[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

What?

12.2 -12.9 is a RICHER A/F ratio then 13.2/13.0? Are you sure you don't have those number mixed up? Furthermore, the M5X had the same reaction to ignition adjustments - they could add a lot of timing.

~12.2 is the stock value for the last cell. I leaned that out to 12.9. Then I richened up the entire map to 13.0 (from 13.5), which reduced power. I'm sure I don't have them mixed up, thanks.

I added a 2-4 degrees of timing, I didn't try to go higher. maybe I can, but I'd want to log knock control to be sure it wasn't pulling timing.

You tweaked valvetiming? (Vanos) You stated that you didn't?

I had already adjusted it (retarded intake/advanced exhaust), what I didn't have time to do was to isolate those adjustments by themselves.

You'll probably find the Vanos maps are pretty decent, you might want to retard the intake cam to the max in the higher RPM ranges as well.

I've done that. I think there is room for improvement. Otherwise, the canned tunes wouldn't be able to do much. Intake vanos is basically already maxed out stock, all you can do is retard it at lower RPMs. There's lots of adjustment room left in exhaust, although it makes a smaller difference.

I'm not knocking your work and I hope this works out for you, but your investment is hardly $0 at this point and your still behind the 12 or so whp offered by the "overpriced canned tunes" out there.

Well, I already had the hardware for flashing the DME (that's been paid for many times already from doing other DMEs), and the software was free.. I guess I paid for dyno time, but so did everyone else who had theirs on a dyno after the $700 tune.

I looked at a lot of charts, it looks like I'm right in there with everyone else. was AA's 233whp corrected or uncorrected? it doesn't say. also, it's an experimental tune, and the car is bone stock (I haven't even removed the carbon filter). I'm not finished yet. You're not knocking, but you sure are defensive.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by David0ff

also, 12.x:1 is richer than 13.x:1
not sure I understand when you say when you enriched it to 13.2/13.0

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

He's mixing up his terms, but he added fuel and the car made power.

you guys misunderstood. the last cell in the lambda target map was 12.2 stock. I leaned that out to 12.9, and left the rest alone (13.53). that was the 232whp run.

then, I richened the entire map to 13.0 to see what it would do, and I lost power (almost back to stock). There was no gain from extra fuel. Hell, the 328 and 325 run 15:1 until up to like 5000rpm.

I'm going to change the entire map to 13.53. I think the really rich last cell is related to the soft rev limit.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Then you haven't been looking.

I'm not sure why you've bombed my thread with irrelevant dynos (reverse calculated BHP? OK). I never even made a comparison to anyone else's tunes. I absolutely did gain HP/tq over the stock tune and I did it without an expensive canned tune. what's the issue here?

if we want to play that game, I'm going to say the drivetrain loss is 25% (pulled from my ass). that means I put down 298bhp.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by David0ff

great work hass!
I wanted to ask you
as I have a 2008 2.5L n52, cuts off at 6500, would i be able to straight dump a 330 map ( all maps) on my MSV80 and tweak from there?

not exactly a straight dump (there are architectural changes and the maps are all in way different locations) but many of them can be copied over. I know enough now that I can easily build an MSV80 XDF and copy the 330i maps, it'll just take time to complete. I want to finish my MSV70 XDF first as that would be the basis, then all I have to do is change the target addresses of each map to make an MSV80 file.

[David0ff]

hass you are kicking major ass bro!
I get what you are trying to do as i hate black box tuning, i want to tweak everything and need access to all parameters.
before bmws i tuned rx7 (fd`s) for years, so i know my way around tuning.
I wish I could help you with some stuff but for now I am on the sidelines until I can get access to my DME and its files.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

~12.2 is the stock value for the last cell. I leaned that out to 12.9. Then I richened up the entire map to 13.0 (from 13.5), which reduced power. I'm sure I don't have them mixed up, thanks.



I had already adjusted it (retarded intake/advanced exhaust), what I didn't have time to do was to isolate those adjustments by themselves.



I've done that. I think there is room for improvement. Otherwise, the canned tunes wouldn't be able to do much. Intake vanos is basically already maxed out stock, all you can do is retard it at lower RPMs. There's lots of adjustment room left in exhaust, although it makes a smaller difference.



Well, I already had the hardware for flashing the DME (that's been paid for many times already from doing other DMEs), and the software was free.. I guess I paid for dyno time, but so did everyone else who had theirs on a dyno after the $700 tune.

I looked at a lot of charts, it looks like I'm right in there with everyone else. was AA's 233whp corrected or uncorrected? it doesn't say. also, it's an experimental tune, and the car is bone stock (I haven't even removed the carbon filter). I'm not finished yet. You're not knocking, but you sure are defensive.

All dynos I've seen/posted are STD/SAE. No one uses Uncorrected numbers, nor should they. The 233whp 3stage car was done on a Dynojet in North Carolina with SAE corrected numbers- Active Auto is in Miami and uses a Mustang dyno.

It's not magic, there is no secret buttons to push - But I'm not buying a product that isn't supported (OFT) nor am I going to self tune. For me personally, an Off the shelf option is best.

