[Geaff500]

E60 Battery Replacement
I have done a ton of researching for you and moderators please make this a sticky for battery replacement in the E60

This IS kind of a pain but if you want to save money and get it done correctly THIS is the way to do it.

Duralast Gold/Battery 95R-DLG
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ntifier=820339
Here's the battery, AutoZone sells it for $179.99. IGNORE the AutoZone battery finder thing, it's COMPLETELY WRONG and spits out the wrong battery.

Or:
AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 95R, 950 CCA
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..******_2130016-p
Here's the battery, Advance Auto sells it for $182.99. IGNORE the Advance auto battery finder thing, it's COMPLETELY WRONG and spits out the wrong battery.

Or:
http://www.batteriesplus.com/product...4L-850CCA.aspx
SLI95RH9

Old Battery: If this is your old battery
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 110AH 850A 1 61216901815 ENDED
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 110AH 850A 1 61217591085 ENDED

OEM Battery Specs:
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 850
Reserve Capacity (Min): 110
Battery Length: 394 mm - 15 9/16 in
Battery Width: 175 mm - 6 15/16 in
Battery Height: 190 mm - 7 1/2 in
Post Location: Top Post
Right Or Left Hand Positive: Right
Core Charge Applicable: Yes

New Battery (this is for the one I got from Advance Auto)
AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 95R, 950 CCA
Amp Hours: 110 hr
Battery Type: Lead Acid
BCI Group Size: 95
Cold Cranking Amps: 950 amps
Deep Cycle/Starting: Starting
Height: 7 1/2 in
Length: 15 9/16 in
Maintenance Free: Yes
Terminal Type: Top Terminal
Voltage: 12 v
Weight: 64 lbs
Width: 6 15/16 in

Autocraft Gold CCA 950 AH 110 RC 150
BMW OEM CCC 850 AH 110 RC 110

Other batteries that I think will work but not positive:
http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...ntity=148-690B Bosch from Bosch Premium Performance Battery Group Size 48 Pepboys $113.99
Part # 48-690B SKU: 9073748

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003c
DieHard Gold Automotive Battery - Group Size 48 $149.99

DO NOT GET THE H8 BATTERY FROM WAL-MART ALTHOUGH THE CCA IS BETTER THAN OEM AT 900CCA THE AH ON THIS BATTERY IS ONLY 80 WHICH IS NOT ENOUGH FOR OUR CARS!!!!

Out of all these choices I ended up getting the Advance Auto Battery and with using coupon code HUGE50 or TPT 30 I ended up getting $50 off of the battery. For these coupon codes to work you MUST purchase the battery online and do in store pickup!!!

If you get the Autozone or Advance Auto battery (Which I would recommend doing) they will not be able to touch your car: (I did this in the parking lot of advance auto)
Under the hood use a 12 volt source so that you car never loses power!

Battery removal and installation:
1. Remove the trunk carpet/plastic floor and lift the tray containing the spare.
2. Locate the battery by pulling the rear right corner panel inside of your trunk. There should be 1-2 plastic screws that hold the panel down.
3. Use i believe a 11-13mm socket wrench to unbolt the retainer bar (black) that holds down the battery.
4. Use a 10mm socket wrench to loosen the positive and negative terminal and pull them off the battery. Note that the positive plug has two connections. Only need to loosen the one that is connected to the battery (which is closest to the North edge)
5. Use a Phillips screw driver to loosen the long gray screw on the South side of the battery. This is clipping down the battery on the bottom.
6. Once loose enough, pull the battery straight out.
7. Replace battery and then make sure the metal clip is sitting on top of the edge of the battery case (at the bottom of the battery)
8. Tight screw so battery is held down from the bottom.
9. Attach plugs to Positive and Negative terminals and tighten the nuts.
10. Tighten the retaining bar back on and put the corner panel back.
11. Start your car and let it run for a couple of minutes and drive around the block.
13. If your car has the 4x4 warning come up all you have to do it sweep your steering wheel all the way to the left and than all the way to the right and this warning will go away.
14. If you didn't use the 12 volt source and lost power to the car, you must reset the date and time and also don't forget to reset the TPMS through the I-Drive.

After this is all completed you car should now be running fine and throwing no codes if done correctly: Call your nearest dealer or Indy shop and ask how much for "battery registration" You don't HAVE to do this but I would HIGHLY recommend it!!!
My one local dealer wanted $103.99 to register the new battery but another dealership through some talking to them opted to do it for FREE!!!

So my all in costs was $156 after the discount coupon code for advance auto and PA State tax of 6%

My dealer wanted $500 for battery replacement, installation and registering. This process I admit was a pain but with this information I already saved the leg work for you. I saved myself $344 doing the process this way!!!

