[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Vibration just under acceleration is almost always an issue with the drivetrain, such as a worn flex disc (giubo), worn center support bearing, worn u-joints, or worn axles. How exactly did you check the giubo and center support bearing? Was it just visual? To properly check the center support bearing and see if the rubber is still good, you'd have to remove the exhaust. While you're in there it might be worth removing the driveshaft completely too and confirming that the u-joints are still good and are not sloppy or binding.

Efthreeoh had an old post I found while searching driveline issues; if I remember correctly he ended up replacing the driveshaft and still had the vibration, later finding out that it was the dual mass flywheel causing the issue. But that's only for the manual transmission.

Let me clarify... you are remembering correctly, but slightly out of order. I chased two separate drivetrain vibration issues at two separate times and pretty far apart in mileage.

The first was a high RPM vibration (5,000 to 6,000 rpm), which eventually traced to the flywheel. In chasing the vibration, which started just before 241,000, I started with the driveshaft center bearing and guibo. That didn't fix it. I next replaced the harmonic balancer; again, not the solution. I replaced the rear trans mounts and... nope not it either. I finally discovered through internet research, the dual-mass flywheel can break. At 293,000 I replaced the clutch and flywheel, which solved the vibration problem. IMO people replace bushing on these cars way too early. The guibo and trans mounts were still in good shape when I replaced them.

The second vibration issue came up at 324,000 miles. It was a high road speed humming noise felt in the center of the car mostly and it was speed dependent rather than RPM dependent. I started chasing this one from the outside in with replacement of the rear wheel bearings first. That didn't solve it, so I figured with the high mileage, the differential was finally toast. I found a good used unit from a 138i (IIRC) with just 42,000 miles on it. I swapped the diff in and still had the vibration. While the diff was out I looked at the driveshaft and it seemed the center bearing was moving around in its mount. Once the diff was in and didn't solve the problem, I figured the driveshaft was the only thing left. At the high miles I decided that just replacing the center bearing again was at some risk since the u-joints could be suspect as well. A rebuilt driveshaft is only about $90 more than the part cost of the center bearing, so I just replaced the entire driveshaft. The car has been smooth as silk since. Replacing the driveshaft center bearing is not an easy task. Special tools are needed to remove and install it. It presses on the shaft. I don't have a press so I improvised, which probably slightly damaged the bearing when I installed it at 241,000 miles.

I just wanted to clarify because chasing driveline vibrations in these cars can be frustrating. Road speed related vibrations are wheel, bearings, or driveshaft related. RPM related vibrations are flywheel (high rpm) or possibly engine mount related (low speed).

I now have a diff that I may have rebuilt and converted to a 3.73 limited slip

[LUIZ_1312]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Vibration just under acceleration is almost always an issue with the drivetrain, such as a worn flex disc (giubo), worn center support bearing, worn u-joints, or worn axles. How exactly did you check the giubo and center support bearing? Was it just visual? To properly check the center support bearing and see if the rubber is still good, you'd have to remove the exhaust. While you're in there it might be worth removing the driveshaft completely too and confirming that the u-joints are still good and are not sloppy or binding.

Efthreeoh had an old post I found while searching driveline issues; if I remember correctly he ended up replacing the driveshaft and still had the vibration, later finding out that it was the dual mass flywheel causing the issue. But that's only for the manual transmission.

lowrydr310 i removed the drive shaft and quibo. there in good condition also the center support. ive been driving around in the car and like you had mentioned it only does the vibration when in 2nd-3rd gear @ 40 to 60 mph, but when im using the manual mode it barly vibrates, I've looked online and found somthing about the Vibration damper/absorber that sits at the far end of the driveshaft. i aslo noticed that when it vibrates i start to feel it in the front and then as i keep driving i feel it in the back idk its starting to become a pain...that last sentence sounds soo wrong jajaja

[DontBeApompousBore]

Originally Posted by thormx11

Sorry for the long first post but..

I just purchased my first BMW. It is a 2008 328I e90 with 156k miles. I am a mechanic, but never really worked on foreign cars. I got a deal on the car, as the previous owners mechanic told them the car needed a new differential, at the cost of $4800. They then just parked the car in the garage for 4-5 years.

