[kazbek1]

I installed the Joying JY-BO124N3 Android head unit which works great. The problem I'm having is on start up, the car is displaying metric units on the dash/climate controls. To fix this, I have to go into the head unit settings and change to imperial/American units which will then display the correct units on the dash/climate control. The headunit itself always displays the correct Imperial units (mph, F, etc). I contacted the manufacturer who said it wasn't possible to permanently change through the head unit. The Eunavi Android head unit in my Toyota doesn't have this problem so I'm assuming the problem is with the BMW. Note: I have the Avin MOST fiber optic interface installed to allow audio through my Logic7 system. I doubt this is the issue but figured I'd throw it out there anyways.

I did a review on the head unit and show this problem at 3:23:

[scanspeak]

Do you have permanent 12V connected?

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by scanspeak

Do you have permanent 12V connected?

Hmmmmm, I think I do. It should be the yellow wire I'm assuming. I'll have to check but in the meantime, would a permanent 12V connection fix the problem?

[scanspeak]

I would expect so.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by scanspeak

I would expect so.

So this is what I'm working with:



Colored the path of the 12v yellow wire (starting from the right) to help identify it a little easier:

Yellow: 12v going from the headunit to the fuse box (circled in blue)
Red: 12v splits. One side connects to the canbus (grey). The other goes to the factory module thing (box with foam on it)
Brown: 12v from the module runs behind the dash into the unkown.
Green: 12v pigtailed to the MOST interface which allows the fiber optic wires from the Logic7 system to produce audio.

How do I verify that the 12v is connected to a constant power source? I've read that people normally run the 12v wire to the battery or to a constant power fuse but I don't know how to do that because it looks like the 12v is already connected to everything (I dont see a lose end of the wire where I could run it to the battery/fuse box).

[techy101]

I've been working on this with Joying as well. The issue seems to be that it issues a reset over CAN to the trip computer that sets the units back to the metric defaults. Having the power wire connected directly to the battery (or any other constant power source) allows it to turn on almost instantly, skipping the boot-up process that causes this issue. That's why they make the yellow wire so long, so it can be cut and run back to the trunk. But I got the same answer from them about not being able to change the units, which I call BS on because you most certainly can, they're just not persistent.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by techy101

I've been working on this with Joying as well. The issue seems to be that it issues a reset over CAN to the trip computer that sets the units back to the metric defaults. Having the power wire connected directly to the battery (or any other constant power source) allows it to turn on almost instantly, skipping the boot-up process that causes this issue. That's why they make the yellow wire so long, so it can be cut and run back to the trunk. But I got the same answer from them about not being able to change the units, which I call BS on because you most certainly can, they're just not persistent.

Wait, this is great! Someone finally understands the problem I'm having. So where should I cut the yellow wire in reference to the picture I posted?

[techy101]

Originally Posted by kazbek1

Wait, this is great! Someone finally understands the problem I'm having. So where should I cut the yellow wire in reference to the picture I posted?

You would cut it right where it comes out of the factory connector. Make sure to leave enough wire that you could hook it back up if necessary. Then you'd run the long wire from the Joying connector back to the battery. You should put a fuse on the wire near the battery too.

I just posted a review of my new unit and talk about this problem, demonstrating it and the behavior if you have it hooked up to the battery instead. The pertinent sections starts at 23:16

I'm also working on an install video that covers this, but it's going to be a week or so before I can get it done.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by techy101

You would cut it right where it comes out of the factory connector. Make sure to leave enough wire that you could hook it back up if necessary. Then you'd run the long wire from the Joying connector back to the battery. You should put a fuse on the wire near the battery too.

I just posted a review of my new unit and talk about this problem, demonstrating it and the behavior if you have it hooked up to the battery instead. The pertinent sections starts at 23:16

I'm also working on an install video that covers this, but it's going to be a week or so before I can get it done.

Yea I was just watching it. I wish I had known about the unit that has the physical knobs! Great review too, man. So just to be clear, using the picture as a reference, I'll cut the 12v wire at the factory connector (the one at the top of the picture with the foam on it) and leave a little excess in case I need to splice it back. Then I'll run that to the battery and connect a fuse? How do you add a fuse near the battery? Also, if the 12v goes right to the battery, is there risk of parasitic draw? Sorry, I'm not too knowledgeable with automotive electronics but I really appreciate your advice!

[techy101]

Originally Posted by kazbek1

Yea I was just watching it. I wish I had known about the unit that has the physical knobs! Great review too, man. So just to be clear, using the picture as a reference, I'll cut the 12v wire at the factory connector (the one at the top of the picture with the foam on it) and leave a little excess in case I need to splice it back. Then I'll run that to the battery and connect a fuse? How do you add a fuse near the battery? Also, if the 12v goes right to the battery, is there risk of parasitic draw? Sorry, I'm not too knowledgeable with automotive electronics but I really appreciate your advice!