[Geaff500]

Here is two great youtube videos to show you battery replacement process.

[Geaff500]

If you like you can also replace the battery with and AGM battery (especially if you already have an AGM battery) The quickest way to tell if your current battery is black it is an AGM battery if it is white it is a FLA battery.

Batteries are rated by whether they are AGM (electrolyte is suspended in Absorbed Glass Mats) or standard Flooded Lead-Acid (FLA, but you won’t see that term on the label), ranking Amps (CA, at 32 degrees F), Cold Cranking Amps (CCA, at 0 degrees F), Reserve Capacity (RC), and Amp Hours (Ah). Most batteries don’t show Ah, but the OEM does.

The BMW OEM AGM is no longer made. It was a Banner (Austria), 900 CCA, 900 CA, 160 RC and 90 Ah, AGM type,.

After research, you can go to Autozone and for $169.99 buy a Duralast H8-AGM, which is an exact size AGM replacement with 850 CCA and 975 CA, RA 170.

Popping it the car was is no problem,(use the same steps as previously listed) It’s a little heavy and awkward to move in and out, but it fits exactly. It also hooks perfectly to the OEM vent hose, with a hole on the left, but since there is also a hole on the right on the Duralast you can cover that side with tape.

If you choose to go to an AGM style battery and your car previously used and FLA battery you MUST!!! I repeat YOU MUST get the battery registered!!! Preferably on the day you change out to the AGM battery already have an appointment set up at a dealer or Indy that they could register your battery for you.

Not only you will need to register the battery but if you change the type i.e going to AGM, you need to code the vehicle to tell it it'n an AGM battery instead. That may increase the overall cost as dealer may charge you extra for coding.

[Geaff500]

BMW Battery Registration

The electrical system in late-model BMWs is so sophisticated that it tailors charging as closely as possible to both the type and age of the battery. There’s a computer that controls the alternator. When you replace a battery, this computer really needs to know if you’ve replaced the battery or updated the vehicle from a conventional Lead Acid battery to an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) type; it charges the AGM differently than a traditional battery.

This process of updating the alternator-control computer is called Battery Registration. Ignoring the registration process after replacing a battery won’t necessarily trigger a Diagnostic Trouble Code or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (‘Check Engine’ or ‘Service Engine Soon’ light). However, be warned that skipping the battery registration process can dramatically shorten the life of a battery in these vehicles and- worse yet- damage components within the entire electrical system.

We have diagnosed some BMWs with failing batteries installed less than a year simply due to failing to have the battery registered! The charging system often shortens the life of an unregistered battery by charging it too aggressively, especially when it is cold, and sometimes damaging other control units. More than once, we have replaced an alternator that failed prematurely because battery registration was not performed when the vehicle’s battery was replaced.

Battery Registration informs the vehicle that the battery has been replaced. It completes the following operations:

· Battery capacity is set to 80%
· Current Odometer reading are stored
· Stored battery statistics (current, voltage, battery charge level) are deleted
· Stored temperature statistics are deleted

The following late-model vehicles require battery registration:

· 2002 and newer 7-Series E65/E66 chassis
· 2003 and newer 6-Series E54/E63 chassis
· 2004 and newer 5-Series E60/E61 chassis
· 2006 and newer 3-Series E90/E91/E92/E93 chassis
· 2007 and newer X5 E70 chassis
· 2008 and newer X6 E71 chassis

Don’t gamble, always have a new battery registered after installation at a BMW-qualified shop- it’s not expensive and will ensure a properly operating electrical system.

All dealers and SOME Indy's will have the equipment and the training to properly register your vehicle’s battery to factory specs, ensuring that manufacturer warranty requirements have been met.
Edit/Delete Message

You should really have it done. It could save you a $1,000 alternator repair and stop many electrical gremlins that could arise from happening. It's NOT snake oil.

I've heard prices from dealers anywhere from (I will get mine done for free by asking nicely) $60 to $200 to register the battery and Indy shops anywhere from $21-75.

It's worth it for the piece of mind that everything is correct on the car.

[WreckerX5d]

Just letting you know, the Sears battery is actually a group size 49, NOT 48. The 48 is much smaller than the 49. There are a few batteries in the Sears Auto system that has them as the wrong group size. They also charge 29.99 to install and won't register the battery (I used to work there).

The PepBoys should also be a 49 as well, since battery group sizes are actually standardized.

[Geaff500]

Originally Posted by MonkUSMC

Just letting you know, the Sears battery is actually a group size 49, NOT 48. The 48 is much smaller than the 49. There are a few batteries in the Sears Auto system that has them as the wrong group size. They also charge 29.99 to install and won't register the battery (I used to work there).