The car runs & drives great when cold, it had new Bridgestone tires mounted & balanced right before it was parked (I believe the issue was present before the new tires) but after 5-10 minutes of driving, the car starts to get a vibration under normal acceleration. If you give it heavy throttle it doesn't seem to vibrate. The vibration seems to be in the body, although you can slightly feel it in the wheel it seems. Maybe that is because the body is shaking so bad that it also vibrates the wheel. It shifts great, and the vibration seems to continue through all the gears. It is like you are driving on the rumble strips.

I have searched lots of forums online, and this seems to be kind of a common issue. None of the stories I have read had anyone say the differential was the problem, most seemed to be the rubber driveshaft coupler (guibo) or the axles. The first thing I did was changed the differential fluid. The old fluid looked pretty good, no metal shavings or burnt smell. I then filled it back up with Mobil 1 75w90 fluid. No change to the vibration (was fine while the car was cold, but after a few minutes of driving it came back.) Then I changed the guibo out with a Dorman replacement from Advance Auto. The old one had some very small cracks if you bent it with your hands, but was not frayed or badly cracked as most people described. After that, it kind of feels like the vibration got a little better, but is still very noticeable. I only drove the car about 20 minutes after changing it.

I also cut a clamp off the right rear inner axle boot to look at the grease, but there was no signs of water/moisture like people have described in the forums I have read.

I have raised the car on a hoist while in our shop, but cannot replicate the vibration in the air. The differential does make some noise, but I really can't get the vibration to happen in the air.

I am starting to think it may be the differential, but would like to make sure before spending the time and money on one. I can get a used differential with a 6 month warranty for about $300 delivered, not sure what kind of work is involved in changing it though.

Same here. Stock 328i RWD 2009 with a severe shudder under load when engine is warm. Does not do it when cold. So many people with this problem yet BMW acts like I'm the only...

That and famous BMW parasitic draw ruin this car which is otherwise 9/10 condition.

I am not looking to fix this myself but rather would like to know if someone else has been successful in nailing down what the culprit is. Lots of talk on lots of sites about this but zero resolution (just a lot of pompous bores attacking the poster for not being a a DIY mechanic... That's what drives people away from forums).

Anyhow, thanks for any ressolution stories!

[Tre']

I took my car to a shop the other day to have my vibration diagnosed. They came back with a $5000 estimate of "things that might fix it" that included engine/transmission mounts, guibo, control arm bushings, etc. I don't want to just throw money at this car hoping that "might fix the vibration". The thing that got me was, they didn't even check the u-joints or center support bearing because "we have to remove the heat shield". Seems like that would have been two of the main things to check.

[DontBeApompousBore]

Originally Posted by Tre'

I took my car to a shop the other day to have my vibration diagnosed. They came back with a $5000 estimate of "things that might fix it" that included engine/transmission mounts, guibo, control arm bushings, etc. I don't want to just throw money at this car hoping that "might fix the vibration". The thing that got me was, they didn't even check the u-joints or center support bearing because "we have to remove the heat shield". Seems like that would have been two of the main things to check.

They tried to pull that with me too. Does bmw not have a database of issues and solutions? Their way, you may as well sell it..

[pjr123456]

Has anyone been able to find the fix to this problem. I have an 08 328xi doing the same thing. When it's really warm the shake is really bad, almost as if a tire is loose. Any help is appreciated. Mounts, axles, and tires all appear ok and no check engine lights.

[lab_rat]

I haven't had this issue personally, but I believe I read about vibrations during acceleration and/or braking that were caused by worn/leaking bushings on the front control arms.

[DontBeApompousBore]

SOLUTION (for me anyway)...

Garage put some Dr. Tranny or something similar.... Has never shuddered again and it had been doing it for years.

[Tre']

So, I took my car to one shop that said my vibration was most likely caused by worn motor and transmission mounts. I ordered those and had them replaced only to find the vibration was still there. Took the car back to the shop and after doing some research, they supposedly reflashed/reset the transmission. Whatever they did seems to have taken care of my vibration issues.

[JLJackson1983]

The Bentley Manual says:

A shudder or vibration can be felt under light acceleration or when
driving at constant low speeds. This can be most noticeable
in the 1700-2200 rpm range while in 3rd through 6th gears. No faults I
are stored in the EGS module.

