[ska///235i]

man you guys are crazy doing all that work for steering fluid...just suck out fluid from reservior with a fluid extractor and refill, then start the car and turn steering left-right...repeat (3 times) until you use the entire bottle of ch11s. Do this every 30k-40k miles and you're golden. I also replaced the reservor cap with a new one that has a o-ring. My 2006 e90 stock cap didnt have the o-ring and it had alot residual on the cap...highly recommend if your cap do not have o-ring.

I use this oil suction gun...works like a charm. One pull and all the fluid was out of the reservior

http://www.harborfreight.com/oil-suction-gun-95468.html

[Zero_09]

Originally Posted by mthomas

I modified the original approach as I could not envision how to do it without making a complete mess of the vehicle and garage floor. I think this is actually the e46 method referenced by the OP in his posting.

Less messy technique:

Lift front of vehicle. Please do this safely.

Remove plastic underbody, air box, and air intake duct from in front of engine to aid access.

Release the tension on the serpentine belt, and move it out of the way to improve access and prevent getting any oil on to it. This is a great time to do maintenance in this area as well.

Completely drain the reservoir with your suction device of choice. Get down behind the filter to minimize mess in the next step. I got about 250 ml out, it was a little bit low to start.

Remove the banjo bolt at the bottom of the PS pump. I removed by reaching in from above. This allowed me to place some aluminum foil, prior to opening the bolt, below and channel the fluid forward and into a container with a funnel on top, with minimal mess. It is also an easy bolt to access, and retighten.

Turning the steering wheel repeatedly from stop to stop for about five or ten minutes will pump fluid up to the reservoir, which will then drain down to the pump and out the bottom. I also used a small syringe to again fully empty the reservoir. I was able to get another 450 ml of fluid out.

Replace the banjo bolt and line, use new crush washers.

Degrease any pulleys that might have been contaminated, then replaced serpentine belt.

I refilled with 700 ml of fluid. This takes a little while, turn the steering wheel, start and stop the engine, etc. Ignored the horrible noises, got the air out and ran the engine for a while, then emptied the reservoir again and refilled with the remaining 300 ml in the can.

Assuming a 1 liter capacity (complete guess), this means the first flush left 30% old fluid, and the second, reservoir only, flush got it down to about 22% old fluid. Looks much better, but I wish there was a way to get all the fluid out. Using the easier drain reservoir and refill method, five cycles should get you to the same place, but would require 1.25 liters of fluid.Hope this helps someone. Sorry no pics, there are plenty of them above. The PS pump is right above the rack and to the front. Just trace the lines.

This is one of the reason I'd rather not drained it this way. If I have to take out the air box, air intake duct, and serpentine belt to prevent from making a mess than I think I'd go the turkey baster route.

[GOS7]

I wanted to revive this thread for one, it has been very informative and helpful. Secondly my cap says use ATF only, so I planned on picking up Castrol ATF, but how can I be sure that ATF is whats currently in the system and not CHF? Just cautious of this since CHF and ATF CANNOT be mixed.

[duaux]

Originally Posted by Ghos7N54

I wanted to revive this thread for one, it has been very informative and helpful. Secondly my cap says use ATF only, so I planned on picking up Castrol ATF, but how can I be sure that ATF is whats currently in the system and not CHF? Just cautious of this since CHF and ATF CANNOT be mixed.

Unfortunately, you can not be "certain".

My mechanic based it on "his experience", looking at the colour and smelling it. He basically also told me that "he is 100% certain" that all E90 came with CHF for power steering and that my car just "lost the green sticker".

***WARNING*** I am not telling you to following me... experience may differ!

For me, I trusted him and he flushed it with CHF (full drain and fill). It has been 2 years and my car is fine.

[GOS7]

Originally Posted by duaux

Unfortunately, you can not be "certain".

My mechanic based it on "his experience", looking at the colour and smelling it. He basically also told me that "he is 100% certain" that all E90 came with CHF for power steering and that my car just "lost the green sticker".

***WARNING*** I am not telling you to following me... experience may differ!

For me, I trusted him and he flushed it with CHF (full drain and fill). It has been 2 years and my car is fine.

