[BashShah]

Originally Posted by FaxData

Thanks so much to the OP and contributors to this thread, I finally managed to complete this DIY this weekend. My belt had been squeaking a little at idle after cold start for the last 10K miles or so. I figured that since I had just passed 100k miles, I should replace the belt, tensioner and pulleys (the horror stories of the belt getting sucked into the engine block terrified me).

I don't know why, there are plenty of youtube videos on changing the N52 belt but none on the N54... Actually, I know why - it's so much harder with that annoying air duct going from the air box to the turbo.

Unfortunately I also broke the coolant vent hose when unclipping it from the fan, and then the upper radiator hose nipple that connects to the vent hose. Getting that repaired cost more than the 2 hours of labor that the local indy shop quoted me for doing the belt and pulleys. Sigh.

In the end though, I found it very helpful to remove the radiator fan. I'm not sure this job could be done without removing it. The rubber grommet that attaches to clip on the air duct coming off the intercooler was a real pain. Every video I could find involved first draining the radiator and removing the intercooler, which I didn't want to do.

I look forward to not having to do this again for another 100k.

Glad it worked out for you.
Just paying it forward to the help this community provided me since 2012.

[Spun Crankhub]

Just want to chime in, fan comes out without needing to remove a single hose. Simply pull up and slightly back towards the block. I have done the job a handful of times, and have never even messed with rad hoses.

[FaxData]

Originally Posted by BlackMan

Just want to chime in, fan comes out without needing to remove a single hose. Simply pull up and slightly back towards the block. I have done the job a handful of times, and have never even messed with rad hoses.

My vent hose is directly clipped to the fan. I didn't need to remove it, but I did have to unclip it. Despite the warnings and unclipping it extremely gently, a small crack opened right where the rubber is clipped to the fan. Coolant leaked immediately after that... When replacing the vent hose, the connector on the upper radiator hose broke as the hose clamp was released.

Honestly the vent hose broke with so little pressure that I think it was inevitable.

[AndersS]

Cool Write up.:-)

Is it necessary to change upper and lower pulley? I understand with the tensioner but are the pulleys also failing?

[zort]

Does the n54 come with an automatic tensioner or you can adjust the tension ?

-B

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by AndersS

Cool Write up.:-)

Is it necessary to change upper and lower pulley? I understand with the tensioner but are the pulleys also failing?

the pulleys are free playing, and should spin freely.
I replaced them cause I was there, and it's like 10 GENEROUS mins to replace them and cost is cheap......so I thought it as a preventative maintenance item.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by zort

Does the n54 come with an automatic tensioner or you can adjust the tension ?

-B

Not sure what an Automatic Tensioner is, but there is no adjustment on these.
just spring loaded.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by FaxData

My vent hose is directly clipped to the fan. I didn't need to remove it, but I did have to unclip it. Despite the warnings and unclipping it extremely gently, a small crack opened right where the rubber is clipped to the fan. Coolant leaked immediately after that... When replacing the vent hose, the connector on the upper radiator hose broke as the hose clamp was released.

Honestly the vent hose broke with so little pressure that I think it was inevitable.

wait till you inspect your vacuum lines.
I was shocked to see where my leak was.
and extremely tight access to replace front turbo actuator vac line.

use high temp silicon vac lines, not rubber windshield washer lines.

[FaxData]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

wait till you inspect your vacuum lines.
I was shocked to see where my leak was.
and extremely tight access to replace front turbo actuator vac line.

use high temp silicon vac lines, not rubber windshield washer lines.

Hoping I don't have to replace vacuum lines for a while...

[zort]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

Not sure what an Automatic Tensioner is, but there is no adjustment on these.
just spring loaded.

Thanks. So you can't manually adjust the tension that is what i meant.
-B

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by zort

Thanks. So you can't manually adjust the tension that is what i meant.
-B

Nope...just curious why?

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by FaxData

Hoping I don't have to replace vacuum lines for a while...

you have 2007, inside the braided lines is bound to be damage or extreme brittle.
Do yourself a huge favor, replace them.
don't wait for it.

[najin23]

Originally Posted by FaxData

My vent hose is directly clipped to the fan. I didn't need to remove it, but I did have to unclip it. Despite the warnings and unclipping it extremely gently, a small crack opened right where the rubber is clipped to the fan. Coolant leaked immediately after that... When replacing the vent hose, the connector on the upper radiator hose broke as the hose clamp was released.

Honestly the vent hose broke with so little pressure that I think it was inevitable.

The exact thing just happened to me yesterday while I was removing my fan. The nipple on the upper radiator coolant hose that connects to the Vent hose which goes to the reservoir above the fan got snapped. At first I had a bad panic, but after calling a reputable bmw part dealer, I ordered necessary parts and expressed it. I basically decided to replace the Upper radiator coolant hose unit and the vent hose with a new crimping clamp. I am just glad that it happened in my garage. Has anyone done the job by the way? I heard it's very hard to pull the upper radiator hose from the radiator. It has a metal clip that you can simply unclip, but don't know how hard it would be to pull it. I guess I will find out.

