[justpete]

Originally Posted by CobraMarty

'What about custom reground cams'? This is asked all the time.

1- Very expensive and expensive install
2-

Relatively, yes. Not as expensive as fully custom made cams but that's the way it is. And the next project on the list, time to start pestering Schrick once I can get some design data from head flow analysis. At least the N54 cams provide a starting point and would only require a different lobe profile.

[cwlo]

What about leaving the intake cam with MILV, and then just swapping in a hotter exhaust cam?

[CobraMarty]

I ordered 2 different looking Valvetronic spring removal/installer tools. One is the vice grip one and the other is different non-vice grip. Both about $250 each.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Valvetr...YAAOSwp5JWXz2b

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Mini-Va...sAAOSwl~tZlJvL

I am going to look at them both and try and find an easier/safer way to install these parts. IDK if these tools will help or not. I have had good luck with the washer/spacer method. Just re-looking at the install sequence.

Any hints or suggestions are appreciated.

[hassmaschine]

I'd be interested in renting one of those if that's a possibility. On my 'junk' head I didn't care if the spring just popped loose or if it ripped the threads out with the bolt, but on my other head I'd rather not strip the threads etc...

as far as the installation, I think the washers work fine. Sometimes it helps if you stack two of them on top of each other, gives more space between the spring and the shim - maybe you just need some thicker washers? Also, those other tools are really long - you might have to do some stuff with the hood to make enough space.

[CobraMarty]

I want to try them on the engine on the stand and if I have to modify them/shorten so be it.

I really want to see if I can make a simplified tool similar that would do the job.
Imagine a pin thru the 2 spring coils and a lever bar that connects to that pin and the lever is pushed down on the spring mounting area to hold the spring and then remove the bolt and then release the spring and remove the spring. Remove and replace the supports, bolt into position. Then place the spring back into position and lever it down and replace the bolt.

Or just 'rent' out the tools for basically shipping cost with refundable replacement deposit. Or something like that.

I can include 2 washers. I just got some 'thicker' 0.125" thick 1/4 inch washers to try.

[CobraMarty]

BPC did a MILVs install on their S55.

Stock turbos, only downpipes and BPC tune, 93 octane pump gas.
No ethanol, No meth, No PI or TBI, no bigger turbos

These S55 are difficult to break 500rwhp on pump gas and stock turbos.
Kudos to BPC for breaking 500rwhp with pump gas, downpipes and tune.

The MILVs added +5rwhp at peak but added +35rwhp across the upper rpm range, over 4000 to redline.

Will attach dyno later when on a different computer.

[Mike.]

have they done an N55 yet?

[CobraMarty]

No.

Hopefully BPC will have a N55 and N20 customer soon.
Twisted Tuning in NY has a N55 that he is doing soon.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by CobraMarty

BPC did a MILVs install on their S55.

Stock turbos, only downpipes and BPC tune, 93 octane pump gas.
No ethanol, No meth, No PI or TBI, no bigger turbos

These S55 are difficult to break 500rwhp on pump gas and stock turbos.
Kudos to BPC for breaking 500rwhp with pump gas, downpipes and tune.

The MILVs added +5rwhp at peak but added +35rwhp across the upper rpm range, over 4000 to redline.

Will attach dyno later when on a different computer.

Did you figure out which tool is better? I just popped a spring off on install.

[CobraMarty]

I'm currently out of town working at my 'real' job. Won't be back until late Monday night.
I only got them last week and have not tried them on the engine.
This week, Tuesday and Wednesday I will try them and see what I think and let you know.

I do know that one guy tried the tool with the vice grip and the 'arms' that hooked under would slip and he had to wrap them with electrical tape /heat shrink to get them to work. He wasn't all that impressed.

[W37V]

Found this useful

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19355253

[CobraMarty]

Thank you, Great video.
That is one of the tools I got. Now I want to see if I can make a simpler version.

[CobraMarty]

ATTENTION ALL

There have been many trouble free MILVs installs with great results.

In the last week there have been some install issues.
The problem has been with the unscrewing of the spring retaining bolt.
1-the bolt head broke off when loosened and under spring tension
2-the bolt itself stripped, thank goodness not the head
3-the bolt itself broke in half

Some problem might be in using the small install washer and not getting it under the spring all the way so that the spring sits flat on the washer and not at an angle.

I would not do any further installs at this time.

I bought 2 spring removal tools to test and make available for install.
I am going to see about making a simpler spring removal tool.

At this point I recommend waiting on your install or buying a spring removal tool off ebay. They are about $250.

If you purchase and get one of the spring removal tools off ebay and use it, when you are done with your install, if you send the tool and your old stock supports to me, I will pay you $250.

Thank you everyone for your feedback.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by CobraMarty

Thank you everyone for your feedback.

I just did install today. Broke one bolt on the support (cylinder 5) - while tightening it just snapped. I contribute the breakage to sucky harbor freight torque wrench. It got over-torqued and it just snapped. It didn't take much to break it. Maybe it was already cracked.

Installation is quite straight forward. By 3rd cylinder I got super comfortable. I even made videos on how easy this thing is to install - i was able to swap them with one hand. I will post it once I edit it. I don't attribute the installation issues to poor instructions or bad provided "tool". At the end I even used power tools. Each cylinder swap took about 5 min.