You just happened to be right anyways

Just talked to an old buddy that works at BMW of San Antonio and he looked it up and did confirm that my 2007 E90 335i does require CHF 11. Thanks!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Sexyjen

My car needs power steering fluid. 2007 335i. I've heard 2 separate brands to try but not sure which one. Anyone know which i am supposed to use?

I just used a brake vac and had a buddy of mine turn on the car with the front end on Jack stands. He turned the car on and turned the wheel several times while I sucked out the old chs11.

I put AMSOIL ATF back in. We poured the new AMSOIL in while the car was still on and turned the wheel several times to make the pump suck the new ATF in. We did this until the pump stopped whining and the level of the fluid remained constant in the reservoir.

We then used the brake vac to suck out the new ATF out, in the same manner described above, which was not a nice red color due to it mixing with the residual CHS11 remaining in the system.

We then put more AMSOIL ATF back in the system in the same manner described above.

Presto - bright red fluid.

You should change out the power steering fluid every 50k or your probability of changing out a new power steering pump after 100k gets greater.

Last time I checked that part is not cheap.

[speedball73]

Anybody agree with me that the RealOEM diagram in this link http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=32_1569 and the photos on page 1 of this tutorial don't match?

It seems to me that the power steering lines going into the rack are installed the other way (banjo bolt on the bottom). I've looked at this a few times, starting to drive myself crazy so I wanted to check with you guys!

-speedball

[b1mmr]

Will a flush make steering a little easier? One thing I'm not crazy about with this car is the firmness of the steering wheel. E90 08 335xi

[VP-jiminy]

Hi guys! Not sure if anyone's still following this thread, but what do you think of the following, even less messier, method for a full flush? This one does not involve removing the banjo bolt or the plastic underpanel at all!

1. Remove the airbox

2. Suck out the fluid from the reservoir

3. Unscrew reservoir from its bracket/attachments

4. Remove the crimp clamps and detach the two hoses at the bottom of the reservoir

5. Dump any old PS fluid that comes out of the lower portion of the reservoir (under the filter) and out of the hoses into a catchpan that you place where the airbox was

6. Install a new reservoir (since you can't change the filter in the old one as it is integrated into the reservoir) and reattach & tighten only the high-pressure line to the cooler, but leave the return line unattached for now.

7. Fill fresh fluid in the new reservoir and turn engine on. (I suppose you could use a floor jack at this point to raise the car just enough to clear the tires off the ground so as not to stress the PS pump)

8. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock intermittently in between pouring fresh fluid in the reservoir as the PS pump circulates old fluid out of the system via the unattached return line, dumping it into the catchpan.

9. When you see that the fluid coming out of the return hose into your catchpan is the fresh light green variety unlike the dirty kind, you know you've flushed out the vast majority, if not all of, the PS fluid.

10. Turn the engine off and attach/clamp the return line to the reservoir. Tighten the reservoir to the bracket and body in its final position.

11. Top up the reservoir as needed, tighten cap, and turn on engine and steering wheel lock-to-lock to purge any remaining air.

12. Get rid of the catchpan and reinstall airbox.

Voilà!! )

Any thoughts?

[VP-jiminy]

Vipi?!! Noone?!

[SilverStreak18]

Originally Posted by VP-jiminy

Hi guys! Not sure if anyone's still following this thread, but what do you think of the following, even less messier, method for a full flush? This one does not involve removing the banjo bolt or the plastic underpanel at all!

1. Remove the airbox

2. Suck out the fluid from the reservoir

3. Unscrew reservoir from its bracket/attachments

4. Remove the crimp clamps and detach the two hoses at the bottom of the reservoir

5. Dump any old PS fluid that comes out of the lower portion of the reservoir (under the filter) and out of the hoses into a catchpan that you place where the airbox was

6. Install a new reservoir (since you can't change the filter in the old one as it is integrated into the reservoir) and reattach & tighten only the high-pressure line to the cooler, but leave the return line unattached for now.

