[Torqu3]

Crankers are the kinds of people that use PVC pipes to make scoops.

Jokes aside, I grab an NT510 for diagnosis and service, and it has easily paid for itself. Priming the fuel system was a breeze, and gives me peace of mind. I'm sure cranking, so long as you minimize the amount of fuel spillage is not an issue. Thinking about doing battery registrations for the local people for $30. Make some cash, and save them 50% compared to the indy shops in town.

This tool has easily paid for itself. Monitoring coolant temp after thermostat swap, transmission fluid temp for a filter and fluid change. Oil temp so I don't burn myself doing oil changes. Resetting adaptations on basically everything.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by lnxguy

I think BB_Cuda is going to choke on his dinner when he realizes that there are a lot of 'crankers' out there. I'm one of them, no plans on changing that. Fill the fuel filter, stop any diesel from draining out when removing filter (golf ball T) and go to town.

What ever you guys choose to do is your business. From my reading, it appears there may be an equal number or more crankers than not. Your post doesn't cause me to lose any sleep as it isn't my HPFP. I only cautioned above that you all not represent it as without risk to the many new owners coming to our sub group now that VW is buying back their diesel cars.

My post on the other thread was that another was happening. Because of all the new members, this is happening on the CBU clean, EGR blockoff, exhaust, meth/water inject, etc. fronts. I am not the forum police here guys. Its your forum area too. Peace

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

What ever you guys choose to do is your business. From my reading, it appears there may be an equal number or more crankers than not. Your post doesn't cause me to lose any sleep as it isn't my HPFP. I only cautioned above that you all not represent it as without risk to the many new owners coming to our sub group now that VW is buying back their diesel cars.

My post on the other thread was that another was happening. Because of all the new members, this is happening on the CBU clean, EGR blockoff, exhaust, meth/water inject, etc. fronts. I am not the forum police here guys. Its your forum area too. Peace

Hopefully we can get some stickies up soon that will cover all of this. I should check in on that actually...

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by Kyle335D

Getting ready to use this method. I'm thinking I might pour some diesel thru the filter first to flush out any debris from the manufacturer.

There shouldn't be any debris in the filter from the manufacturer, but you definitely want to tap that fuel filter while filling to get all the air out. Our system will purge the air all by itself, as BMW designed it to do.

[aaddam2]

Just changed my FF @ 55k miles. I purchased my car @ 38k so I assumed that the FF was changed on the 2nd oil change (bmw dealer oil changes), NOPE! grrrrr. but glad I did, thanks DFFF sticky.

i didnt use any scan tools to prime the system. plugged both ends of the line asap. tried to do the whole ignition on for 1min. so i said eff it.

started it up, it cranked more than i was comfortable with (really only like 1.5-2 secs) so i stopped it. tried it again did the same thing (maybe 2.5secs this time) turned it off. then the 3rd time it took about 0.1sec longer than normal to turn over (boy was i starting to sweat during that .1 sec). let her run @ idle for a while then gave it a drive around the block.

note: i let the car sit like 30 secs between start attempts, as well as tuning off ignition/aux power, then turned on ignition for 30 secs, then starting the car.

i dont think that a total of 5 seconds of turning over really hurt the HPFP. but someone else might think/know otherwise. Level of difficulty low-moderate

[montr]

Originally Posted by aaddam2

Just changed my FF @ 55k miles. I purchased my car @ 38k so I assumed that the FF was changed on the 2nd oil change (bmw dealer oil changes), NOPE! grrrrr. but glad I did, thanks DFFF sticky.

i didnt use any scan tools to prime the system. plugged both ends of the line asap. tried to do the whole ignition on for 1min. so i said eff it.

started it up, it cranked more than i was comfortable with (really only like 1.5-2 secs) so i stopped it. tried it again did the same thing (maybe 2.5secs this time) turned it off. then the 3rd time it took about 0.1sec longer than normal to turn over (boy was i starting to sweat during that .1 sec). let her run @ idle for a while then gave it a drive around the block.

note: i let the car sit like 30 secs between start attempts, as well as tuning off ignition/aux power, then turned on ignition for 30 secs, then starting the car.

i dont think that a total of 5 seconds of turning over really hurt the HPFP. but someone else might think/know otherwise. Level of difficulty low-moderate

Did you pre-fill the new fuel filter?

[aaddam2]

Originally Posted by montr

Did you pre-fill the new fuel filter?

I left the engine side of the filter open while connecting the filter on the tank side. to try to let fuel run through the filter, but nothing came out the other end. I was doing this during my lunch break at work in our shop. so i was like eff it. which i used the fuel in the old filter to fill the new one. because a decent amount came out of that.

