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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > e90 - N54 Oil Filter Housing gasket replacement (2007 335i automatic)



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      01-23-2016, 05:56 AM   #89
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Hey guys, I was just finishing this up and when I went to start the car the alternator or something in that area started smoking....so I turned the car off right away.... Any ideas?? I was careful not to spill coolant on it, however there was already some oil on its housing. Should I give it another attempt?
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      01-23-2016, 06:08 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuji View Post
Hey guys, I was just finishing this up and when I went to start the car the alternator or something in that area started smoking....so I turned the car off right away.... Any ideas?? I was careful not to spill coolant on it, however there was already some oil on its housing. Should I give it another attempt?
It's probably leftover spilt oil from the R&R procedure, unless you actually see a fresh oil leak. If you don't see any obvious leaks, it shouldn't harm the engine to run it; you need to in order to confirm if there is a MAJOR leak or not. Any minor leaks would be similar to any previous leaks in that it only causes annoyance and irritation with unsightly drips and mess which was the reason you replaced the gasket(s) in the first place. You may be disappointed it's happening again, but it's not a dead-lining condition.

After I replaced my gaskets, I power washed everything (covering all sensitive parts of course) and blow-dried everything before starting the car for the first time. This ensured that any burning or oil drops were fresh leaks.
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      01-23-2016, 06:11 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuji View Post
Hey guys, I was just finishing this up and when I went to start the car the alternator or something in that area started smoking....so I turned the car off right away.... Any ideas?? I was careful not to spill coolant on it, however there was already some oil on its housing. Should I give it another attempt?
It's probably leftover spilt oil from the R&R procedure, unless you actually see a fresh oil leak. If you don't see any obvious leaks, it shouldn't harm the engine to run it; you need to in order to confirm if there is a MAJOR leak or not. Any minor leaks would be similar to any previous leaks in that it only causes annoyance and irritation with unsightly drips and mess which was the reason you replaced the gasket(s) in the first place. You may be disappointed it's happening again, but it's not a dead-lining condition.

After I replaced my gaskets, I power washed everything (covering all sensitive parts of course) and blow-dried everything before starting the car for the first time. This ensured that any burning or oil drops were fresh leaks.
So you reckon I didn't fry the alternator and that's what is causing the smoke? I put my hand near it and it felt a little warm... I only let it run for like 20 seconds before shutting it off really don't want to fork out for a new alternator

May I ask what you dried everything with?
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      01-23-2016, 11:54 AM   #92
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Originally Posted by Fuji View Post
So you reckon I didn't fry the alternator and that's what is causing the smoke? I put my hand near it and it felt a little warm... I only let it run for like 20 seconds before shutting it off really don't want to fork out for a new alternator

May I ask what you dried everything with?
I seriously doubt the alternator is burning up; it's very robust. If it's failing, it would manifest itself with charging issues.

Keep in mind that the alternator is mounted above the OFH, so any smoke you see arising around the alternator is from oil related to the OFH.

And I used compressed air to dry everything, from a 6HP 240V 2-stage, 80 gallon vertical air compressor.
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      01-24-2016, 05:28 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuji View Post
So you reckon I didn't fry the alternator and that's what is causing the smoke? I put my hand near it and it felt a little warm... I only let it run for like 20 seconds before shutting it off really don't want to fork out for a new alternator

May I ask what you dried everything with?
I seriously doubt the alternator is burning up; it's very robust. If it's failing, it would manifest itself with charging issues.

Keep in mind that the alternator is mounted above the OFH, so any smoke you see arising around the alternator is from oil related to the OFH.

And I used compressed air to dry everything, from a 6HP 240V 2-stage, 80 gallon vertical air compressor.
Cheers mate, I found the smoke coming from the serpentine belt as it runs over the alternator pulley. There was some leftover coolant on the belt that I couldn't get off initially and I think it was evaporating as it was making contact with the alternator pulley. I ran the car and sprayed some water over the belt to dilute the coolant. It worked!

Thanks for putting my mind at ease
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      02-17-2016, 11:11 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissan View Post
Thanks for the great write-up. I tried this last wknd and ended up stripping bolt #2 despite having a etorx box wrench. It just wouldn't break free. Any ideas how I should remove it now? It was frustrating to get all the way to that step and then have to put everything back together b/c of that bolt. I didn't remove the fan (but did remove the coolant hose), but space was still limited...couldn't get enough torque to it even w/an Irwin bolt out socket.
I did the EXACT same thing to mine. How did you end up getting the bolt out? What issues if any arise from removing the coolant hose next to the bolt? Thank you for any input!
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      02-27-2016, 08:16 AM   #95
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Did this yesterday, along with the OCHG. Not sure which gasket (or both?) the leak was coming from, so I figured while I have it off, might as well replace them both.

Big shout out and thanks for this DIY!!! Couldn't have done it without this thread.
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      05-04-2016, 09:59 AM   #96
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Does anyone know who the OEM supplier is for the gaskets? Looked around on sites such as Ecstuning and eeuroparts. There are a couple of makers such as Elring, Ajusa etc. What brand did you guys get or did you just buy OEM BMW at a higher cost?
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      05-04-2016, 12:16 PM   #97
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I picked up mine from Endras. Cost was relatively inexpensive. They have a discount if you tell them you're with, I want to say, Maxbimmer.
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      05-09-2016, 01:39 AM   #98
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I would like to thank the OP and others who share their experience on this job. I did mine last week, the OFHG, OCHG and valve cover. While I was in there, I replaced the serpentine belt as it was soaked with oil leaking from the OFH. The pulleys are fine.

I did not remove any of the coolant hose, did not drain the oil nor the coolant. Yes, it is a little messy but manageable if preparation is done well.