Changes in the frictional properties of the automatic transmission
fluid over time can lead to slipping of the torque converter lock-up
clutch.

BMW's recommended procedure is to drain the transmission fluid
and add BMW special transmission fluid additive
part number 83222161756 while refilling the transmission with new I
Dexron lrl fluid. After refilling perform transmission adaptation drive
using a BMW scan tool.
Further information can be found in BMW service bulletin SIB 24 04
13 (dated January 2014).

[850CSi]

Just tagging this thread for future reference. I've done flywheel, motor & trans mounts, and still have some roughness/vibration under heavier acceleration.

My suspension is entirely original after 170k so that might be an issue.

[850CSi]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

. A rebuilt driveshaft is only about $90 more than the part cost of the center bearing, so I just replaced the entire driveshaft. The car has been smooth as silk since. Replacing the driveshaft center bearing is not an easy task. Special tools are needed to remove and install it. It presses on the shaft. I don't have a press so I improvised, which probably slightly damaged the bearing when I installed it at 241,000 miles.

Do you mind sharing where you sourced a rebuilt driveshaft?

My symptoms are basically:
1) roughness/vibration when accelerating quickly
2) roughness when cruising at highway speeds under any sort of load (completely disappears if I get off the gas/clutch is disengaged/go into neutral/etc)

Seems to me to be 100% driveline related. And I’m thinking my likely culprits are transmission, driveshaft, or diff.
(I should’ve taken a closer look at my driveshaft bearing when I dropped the transmission...)

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by 850CSi

Do you mind sharing where you sourced a rebuilt driveshaft?

My symptoms are basically:
1) roughness/vibration when accelerating quickly
2) roughness when cruising at highway speeds under any sort of load (completely disappears if I get off the gas/clutch is disengaged/go into neutral/etc)

Seems to me to be 100% driveline related. And I’m thinking my likely culprits are transmission, driveshaft, or diff.
(I should’ve taken a closer look at my driveshaft bearing when I dropped the transmission...)

Driveshaft Specialists of Texas

[850CSi]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Driveshaft Specialists of Texas

Ah thanks for that. Looks like I can get a rebuilt drive shaft for $400 all in after sending in the core. Seems pretty reasonable and maybe worth a shot if I can rule out some other issues...

Did you second vibration at speed (that I understand was resolved by replacing the driveshaft) persist when you got off the throttle/coasted without applying any power?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by 850CSi

Ah thanks for that. Looks like I can get a rebuilt drive shaft for $400 all in after sending in the core. Seems pretty reasonable and maybe worth a shot if I can rule out some other issues...

Did you second vibration at speed (that I understand was resolved by replacing the driveshaft) persist when you got off the throttle/coasted without applying any power?

I'm trying to remember since it was a few years ago, but what I remember was a high-speed vibration (low octave moan) that I could feel in the seat and center consol. Low speeds were fine, just highway speeds either on or off throttle. I should have realized it was the driveshaft and most likely just the center bearing, but I had replaced the center bearing less than 60,000 or so miles before, so I ruled it out. I did discover when swapping the driveshafts the old center bearing was moving up and down in its rubber mount at the slow speed I could turn the shaft by hand (using one of the rear wheels). But it was well over 300,000 miles on the driveshaft so I just decided to replace it, plus I had the new driveshaft in hand. The runout spec for the U-joints is .004", which is impossible to see with the naked eye and would require metrology tools to measure.

It's a bitch trying to chase down vibrations in the E90. The car is so smooth that any vibration is annoying. Good luck with it. BMW driveshafts do wear out.

[DgjoX6M2016]

I chased down a vibration just like this and have it about 90% resolved.

Vibration ONLY under loads. Not an unloaded rolling vibration.

Biggest positive impact was transmission fluid swap plus Dr Shudder additive (4oz.)

I also did flex disk, CSB and control arms. Little to no benefit with those.

Driveshaft was perfect at 140k miles. No play at all.

I believe you have torque converter shudder, aka shitty old ATF that has lost all its friction properties.

I am going to swap fluid one more time, which will make it 3x and 4 Dr Shudder. That will be as good as it gets at 155k.

Good luck!

