N52 Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY

dopke · 01-16-2016, 11:26 PM

This was a great write-up. I did a coolant flush first and then did this oil housing filter gasket swap in between, before filling coolant up again and venting. Total time was about 3.5 hours.

Definitely spent a good amount of time removing panels and other parts that are in the way of getting the engine cover off, etc. But that's all easy -- the hard part is that 3rd bolt in the backside behind the manifold. I made do with a 8 mm socket 1/4 drive swivel and extension. It probably would have been better with the actual etorx, but I do not think it stripped. You just need to make sure it's on there well.

Other than that no real issue, although I wish I spent more time cleaning up the oil grime/gunk that leaked onto/around the engine so that I can have a better idea of if it's leaking again. I only cleaned it afterwards and that means not being able to get to all the areas that could have been cleaned had I done it while the OFH was still detached.

All-in-all, I'd say this is about the same difficulty (slightly harder due to the 3rd bolt) than doing a spark plug change, which is relatively simple and straight forward.

triax37 · 06-27-2017, 04:29 PM

Just completed this today in about 3 hours. I thought I would add a few things, as I am also a beginner. I just bought the car and the pre-purchase inspection indicated I would need to do this, as the car is at 92k and there was oil residue around the housing and there have been a few drops of oil on my driveway.

1. I drained about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator - together with using the turkey baster to remove excess oil, I only had a small amount of fluid to clean-up when I removed the OFHG housing. It's pretty easy to do using the coolant draining procedures, and the car is almost unbelievably easy to do coolant burping. Also, when I drained the coolant, there was a black particle, likely from the OFHG (see last picture).
2. 8mm ratcheting box wrench - Home Depot sells one for $6, and it's worth it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-m...W8MM/204759320
3. Bolt under manifold - as others have said, a 1/4" ratcheting wrench with extension and a wobble reaches this bolt easily (at least for N52 people).

Pictures are below:
OFHG before I removed it:

Comparison of old vs. new:

Particle from the coolant:

The Nightman · 08-25-2017, 04:31 PM

Thank you for the DIY! I just replaced my OFHG on my 2009 E90 328i with 70k miles and it was very straight forward. I used BMW 11428637821 which is the latest revision since Apr 2015 per RealOEM: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=11428637821

I took the few extra minutes to drain the coolant to prevent a mess. A trick here is to keep the cooling system closed while you remove the plastic drain plug. A little bit of coolant will drip but it should stop on its own. With your funnel and catch container in place, crack open the bleed screw on the reservoir and the radiator will begin to drain. Once you've drained enough coolant (I drained about 2L), close the bleed screw and the coolant should stop draining. The electric water pump makes bleeding the coolant a breeze once you're finished and refilled the coolant.

I used a 1/4" E10 socket with a 1/4" swivel joint and extension to remove the bolt under the intake manifold. I tried an 8mm socket at first but it began to round the bolt so I bought the proper socket. An 8mm ratcheting wrench worked on the lower bolt (shortest one) and is probably the only way to remove it due to clearance.

The new BMW gasket was made in Japan interestingly. I noticed it had more "dimples" around it compared to previous gaskets; possibly for added support to prevent flattening?

New vs old gasket

Here are some photos from the process:

Airbox and ducting removed. Alternator, accessory belt and intake hose bagged up.

Draining coolant.

Accessing the bolt behind the intake manifold. This was after breaking the torque with a larger ratchet.

Housing removed. Old gasket looked the worst around the coolant passage.

Engine side.

BMW 11428637821, made in Japan

AoS810 · 08-31-2017, 10:18 PM

Thanks for sharing your experience and pics freedomfries! I'm about to tackle this DIY soon, I've bought a 1/4" E10 socket and now I'm just waiting to get this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

So expensive for this most likely one time use tool. Question for you, when you used the 8mm box wrench, did you feel like the E10 bolt at the bottom/front of the oil filter housing would strip?

I'm a firm believer in using a torque wrench which I believe is ~16ft/lbs, but I doubt I can get the right clearance to use a torque wrench even with a swivel attachment.. I've watched some youtube vids where people just tighten the bolts to hell with their hands but don't know if there's any negatives from that (i.e. gasket crushed too much?).

The Nightman · 09-01-2017, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AoS810

Thanks for sharing your experience and pics freedomfries! I'm about to tackle this DIY soon, I've bought a 1/4" E10 socket and now I'm just waiting to get this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

So expensive for this most likely one time use tool. Question for you, when you used the 8mm box wrench, did you feel like the E10 bolt at the bottom/front of the oil filter housing would strip?

