[Salzamani]

Guys, I got a 2011 E92 manual transmission. Oil pan was leaking so I did the gasket yesterday. One of the 28 aluminum bolts just refused to thread on and after an hour of fighting it I threw in the towel and just left it off. The reason was because it seemed to be in the best location. It was on the side that the previous gasket didn’t leak and it was not a corner bolt. After the job I did start the car and took it for a 30min test drive and so far so good no leaks.

My question is this based on those facts above ⬆️ what are the odds that a leak will eventually develop on that spot?

[marvinstockman]

What is the worst case if it starts to leak? Answer, you change the gasket.

[Salzamani]

Update; overnight there was a puddle of oil. My heart dropped. I put the car up on the ramp and got under. Turns out it was not the missing bolt. All the pan bolts was dry so far. The drain plug was leaking. Thank god! I didn’t replace the crush washer. Is that crush washer that crucial to change every oil change?

[rbryantaz]

Originally Posted by Salzamani

Update; overnight there was a puddle of oil. My heart dropped. I put the car up on the ramp and got under. Turns out it was not the missing bolt. All the pan bolts was dry so far. The drain plug was leaking. Thank god! I didn’t replace the crush washer. Is that crush washer that crucial to change every oil change?

Why not just get a tap and clean up the threads? It should be a simple M8x1.25" tap. Just make sure not to keep turning after it bottoms out.

They also make "cleanout" taps that are just for fixing threads that are less aggressive than a normal tap.

If the car is an N54/N55 you can also use a steel bolt in its place. If it is an N52/N53 with the magnesium shell then it needs to be an aluminum bolt.

-Rich

[mainbearing]

+1, you can try to repair the pan bolt thread either by using a thread chaser or a tap. A tap cuts more aggressively than a chaser. Still be careful with either one.

I reuse the copper crush washer and keep the extras in case of needing them for hydrulic connections. Does not seem to be a problem.

[rbryantaz]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

+1, you can try to repair the pan bolt thread either by using a thread chaser or a tap. A tap cuts more aggressively than a chaser. Still be careful with either one.

I reuse the copper crush washer and keep the extras in case of needing them for hydrulic connections. Does not seem to be a problem.

Copper crush washers can also be re-annealed with a propane torch.

Just heat it up to red hot and then quench it by putting it in water while still red hot and it will be soft again and ready for re-use.

-Rich

[Salzamani]

Thanks guys if one of the pan bolts leaks eventually I will consider your suggestions. Great advice. So the washer on the drain bolt that was leaking I’m was actually steel and it looked slightly cracked. So get this the drain bolt is a 19mm. I guess one of the previous owners when with an oversized when the original bolt was stripped. I thought maybe Home Depot would have a copper washer big enough but they didn’t. I decided to just take one of my Toyota washers and
enlarge the center so that oversized nut will at least have a copper washer. Also the drain likes a little dented around that drain bolt area. So getting a seal is a bit tricky. I threw some teflon tape on the thread as well just to give it a decent chance and so far so good. After I was all done I decided to stop by Autozone where they carry the Eco-plug (a magnetic plug) that worked great for my sons Camry and sure enough they happen to have one more left. Only $7.99 had to grab it just in case I need it in the future. That like. Close out price because they sell for a lot more usually at other stores. More like $20. Anyways looks like for now I might be fixed up.