I'm a HUGE fan of custom tuning, it's just not that cost effective and isn't the right answer for everyone.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I'm not sure why you've bombed my thread with irrelevant dynos (reverse calculated BHP? OK). I never even made a comparison to anyone else's tunes. I absolutely did gain HP/tq over the stock tune and I did it without an expensive canned tune. what's the issue here?

if we want to play that game, I'm going to say the drivetrain loss is 25% (pulled from my ass). that means I put down 298bhp.

I didn't quote you - try reading that again. Mecbain (French Canadian) incorrectly stated that "I haven't see again gain over 10whp on tune alone" Easily proved false by looking for 2 minutes at the dyno thread.

You're posting things and wanting us to interpret your intentions. How would we know you were specifically speaking of the last cell?

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by mecbain

I think it's pretty much the other way around, frankly I've tried having an intelligent discussion with you, however with no luck, as you pick and chose what serves your arguments best from what people are writing, rather than taking the whole facts into account, you also take one particular case and generalize it, etc...

I'm willing even to deal with someone that seems to be having reading comprehension issues or is just plain "ignorant" right? The problem is that ignorance never comes alone, it's often accompanied by things as arrogance, thinking one is always right, and that I cannot stand.

It's not what you say that matters being wrong or right (as you can't be always either one of them), it's how you say it and you have an attitude issue, normally I would just block a user like you so my reading doesn't get polluted unfortunately I just can't do it on this forum.

Now how about we get back on topic.

Originally Posted by mecbain

Idiot, doesn't mean that I live in Montreal, I'm necessarily "French Canadian" haha, what that has to do with anything?

Not sure if I should reply to your posted dyno's as this will probably get into an endless argument lol.

Originally Posted by mecbain

Good for you, that's not the case for everyone and others would rather encourage people like hashmachine rather than the other way around, you can have good comments or constructive ones, your arrogance isn't welcomed

The year I've been on this forum, I've only had ONE problem with one member and that's you. You're everything you say you hate and don't even realize it. You should be thanking me for attempting to enlighten you and save you from making more erroneous comments in the future. Let's not muck up this thread with personal issues, you can PM me if you have more to say.

[David0ff]

the most important thing to take from all this is that hass when dynoed against his stock tune was able to show gains, does not matter if the numbers, corrected or no SAE or what ever the fuk, are accurate to the HP, all that matters is there is a difference and for a first attempt its pretty significant.

If we all worked together and gave intelligent input and support then we may be able optimize this tune and help each other out and everyone wins.

[bimmerquick43321]

Originally Posted by David0ff

the most important thing to take from all this is that hass when dynoed against his stock tune was able to show gains, does not matter if the numbers, corrected or no SAE or what ever the fuk, are accurate to the HP, all that matters is there is a difference and for a first attempt its pretty significant.

If we all worked together and gave intelligent input and support then we may be able optimize this tune and help each other out and everyone wins.

Bingo and in my case I actually felt an improvement (where we see the gain on the dyno chart) when compared to the open flash tune, so it can't be that bad.

[bimmerquick43321]

maybe next time also trying to reset the adaptations between runs? I'm curious how much of a change that would make.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

All dynos I've seen/posted are STD/SAE. No one uses Uncorrected numbers, nor should they. The 233whp 3stage car was done on a Dynojet in North Carolina with SAE corrected numbers- Active Auto is in Miami and uses a Mustang dyno.

It's not magic, there is no secret buttons to push - But I'm not buying a product that isn't supported (OFT) nor am I going to self tune. For me personally, an Off the shelf option is best.

I'm a HUGE fan of custom tuning, it's just not that cost effective and isn't the right answer for everyone.

again, the point was to show gains vs the stock tune, which I accomplished. why does it matter? I never drew any comparisons with anyone else's tune. that was all you.

I saw lots of dynos in your thread that were uncorrected. but again, I wasn't trying to make a comparison.

I never said custom tuning is for everyone, I definitely know it isn't, but it hasn't been an option for anyone. I want to change that.

also, I have no involvement in OFT. I'm not selling anything. what's your beef?

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

I didn't quote you - try reading that again. Mecbain (French Canadian) incorrectly stated that "I haven't see again gain over 10whp on tune alone" Easily proved false by looking for 2 minutes at the dyno thread.

You're posting things and wanting us to interpret your intentions. How would we know you were specifically speaking of the last cell?

Uh, because that's exactly what I said!

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

on that run it was basically the stock A/F curve except I leaned out the last cell a bit (~12.2 to 12.9).

I don't mind the discussion, but if you're going to slate people for being a certain ethnicity (which has nothing to do with anything), just stay out of my thread.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by mecbain

maybe next time also trying to reset the adaptations between runs? I'm curious how much of a change that would make.

if anything, adaptations gain power. I did 2-4 pulls per change, and the last pull was always the best.

[DickBlisken]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I don't mind the discussion, but if you're going to slate people for being a certain ethnicity (which has nothing to do with anything), just stay out of my thread.

+1

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by mecbain

You are right about one thing, I'll be twice as arrogant and the a hole with people that are with me. For the moment the only thing you taught me is that I have more time than I thought to lose it arguing over the internet.