I'm a firm believer in using a torque wrench which I believe is ~16ft/lbs, but I doubt I can get the right clearance to use a torque wrench even with a swivel attachment.. I've watched some youtube vids where people just tighten the bolts to hell with their hands but don't know if there's any negatives from that (i.e. gasket crushed too much?).

No issues with the 8mm ratcheting wrench on the bottom bolt. You're able to get a good fit so the wrench grips the bolt well.

I didn't use a torque wrench and just snugged the bolts down. The correct torque is 22nm or 16.2 ftlb

850CSi · 10-02-2017, 04:22 PM

Guys, how much should my indie be charging me for this? (I like turning wrenches myself but live in the city and don't have a good place to work on my car ATM)

M_Torx · 08-01-2018, 10:09 AM

Doing mine atm even b4 I started to do anything make sure you can get all 3 slightly loose...just to make sure...no need for all that fancy torx swivel extensions... this and that.. just use this (pic) wrench clears after removing sensor perfect and bottom one no probs..my mechanic said...he was right...worked perfect...and gonna drain a couple litres of coolant so mine doesn't spill everywhere..then put back in after...no need to bleed cause just out of rad..that hose gotta come off and no coolant came out after draining 2L

mrheinze · 11-02-2018, 06:24 PM

Just did mine (2006 330i) without removing the intake manifold. Used a 5/16" 12-point 1/4" drive socket + swivel to get to the "back side" bolt, no problem as long as you keep enough force on it to make sure the socket is snug. No need to buy special E-10 1/4" drive tools, hard to find and you pay $$$ for them.

sonofsun · 03-28-2019, 03:57 PM

Awesome thread. Very valuable for OFHG change. Thanks.

Black_e90 · 03-30-2019, 03:04 PM

Here’s a video I made on how to do it the easiest way possible and without removing the manifold. I used gasket sealer yes. Some people are against it, I know. It’s been working for me though. Also went over which tools to use.

pmarlowe · 04-02-2019, 09:28 PM

I just did this last week on my 2007 328i (N51 engine) and want to share my experience. I didn't remove the manifold, didn't drain the coolant either. I did buy a quarter-inch e10 flex socket and a 8mm ratchet wrench. After removing the three screws in like 5 minutes, I was able to remove the gasket, clean the mating surfaces, put the new gasket and tighten the bolts. I have to say, this was much easier than what I thought. I think was done in less than 30 minutes and cant understand why a mechanic wants to charge $600 to $800 for such a simple job.

I did screw up one thing. I thought I had to pull out the wire clip which secures the sensor harness to the socket and the clip went flying never to be found! Now I have to source a clip. I wish I had realized that you push down on the clip and remove the harness.

Lastly, a question. I didn't replace the oil pressure switch which came in the kit I purchased from FCP Euro. Is that something I should have done?

bluewater328 · 04-03-2019, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmarlowe

I just did this last week on my 2007 328i (N51 engine) and want to share my experience. I didn't remove the manifold, didn't drain the coolant either. I did buy a quarter-inch e10 flex socket and a 8mm ratchet wrench. After removing the three screws in like 5 minutes, I was able to remove the gasket, clean the mating surfaces, put the new gasket and tighten the bolts. I have to say, this was much easier than what I thought. I think was done in less than 30 minutes and cant understand why a mechanic wants to charge $600 to $800 for such a simple job.

I did screw up one thing. I thought I had to pull out the wire clip which secures the sensor harness to the socket and the clip went flying never to be found! Now I have to source a clip. I wish I had realized that you push down on the clip and remove the harness.

Lastly, a question. I didn't replace the oil pressure switch which came in the kit I purchased from FCP Euro. Is that something I should have done?

I don't think the switch is such a big deal. Just one of those things you do since you're over there. I can see where it "might" give you more clearance if you remove it, but I cant remember.

Assume you did this on a cold engine; but surprised you didnt need to drain anything at all. So there was no excess coolant or oil in the housing area?

Wgosma · 10-15-2019, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snyperx

Wish I had this guide last night. I had a hell of a time with the bolt under the manifold. I was going to take the oil pressure switch out, but opted not too out of fear of ruining.

Did this OFHG work on my 2012 X3 (N52N motor); that bolt under the mainfold is challenging to get off, definitely need 1/4" drive torx socket.

Nap · 10-20-2019, 09:06 AM

Sorry I did not want to make a new thread just for this question. My carfax says "Oil filter adapter gasket replaced". Is the oil filter adapter gasket another name for the oil filter housing gasket? I can not find anything on google to do with an oil filter adapter gasket on my car.

