[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

So I pulled all the codes from my car as I was filling gas this morning, and there were a gazillion H (history) codes that I had never seen/was not familiar with. Now that I think of it, I believe these are stored codes from the Alpina flash, as it appears others had the same “issue”. If this is the case, I’m just going to clear them and move on, the car is logging strong and the trans adapted to the TCU flash just fine a few weeks back. Oh and it threw a fuel mixture code from the ethanol, but I’m not too concerned there as the car is doing fine with E30 outside of weaker than optimal LPFP PSI midrange. I’m wondering what ya’ll think about those history codes….Thanks!

The codes were: H2F84,H2F4c,H2DC3,H0DB0,H0d95,H0D9c, H0dA5…very weird codes that I have no experience with.

Yep. Me too. I got all of those H codes as a result if the Alpina B3 TCU flash. Do you get the "D3" start immediately after re flashing the ECU with a Cobb map like I do?

[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by dbudh001

hmm good to kno - TY

rarely does it get to 260 - will be doing the oil cooler upgrade soon
after charge pipe with DVs , and oil catch can

i've never done a data log, thats my next step -

any tips, recommendations?

Smart to get the oil cooler. I like the ones from ER. If I were to track my car I'd be looking at their dual cooler.
http://www.evolutionracewerks.com/node/133

Good luck!

[dbudh001]

Originally Posted by E90Company

I wouldn't personally run a catch can on my car. Other than that, when logging just make sure your traction control is fully off, you are in 3rd gear, and go WOT from 2500 to 6500 RPM's in the log. Also, before you log, do 2-3 WOT runs beforehand so the car adapts and you don't see adaptation-based timing corrections. Good luck

now that you said that and well from all ur posts you know your sh*T...so whats your reasoning behind not running one
- i was wondering whats the need for it -
i hear everyone here recommend it which is why i decided to get it -
i checked the OEM IC before swapping to the HPF a few days ago , and found no oil whats to ever even after leaning on one end for a few hrs
after 6 years of spirited driving i was a bit surprised -

so whats the real cause of people having oil in their IC sometimes even a quart of oil ...and some.. like me - have next to none / no oil

[dbudh001]

Originally Posted by JHR

Smart to get the oil cooler. I like the ones from ER. If I were to track my car I'd be looking at their dual cooler.
http://www.evolutionracewerks.com/node/133

Good luck!

i like their products... will be getting their charge pipe and oil cooler for sure

[E90Company]

Originally Posted by dbudh001

now that you said that and well from all ur posts you know your sh*T...so whats your reasoning behind not running one
- i was wondering whats the need for it -
i hear everyone here recommend it which is why i decided to get it -
i checked the OEM IC before swapping to the HPF a few days ago , and found no oil whats to ever even after leaning on one end for a few hrs
after 6 years of spirited driving i was a bit surprised -

so whats the real cause of people having oil in their IC sometimes even a quart of oil ...and some.. like me - have next to none / no oil

I ran the BMS OCC for about 1,000 miles, and had smoke coming out the exhaust because of it. I got my turbos replaced for wastegate rattle and my car was still smoking. Day after I took the OCC off and replaced it with a new BMW check valve, no more smoke since. It's restrictive IMO, and not needed on the N54. Especially in your case where you had pretty much no oil in your intercooler end tank.

Causes are because the PCV valve dumps crankcase vapors into the rear intake tube. Some cars have more blow by than others, in your case you don't have alot which is a good thing.

[Jeef]

What do you guys suggest as a turbo upgrade to hit 550rwhp? Thanks

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by Jeef

What do you guys suggest as a turbo upgrade to hit 550rwhp? Thanks

The Vargas VTR25R kit should comfortably hit those numbers and spool VERY fast.

[Jeef]

Originally Posted by nema

The Vargas VTR25R kit should comfortably hit those numbers and spool VERY fast.

Don't think stage two would hit that power?

[E90Company]

Originally Posted by Jeef

Don't think stage two would hit that power?

No.

[Jeef]

Originally Posted by E90Company

No.

Might as well get the highest turbo upgrade then not much more..