7. Fill fresh fluid in the new reservoir and turn engine on. (I suppose you could use a floor jack at this point to raise the car just enough to clear the tires off the ground so as not to stress the PS pump)

8. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock intermittently in between pouring fresh fluid in the reservoir as the PS pump circulates old fluid out of the system via the unattached return line, dumping it into the catchpan.

9. When you see that the fluid coming out of the return hose into your catchpan is the fresh light green variety unlike the dirty kind, you know you've flushed out the vast majority, if not all of, the PS fluid.

10. Turn the engine off and attach/clamp the return line to the reservoir. Tighten the reservoir to the bracket and body in its final position.

11. Top up the reservoir as needed, tighten cap, and turn on engine and steering wheel lock-to-lock to purge any remaining air.

12. Get rid of the catchpan and reinstall airbox.

Voilà!! )

Any thoughts?

Sorry man this makes wayyy too much sense for this thread.

[poggy]

Just thought it might be worth checking bmwfans.info - for a EU 318i at least, the CHF11.S label (pt no. 71*21*2*122*171) says its for 'vehicles with cold climate version'

[Toakenspy]

Originally Posted by duaux

OK. So I was planning to do the DIY, but I just don't have time...

I bought all the ATF fluid, washers, along with other maintenance items I have been queuing, etc and brought it to a local indy BMW mech (sponsor here on e90post), and found out that my fluid needs 11S and not ATF fluid... WTF?

My cap says ATF fluid

My Indy Mechanic (who is a BMW trained mech):
The mechanic's analysis is that the cap is "wrong" based on two things:
1. His experience tells him that all the E90's he has dealt with in the Toronto area have a "green sticker saying 11S" that goes on top of the "ATF cap". Mine did not have the sticker, that is why I brought him a bottle of ATF fluid.

He also noted this his own two race cars, 2006 E90's are 11S for the power steering.

2. He also assured me that he took some fluid out to "look at it" and he says it is 11S "without a doubt". Based on years of use, the sticker could/would have "come off" of the cap.

Please mind you my conversation was over the phone.
I told him I would call him back to see if I can confirm with the dealership. I was hoping that just *maybe the dealer could confirm via the VIN or something.

Dealership:
1. They can not confirm the power steering fluid type my car via VIN#.
2. They did confirm that E90's do come in both 11S (about 90%) and ATF (about 10%) giving me a round number off his head.

My Indy Mechanic:
1. I called him back, and he reassures me that he is very confident that it requires 11S and not ATF.
2. I should trust him right? I made the call to have him flush it fully using OEM 11S fluid.

FINGERS CROSS I hope this does not damage my power steering system...

Did I just make a mistake? I am kind of worried now, but the mechanic has more experience than us on this forum right?

:::EDIT:::
I found this thread which has good pictures showing the 11S sticker...
This makes me feel better!
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=12233031

I think the CAUTION I am trying to share with everyone... it is not as simple as looking at the power steering cap.

Be careful.

I actually agree this would make perfect sense. Every single BMW power steering reservoir I have ever seen (and I've seen many) have ATF ONLY stamped on the cap. I think perhaps even BMW may have not realised that ATF in some countries may not translate well into english speaking countries. I shall be flushing my PS fluid tonight using http://www.commaoil.com/commercial-v...ducts/view/221 so I shall let you know how I get on.

[DaddyP]

Hi guys, I just joined the forum, I'm located in RSA. I own 320i E90 and I'm experiencing the similar issue with my power steering cap, its written ATF only, not so sure if the green sticker fell off along the way...I asked the dealer and they asked for VIN number and said they can't pick up which fluid to use but either ATF or CHF.

I called my local dealer and they said they have one called LHM...does anyone recommend this product?

[DaddyP]

Originally Posted by VP-jiminy

Hi guys! Not sure if anyone's still following this thread, but what do you think of the following, even less messier, method for a full flush? This one does not involve removing the banjo bolt or the plastic underpanel at all!

1. Remove the airbox

2. Suck out the fluid from the reservoir

3. Unscrew reservoir from its bracket/attachments

4. Remove the crimp clamps and detach the two hoses at the bottom of the reservoir

5. Dump any old PS fluid that comes out of the lower portion of the reservoir (under the filter) and out of the hoses into a catchpan that you place where the airbox was

6. Install a new reservoir (since you can't change the filter in the old one as it is integrated into the reservoir) and reattach & tighten only the high-pressure line to the cooler, but leave the return line unattached for now.

