[nuron]

I have a 3SI from an X3 that needs the big DISA valve to be rebuilt since the door is loose and moves by itself. I'll be buying the kit from here:

https://vanos-bmw.com/repair-kit-for...-n52-n52n-n52k

unless you guys know of another source. As for my small valve, it is stuck in the open position and I can't move it with my fingers. Would that be enough of an indicator that the valve is still good? Attached is a picture of it:

[tom.gnade]

That's where I bought my repair kits. They'll combine shipping if you buy them both at the same time. The hardware looks like it's made of stainless steel and the fins are aluminum, everything seemed to be good quality, much better than the stock plastic hardware.

You'll have to crack open the DISA case to install the new parts. I gave everything a good spray down with silicone grease, and sealed the halves back together by applying a thin layer of 95% formic acid and clamping the halves back together.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Oz-30-ml-...4AAOSw~y9ZDHhy

The 3IM install took a few hours, and for me was a bit tricky, but it's definitely worth it, wakes up the car a bit, lots more urgency above 4k rpm.

[nuron]

Thanks for the link on the formic acid. I think I'll hold off on the small valve DISA since it seems to be fine.

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Originally Posted by nuron

I have a 3SI from an X3 that needs the big DISA valve to be rebuilt since the door is loose and moves by itself. I'll be buying the kit from here:

https://vanos-bmw.com/repair-kit-for...-n52-n52n-n52k

unless you guys know of another source. As for my small valve, it is stuck in the open position and I can't move it with my fingers. Would that be enough of an indicator that the valve is still good? Attached is a picture of it:

Not sure why the website says "server error" for me. But whats the price for both kits?

[6ixSpd]

Originally Posted by Blueeyesredpanda

Not sure why the website says "server error" for me. But whats the price for both kits?

$75 each.

[nuron]

Originally Posted by 6ixSpd

$75 each.

With shipping it came out to a little more than this ebay listing. I'm gonna wait for those ebay coupons to show up before buying

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182310972937?ul_noapp=true

[6ixSpd]

Originally Posted by nuron

With shipping it came out to a little more than this ebay listing. I'm gonna wait for those ebay coupons to show up before buying

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182310972937?ul_noapp=true

There was an awesome 20% off any item on eBay coupon for 12 hours the other day. Scored a great deal on a MTech rear bumper!

[nuron]

Yeah I used that too on some blacked out kidneys haha. I actually messaged that seller right after the sale ended and he just restocked it. I'll wait for another $15 off $75 since that seems to come up more often.

[desertman123]

I just used the high temp high strength JB weld and have had 0 issues lol

[drunkenup]

FWIW, I just installed a kit from that site to rebuild my larger DISA. The new flap and shaft has some considerable play, maybe 15 degrees worth of movement without moving the gears. Tightening it doesn't really make a difference and just seizes the flap from moving.

Please let me know if I'm doing something wrong lol

[nuron]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

For anyone interested, this post details the problem with our DISA valves:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1#post22022631

this is really helpful. is this why desertman posted his message below? it didn't make sense until i read your post haha

Originally Posted by desertman123

I just used the high temp high strength JB weld and have had 0 issues lol

might try your way to bond my current pieces instead of spending money on a rebuild kit

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by nuron

this is really helpful. is this why desertman posted his message below? it didn't make sense until i read your post haha



might try your way to bond my current pieces instead of spending money on a rebuild kit

Yes! Sorry I glossed over the thread - I saw 'DISA rebuild' and tossed my experience in right away

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1457778

The current rebuild kits going around have both a metal shaft and flap that screw into each other.

Originally Posted by drunkenup

FWIW, I just installed a kit from that site to rebuild my larger DISA. The new flap and shaft has some considerable play, maybe 15 degrees worth of movement without moving the gears. Tightening it doesn't really make a difference and just seizes the flap from moving.

Please let me know if I'm doing something wrong lol

Yes tighten it until it won't move. Trust me I went thru the exact same thing. My thought process is that there will be a moderate amount of force against the flap inside the manifold as air rushes by it, so it needs to stay almost airtight.

I even went as far as taking a video of the valve to make sure it would open and close correctly.

[Nebraska330xi]

Interesting on these rebuilds, I should have dug more on this earlier.

I just ordered a new large DISA as I have been replacing my oil separator (2006 n52 only) and related hoses. Came to find out that the DISA was exploded in my intake manifold when the garbage quality plastic pin dropped out of the throttle body mount point, and a began my state of panic. Luckily I identified it and it was the large DISA and not some internal piece of the manifold. I'm fairly sure a past mechanic saw this was broken and just put it back in the manifold without the flap on it. Which is a huge risk as that pin could shoot right into where the magic happens.

I snaked the whole manifold with nothing to be found in there so that had to be what happened. The amount of cheap plastic in this engine is insane, so an aluminum rebuild is intriguing.

