[isd8266]

Parts Needed:
- Wheel bearing: 31226783913
- Lock Ring: 07119934760
- Axle Nut: 33411133785


Tools Needed:
- 36mm 12point socket
- 10mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 24mm socket
- 17mm, 18mm, 24mm wrench
- 4.5mm, 6mm Hex key
- 5mm, 6mm, 7mm Hex bit sockets
- Screwdriver
- Curved nose pliers
- Press
- Below are images of the tools I made.






Suggested Tightening Torques:
- Axle Nut: 420Nm (310 ft-lb)
- Control Arm Bolt: 100Nm (74 ft-lb)
- Stabilizer Bar Link: 58Nm (42 ft-lb)
- Tension Strut: 165Nm (122 ft-lb)
- Tie Rod: 80Nm (59 ft-lb)
- Strut: 81Nm (60 ft-lb)

CAUTION: Before you being, just know that this is not an easy job. It all depends on where you live [Road salt!!!]. I live in NY and rust is a major factor and can cause a lot of issues, so if you do not have a lot of tools at your dispense you may have a hard time. My initial plan was to pull the bearing without detaching the steering knuckle, but the bearing was locked in with rust and required a press to remove it. I am in no way responsible for your work. If anyone wants dimensions for the tools I made let me know and I’d be happy to help. Once again do at your own risk and good luck. Also thanks ken1137 for the detail, it helped out in the long run.


1. Remove the center cap off the wheel and loosen the axle nut using a (36mm 12 point) socket. The 12 point on mine was far gone so I had to drill it off.


2. Raise the car and remove the wheel, and the axle nut.
3. Remove the break caliper by first removing the clip by pressing it towards the caliper(Straight edge screwdriver).

4. Remove the plastic caps on the back of caliper and remove both pins using a (7mm) hex socket, the smaller pin is from the top and the larger from the bottom.



5. In order to remove the caliper you might have to apply pressure to the piston by prying with a screwdriver to free the caliper from the rotor.

6. Remove the rotor by using a hex key (6mm) to remove the holding screw.

7. Remove the dust shield by removing the 4 bolts with a (10mm) socket.



8. Remove the caliper mounting bracket by removing the two bolts using a (16mm) socket.

9. [Caution: Once you attempt this step the current bearing will be destroyed and you will not be able to drive the car until the bearing is replaced.]I used a slide hammer and a self made tool to remove the drive flange hub from the steering knuckle. This was before I realized the wheel bearing was rusted into the steering knuckle. If you do not have the capability to make such a tool, the easiest approach would be to remove the whole Steering knuckle assembly (follow next steps) and then push the drive flange hub out with a press.


10. Once the drive flange hub is removed, use a pair of curved needle nose pliers to remove to lock ring.

11. To follow the normal procedure, use a setup similar to bellow (Good front wheel drive bearing removal kits have similar disks, but I made mine.) and use a wrench to pull the bearing out of the steering knuckle. Since my bearing was rusted in I had to remove the steering knuckle and use a press. The following steps will demonstrate how to do so. Reference red highlights for step 17.


12. Remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle by using a (24mm) socket and a [(6mm) hex key needed for tightening.]

13. Remove the stabilizer bar link using a (17mm) wrench on the outside lower portion of the bar and a (16mm) socket on the outside lower nut. (bold highlighted in red)

14. Remove the control arm by remove the inside bolt using a (18mm) wrench and a (18mm) socket.

15. Remove the Tension strut (thrust arm) by removing the nut, using a (24mm) wrench and a (4.5mm) hex key. I had to use a ball joint separation tool in order to get the arm to separate from the steering knuckle. I didn’t get a clear picture of this, but I circled where the nut is in red.

16. Remove the ABS sensor for the hub by using a (5mm) hex socket and carefully pry the sensor from the steering knuckle. They’re pretty easy to break so watch out.

17. Remove the strut bolt by using (18mm) wrench and a (18mm) socket. Once the bolt is removing if the steering knuckle has not fallen use a hammer to tap it down. I didn’t get a picture of the bolt or nut, but highlighted their location in red in step 11’s second picture.

18. Now that the hub is free use a press to press the remained of the bearing out of the steering knuckle. Mine was locked it and required 8 tons of pressure to break the seal.


19. Remove the remainder of the bearing that is stuck on the drive flange hub by using a chisel and a hammer. Once there was a large enough gap, I used a bearing puller and plats to get the remainder off the shaft.



20. Clean both the inside of the steering knuckle and the drive flange hub. Be sure to clean where the rotor meets the drive flange hub. Once clean I applied anti seize to the inside of the steering knuckle.

21. Place the new bearing in the steering knuckle using a press and the old bearing to push it into the steering knuckle. [Important: Make sure the wide chamber of bearing is going into the hub. On the bearing I removed and the new bearing it was the side with black on the end (F.A.G. bearings). In the image the left side of the bearing goes into the steering knuckle.]



