[getBMWparts]

Originally Posted by Lt. Dan

I'm changing mine right now. Thanks for the DIY.

Tischer just kitted the pump/thermostat/bolts with free shipping for $475 on their specials page!

Here's a link to the page on our site for those interested(about half-way down the page).

[AlanAZ]

Originally Posted by Jason@Tischer

Here's a link for those interested(about half-way down the page).

Jason, is that a new pump or rebuilt pump? Perhaps you could post the individual part numbers for the pump and thermostat on that web page. Thanks.

[EASTCOASTNINJA]

Originally Posted by longhorn335

I'm in the middle of replacing the water pump on my E92 335, and I am having trouble getting the top aluminum bolt of the WP all the way in. The other 2 bolts went in just fine. It might be that the pump I got from Faulkner bmw does not have rubber grommets (this is the new Continental branded pump), so the hole thru which the bolts go is less deep.

What I did is, I took one of the used bolts, saw off the little unthreaded section at the bottom of the bolt (by hand, to avoid generating heat), and it went in just fine, torqued to aprox 80 in lb.

Does anybody see a problem with leaving the bolt in as it is?

---
Update: i did leave the bolt I cut in, and assembled everything.. Cooling system works well now.. Im a little nervous about that bolt and also due to the fact i used the used bolt and not the new.. The reason i used the old one is i think i overtorqued the new bolt when trying to fit it in before realizing it was too long to go in

Do i have reason to be nervous? The other 2 bolts (lower bolts) are new and torqued to spec

to be totally honest i left that top bolt off, and so far no issues. this weekend im about to inspect to see if there was any issues with me taking this risk. and i used my same bolts and everything.

And to the fellow having overheat issues still. Idk what it could be if all your parts are new and you did the right bleed out procedures. I hope its nothing simple like connectors or anything like that.

[rusty_g80]

Originally Posted by eflores07081978

I did have the cap on, as for the parts the thermostat is new but the water pump was used but was supposed to be in working order. yes coolant does spit out.

Used pump was a bad idea. My old pump was not completely dead, it would still pump, but I'm guessing it had problems building up enough pressure to keep the system happy. It would still spin and I could even do the bleeding procedure.

[eflores07081978]

Originally Posted by rusty_g80

Used pump was a bad idea. My old pump was not completely dead, it would still pump, but I'm guessing it had problems building up enough pressure to keep the system happy. It would still spin and I could even do the bleeding procedure.

I am thinking the same but was not my call, I think a new pump should have been the way to go to eliminate the what if factor on it.

[longhorn335]

Originally Posted by EASTCOASTNINJA

to be totally honest i left that top bolt off, and so far no issues. this weekend im about to inspect to see if there was any issues with me taking this risk. and i used my same bolts and everything.

And to the fellow having overheat issues still. Idk what it could be if all your parts are new and you did the right bleed out procedures. I hope its nothing simple like connectors or anything like that.

thanks for the input east coast ninja. so far no pump issues to report (knock on wood)

[EASTCOASTNINJA]

Originally Posted by longhorn335

thanks for the input east coast ninja. so far no pump issues to report (knock on wood)

no prob man, yea i have had no issues either and im running the Turner Motorsport Pump and thermostat. car is running like a champ. if you need anymore help just let me know

[omerfar23]

dumb question, I am about to do the water pump change,

1. If I am replacing the WP I shouldn't have flush all the coolant via radiator bleed since when I will disconnect the WP hoses all the coolant should splash out??

2. I read some conflicting things on this forum, some said that the stat comes out before WP, i don't think that correct? or is it? I am only asking since I am only planning to replace my WP. please clarify someone.


thanks in advance.

[EASTCOASTNINJA]

[QUOTE=omerfar23;12072204]dumb question, I am about to do the water pump change,

1. If I am replacing the WP I shouldn't have flush all the coolant via radiator bleed since when I will disconnect the WP hoses all the coolant should splash out??

2. I read some conflicting things on this forum, some said that the stat comes out before WP, i don't think that correct? or is it? I am only asking since I am only planning to replace my WP. please clarify someone.


thanks in advance.

First off did ur pump go out or was it starting to or are u doing it before it does? Because if it is already done then u need a new thermostat. If u are just doing it before it goes out then ok. And no the pump can come out before the thermostat. U are just going to undo the two hex bolts holding the stat to the pump. And as for the bleeding out. I just too the hoses off and let that shit splash away into s bucket. Then I squeezed both sides of the hoses to the radiator to pump out the juices.

[omerfar23]

[QUOTE=EASTCOASTNINJA;12072397]

Originally Posted by omerfar23

dumb question, I am about to do the water pump change,

1. If I am replacing the WP I shouldn't have flush all the coolant via radiator bleed since when I will disconnect the WP hoses all the coolant should splash out??

2. I read some conflicting things on this forum, some said that the stat comes out before WP, i don't think that correct? or is it? I am only asking since I am only planning to replace my WP. please clarify someone.


thanks in advance.

First off did ur pump go out or was it starting to or are u doing it before it does? Because if it is already done then u need a new thermostat. If u are just doing it before it goes out then ok. And no the pump can come out before the thermostat. U are just going to undo the two hex bolts holding the stat to the pump. And as for the bleeding out. I just too the hoses off and let that shit splash away into s bucket. Then I squeezed both sides of the hoses to the radiator to pump out the juices.

thanks for the response. well my pump has gone out intermittently and the car goes into limp mode. It has only happened twice but I been doing a lot of reading on this forum to know that the WP is the issue.