My point was and this goes beyond you, is that we should rather encourage with positive comments and give constructive feedback without being arrogant about it, I don't think it's that hard right?

Originally Posted by mecbain

Bingo and in my case I actually felt an improvement (where we see the gain on the dyno chart) when compared to the open flash tune, so it can't be that bad.

Originally Posted by mecbain

maybe next time also trying to reset the adaptations between runs? I'm curious how much of a change that would make.

I'm right about a lot apparently - You're an annoying crabby fuck. This is the third thread I've witnessed your annoying behavior and inability to be civil. I thought Canadians we supposed to be polite?
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964717

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1017633&page=5

(I'm too lazy to find the link where you argued with me about surface area of a filter element. Seriously)

You can't admit when you're wrong, or ever address people in a polite manner, instead it's confrontation ALL the time. This is AFTER I went out of my way to find out where Shiv was most active to get you help on the OFT

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=oft&page=33

I'm sure you forgot that one.

And what have you done this whole time? Complain, complain, attack and just be disrespectful. How many dynos have you done? How much work have YOU put in for anyone but yourself in this community? I'm a lot of things, but I'm not a selfish, stuck up, annoying prick. Eat a dick.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

I'm right about a lot apparently - You're an annoying crabby fuck. This is the third thread I've witnessed your annoying behavior and inability to be civil. I thought Canadians we supposed to be polite?
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=964717

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...1017633&page=5

(I'm too lazy to find the link where you argued with me about surface area of a filter element. Seriously)

You can't admit when you're wrong, or ever address people in a polite manner, instead it's confrontation ALL the time. This is AFTER I went out of my way to find out where Shiv was most active to get you help on the OFT

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ht=oft&page=33

I'm sure you forgot that one.

And what have you done this whole time? Complain, complain, attack and just be disrespectful. How many dynos have you done? How much work have YOU put in for anyone but yourself in this community? I'm a lot of things, but I'm not a selfish, stuck up, annoying prick. Eat a dick.

take it to PM. this is a thread about MSV70, not a dick measuring contest. thanks.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

again, the point was to show gains vs the stock tune, which I accomplished. why does it matter? I never drew any comparisons with anyone else's tune. that was all you.

I saw lots of dynos in your thread that were uncorrected. but again, I wasn't trying to make a comparison.

I never said custom tuning is for everyone, I definitely know it isn't, but it hasn't been an option for anyone. I want to change that.

also, I have no involvement in OFT. I'm not selling anything. what's your beef?



Uh, because that's exactly what I said!



I don't mind the discussion, but if you're going to slate people for being a certain ethnicity (which has nothing to do with anything), just stay out of my thread.

So it's NOT ok to draw comparisons with what your doing and what exist? Don't think I don't remember who you are from E46fantics - I was VERY active there, and I was equally as critical of EVERY tune/tuner that claimed to have the secret formula. I'm sorry you feel like I'm unfairly targeting you and attacking you by saying "have you tried retarding the intake cam" or saying things like "the ignition maps seem to be similar to the M54 where it doesn't seem to be phased by changes." Right. Or by me attempting to send my stock 328i file to you.

I'm such an asshole.

[hassmaschine]

you're the one attacking people and calling names, dude. chill. if you've got something constructive to add, I'm all ears.

it's like I'm a threat to you or something. I don't get it.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

you're the one attacking people and calling names, dude. chill. if you've got something constructive to add, I'm all ears.

it's like I'm a threat to you or something. I don't get it.

Wtf are you talking about? Know what, I quit.

[David0ff]

guys lets just restart from scratch and work together

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Wtf are you talking about? Know what, I quit.

uh, I don't know, go read your last couple posts? you don't like mecbain, fine. it has nothing to do with me or my thread. leave me out of it.

I won't be upset if you want to discuss technical topics, I promise.

[hassmaschine]

back to the topic at hand - I've compliled the hex data for the error codes in MSV70 and MSV80 with descriptions into an excel spreadsheet, which is attached. just remove the .zip extension to open it.

MSV80 is slightly different (more error codes, some bytes swapped, etc), but basically uses the same pattern. on MSV80, you would change the water pump error type codes from 11 to 56 to trigger the SES.

I don't have all the descriptions and there were a couple that I had conflicting information on. I'd like to get a dump from Tool32 of the actual error codes. if you have more descriptions and can fill in holes feel free to modify and re-upload the spreadsheet.

you can also do silly stuff like change what engine values are reported when the error code is read in INPA (freeze frames). I don't know what the data section does, and MSV80 has a second byte in the error type code that I don't know the purpose of.

Edit: I forgot to talk about deleting error codes. traditionally on Siemens DMEs you simply zero out the data or the entire line. I'm not sure what works on MSV70/MSV80. I couldn't make 2FD0 go away by zeroing the line or the type code (a code would pop up still, but it would be blank), but that might work on other errors.

At the very least, you can make the MIL/SES light go away quite easily for error codes related to the primary or secondary cats (and anything else) by simply changing the type code to one that doesn't trigger the light. I think changing them to 01 on MSV70 or 11 on MSV80 will do the trick.