Wgosma · 10-20-2019, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nap

Sorry I did not want to make a new thread just for this question. My carfax says "Oil filter adapter gasket replaced". Is the oil filter adapter gasket another name for the oil filter housing gasket? I can not find anything on google to do with an oil filter adapter gasket on my car.

Must be housing gasket; very common leak point.

clegg · 10-20-2019, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nap

Sorry I did not want to make a new thread just for this question. My carfax says "Oil filter adapter gasket replaced". Is the oil filter adapter gasket another name for the oil filter housing gasket? I can not find anything on google to do with an oil filter adapter gasket on my car.

Yes, It's the same.

01-16-2016, 11:26 PM	#23
dopke New Member 0 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 328xi Sedan Join Date: May 2011 Location: VA iTrader: (0)	This was a great write-up. I did a coolant flush first and then did this oil housing filter gasket swap in between, before filling coolant up again and venting. Total time was about 3.5 hours. Definitely spent a good amount of time removing panels and other parts that are in the way of getting the engine cover off, etc. But that's all easy -- the hard part is that 3rd bolt in the backside behind the manifold. I made do with a 8 mm socket 1/4 drive swivel and extension. It probably would have been better with the actual etorx, but I do not think it stripped. You just need to make sure it's on there well. Other than that no real issue, although I wish I spent more time cleaning up the oil grime/gunk that leaked onto/around the engine so that I can have a better idea of if it's leaking again. I only cleaned it afterwards and that means not being able to get to all the areas that could have been cleaned had I done it while the OFH was still detached. All-in-all, I'd say this is about the same difficulty (slightly harder due to the 3rd bolt) than doing a spark plug change, which is relatively simple and straight forward.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-27-2017, 04:29 PM	#24
triax37 First Lieutenant 130 Rep 312 Posts Drives: 2017 F31, 2014 F15, 2002 M3 Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Denver, CO iTrader: (1)	Just completed this today in about 3 hours. I thought I would add a few things, as I am also a beginner. I just bought the car and the pre-purchase inspection indicated I would need to do this, as the car is at 92k and there was oil residue around the housing and there have been a few drops of oil on my driveway. 1. I drained about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator - together with using the turkey baster to remove excess oil, I only had a small amount of fluid to clean-up when I removed the OFHG housing. It's pretty easy to do using the coolant draining procedures, and the car is almost unbelievably easy to do coolant burping. Also, when I drained the coolant, there was a black particle, likely from the OFHG (see last picture). 2. 8mm ratcheting box wrench - Home Depot sells one for $6, and it's worth it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-m...W8MM/204759320 3. Bolt under manifold - as others have said, a 1/4" ratcheting wrench with extension and a wobble reaches this bolt easily (at least for N52 people). Pictures are below: OFHG before I removed it: Comparison of old vs. new: Particle from the coolant: Last edited by triax37; 06-27-2017 at 04:41 PM..
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08-25-2017, 04:31 PM	#25
The Nightman Cometh 1090 Rep 1,302 Posts Drives: Boy's Soul Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Boy's Hole iTrader: (4) Garage List E90 LCI "330i& ... [10.00]	Thank you for the DIY! I just replaced my OFHG on my 2009 E90 328i with 70k miles and it was very straight forward. I used BMW 11428637821 which is the latest revision since Apr 2015 per RealOEM: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part...&q=11428637821 I took the few extra minutes to drain the coolant to prevent a mess. A trick here is to keep the cooling system closed while you remove the plastic drain plug. A little bit of coolant will drip but it should stop on its own. With your funnel and catch container in place, crack open the bleed screw on the reservoir and the radiator will begin to drain. Once you've drained enough coolant (I drained about 2L), close the bleed screw and the coolant should stop draining. The electric water pump makes bleeding the coolant a breeze once you're finished and refilled the coolant. I used a 1/4" E10 socket with a 1/4" swivel joint and extension to remove the bolt under the intake manifold. I tried an 8mm socket at first but it began to round the bolt so I bought the proper socket. An 8mm ratcheting wrench worked on the lower bolt (shortest one) and is probably the only way to remove it due to clearance. The new BMW gasket was made in Japan interestingly. I noticed it had more "dimples" around it compared to previous gaskets; possibly for added support to prevent flattening? New vs old gasket Here are some photos from the process: Airbox and ducting removed. Alternator, accessory belt and intake hose bagged up. Draining coolant. Accessing the bolt behind the intake manifold. This was after breaking the torque with a larger ratchet. Housing removed. Old gasket looked the worst around the coolant passage. Engine side. BMW 11428637821, made in Japan Last edited by The Nightman; 08-25-2017 at 04:54 PM..