The PepBoys should also be a 49 as well, since battery group sizes are actually standardized.

Thank you!!! Like I said in my post I wasn't sure about these, I didn't really check up on them to make SURE they were the right ones.

Helpful stuff like this can save people 4+ hours of leg work and a TON of money

[Saintor]

Originally Posted by Geaff500

DO NOT GET THE H8 BATTERY FROM WAL-MART ALTHOUGH THE CCA IS BETTER THAN OEM AT 900CCA THE AH ON THIS BATTERY IS ONLY 80 WHICH IS NOT ENOUGH FOR OUR CARS!!!!

Well I got the 94R from Walmart Canada, rated at 85Ah.
http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/everstar...x-94r/10061196

125$ after core return. Has been running like a champ for 6 months, no code, nothing. Many reported using it withough any issue as well. I registered it for free (but a OBD cable) with my laptop using THIS.

80Ah can be all right and it is even listed at realoem.com (70-90Ah).

[John 070]

So much resistance to OEM. If something were wrong with OEM, I would understand. But the fact is there are people with MY 2006 E90s, whose cars were manufactured in 2005, still driving on the original battery.

My experience with aftermarket batteries, top of the line, with specs that far exceed what came with the car, in my Nissan, is that they have all failed during the warranty period (between 3-4 yrs.). If this happens in your BMW, when the OEM is $280 installed, I don't see that $50-$100 you save by going aftermarket, as any savings at all.

This is just one topic where the 2 sides will never see eye-to-eye.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by Geaff500

If you like you can also replace the battery with and AGM battery (especially if you already have an AGM battery) The quickest way to tell if your current battery is black it is an AGM battery if it is white it is a FLA battery.

Why? My understanding is the vehicle has to be recoded, not the battery registered, when you make such a change.

If the OEM lead acid lasts 6+ yrs., what is to be gained?

My brother's RAM has AGM standard (2 of them), what's so cool about it? Nobody opens your trunk, pulls the cover off, to see if you have a white or black battery, and says you're cool when it's black.

[Geaff500]

Originally Posted by John 070

Why? My understanding is the vehicle has to be recoded, not the battery registered, when you make such a change.

If the OEM lead acid lasts 6+ yrs., what is to be gained?

My brother's RAM has AGM standard (2 of them), what's so cool about it? Nobody opens your trunk, pulls the cover off, to see if you have a white or black battery, and says you're cool when it's black.

I addressed the recording here at the bottom of this post:
"Not only you will need to register the battery but if you change the type i.e going to AGM, you need to code the vehicle to tell it it'n an AGM battery instead. That may increase the overall cost as dealer may charge you extra for coding."

The why part is that AGM's are supposed to be better, you can read up and decide for yourself if they really are. I decided NOT to go the AGM route this part of the writeup was for people who WANTED to go the AGM route so I addressed that for them to save them a lot of time.

[Geaff500]

Originally Posted by John 070

So much resistance to OEM. If something were wrong with OEM, I would understand. But the fact is there are people with MY 2006 E90s, whose cars were manufactured in 2005, still driving on the original battery.

My experience with aftermarket batteries, top of the line, with specs that far exceed what came with the car, in my Nissan, is that they have all failed during the warranty period (between 3-4 yrs.). If this happens in your BMW, when the OEM is $280 installed, I don't see that $50-$100 you save by going aftermarket, as any savings at all.

This is just one topic where the 2 sides will never see eye-to-eye.

It's not about resistance to OEM for me it was about saving money. I paid $156 total with tax to get a new battery with BETTER specs than my old OEM battery and got it registered for free.

My dealer wanted $500 to replace battery, install, and register. I saved $344 with 4 hours of research. That is $86 an hour after taxes, I sure as FUCK don't make that!!!

This write up was for people looking to save money and like I said at the beginning "This IS kind of a pain but if you want to save money and get it done correctly THIS is the way to do it."

If you want to spend the money and take it to the dealer THAT'S FINE (I really don't give a flying fuck!!!), like I said this way IS A PAIN but this write up was intended to save people time and money.

If you don't like it and want to go OEM that's cool bro, just don't soil my post that took a great deal of time to put together with jerk comments.

[Saintor]

Originally Posted by John 070

So much resistance to OEM. If something were wrong with OEM, I would understand. But the fact is there are people with MY 2006 E90s, whose cars were manufactured in 2005, still driving on the original battery.

My experience with aftermarket batteries, top of the line, with specs that far exceed what came with the car, in my Nissan, is that they have all failed during the warranty period (between 3-4 yrs.). If this happens in your BMW, when the OEM is $280 installed, I don't see that $50-$100 you save by going aftermarket, as any savings at all.