[BB_cuda]

"the smokers are coming", from the movie Waterworld.

Insert word crankers in for smokers. That's why i laugh when i speak of the crankers versus the primers.

[Got-Torque]

Thanks to this forum for all the useful info. Changed the fuel filter yesterday and used a scan tool to purge the air out. Worked excellent. Scan tool worked great for trans service as well (temperature).

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

Thanks to this forum for all the useful info. Changed the fuel filter yesterday and used a scan tool to purge the air out. Worked excellent. Scan tool worked great for trans service as well (temperature).

Guess you're using that Schwaben scan tool like I am. Awesome. Play around with that tool. It's crazy powerful.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

Thanks to this forum for all the useful info. Changed the fuel filter yesterday and used a scan tool to purge the air out. Worked excellent. Scan tool worked great for trans service as well (temperature).

You just got your first rep points from a fellow primer.

[Got-Torque]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

Guess you're using that Schwaben scan tool like I am. Awesome. Play around with that tool. It's crazy powerful.

Yes I am. Another recommendation on here. I haven't tried, but it should work as a regular OBD code scanner on other domestic vehicles shouldn't it? If so, I can sell my old code reader...

[Torqu3]

Not sure. I keep my old OBD to bluetooth scanner just because running Torque for monitoring is so much more convenient.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Just did the filter change. Schwaben tool worked flawlessly. For some reason it offered me a choice of 60 liter per hour test and 120 liter per hour test. I did both. Can't hurt right? The sound of gurgling was quite evident. Car fired up immediately.

[Hockey13]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

Just did the filter change. Schwaben tool worked flawlessly. For some reason it offered me a choice of 60 liter per hour test and 120 liter per hour test. I did both. Can't hurt right? The sound of gurgling was quite evident. Car fired up immediately.

the air you sounds doesn't mean anything they say.... just try to start it a million times, and by the million and 1 time it will start. no difference than using software they say.

but for real, I run as many cycles as needed to hear no are, then a couple more to be sure.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

Just did the filter change. Schwaben tool worked flawlessly. For some reason it offered me a choice of 60 liter per hour test and 120 liter per hour test. I did both. Can't hurt right? The sound of gurgling was quite evident. Car fired up immediately.

I was given the same option. I thought the 120 was for the HPFP and 60 was for the LPFP. I ran the 60 a few times until I heard no more air.

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by Torqu3

I was given the same option. I thought the 120 was for the HPFP and 60 was for the LPFP. I ran the 60 a few times until I heard no more air.

Both the same pump. Its a pwm pump, I would guess the DDE has more options in the software than just those pump speeds but the scan tools seem to have just those. My bavtech tool has the same thing. I use the 60 lph speed when purging the filter so it doesnt fill my container too fast, and the 120 lph speed for purging air from the line once its all connected back up.

[octalon7]

Just thought I would add. First, thanks for the writeup. No hacking was needed for my replacement. Although the factory hose clamp was a pain to get off. With some finesse I was able to get it come off.

I'm also a cranker and had no issues. I did my best to prevent as much spillage when I disconnected everything and then I added a bit of fuel to the new filter. Car started in under 10 seconds, first try. It died shortly after and then started on second crank after a few seconds and idled smooth from there. Someone else said they felt a placebo as if their car was running smoother, I had the same.

With some patience, definitely don't fear this job. I will report back if my HPFP ever fails and will take full blame.

[myculito]

Tackling this job during the weekend.

Questions regarding the hose clamp:

1. Does everyone just use generic hose clamps instead of the OEM one?

2. If so, what size clamps am i supposed to buy?

3. What is the consensus on removing that clamp, WITHOUT having to Dremel into it?

[octalon7]

Originally Posted by myculito

Tackling this job during the weekend.

Questions regarding the hose clamp:

1. Does everyone just use generic hose clamps instead of the OEM one?

2. If so, what size clamps am i supposed to buy?

3. What is the consensus on removing that clamp, WITHOUT having to Dremel into it?

I just used a generic worm gear hose clamp. I can't recall exact size, maybe it was a 1/2 or 3/4 inch. I just bought a few sizes and took back what I didn't need. I was able to get the OEM clamp off with some finesse using a few different pliers and some twisting until it broke off.

[Persian Whisperjet]

Same here, cheapo hose clamp works fine.

[Torqu3]

I guess someone had replaced my hose clamp before because mine came off with a flat screwdriver. No issues.