22. Insert the lock ring into the steering knuckle using curved needle nose pliers.
23. Apply a lubricant to the shaft of the drive flange hub and used the press to press it in to steering knuckle.

24. After the drive flange hub is pressed into the steering knuckle reassemble as taken off (follow above tightening torques). Once the axle nut is on use a drift to strike the axle nut on both sides.

[lingnoi]

Respect!

This is clearly for professionals only!

Regards,
L

[isd8266]

Thanks, it's definitely a pain, but can be done. I had such a hard time due to rust. I imagine without rust it would have taken half the time.

[JTWCT]

It appears that you kept your original hub and replaced only the wheel bearing. I've seen other replace both the hub and the wheel bearing. Was there a reason why you didn't replace the hub?

[isd8266]

Yeah, there was no reason to replace it. The only reason I could see replacing it is if it was already damaged or damaged when you removed it. Last October I went to two different BMW shops to get a quote for the front driver’s side bearing and all they replace is the bearing, lock ring, and axle nut. RWD E90’s have a totally different front bearing that comes in one hub assembly (hub and bearing). Is this what you are talking about? The following link below shows what a e90 RWD hub/bearing looks like.

http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/i...1208555887.png

[JTWCT]

Awesome, thanks. That's exactly what I'm talking about. I have a 328xi E92 and all I want to replace are the bearing, lock ring, and axle nut.

Originally Posted by isd8266

Yeah, there was no reason to replace it. The only reason I could see replacing it is if it was already damaged or damaged when you removed it. Last October I went to two different BMW shops to get a quote for the front driver’s side bearing and all they replace is the bearing, lock ring, and axle nut. RWD E90’s have a totally different front bearing that comes in one hub assembly (hub and bearing). Is this what you are talking about? The following link below shows what a e90 RWD hub/bearing looks like.

http://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/i...1208555887.png

[pifane]

Anyone done the same for the back? Found videos on youtube about E46, but nothing about E90 XDRIVE.

[isd8266]

Originally Posted by pifane

Anyone done the same for the back? Found videos on youtube about E46, but nothing about E90 XDRIVE.

I was going to since I already had everything I need to do it, but to tell you the truth the job looks like a pain in the ass due to the coil spring. If you haven't done it yet and are still looking to pm me, I have the instructions you'll need.

[TheBigYahi]

If I just wanted to replace the hub, is that doable while on the vehicle? I'm in upstate NY as well. I had to drill out and re-tap the rotor set screw holes and one is a little misaligned now so I'm considering my options. The screw fits but I had to really crank on it to get the rotor flush with the hub.

[07lilredwagon]

I know this is an old post, but it is just so damn well written!

thanks OP!

JP

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by TheBigYahi

If I just wanted to replace the hub, is that doable while on the vehicle? I'm in upstate NY as well. I had to drill out and re-tap the rotor set screw holes and one is a little misaligned now so I'm considering my options. The screw fits but I had to really crank on it to get the rotor flush with the hub.

holy thread revival batman.... seriously though, can you do the HUB only without all the trouble shown above to get the bearing out? I have one hub that was damaged during a brake swap a few years back and I think it's time to replace it; the rotor doesn't want to sit flush against the hub...

[Sertone777]

Old thread but awesome. Im getting ready to do hub bearings my self . thanks for the Post! Luckily I have a press!

[mwd1676]

Originally Posted by Sertone777

Old thread but awesome. Im getting ready to do hub bearings my self . thanks for the Post! Luckily I have a press!

How'd it go for you? I'm doing it this weekend.

[snowpunk84]

Anyone have the pictures to go with this? All i'm seeing is a triangle with an exclamation point inside.

[theodorel]

Hey isd8266, Is there any way that you can get the pictures linked again!?? I want to do this and I just want to see what you made so I know if I have the appropriate BMW tools in hand already.

[Maniac0908]

Same!!! Please post pics

[viccabral]

Where are the pics??? I can't see the pics in the thread...

[Ricthewrench]

Need pics!

[Maniac0908]

Hellpppppp we need picssss

[dima420]

Awsome DIY work with details. Pictures would be a huge help, but it looks like they have vanished.

[Maniac0908]

Originally Posted by dima420

Awsome DIY work with details. Pictures would be a huge help, but it looks like they have vanished.

I know..... I wonder if it's the same as rear??

[gspinks11]

Originally Posted by isd8266

Parts Needed:
- Wheel bearing: 31226783913
- Lock Ring: 07119934760
- Axle Nut: 33411133785


Tools Needed:
- 36mm 12point socket
- 10mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 24mm socket
- 17mm, 18mm, 24mm wrench
- 4.5mm, 6mm Hex key
- 5mm, 6mm, 7mm Hex bit sockets
- Screwdriver
- Curved nose pliers
- Press
- Below are images of the tools I made.