[hassmaschine]

Maybe it would be worthwhile to include new bolts?

The bolts on the supports are small enough that 'gutentite' is sufficient, and you're more likely to break them by using a torque wrench when it's not really neccesary.

[weehe126]

Install is very straight forward once you realize where the cam needs to be positions. I messed up by having my first one be in the wrong position and forcing it out. This then popped the spring off one side when trying to get the new milv in. Did two others no issue with the washer and cam in Correct position. Bought the tool and will fix it this week. Now I'm concerned about breaking a bolt lol.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Install is very straight forward once you realize where the cam needs to be positions. I messed up by having my first one be in the wrong position and forcing it out. This then popped the spring off one side when trying to get the new milv in. Did two others no issue with the washer and cam in Correct position. Bought the tool and will fix it this week. Now I'm concerned about breaking a bolt lol.

Cam position is the key. If you missed the point, then it will be a bitch. If you got the right angle, you can do it with one hand. Everything just slides in and out with ease.

Don’t be nervous about bolts. The biggest tip I can give you is: use a screwdriver with e8 attached to it and tighten the bolts that way. Everyone’s grip is different, but it will be super close to specs. Also, as soon as the bolt gets tight, try torque wrench. I don’t foresee breaking bolts without something else affecting it.

[CobraMarty]

Including replacement bolts is a thought.

BMW #07129904571 M6x23 are about $2.00 each
Bolt Depot has shouldered bolts M6x25mm with hex head $0.18-$0.25 each. Depending on full or partial threaded, 8.8, 10.9 or SS.

So would 25mm length work? I suspect that they would.
Hex head?
How many needed? Only use if break a bolt? Whole set?

I completely agree on the cam position being helpful.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by W37V

Cam position is the key. If you missed the point, then it will be a bitch. If you got the right angle, you can do it with one hand. Everything just slides in and out with ease.

Don’t be nervous about bolts. The biggest tip I can give you is: use a screwdriver with e8 attached to it and tighten the bolts that way. Everyone’s grip is different, but it will be super close to specs. Also, as soon as the bolt gets tight, try torque wrench. I don’t foresee breaking bolts without something else affecting it.

I'll post a picture of the cam position that worked for me. I think this pic should be added to the instructions as my confusion came from trying to follow that line.

I just want to confirm that 120inlb is correct for the spring bolt as well. When I did the loosen 5 turns, it then tightened 5.5 turns to reach 120inlb.

[W37V]

Originally Posted by CobraMarty

Including replacement bolts is a thought.

BMW #07129904571 M6x23 are about $2.00 each
Bolt Depot has shouldered bolts M6x25mm with hex head $0.18-$0.25 each. Depending on full or partial threaded, 8.8, 10.9 or SS.

So would 25mm length work? I suspect that they would.
Hex head?
How many needed? Only use if break a bolt? Whole set?

I completely agree on the cam position being helpful.

I just ordered 1 bolt from bmw. They don’t have them in stock, so they have to order it.

I think 4 bolts for supports and 2 for springs would be sufficient in the kit. If one breaks more than that, one might be unluckiest person ever.

Marty, if you are considering aftermarket bolts, then get them as close as possible to stock. No need to spend $2 per bolt, but there is no point in saving 25 cents per bolt either.

Personally, if I got used car and while replacing valve cover gasket saw mismatched bolts on the cams, it would make me question everything about the car and wonder what the person was thinking / doing - why did they do what they did, etc.

[cwlo]

I'm the other person that broke a bolt. After reading this thread, there was thought that a thicker washer would make install easier, so I went straight to 2 washers. If I had done the 1 washer first, I would have known how it was supposed to proceed, but with the 2 thinner 1/4" washers, (not grade 8 like marty supplies), it would not fully fit under the spring pad, so it angled the spring pad. Well, not knowing this was not right, I tightened it down and the spring pad flattened out. I pulled the MILV spacer out, and then tried to get the new one in, but it did not go in. I went back in the house to review the procedure that is in this thread....went back to garage and decided to try the 1 washer, so I started to loosen the bolt, and it immediately snapped. Now, I was using a 1/4" ratchet on this bolt the whole time, and didn't torque it hard, but I think the spring tension and angled pad put a lot of force on a very small area, thus stretching the bolt. Then when I tried to loosen it, the force in the other direction finished it off.

So, my problem was largely because of operator error. Now that I've used the single washer, that part of the procedure is pretty straight forward. However, I still cannot get a new MILV in there, with the roller wheels underneath. My issue is the two rollers are retracted back. I spent a little time working them forward, and trying to wedge them underneath, but stopped with it, as I need to get the valvetronic tool now for the one spring that came off, so might as well use it for all of them. Anyway, are some people saying they did not have to deal with this, and the MILV just slid right in? If so, what was different? Bottom line, a video would be immensely helpful in being able to see exactly where the cam lobe is positioned, ease of MILV insertion, etc.. Then one would know exactly how it should proceed, and not stray from that.

[weehe126]

You probably have the cam in the wrong spot like I did. Cam lobe needs to be vertical or just past vertical and it will slide right out/in.