[steedsta]

hey can you guys check this out, my buddy had a e92 with a cobb and he said he would break the tires loose in 2nd gear, and im hardly doing that in first. The power feels nice but not what I expected. I noticed the intake temp is getting awfully high, so i realize an intercooler will help alot. I noticed a couple cylinders are simular with timing retard, so im curious what that could be, im planning on getting some HKS spark plugs soon.

this is a third gear pull from about 2k rpm to 7k in Stage 1 sport stock throttle. i have ar catted downpipes and a catback system is all

thanks,
steve

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by Jeef

Don't think stage two would hit that power?

No hybrid turbo will hit 550whp and live to tell about it lol

Originally Posted by Jeef

Might as well get the highest turbo upgrade then not much more..

It all depends on your power goals. If your goal is 550whp then you will want the setup that will hit those numbers comfortably and spool as fast as possible, which all things being equal, will be the smaller turbo option. If "all out power" is your goal and you've the money to make it happen then yeah, GTX2871 FTMFW

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by steedsta

hey can you guys check this out, my buddy had a e92 with a cobb and he said he would break the tires loose in 2nd gear, and im hardly doing that in first. The power feels nice but not what I expected. I noticed the intake temp is getting awfully high, so i realize an intercooler will help alot. I noticed a couple cylinders are simular with timing retard, so im curious what that could be, im planning on getting some HKS spark plugs soon.

this is a third gear pull from about 2k rpm to 7k in Stage 1 sport stock throttle. i have ar catted downpipes and a catback system is all

thanks,
steve

The log looks fine aside from the REALLY hot charge air temps. The timing corrections you saw were pretty down low in the rev range and cleared up quickly. Those CATs are what's killing your power, the hotter the air the more timing the car pulls out and the less power you make.


Just curious but since you have high-flow DPs why not run the stage 2 maps?

[steedsta]

Originally Posted by Ænema

The log looks fine aside from the REALLY hot charge air temps. The timing corrections you saw were pretty down low in the rev range and cleared up quickly. Those CATs are what's killing your power, the hotter the air the more timing the car pulls out and the less power you make.


Just curious but since you have high-flow DPs why not run the stage 2 maps?

thanks! i was thinking the small intercooler was killing my power due to the high heat.

the reason i am not running stage 2 is because I just got the cobb a couple days ago and wanted to make sure it was safe to run, as in make sure my car was running fine with map 1 first.
What exactly is the difference between stage 1 and stage 2?
I was thinking that if my intake temps already getting so hot that if i run stage 2 it will be worse.

[Jeef]

Originally Posted by steedsta

thanks! i was thinking the small intercooler was killing my power due to the high heat.

the reason i am not running stage 2 is because I just got the cobb a couple days ago and wanted to make sure it was safe to run, as in make sure my car was running fine with map 1 first.
What exactly is the difference between stage 1 and stage 2?
I was thinking that if my intake temps already getting so hot that if i run stage 2 it will be worse.

Just get a new fmic and run Stage 2+

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by steedsta

thanks! i was thinking the small intercooler was killing my power due to the high heat.

the reason i am not running stage 2 is because I just got the cobb a couple days ago and wanted to make sure it was safe to run, as in make sure my car was running fine with map 1 first.
What exactly is the difference between stage 1 and stage 2?
I was thinking that if my intake temps already getting so hot that if i run stage 2 it will be worse.

The stage 2 maps run a little more boost and just a touch more timing advance. Running more boost has potential to make the CAT temps situation worse but it's really the crappy OEM IC that's killing your power. If it was me, the next mod I get would definitely be an upgraded FMIC

[Scott B]

Original post found here.

My 1M's powertrain is stock with exception of a Forge FMIC, and Cobb reflash (Stg1+FMIC LT Sport IKC0S 1M v402 + Linear Throttle). At Laguna, I run a mix of about 97+ octane to prevent detonation. What I'm experiencing after about the first lap of every session is some fluctuation in power delivery at full throttle. On the first lap, as on the street, power delivery is very predictable and linear with pedal input. I suspect something is getting hot and that the DME is throttling boost in response, but I'm not exactly sure -- that's what it feels like, anyway. Oil temps look about 260* on the gauge. Ambient temps were about 85* F.

Two things I should have tried that day:
1) Reflashing to a less aggressive map (although the one I'm running fits my level of mods)
2) Datalogged the DME

Any ideas what could be going on or what might be getting hot? As you can see in the video, it isn't really a problem per se, more of a slight imperfection that I can feel while driving. Thoughts welcome.