Suggested Tightening Torques:
- Axle Nut: 420Nm (310 ft-lb)
- Control Arm Bolt: 100Nm (74 ft-lb)
- Stabilizer Bar Link: 58Nm (42 ft-lb)
- Tension Strut: 165Nm (122 ft-lb)
- Tie Rod: 80Nm (59 ft-lb)
- Strut: 81Nm (60 ft-lb)

CAUTION: Before you being, just know that this is not an easy job. It all depends on where you live [Road salt!!!]. I live in NY and rust is a major factor and can cause a lot of issues, so if you do not have a lot of tools at your dispense you may have a hard time. My initial plan was to pull the bearing without detaching the steering knuckle, but the bearing was locked in with rust and required a press to remove it. I am in no way responsible for your work. If anyone wants dimensions for the tools I made let me know and I’d be happy to help. Once again do at your own risk and good luck. Also thanks ken1137 for the detail, it helped out in the long run.


1. Remove the center cap off the wheel and loosen the axle nut using a (36mm 12 point) socket. The 12 point on mine was far gone so I had to drill it off.


2. Raise the car and remove the wheel, and the axle nut.
3. Remove the break caliper by first removing the clip by pressing it towards the caliper(Straight edge screwdriver).

4. Remove the plastic caps on the back of caliper and remove both pins using a (7mm) hex socket, the smaller pin is from the top and the larger from the bottom.



5. In order to remove the caliper you might have to apply pressure to the piston by prying with a screwdriver to free the caliper from the rotor.

6. Remove the rotor by using a hex key (6mm) to remove the holding screw.

7. Remove the dust shield by removing the 4 bolts with a (10mm) socket.



8. Remove the caliper mounting bracket by removing the two bolts using a (16mm) socket.

9. [Caution: Once you attempt this step the current bearing will be destroyed and you will not be able to drive the car until the bearing is replaced.]I used a slide hammer and a self made tool to remove the drive flange hub from the steering knuckle. This was before I realized the wheel bearing was rusted into the steering knuckle. If you do not have the capability to make such a tool, the easiest approach would be to remove the whole Steering knuckle assembly (follow next steps) and then push the drive flange hub out with a press.


10. Once the drive flange hub is removed, use a pair of curved needle nose pliers to remove to lock ring.

11. To follow the normal procedure, use a setup similar to bellow (Good front wheel drive bearing removal kits have similar disks, but I made mine.) and use a wrench to pull the bearing out of the steering knuckle. Since my bearing was rusted in I had to remove the steering knuckle and use a press. The following steps will demonstrate how to do so. Reference red highlights for step 17.


12. Remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle by using a (24mm) socket and a [(6mm) hex key needed for tightening.]

13. Remove the stabilizer bar link using a (17mm) wrench on the outside lower portion of the bar and a (16mm) socket on the outside lower nut. (bold highlighted in red)

14. Remove the control arm by remove the inside bolt using a (18mm) wrench and a (18mm) socket.

15. Remove the Tension strut (thrust arm) by removing the nut, using a (24mm) wrench and a (4.5mm) hex key. I had to use a ball joint separation tool in order to get the arm to separate from the steering knuckle. I didn’t get a clear picture of this, but I circled where the nut is in red.

16. Remove the ABS sensor for the hub by using a (5mm) hex socket and carefully pry the sensor from the steering knuckle. They’re pretty easy to break so watch out.

17. Remove the strut bolt by using (18mm) wrench and a (18mm) socket. Once the bolt is removing if the steering knuckle has not fallen use a hammer to tap it down. I didn’t get a picture of the bolt or nut, but highlighted their location in red in step 11’s second picture.

18. Now that the hub is free use a press to press the remained of the bearing out of the steering knuckle. Mine was locked it and required 8 tons of pressure to break the seal.


19. Remove the remainder of the bearing that is stuck on the drive flange hub by using a chisel and a hammer. Once there was a large enough gap, I used a bearing puller and plats to get the remainder off the shaft.



20. Clean both the inside of the steering knuckle and the drive flange hub. Be sure to clean where the rotor meets the drive flange hub. Once clean I applied anti seize to the inside of the steering knuckle.

21. Place the new bearing in the steering knuckle using a press and the old bearing to push it into the steering knuckle. [Important: Make sure the wide chamber of bearing is going into the hub. On the bearing I removed and the new bearing it was the side with black on the end (F.A.G. bearings). In the image the left side of the bearing goes into the steering knuckle.]



22. Insert the lock ring into the steering knuckle using curved needle nose pliers.
23. Apply a lubricant to the shaft of the drive flange hub and used the press to press it in to steering knuckle.

24. After the drive flange hub is pressed into the steering knuckle reassemble as taken off (follow above tightening torques). Once the axle nut is on use a drift to strike the axle nut on both sides.

hell of a guide but its a shame its not longer helpful to most being that there are no pictures.

Any chance you have these pics still??

I am about to do this job as well.