For this job in a N54, I found that the removal of the intake manifold and the radiator fan is a must. With the fan out, it is a lot easier to position my 8mm gear wrench to the bolt (the one points downward) in OFH. It is very easy to strip that bolt if the gear wrench does not fit perfectly onto the bolt.

My car is running well now without the smell of burning engine oil.

Thanks.
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      07-31-2016, 07:16 PM   #99
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Did the job this weekend on an 07 335i coupe, 6mt, both gaskets (OFHG and OCHG).

First, great job by NGEE, a real service for the N54 community.

My experience:
1) I took off the window sill panel and cabin filter - only a few screws and it make access so much easier. Don't know how NGEE did it with that in place.

2) I used an 8mm GearWrench on the 3rd bolt, and it worked perfectly. No need to take off the coolant hose. Not sure why anyone would say this is risky - it's a perfect fit on the torx head.

3) Took 7+ hours. I worked slow, which all amateur mechanics should plan on doing. I've had my car for 3+ years now, and this is the first time I've had this much of the engine disassembled, so I learned a lot. Next time I do anything like this, it should go much quicker.

4) Thank you, BMW, for the computer controlled coolant bleeding procedure. I always had problems with bleeding working on my '01 330i coupe, now easy peasy.

5) Shame on you, BMW, for not solving this gasket problem, and for increasing the costs of these gaskets - they were $30 each, and that with the BMW CCA discount. Wow.
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      08-12-2016, 03:53 PM   #100
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Smile

Thanks, really helped. Did this on my 08 335i today. Took my about 6 hrs and i was happy i did it. Saved a lot also.
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      11-27-2016, 01:31 PM   #101
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How to access last bolt WITHOUT removing the intake manifold.. Cuts time in less than half!

Anyone try it? Dealer says I have a small leak from there, so I want to do this and the OCG.



Thoughts?
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      11-27-2016, 06:28 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ@ECSMotorsports View Post
How to access last bolt WITHOUT removing the intake manifold.. Cuts time in less than half!

Anyone try it? Dealer says I have a small leak from there, so I want to do this and the OCG.



Thoughts?
I believe that is an N52, not possible on N54
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      11-28-2016, 10:05 AM   #103
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Ohhhhhh wow why didnt that even cross my mind lol. Fail and ignore :P

Will do these all next weekend! This weekend is Mechtronics solenoids replacement -_-
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      11-29-2016, 11:19 AM   #104
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My brother/member IN54NITY and I recently had to remove the oil filter housing from his 2009 335xi which has the factory oil cooler. This was one step in replacing the alternator.
We examined it carefully and saw no way to remove the bolt under the intake manifold.
Since the rear shrouding was already removed (and usually is), and since we have done the walnut shell blasting on numerous cars, unbolting and lifting the intake manifold only took a few minutes. You don't need to remove it entirely, just lift it a inch.
Of course, by this point you might consider also performing the walnut blasting if it has never been done.
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      12-05-2016, 08:47 PM   #105
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Currently in the process of doing this on my car. Any special procedures or instructions on cleaning off the coolant/oil that spilled over the pulleys and belts below the OFH ? Can I just spray some water down there or use a carb or brake type cleaner spray ?
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      12-06-2016, 07:22 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitehawk View Post
Does anyone know who the OEM supplier is for the gaskets? Looked around on sites such as Ecstuning and eeuroparts. There are a couple of makers such as Elring, Ajusa etc. What brand did you guys get or did you just buy OEM BMW at a higher cost?
It is likely that both companies were OEM suppliers at one point, depending on the region and manufacture year. I went with Elring personally, simply because the rubber looked a bit better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by christoepurrr View Post
Currently in the process of doing this on my car. Any special procedures or instructions on cleaning off the coolant/oil that spilled over the pulleys and belts below the OFH ? Can I just spray some water down there or use a carb or brake type cleaner spray ?
Make sure you clean that oil from all the pulleys nicely with some brake cleaner. Although it will burn off, I personally don't think it's a good idea to let the belt get coated with oil/coolant mixture.


I was going to do this job myself in my garage, thankfully I was able to get the car to a friends shop and do it there. What a effing mess, coolant everywhere god damn it, oil dripping. He had a suction machine so most of the oil we were able to suck out of the lines.

Technically you don't need to remove the coolant hose but if you wanna give the housing a good cleaning outside of your engine bay (which you should), you'll need to remove it.

Did I mention the damn coolant mess, for Pete's sake.

Anyways I would highly suggest to remove the radiator fan, and replace your serpentine belt, and don't forget to replace the washers on the oil lines!

Honestly, this job is not worth $200 saved. You lose quite a bit of time and the mess is just a shit show for a home garage. I would definitely pay an experience mechanic to do this, unless you got someone with a shop that can help you out.
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      12-06-2016, 07:35 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf 335 View Post
Did I mention the damn coolant mess, for Pete's sake.
Did you guys drain the coolant and oil prior?
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      12-06-2016, 07:38 AM   #108
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Did you guys drain the coolant and oil prior?
We drained the oil, and sucked out any residual that was sitting in the lines and housing.

Coolant we didn't drain "properly" as I was replacing the belt and didn't care if it gets on it. But I see what you're saying, some of the mess can be avoided to an extent.
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      12-10-2016, 05:29 AM   #109
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Thanks! very useful sharing.
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      12-28-2016, 02:58 PM   #110
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anyone have a solution for removing the lower torx bolt (facing the passenger side) if it has been stripped? I did't see any solution given for the people that have had this problem.


**got the damn bolt out. Took out the fan, coolant hose, and hammered the t10 socket on.

FYI bolt stripped due to my own fault cranking tighter instead of loosening initially. I don't think taking out the hose and fan would be essential otherwise. But definitely would make it easier to work.
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