This is just one topic where the 2 sides will never see eye-to-eye.

That's assuming that OEM batteries have some magic in them. I don't think that they are any different from the mainstream ones.

[Geaff500]

Originally Posted by John 070

If this happens in your BMW, when the OEM is $280 installed, I don't see that $50-$100 you save by going aftermarket, as any savings at all.
.

Also where the hell is a battery replacement, install and register the battery only $280???? That's ridiculously low!!!

The replacement battery alone is over $300 list for OEM

My dealer wanted $500......the lowest I heard ever is $399 and the highest I have heard through all of my research is $900.

[Surly73]

Originally Posted by John 070

So much resistance to OEM. If something were wrong with OEM, I would understand. But the fact is there are people with MY 2006 E90s, whose cars were manufactured in 2005, still driving on the original battery.

Well, unless you travel to Germany to go to a dealer you aren't getting the same battery you praise so highly. North American network batteries aren't the same thing. At one point they were all made by Douglas battery, which was "meh". I believe Douglas' OEM line was bought by Deka in the last couple of years, though, which are my current favourite.

If nothing else, there's price. If it doesn't last twice as long, why spend twice as much?

[El Cheapo Loco]

Originally Posted by Geaff500

Also where the hell is a battery replacement, install and register the battery only $280???? That's ridiculously low!!!

The replacement battery alone is over $300 list for OEM

My dealer wanted $500......the lowest I heard ever is $399 and the highest I have heard through all of my research is $900.

I got OEM installed and registered for $250. You just need to find an honest Indy. Time with my kids is far more valuable than spending it on DIY.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by elcheapoloco

I got OEM installed and registered for $250. You just need to find an honest Indy. Time with my kids is far more valuable than spending it on DIY.

$250 is in the ballpark, I paid $280 at my dealership, and I called a total of 3. Two others wanted $350.

I'm not saying that no dealers would say $500, but someone who would pay that must not like to shop around.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by Geaff500

Also where the hell is a battery replacement, install and register the battery only $280???? That's ridiculously low!!!

The replacement battery alone is over $300 list for OEM

My dealer wanted $500......the lowest I heard ever is $399 and the highest I have heard through all of my research is $900.

The battery was $199 LIST, it's not over $300. Some dealerships actually charge over list price for parts, not kidding around. That's why a person has to shop around.

[John 070]

Originally Posted by Saintor

That's assuming that OEM batteries have some magic in them. I don't think that they are any different from the mainstream ones.

They're not magic, just that BMW does not want to have to replace them under the 4 yr./50k warranty. Our aunt's 330i has the original battery and it's an '06 purchased in '05.

I've bought top of the line Sears, and Advance Auto, and both failed in 3 yrs. One of them was a free replacement, but what good is that? It shows it doesn't meet the specs on the casing.

[John 070]

The price has gone up, but list is $204.99. Most dealerships take off 15% just because you ask.

battery 720 cca, Exide
PARTS: Order by description.
MSRP Core ? Save Online Price
$204.99 $0.00 $41.00 $163.99

[Geaff500]

Originally Posted by John 070

The price has gone up, but list is $204.99. Most dealerships take off 15% just because you ask.

battery 720 cca, Exide
PARTS: Order by description.
MSRP Core ? Save Online Price
$204.99 $0.00 $41.00 $163.99

We are talking about different batteries:

Old Battery: If this is your old battery
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 110AH 850A 1 61216901815 ENDED
01 Battery from Exide (Warranty Only) 110AH 850A 1 61217591085 ENDED

These were made by exide but aren't produced anymore, if I go to a dealer what they install now for a battery replacement is the 90AH AGM battery, install, code the car for an AGM battery, and register the battery

I have two dealerships within 60 miles of me (I live NEPA) and the prices were $550 at one and $500 at the other.

There are no good Indys that even heard of battery registry let alone do it within 80 miles of me.

It WAS worth it for me to do this, I saved $344 doing it this way unless I wanted to travel 160 miles round trip to have my battery replaced

If you only had a FLA 90AH and the dealer will do it for $250 or $280 I wouldn't have even bothered.

It's not that I didn't shop around (I did it's not like I set out to want to have to fuck around for 4 hours to figure this out)there are 2 dealers that have a strangle hold around here and NO Indys that could register the battery

In my specific case it WAS completely worth it

[gamecockchief]

I went to Walmart to get my replacement 94R battery and it was smaller than the factory? Is the 94R the right battery? Sorry newbie

[gamecockchief]

Sorry i have a 2007 328i sport