[Florida650iGC]

Originally Posted by E90Company

If you are getting the COBB, FMIC and DP's you can go straight to the Stage2+ Maps. If you have 91 octane in your area Drive and Sport maps work, if you have 93 then run the Agressive map. Make sure to log and post them here as well to let us see how your car is doing.

For a daily driver do you think it's safe to run the Stg1+ Aggressive map on 91 Octane with about 3 Gal of E85 mixed in per tank, making about an E25 mix?

It seems to like the Sport flash with the extra E85 added in, for long term use do you think it would be okay to run the Aggressive map on the aforementioned mix?

What's the main difference between Sport and Aggressive maps?

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Scott B

Original post found here.

My 1M's powertrain is stock with exception of a Forge FMIC, and Cobb reflash (Stg1+FMIC LT Sport IKC0S 1M v402 + Linear Throttle). At Laguna, I run a mix of about 97+ octane to prevent detonation. What I'm experiencing after about the first lap of every session is some fluctuation in power delivery at full throttle. On the first lap, as on the street, power delivery is very predictable and linear with pedal input. I suspect something is getting hot and that the DME is throttling boost in response, but I'm not exactly sure -- that's what it feels like, anyway. Oil temps look about 260* on the gauge. Ambient temps were about 85* F.

Two things I should have tried that day:
1) Reflashing to a less aggressive map (although the one I'm running fits my level of mods)
2) Datalogged the DME

Any ideas what could be going on or what might be getting hot? As you can see in the video, it isn't really a problem per se, more of a slight imperfection that I can feel while driving. Thoughts welcome.

Tough to say, but its usually the oil that gets hot too quickly on n54s. Without a log im not sure if its possible to see why/if timing is being pulled out.

[E90Company]

Originally Posted by 335XI///M

For a daily driver do you think it's safe to run the Stg1+ Aggressive map on 91 Octane with about 3 Gal of E85 mixed in per tank, making about an E25 mix?

It seems to like the Sport flash with the extra E85 added in, for long term use do you think it would be okay to run the Aggressive map on the aforementioned mix?

What's the main difference between Sport and Aggressive maps?

You will be fine running agressive with that mix for sure. You can always log it to make sure the car is happy as well. Sport vs Agressive is slightly higher boost and timing targets.

[Ænema]

Originally Posted by Scott B

Original post found here.

My 1M's powertrain is stock with exception of a Forge FMIC, and Cobb reflash (Stg1+FMIC LT Sport IKC0S 1M v402 + Linear Throttle). At Laguna, I run a mix of about 97+ octane to prevent detonation. What I'm experiencing after about the first lap of every session is some fluctuation in power delivery at full throttle. On the first lap, as on the street, power delivery is very predictable and linear with pedal input. I suspect something is getting hot and that the DME is throttling boost in response, but I'm not exactly sure -- that's what it feels like, anyway. Oil temps look about 260* on the gauge. Ambient temps were about 85* F.

Two things I should have tried that day:
1) Reflashing to a less aggressive map (although the one I'm running fits my level of mods)
2) Datalogged the DME

Any ideas what could be going on or what might be getting hot? As you can see in the video, it isn't really a problem per se, more of a slight imperfection that I can feel while driving. Thoughts welcome.

More than likely it's the CATs that are working against you, at least at first. It doesn't take long on a road course for the CATs to get hot and kill your power. After that then oil/ECT temps are next on the list of suspects.

If you're serious about tracking the car then this problem will probably need to be addressed on a couple different fronts.

Talk to @Jake@ptf about a map specifically for road coursing the car and, if it is allowed by your sanctioning body, methanol injection. The chemical cooling effects meth injection offers is awesome.

Then look into running a better oil cooler setup than the stock unit. I know @MDORPHN has a really slick setup on his 1M and he probably is one of(if not THE) top track guys on the forums. So you may want to talk to him.

[Jonjt]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Tough to say, but its usually the oil that gets hot too quickly on n54s. Without a log im not sure if its possible to see why/if timing is being pulled out.

I've seen my N54 pull timing, presumably because of high IATs (ambient at 95 F or higher). The oil gets hotter but, stays just under 250 F. This is with street driving, though.