7. Fill fresh fluid in the new reservoir and turn engine on. (I suppose you could use a floor jack at this point to raise the car just enough to clear the tires off the ground so as not to stress the PS pump)

8. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock intermittently in between pouring fresh fluid in the reservoir as the PS pump circulates old fluid out of the system via the unattached return line, dumping it into the catchpan.

9. When you see that the fluid coming out of the return hose into your catchpan is the fresh light green variety unlike the dirty kind, you know you've flushed out the vast majority, if not all of, the PS fluid.

10. Turn the engine off and attach/clamp the return line to the reservoir. Tighten the reservoir to the bracket and body in its final position.

11. Top up the reservoir as needed, tighten cap, and turn on engine and steering wheel lock-to-lock to purge any remaining air.

12. Get rid of the catchpan and reinstall airbox.

Voilà!! )

Any thoughts?

Sound like a good method, do I need to replace the reservoir or can I do it without replacing it?

[oli3]

Originally Posted by ska///235i

Do this every 30k-40k miles and you're golden. I also replaced the reservor cap with a new one that has a o-ring. My 2006 e90 stock cap didnt have the o-ring and it had alot residual on the cap...highly recommend if your cap do not have o-ring.

You have a part number for the cap with the o-ring by any chance?

Originally Posted by DaddyP

Hi guys, I just joined the forum, I'm located in RSA. I own 320i E90 and I'm experiencing the similar issue with my power steering cap, its written ATF only, not so sure if the green sticker fell off along the way...I asked the dealer and they asked for VIN number and said they can't pick up which fluid to use but either ATF or CHF.

I called my local dealer and they said they have one called LHM...does anyone recommend this product?

I wouldn't go for LHM. It's most likely CHF, you can check your vin on http://www.realoem.com/

[Si335d]

Very helpful thread guys. I read over it a few times before I decided to change out the power steering fluid in my 2010 LCI 335d. I used a cheap siphon I bought from a cash and carry and used PENTISON CHF 11S as that is what was engraved into my power steering fluid reservoir. Didn't take long at all to complete and wasn't very messy either. My fluid was already low and I was hearing some odd sort of crunching and rubbing noises as I was parking the car sometimes so I was already to keen to take on this DIY. Thread helped me a bunch with confidence to do so. Also car feels alot smoother turning the wheel and the steering almost feels lighter. Haven't driven it around too much yet but there's definitely been a big change.

[bojo_ri]

Hi all
I read almost all of the post in the thread but I am still curious about one thing.
As opposed to either complete flush method or partial flush through reservoir I'm wondering if the methods can be combined.

Something along the lines of:

1. completely drain old fluid through "bleed screw"
2. pour new fluid in the reservoir and keep turning steering wheel just like you would to drain the system to allow the new fluid to reach the "bleed screw"
3. after the new fluid reaches the "bleed screw" just wind it back on and the system is basically prepped.

This method would just require two people, one to check when the new fluid reaches the bleed crew and one to keep turning the steering wheel until it does.

Thoughts?

[Blueeyesredpanda]

I have a xdrive the black banjo bolt is right above the subframe how did you guy have access to the bolts?

[GEOS07335i]

Originally Posted by AlanAZ

Crush washer (corrected): If you are draining per instructions on first post, you want #6, part number 07119906464 x2.

Fluid: provided your reservoir cap reads CHF-11S, this fluid on Amazon is the right one, but expensive with shipping. I bought it for $25 at the dealer.

1 liter. Read the first post.

Originally Posted by VP-jiminy

Hi guys! Not sure if anyone's still following this thread, but what do you think of the following, even less messier, method for a full flush? This one does not involve removing the banjo bolt or the plastic underpanel at all!