End rant

[drunkenup]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Yes! Sorry I glossed over the thread - I saw 'DISA rebuild' and tossed my experience in right away

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1457778

The current rebuild kits going around have both a metal shaft and flap that screw into each other.




Yes tighten it until it won't move. Trust me I went thru the exact same thing. My thought process is that there will be a moderate amount of force against the flap inside the manifold as air rushes by it, so it needs to stay almost airtight.

I even went as far as taking a video of the valve to make sure it would open and close correctly.

Thanks. I ended up sealing it with the play using the clear JB weld. I'll find some time to open it back up. It absolutely got rid of my low rpm throttle-lift stumbling, though.

Anyone putting it off should really do it sooner than later, the crank was shot and the pin holding the top of the flap to the entire assembly was missing. While cracking the back open the flap just casually fell out.

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Originally Posted by desertman123

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1457778

The current rebuild kits going around have both a metal shaft and flap that screw into each other.




Yes tighten it until it won't move. Trust me I went thru the exact same thing. My thought process is that there will be a moderate amount of force against the flap inside the manifold as air rushes by it, so it needs to stay almost airtight.

I even went as far as taking a video of the valve to make sure it would open and close correctly.

Just want to confirm the O Ring is suppose to go in between the new gear and the new shaft right? And it needs to be tightened to the max? So its not hand movable? Any idea if it possinble to test both disa before install the 3IM?

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by desertman123

I even went as far as taking a video of the valve to make sure it would open and close correctly.

Have you tested DISA valves using INPA before?

I went to: Engine > MSV80.0 > F6 (Activate) > F1 (Actuator Activations 1) > Shift+F6 (VIMDISA)



I connected each DISA valve to the longer cable (system 2) since the other cable was too short to be used for testing. I was able open both valves, but they would only close 33% when prompted (shift+F2). I'm not sure if this is normal behaviour...

Here's a photo of the small valve at "33% closed"

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

Have you tested DISA valves using INPA before?

I went to: Engine > MSV80.0 > F6 (Activate) > F1 (Actuator Activations 1) > Shift+F6 (VIMDISA)

INPA

I connected each DISA valve to the longer cable (system 2) since the other cable was too short to be used for testing. I was able open both valves, but they would only close 33% when prompted (shift+F2). I'm not sure if this is normal behaviour...

Looks like the percentage is the signal sent to the DISA, not the amount it's closed.

PWM = pulse width modulation. It's like a dimmer switch for digital circuits.

I'll do that, but I also heard both DISAs actuate when I got the tune installed

[PORTMOODY]

I have a used manifold, about 60k miles on it. You guys think I should just go ahead and rebuild as a precaution? Can I test the disa valves before I install and can they be removed with the manifold installed if I find out they are not functioning after the install?

[PORTMOODY]

Originally Posted by freedomfries

If the flaps feel solid then a rebuild is unnecessary. You can test them before installation by connecting them to your car and starting the engine or by using INPA. You can't remove the small DISA valve once the manifold is installed

Thanks, the panic in my head over this didn't let me think straight. I guess I will hook up the valves to the plugs now and check on inpa as well as the mechanical movements.

In the end though, If they are going to fail, I think it might be best to do it now instead redoing this whole process down the line.

[nuron]

Just bought another vehicle so I've been busy with it instead of this project. Since the rebuild kit doesn't fix the actual issue, I'll be disassembling my valves and trying the JB Weld to see! Updates in the next couple weeks.

[johnmyster]

For information...as I have not seen this addressed on these forums.

BMW did a few updates on the valves during the production years of our cars. Based on superseded part numbers, the best I can tell is one update on the small, two on the large.

The later valve variants have different shafts and bushings. The latest change occurred during 2007/2008. The large updated part number is 11617579114. The small is 11617560538. These numbers supersede the prior versions.

I've sourced, tested, and sold 40+ of these manifolds for three stage conversions in the past year. In the case of the earlier valves, the large one is almost always disentigrated beyond 100k miles and requires replacement...as I do not rebuild valves for the 3im "kits" that I sell. I've never seen the later variants (years and part numbers given above) failed, regardless of mileage.

One exception, I have RARELY seen the smaller valve of the newer design stuck open, but this will throw a CEL as it is recognized by the car. Disintegrated shafts and floppy valves are not noticeable to the computer. (I can see the OP has a part number ending in 538 and indicates the "stuck" problem.) I do not know if the stuck valves are indicative of a burned out motor or debris in the gears. I've only seen one failed in this manner and have not taken the time to tear it apart for further testing.

I say this to say, if you can find later valves for your car (from X3, X5, Z4 Si, or n51) it's probably just as good or better than a rebuild on the earlier/superseded designs. I would suggest that precautionary rebuilding on later valves is unnecessary and that rebuilds due to failure will probably never be needed.

[Blueeyesredpanda]

Originally Posted by desertman123

Yes tighten it until it won't move.

Are you sure it needs to be tighten till the flaps do not move freely?