2011 335i No Start

XnWarden · 12-05-2021, 12:52 PM

Hey guys. Cross-posting this from bimmerforums. I need help cus I'm stumped.

2011 335i with the N55 sitting at around 160k miles. Friend was driving car at high rpm up a mtn road in full boost. Started sputtering and rough idle. Just generally running like garbage. Inspected and found valve cover leak dumping oil into exhaust side, blown diaphram in the crankcase valve, and spark plugs fouled and fuel soaked. Running rich. Fixed all these issues.

The car ran before coming into the garage, just ran poorly. Now after fixing all the known issues, the car will not start period. Reinspected. Battery voltage was low, so we replaced the battery and recoded it using ISTA. Car now cranks and cranks for days. Plenty of fuel pressure. But absolutely zero spark of any kind. Verified no spark condition by pulling coil #1 and grounding the plug in it. Zero activity. Checked all fuses and battery junction block/fusible links. Everything looks good. Checked engine grounds. All good. Popped ISTA back open and pulled codes. messages about EWS issues. Tried EWS realignment and it keeps crashing. Not sure where to go from here. Any thoughts??

Attached is the code from ISTA. I have already tried realigning the CaS to the EWS and running the sync program. Still nothing.

XnWarden · 12-05-2021, 02:15 PM

Idk how to post pics here so I linked it... Did more troubleshooting in ista and found this:

View post on imgur.com

ParadeinBerlin · 12-06-2021, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XnWarden

Idk how to post pics here so I linked it... Did more troubleshooting in ista and found this:

View post on imgur.com

Sometimes VANOS does not show codes… very bizarre, had this issue with a friend's N55 on the X5 model. We proceeded to tackle the entire timing system including solenoids. We torqued to spec after we re-timed it gave it some fresh Liqui Moly; we were splitting hairs. After that the car came back to life with 130,000 miles or so no hiccups and perfect idle. Hopefully this is the same issue due to your symptoms sounding very similar to what we have gone through.

Cheers

XnWarden · 12-06-2021, 09:07 PM

Well I got some more info from the guy that brought the car in. Apparently the no-start actually developed after he got the car home and right before he towed it in.

We have started digging into the electrical system. We are currently using a combination of ISTA and a good ole multimeter to start probing thru circuits. These cars have a few common failure points it seems. The JBE module under the glovebox is a big one. We have seemingly eliminated that as an issue.

Current plan of attack is continue to probe the entire engine electrical harness and just verify that all pins have appropriate voltage. Going to try the CAS reset procedures one more time just to triple check that all the rolling codes are correctly synced. We may also throw a new cam and crank sensor on for the heck of it.

If none of these things solve the issue I think I might tell the guy to just come pick the car up...

PhatKat · 12-11-2021, 08:31 PM

After replacing battery, did you verify the HPFP is supplying fuel to the rail? I had a bad HPFP that caused the car to crank but not start.

Just a thought.

12-05-2021, 12:52 PM	#1
XnWarden Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 335i Join Date: Dec 2021 Location: America iTrader: (0)	2011 335i No Start Hey guys. Cross-posting this from bimmerforums. I need help cus I'm stumped. 2011 335i with the N55 sitting at around 160k miles. Friend was driving car at high rpm up a mtn road in full boost. Started sputtering and rough idle. Just generally running like garbage. Inspected and found valve cover leak dumping oil into exhaust side, blown diaphram in the crankcase valve, and spark plugs fouled and fuel soaked. Running rich. Fixed all these issues. The car ran before coming into the garage, just ran poorly. Now after fixing all the known issues, the car will not start period. Reinspected. Battery voltage was low, so we replaced the battery and recoded it using ISTA. Car now cranks and cranks for days. Plenty of fuel pressure. But absolutely zero spark of any kind. Verified no spark condition by pulling coil #1 and grounding the plug in it. Zero activity. Checked all fuses and battery junction block/fusible links. Everything looks good. Checked engine grounds. All good. Popped ISTA back open and pulled codes. messages about EWS issues. Tried EWS realignment and it keeps crashing. Not sure where to go from here. Any thoughts?? Attached is the code from ISTA. I have already tried realigning the CaS to the EWS and running the sync program. Still nothing. Attached Images Last edited by XnWarden; 12-05-2021 at 12:58 PM..
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12-05-2021, 02:15 PM	#2
XnWarden Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 335i Join Date: Dec 2021 Location: America iTrader: (0)	Idk how to post pics here so I linked it... Did more troubleshooting in ista and found this: View post on imgur.com
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12-06-2021, 09:07 PM	#4
XnWarden Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 335i Join Date: Dec 2021 Location: America iTrader: (0)	Well I got some more info from the guy that brought the car in. Apparently the no-start actually developed after he got the car home and right before he towed it in. We have started digging into the electrical system. We are currently using a combination of ISTA and a good ole multimeter to start probing thru circuits. These cars have a few common failure points it seems. The JBE module under the glovebox is a big one. We have seemingly eliminated that as an issue. Current plan of attack is continue to probe the entire engine electrical harness and just verify that all pins have appropriate voltage. Going to try the CAS reset procedures one more time just to triple check that all the rolling codes are correctly synced. We may also throw a new cam and crank sensor on for the heck of it. If none of these things solve the issue I think I might tell the guy to just come pick the car up...
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12-11-2021, 08:31 PM	#5
PhatKat Private 5 Rep 55 Posts Drives: 2017 740i G12 / 2011 335i E93 Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Peachtree City, GA iTrader: (0)	After replacing battery, did you verify the HPFP is supplying fuel to the rail? I had a bad HPFP that caused the car to crank but not start. Just a thought.
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