As per our guy in another thread (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=347412&page=2 = see post#24) I checked to see if the stat or the pump and it seems to me it is only the WP. No offense just curiousity why do you say that the stat has to be replaced if the WP has gone bad? I know it would wise and time-saving to replace them in pair but is it truly necessary?

[EASTCOASTNINJA]

[QUOTE=omerfar23;12074307]

Originally Posted by EASTCOASTNINJA

thanks for the response. well my pump has gone out intermittently and the car goes into limp mode. It has only happened twice but I been doing a lot of reading on this forum to know that the WP is the issue.

As per our guy in another thread (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=347412&page=2 = see post#24) I checked to see if the stat or the pump and it seems to me it is only the WP. No offense just curiousity why do you say that the stat has to be replaced if the WP has gone bad? I know it would wise and time-saving to replace them in pair but is it truly necessary?

Ok well then that means that u need to buy that thermostat. Or else u run the chance of destroying the water pump that u just got.

[viperE90drvr]

Originally Posted by JamesUKE92

Hi txusa, INPA is just BMW's official diagnostics software - similar to the error code displays in your thread - although yours look a bit different.

All I was saying is that I got hold of my own copy of INPA since I replaced the pump, and noticed that all the error codes for the water pump failure were in there - just like for your thread.

My surprise was merely that our cars have a "Check Control" thing that returns the comforting "Check OK" message even when the ECU knows some very specific information about a serious engine fault.

I would have expected some error message / MIL (Malfunction Indication Lamp) beyond the generic "I'm feeling rather hot today".

Luckily my water pump has been fine so far since I replaced it...

2006 325i 117,000 miles exact same symptoms and scenario...Tischer tstat / pump /bolt kit on the way.

Is it critical or necessary to have cleared the pump fail codes from the ECU prior to powering the new pump? I do not have a code reader capability other than OBDII.

Will the Bav Tech

[omvijoca]

Log entry. At 106,000 miles the 2007 BMW 328xi left me stranded. Amber then red overtemp warning. Cost: $1450 at an independent BMW shop for waterpump and thermostat.

This kind of thing really makes me mad at BMW engineers. Really? Electric water pump. In a super inaccessible location.

My next car will not be a German POS. I ran from VW (electronic nightmare on Tourag), V-6 engine failure on a 2007 Audi A4.

It will be Japanese from this point forward. Sorry BMW fans.

[EASTCOASTNINJA]

Originally Posted by omvijoca

Log entry. At 106,000 miles the 2007 BMW 328xi left me stranded. Amber then red overtemp warning. Cost: $1450 at an independent BMW shop for waterpump and thermostat.

This kind of thing really makes me mad at BMW engineers. Really? Electric water pump. In a super inaccessible location.

My next car will not be a German POS. I ran from VW (electronic nightmare on Tourag), V-6 engine failure on a 2007 Audi A4.

It will be Japanese from this point forward. Sorry BMW fans.

To each his own, I was left in the side of I-95 and had to tow my car with a tow strap for 260 miles back home then paid 670$ in parts and did it myself. I just had to suck it up.

[Chriztofor]

Parts dont last a lifetime. Water-pump going at 100k is normal with any car. Wish it would give a better heads up, but if you are that concerned then change it every 75k which is about every 6-7 years.

[BKV122]

Anyone know the size of the external torx bolts that hold the WP and t-stat?

[fenixxishot]

Originally Posted by BKV122

Anyone know the size of the external torx bolts that hold the WP and t-stat?

Any update on this I would like to make sure I buy the right tools.

[JDM2BMW]

Anyone know if there is a heat shield that needs to be removed in this process? I recently had my WP & TS replaced and now have a rattle at low rpms that sounds exactly like a heat shield. I got under there but everything seems tight.
annoying.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by fenixxishot

Any update on this I would like to make sure I buy the right tools.

Just saw this. On the N52 the T-stat bolts are 10MM heads. The WP bolts are E-10.

[fenixxishot]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Just saw this. On the N52 the T-stat bolts are 10MM heads. The WP bolts are E-10.

I ended up just buying the whole damn set because I wasn't sure and I used the E12 I don't know if it was necessary to go that big its just the first one that fit that didn't slip so the E10 may also work as well I have the left over bolts so I will check and get back.

I do want to make a list of the required tools to get this job done as we have pics and a pretty good list of what is needed one of these weeks I am going to take the set of instructions in a previous post and combine with my experience and pics and completed this damn DIY.

You will need these tools to do the job:
3/8 ratchet or similar
10MM socket
5in extension
swivel socket (to get the top bolt on the WP)
8MM socket
and what ever socket is required to get the sway bar off maybe 12MM?
piece of rope also makes this job much easier and is explained in a previous post.
flat head screw driver preferably one long and one short
and I used a 6mm wrench but I don't recall what for.(just remembered one of the screw claps was in an area I could not get a flat head screw driver or ratchet but I could get a small 6MM wrench to turn the screw bolt and loosen the clap)
A pair of pliers
bucket to empty coolant in
funnel to add coolant back
plus ramps or jack and stands...
and patience.
What else am I forgetting?

Overall this is not an impossible or really even all that difficult. If you are experienced in auto work you can probably do this in 3 hours if not or if you like to take your time closer to five. The only hard part at all for me was getting those high tech clip clamps off the thermostat was a bit of bitch but just keep working it and will will slip right off or right in.

[fenixxishot]

Oh an my water pump failed at 65K if anyone wanted to know

[monkey_wrench]

I did mine yesterday, in about 2.5 hours, from start to finish.

Really not that hard, changing the starter is a bigger pain in the ass...