I'm glad you liked it. It's kinda' absurdly long but I really wanted to get into all the details because reviews I saw often left lots of stuff out. Feel free to like/comment

As for the wiring, yes it would be the stupid-long yellow 12V wire that you'd cut near the factory harness (the one with foam) then run back to the battery. Do some searching for how to install a car audio amplifier and you should find some info on adding fuses, but you can get simple inline fuses at any auto parts store that you'd just splice in. As for parasitic draw, yes it could be a thing but I don't imagine it's much. I haven't gotten around to putting a meter in there to see what it actually is yet but that's a massive battery for a small device.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by techy101

I'm glad you liked it. It's kinda' absurdly long but I really wanted to get into all the details because reviews I saw often left lots of stuff out. Feel free to like/comment

As for the wiring, yes it would be the stupid-long yellow 12V wire that you'd cut near the factory harness (the one with foam) then run back to the battery. Do some searching for how to install a car audio amplifier and you should find some info on adding fuses, but you can get simple inline fuses at any auto parts store that you'd just splice in. As for parasitic draw, yes it could be a thing but I don't imagine it's much. I haven't gotten around to putting a meter in there to see what it actually is yet but that's a massive battery for a small device.

Thanks so much man. I actually like in depth you got with all of the different function, setting, apps, and problems. It's reassuring for potential buyers to see reviews like that.

I've never added a fuse so I'll look into how to do that. Doesn't seem too difficult. Maybe I missed it in the video, but did you run the 12v wire back to your battery and add the fuse or do you just know that it'll solve the problem?

[techy101]

Originally Posted by kazbek1

Thanks so much man. I actually like in depth you got with all of the different function, setting, apps, and problems. It's reassuring for potential buyers to see reviews like that.

I've never added a fuse so I'll look into how to do that. Doesn't seem too difficult. Maybe I missed it in the video, but did you run the 12v wire back to your battery and add the fuse or do you just know that it'll solve the problem?

I'm working on an install video for what I did, but I'm waiting for the replacement parts to come from Joying so it'll be fair. But yes, I did run back to the battery.

[techy101]

I have a few more questions and/or concerns that I found while going through the whole review process and wanted to get your input on them:

1. To follow-up on my previous concern about the head unit resetting the car’s metric/imperial units, I have gone into more detail about it in the video at time 23:16, demonstrating that you can change the units of the head unit via the Car Info app and that they correctly synchronize between the car and the head unit. Yet at reboot this appears to issue a full reset to the trip computer’s metric/imperial unit settings. This occurs part-way through boot so is clearly related to some part of the head unit’s initialization routines. Others have expressed frustration at this behavior as well and, while I understand that you say the default units of the device are metric and cannot be changed, this is an issue that really needs to be addressed. It does not occur on other competing units, so it doesn’t have to happen on this one. Can you please have your developers address this problem as it is something that I believe can, and does, keep people from purchasing your devices.

Sorry, some functions on the car info are useless. that is the original design. maybe will be improved in the feature.

2. The issue we discussed earlier with media pausing then restarting at the phone volume when switching over to the Phone app has continued to be a problem and occurs with more than just Pandora. I have had it happen with Youtube Music, Pandora, Google Play Music, and XM Radio app. You are correct that it does not happen with the Joying native apps, but it would be appreciated if this can be addressed. This is shown at 33:52 in the video.

The No.2 problem has discussed before. maybe it will be improved in the future.

3. Is it possible to change the app which is launched when pressing the “Music” button on the left of the unit?

Do you mean that you want the customize the button function?

4. Is there a way to use more advanced Bluetooth audio streaming codec’s such as APTx HD or LDAC to really take advantage of the Bluetooth 5.1 integration? This is addressed at 20:37 in the video.

For the bluetooth code which originally designed by our engineer, that it can not be changed.

5. I did not mention it in the video, but when pairing/synchronizing the phone it causes the google contacts in my phone to be deleted. This is a big issue for those who do not have backups of the contacts.

• Go to joying settings
• Go to user/account
• Click on your account name (email) and then click on "Account sync" just below account name, this will open a new menu.
• There you can disable contacts sync option.

6. Another issue, in the Bluetooth devices list, my phone is still paired but disappears from the list of devices after a reboot, however it still works. This is mentioned at 22:00 in the video.

Though the phone devices disappeared, the bluetooth connecting still workable between you and your head unit will be fine.

7. Also in Bluetooth, is there a way to allow the unit to pair with devices other than phones or your OBD reader? I am unable to pair either of my other two OBD readers with the system however they work with every other Android device I have. This is mentioned at 22:05 in the video.

Our head unit only can be compatible with ELM 327 OBD2 model. other brands cannot be workable.