1. Remove the airbox

2. Suck out the fluid from the reservoir

3. Unscrew reservoir from its bracket/attachments

4. Remove the crimp clamps and detach the two hoses at the bottom of the reservoir

5. Dump any old PS fluid that comes out of the lower portion of the reservoir (under the filter) and out of the hoses into a catchpan that you place where the airbox was

6. Install a new reservoir (since you can't change the filter in the old one as it is integrated into the reservoir) and reattach & tighten only the high-pressure line to the cooler, but leave the return line unattached for now.

7. Fill fresh fluid in the new reservoir and turn engine on. (I suppose you could use a floor jack at this point to raise the car just enough to clear the tires off the ground so as not to stress the PS pump)

8. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock intermittently in between pouring fresh fluid in the reservoir as the PS pump circulates old fluid out of the system via the unattached return line, dumping it into the catchpan.

9. When you see that the fluid coming out of the return hose into your catchpan is the fresh light green variety unlike the dirty kind, you know you've flushed out the vast majority, if not all of, the PS fluid.

10. Turn the engine off and attach/clamp the return line to the reservoir. Tighten the reservoir to the bracket and body in its final position.

11. Top up the reservoir as needed, tighten cap, and turn on engine and steering wheel lock-to-lock to purge any remaining air.

12. Get rid of the catchpan and reinstall airbox.

Voilà!! )

Any thoughts?

I'm getting ready to do this and have bought a replacement reservoir. Makes perfect sense which line is the return line though? Definately a two person job. Anyone else try this method? Certainly beats having to take any banjo bolts off, replacing crush washers and you ensure you flush the complete system as you keep turning the wheel until fluid is clear green. Could be messy if the return line has a strong flow. Looking for feedback on this method. Seems like it's much better that the two previously mentioned methods.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by GEOS07335i

I'm getting ready to do this and have bought a replacement reservoir. Makes perfect sense which line is the return line though? Definately a two person job. Anyone else try this method? Certainly beats having to take any banjo bolts off, replacing crush washers and you ensure you flush the complete system as you keep turning the wheel until fluid is clear green. Could be messy if the return line has a strong flow. Looking for feedback on this method. Seems like it's much better that the two previously mentioned methods.

I think all of this is overkill. BMW doesn't even call for flushing the oil and replacing the reservoir (because it has a filter). Unless the steering rack has an internal failure and chews metal, which would drop metal particles into the hydraulic oil, the filter and reservoir is lifetime. Replacing the CHF-11 fluid of course is not going to hurt (unless you get dirt into the system when replacing it), but it is as effective and far easier to just open one banjo bolt and drain the system. I've done mine twice this way and haven't yet replaced a crush washer. I've replaced the fluid at 150,000 and 300,000 miles by draining through a banjo opening. Now, I did go a bit further by opening the hard line that transfers fluid from on side of the rack to the other and used very low pressure shop air to clear the line and rack but it holds so little fluid it's not worth stripping the holddown nut. And I have a lift, and really was just fucking around with it enjoying a day in the garage (i.e. wasting time). Just a few months ago I replaced the o-ring on the reservoir cap because it was slightly seeping.

You guys WAAAAAAAYYYYYY over maintain these cars. I have no idea how BMWs ever got to the point where owners think they need so much maintenance. It must be an internet thing. It's not a Space Shuttle for God's sake; it's just a car built with all the same materials and processes that every other car in the industry is built from. There's no magic to them.

If you really want to go crazy, remove the oil cooling hose and take it to a hydraulic line repair shop and have them cut the hose and install a fitting with a drain plug. You could then flush the steering system fluid at every oil change if you wanted. Hell, just have them make a new line with braided stainless steel to make it even look cool.

Save the money and wrench-time for the time something needs actual repair because it actually broke.

Ugh.

[GEOS07335i]

Totally disagree. I had a major juddering when I would turn the wheel left or right. Even ps fluid levels at normal 1) I had leaks from cap and under both hoses. Not sure but there was caked on ps fluid over these areas. I ordered new resavour kit with new clamps. I replaced it and flushed the old fluid out. And now I have no issues with juddering at all. So I fixed It was under 50 for everything from fcp euro.

I opened up one of the high pressure lines and moved the wheels back and fourth to flush out all the old fluid.