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by DgjoX6M2016

I chased down a vibration just like this and have it about 90% resolved.

Vibration ONLY under loads. Not an unloaded rolling vibration.

Biggest positive impact was transmission fluid swap plus Dr Shudder additive (4oz.)

I also did flex disk, CSB and control arms. Little to no benefit with those.

Driveshaft was perfect at 140k miles. No play at all.

I believe you have torque converter shudder, aka shitty old ATF that has lost all its friction properties.

I am going to swap fluid one more time, which will make it 3x and 4 Dr Shudder. That will be as good as it gets at 155k.

Good luck!

850CSI has a manual transmission.

[335i_pnw]

I have the same issue. Checked my diff and the bushings are pretty shot, and when i took off my heat shield and noticed a the driveshaft balance weight flew off. I get crazy vibration about 40 mph+. What exactly am I gonna need to do to fix this issue?

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by DontBeApompousBore

Same here. Stock 328i RWD 2009 with a severe shudder under load when engine is warm. Does not do it when cold. So many people with this problem yet BMW acts like I'm the only...

That and famous BMW parasitic draw ruin this car which is otherwise 9/10 condition.

I am not looking to fix this myself but rather would like to know if someone else has been successful in nailing down what the culprit is. Lots of talk on lots of sites about this but zero resolution (just a lot of pompous bores attacking the poster for not being a a DIY mechanic... That's what drives people away from forums).

Anyhow, thanks for any ressolution stories!

What parasitic draw? What symptoms make you think it is thay?

[JJT211]

BUMP

Thanks to EVERYONE in this thread!!

I had same exact symptoms (shudder/vibration during acceleration when warm) and turned out to just be old Tranny fluid. Drained and refilled and no more vibrations. 2009 e92 328i w/ GM Transmission

I also took a fluid sample to send off to Blackstone labs to see what this miracle lifetime fluid is all about. Ill post results

[Tre']

^ Same here, I think/hope. I had a vibration/shudder for years. I ran over something in the road a few weeks ago and dented my transmission pan. Put in a new pan, filter and fluid, and haven't felt any vibrations since. Seems like all is well now.

[BMWK415]

Originally Posted by thormx11

Sorry for the long first post but..

I just purchased my first BMW. It is a 2008 328I e90 with 156k miles. I am a mechanic, but never really worked on foreign cars. I got a deal on the car, as the previous owners mechanic told them the car needed a new differential, at the cost of $4800. They then just parked the car in the garage for 4-5 years.

The car runs & drives great when cold, it had new Bridgestone tires mounted & balanced right before it was parked (I believe the issue was present before the new tires) but after 5-10 minutes of driving, the car starts to get a vibration under normal acceleration. If you give it heavy throttle it doesn't seem to vibrate. The vibration seems to be in the body, although you can slightly feel it in the wheel it seems. Maybe that is because the body is shaking so bad that it also vibrates the wheel. It shifts great, and the vibration seems to continue through all the gears. It is like you are driving on the rumble strips.

I have searched lots of forums online, and this seems to be kind of a common issue. None of the stories I have read had anyone say the differential was the problem, most seemed to be the rubber driveshaft coupler (guibo) or the axles. The first thing I did was changed the differential fluid. The old fluid looked pretty good, no metal shavings or burnt smell. I then filled it back up with Mobil 1 75w90 fluid. No change to the vibration (was fine while the car was cold, but after a few minutes of driving it came back.) Then I changed the guibo out with a Dorman replacement from Advance Auto. The old one had some very small cracks if you bent it with your hands, but was not frayed or badly cracked as most people described. After that, it kind of feels like the vibration got a little better, but is still very noticeable. I only drove the car about 20 minutes after changing it.

I also cut a clamp off the right rear inner axle boot to look at the grease, but there was no signs of water/moisture like people have described in the forums I have read.

I have raised the car on a hoist while in our shop, but cannot replicate the vibration in the air. The differential does make some noise, but I really can't get the vibration to happen in the air.

I am starting to think it may be the differential, but would like to make sure before spending the time and money on one. I can get a used differential with a 6 month warranty for about $300 delivered, not sure what kind of work is involved in changing it though.

Hey I have a 2009 328i E90 with the same issue. Did anyone ever figure out the vibration issue?