8. While in Android Auto pressing the Phone button on the unit or on the steering wheel causes the phone to immediately redial the last called phone number. It does not take you to the native phone app or the phone app in Android Auto. This is another significant concern as it makes it very easy to make unintentional calls. This is mentioned at 51:28 in the video.

For the android auto problem, whether this problem will be occurred if you use the default bluetooth interface?

• I sent THIS video to them this morning to follow-up further.

9. The voice from Android Auto is distorted significantly. Is there a fix for this? This can be seen at 52:00 in the video.

For the sound distorted, do you mean that the sound you hear or others?

10. What does the “Power Conditioning” setting under Settings->Device do?

Power-conditioning is for volume adjustment.

[kazbek1]

Damn, yea there are definitely some issues. One big thing that I get is randomly, immediately upon start up, an ear piercing ring comes from the speakers at max volume. I have to restart the car and then it'll go away upon startup. Most of the times this doesn't happen and it just happens randomly. i have no idea why. Any idea what it could be?

[techy101]

Originally Posted by kazbek1

Damn, yea there are definitely some issues. One big thing that I get is randomly, immediately upon start up, an ear piercing ring comes from the speakers at max volume. I have to restart the car and then it'll go away upon startup. Most of the times this doesn't happen and it just happens randomly. i have no idea why. Any idea what it could be?

Whoa! Weird... I've not had anything like that happen. It's coming from the speakers, not from the middle of the dash?

I'd contact Joying and share the video with them.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by techy101

Whoa! Weird... I've not had anything like that happen. It's coming from the speakers, not from the middle of the dash?

I'd contact Joying and share the video with them.

I'm pretty sure it's coming from the speakers. I did contact them but they keep saying it has to do with the BMW. I've searched everywhere for this issue, even non-BMWs, and have found nothing. Oh well, guess it's something I just need to live with. I'd say it happens on every 10th start or so. Have you been able to fix any of your problems? Has Joying replied with a little bit more than 1-sentence responses?

[techy101]

Originally Posted by kazbek1

I'm pretty sure it's coming from the speakers. I did contact them but they keep saying it has to do with the BMW. I've searched everywhere for this issue, even non-BMWs, and have found nothing. Oh well, guess it's something I just need to live with. I'd say it happens on every 10th start or so. Have you been able to fix any of your problems? Has Joying replied with a little bit more than 1-sentence responses?

Unfortunately I've not gotten them to make any changes, however I have found a few useful things on XDA. There's an apk that lets you remap the buttons! I changed mine so the Music button now takes me to Android Auto, however you can make it do your app of choice.

I also took some measurements of mine on the bench and can confidently say that there's no worry about significant parasitic power drain when it's hooked directly up to the battery.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by techy101

Unfortunately I've not gotten them to make any changes, however I have found a few useful things on XDA. There's an apk that lets you remap the buttons! I changed mine so the Music button now takes me to Android Auto, however you can make it do your app of choice.

I also took some measurements of mine on the bench and can confidently say that there's no worry about significant parasitic power drain when it's hooked directly up to the battery.

Wow, you've been such a great help! I was wondering if I was the only one who couldn't custom program the steering wheel buttons. I'm definitely going to load that APK. And that's good news about no parasitic draw. Still doing a little research on how to add the fuse but I'm not in too much of a rush right now. Again, thanks so much for teaching me how to do all of this.

[techy101]

Originally Posted by kazbek1

Wow, you've been such a great help! I was wondering if I was the only one who couldn't custom program the steering wheel buttons. I'm definitely going to load that APK. And that's good news about no parasitic draw. Still doing a little research on how to add the fuse but I'm not in too much of a rush right now. Again, thanks so much for teaching me how to do all of this.

No problem. I've actually got the thing torn apart on my bench right now and hooked up to an oscilloscope to try and find the source of the slight static noise when the thing isn't muted. I'm not sure if I'll be able to solve it, but I have a few thoughts and some shielding material coming tomorrow. If I can make it better I'll make a video on it too.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by techy101

No problem. I've actually got the thing torn apart on my bench right now and hooked up to an oscilloscope to try and find the source of the slight static noise when the thing isn't muted. I'm not sure if I'll be able to solve it, but I have a few thoughts and some shielding material coming tomorrow.

Oh that's good. I haven't noticed that on mine luckily but I'd rather that than that screech I experience. I'm wondering if wiring that 12v to the battery will fix it. Also, for the APK, should I download all 3 attachments and transfer that onto a USB to connect to the head unit?

[techy101]

Just the .apk file. Transfer it to the internal memory using the file manager program then run it.

[kazbek1]

Originally Posted by techy101

Just the .apk file. Transfer it to the internal memory using the file manager program then run it.

Sounds good. I'll give that a shot. Don't be surprised when I'm back on here asking how to properly extinguish an electrical fire.