have to pay for the coding and the work to run the RCA, it's easily $300-$400. Alternative #2 is to get a DA-2 from Mobridge to get rid of the L7 amp altogether, while still being able to do the D/A conversion in the trunk. The unit seems expensive (about $600), but consider the fact that you can resell it later on and the worst you can lose is probably $250. I think this is the better and more elegant option compared to recoding to HiFi.
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10-28-2013, 06:49 PM | #12 | |
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Originally, I was planning to use technic's harness to just add a pair of SWS-8xi's powered with Zapco 200.2 to my L7. I just happened to score on a MS-8 very cheap and contemplating whether to use the MS-8 or not (would like to if possible). If I were to go through the recoding the HU, running RCA cables from HU, etc.. I would rather resell the MS-8 and just go with my original plan. However, if I can use the MS-8 along with L7 amp and achieve even the minimal performance gain, I would like to keep it. Kaigoss69, can you provide some information on how to connect the wires for this setup? Which 2-ch amp do you recommend just to drive the underseat SWS-8xi's? I am trying to be cost effective while doing a quality install. Thank you for your input. |
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10-28-2013, 07:00 PM | #13 | |||
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- 16-gauge crimp connectors - In-line fuse holder with 40 or 50 amp fuse - 8-gauge positive power wire, about 4-5 feet - Ring terminal for connection to positive battery post or - proprietary plug that connects to distribution block on top of battery (Technic supplies this along with correct length wire) - 8-gauge ground wire, about 4-5 feet - Ring terminal to connect to OEM battery grounding point - 16-gauge speaker wire (spool of 25 feet should be more than enough) Quote:
I would go with the 2-channel version because you will get some midbass separation which helps with imaging. Quote:
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10-28-2013, 07:11 PM | #14 | |
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10-28-2013, 07:33 PM | #15 |
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Don't criticize my awesome MS Paint skills!!!
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10-28-2013, 07:40 PM | #16 |
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Sorry, forgot about MS-8 power wiring. Here you can use 10 gauge. About the same lengths as before, depending on where you put the unit. 6 feet each is safe. Ring terminals for battery/chassis ground connections, forked spade connectors for MS-8 connection. Distribution/fuse block can be used but not necessary. You also need some single thread thin wire (18-20 gauge) to use for turn-on signal between MS-8 and aftermarket amp.
Edit: when I say distribution/fuse block not necessary I mean the you still need to fuse the wire near the battery, you will just have two separate wire runs. Instead, you could use a single 8 gauge run to near where the amp and ms8 will be located, and then use a distribution block to wire each device separately.
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10-28-2013, 07:50 PM | #17 |
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10-28-2013, 08:21 PM | #18 | |
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10-29-2013, 09:02 AM | #19 |
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10-29-2013, 09:28 AM | #20 | |
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As I pointed out, the long-term costs of the DA2 are probably less than the Hifi recode process. If one were to shoot for best possible signal set-up from the OEM HU, then the DA2 is the key. But it only makes sense I think if the speakers will be upgraded at the same time, or if one could not live with the MS-8 pops.
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10-29-2013, 09:38 AM | #21 | |
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Thanks for your input. |
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10-29-2013, 09:57 AM | #22 |
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The wire should be no longer than 18". You connect the other end to the inline fuse holder. Then for the main wire run to the amp, you need 4-5 feet. Buy 6 ft to be safe. You can buy the wires by the foot and fuse holders on Parts Express I believe, or maybe Technic has it too?!
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