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08-31-2017, 10:18 PM	#26
AoS810 Lieutenant 97 Rep 414 Posts Drives: 2008 E90 N51, 2011 E91 N52 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Los Angeles, CA iTrader: (6)	Thanks for sharing your experience and pics freedomfries! I'm about to tackle this DIY soon, I've bought a 1/4" E10 socket and now I'm just waiting to get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER So expensive for this most likely one time use tool. Question for you, when you used the 8mm box wrench, did you feel like the E10 bolt at the bottom/front of the oil filter housing would strip? I'm a firm believer in using a torque wrench which I believe is ~16ft/lbs, but I doubt I can get the right clearance to use a torque wrench even with a swivel attachment.. I've watched some youtube vids where people just tighten the bolts to hell with their hands but don't know if there's any negatives from that (i.e. gasket crushed too much?).
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2017, 04:22 PM	#28
850CSi 16 years and counting... 100 Rep 471 Posts Drives: '06 325i 6MT Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Wisconsin iTrader: (2)	Guys, how much should my indie be charging me for this? (I like turning wrenches myself but live in the city and don't have a good place to work on my car ATM) __________________ E90 325i 6MT + E61 530xiT 6AT = N52B30*2
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08-01-2018, 10:09 AM	#29
M_Torx First Lieutenant 328 Rep 341 Posts Drives: M Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Ontario iTrader: (0)	Doing mine atm even b4 I started to do anything make sure you can get all 3 slightly loose...just to make sure...no need for all that fancy torx swivel extensions... this and that.. just use this (pic) wrench clears after removing sensor perfect and bottom one no probs..my mechanic said...he was right...worked perfect...and gonna drain a couple litres of coolant so mine doesn't spill everywhere..then put back in after...no need to bleed cause just out of rad..that hose gotta come off and no coolant came out after draining 2L Attached Images __________________ TTP
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11-02-2018, 06:24 PM	#30
mrheinze Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2006 330i Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Shrewsbury, MA iTrader: (0)	5/16" 12-point does the trick Just did mine (2006 330i) without removing the intake manifold. Used a 5/16" 12-point 1/4" drive socket + swivel to get to the "back side" bolt, no problem as long as you keep enough force on it to make sure the socket is snug. No need to buy special E-10 1/4" drive tools, hard to find and you pay $$$ for them.
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03-28-2019, 03:57 PM	#31
sonofsun Private First Class 21 Rep 101 Posts Drives: '11 328i X-drive E90 N51 PK53 Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Texas iTrader: (0)	Awesome thread. Very valuable for OFHG change. Thanks.
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03-30-2019, 03:04 PM	#32
Black_e90 Second Lieutenant 75 Rep 232 Posts Drives: 09 328i Sport Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: FL iTrader: (0)	Here’s a video I made on how to do it the easiest way possible and without removing the manifold. I used gasket sealer yes. Some people are against it, I know. It’s been working for me though. Also went over which tools to use.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-02-2019, 09:28 PM	#33
pmarlowe New Member 2 Rep 16 Posts Drives: BMW 328i Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: San Fran iTrader: (0)	I just did this last week on my 2007 328i (N51 engine) and want to share my experience. I didn't remove the manifold, didn't drain the coolant either. I did buy a quarter-inch e10 flex socket and a 8mm ratchet wrench. After removing the three screws in like 5 minutes, I was able to remove the gasket, clean the mating surfaces, put the new gasket and tighten the bolts. I have to say, this was much easier than what I thought. I think was done in less than 30 minutes and cant understand why a mechanic wants to charge $600 to $800 for such a simple job. I did screw up one thing. I thought I had to pull out the wire clip which secures the sensor harness to the socket and the clip went flying never to be found! Now I have to source a clip. I wish I had realized that you push down on the clip and remove the harness. Lastly, a question. I didn't replace the oil pressure switch which came in the kit I purchased from FCP Euro. Is that something I should have done?
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10-20-2019, 09:06 AM	#36
Nap Private 18 Rep 57 Posts Drives: 2008 328i Sedan Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: U.S. iTrader: (0)	Sorry I did not want to make a new thread just for this question. My carfax says "Oil filter adapter gasket replaced". Is the oil filter adapter gasket another name for the oil filter housing gasket? I can not find anything on google to do with an oil filter adapter gasket on my car.
	Appreciate 0 Quote