[MakkkD]

Originally Posted by FaxData

My vent hose is directly clipped to the fan. I didn't need to remove it, but I did have to unclip it. Despite the warnings and unclipping it extremely gently, a small crack opened right where the rubber is clipped to the fan. Coolant leaked immediately after that... When replacing the vent hose, the connector on the upper radiator hose broke as the hose clamp was released.

Honestly the vent hose broke with so little pressure that I think it was inevitable.

Just wanted to comment on this -- great write up. Was looking into doing this a reading up all the DIYs the past few days. Long story short, not even a week or so later my belt starting squeaking and shredded. Had to get a tow to a local Goodyear and fork over 540$ for the belt and tension-er.

Do this ASAP. I had 106k and the belt started to show signs of wear via squeaking for less than 10days before I got cooked.

[minifridge1138]

Hmm... My bently manual says the torque spec for the Idler Pulley to Alternater is 80 NM. Anyone else find conflicting torque specs?

I could only find the torque spec by looking up the instructions for installing an alternator, the book doesn't explicitly cover removing/installing the tensioner and idler pulleys.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by minifridge1138

Hmm... My bently manual says the torque spec for the Idler Pulley to Alternater is 80 NM. Anyone else find conflicting torque specs?

I could only find the torque spec by looking up the instructions for installing an alternator, the book doesn't explicitly cover removing/installing the tensioner and idler pulleys.

my specs are directly from the dealer.
and since I posted this guide.... no issues so far.
don't over tighten it.....80nm....that's very high....wow.
that's almost wheel bolt torque spec for e90.

[minifridge1138]

Yeah, 80 NM seemed crazy to me. No idea where they got value.

Poking around on Bently's forums and they say 25NM for the idler pulley to alternator bolt on the N52 on a 530i (and they admit they had to dig around in BMW's tech sheets for that).

Thanks for your help!

[SoILBMW]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

Just open your hood, now as you stand in front of your car.
Look on the right side of the rad fan.
There is a release latch the you press toward the front of the car.
And a second clip or slide in rubber gromet.

Now as you look at the rad fan, try to picture it comming straight up without hitting anything. No way without removing a few hoses. You can't even get access to it.
Other than that, 2 t25 screws.
One on top left...face the hood.
One on the heat exchanger under the car. (This is where you would do coolant flush).

Will post pics in this thread by tomorrow.

DN

Needing some help here.
I'm not sure is something is different on the E93, but I cannot get the fan to come past the heat exchanger when pulling up. The heat exchanger wedges between the shroud and a couple of black solid metal lines at the bottom after it moves up about 2-3 inches, and will not lift any further.
The screw is removed from the heat exchanger to the shroud and the grommet on the air pipe is released. The shroud is unclipped on the driver side and the upper passenger side torx is removed.
Am I missing something??? This thing just will not lift any more on the driver side
Any help is much appreciated!!!

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by SoILBMW

Needing some help here.
I'm not sure is something is different on the E93, but I cannot get the fan to come past the heat exchanger when pulling up. The heat exchanger wedges between the shroud and a couple of black solid metal lines at the bottom after it moves up about 2-3 inches, and will not lift any further.
The screw is removed from the heat exchanger to the shroud and the grommet on the air pipe is released. The shroud is unclipped on the driver side and the upper passenger side torx is removed.
Am I missing something??? This thing just will not lift any more on the driver side
Any help is much appreciated!!!

On This Video at at 4:49 Time:
Is this Rubber Grommet releases or not?

also is the Tranny cooler catching the Rad Fan in any way or not.

3rd point: try pushing up from under the Car and then you will see exactly where it is getting Caught.

4th Point, once it is lifted 2 inches as you stated, lift left and then right only.
which side is caught?
If Memory serves, Mine was not coming past 2 inches also.
and I am sure it was either this rubber slide in grommet or the tranny cooler catching an edge of the rad fan.
but after pushing it from the bottom and seeing where it was catching helped.

let us know how it goes.

[SoILBMW]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

Is this Rubber Grommet releases or not?

also is the Tranny cooler catching the Rad Fan in any way or not.

3rd point: try pushing up from under the Car and then you will see exactly where it is getting Caught.

4th Point, once it is lifted 2 inches as you stated, lift left and then right only.
which side is caught?
If Memory serves, Mine was not coming past 2 inches also.
and I am sure it was either this rubber slide in grommet or the tranny cooler catching an edge of the rad fan.
but after pushing it from the bottom and seeing where it was catching helped.

let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the reply Dark!

1. Yes the rubber grommet is definitely released.

2. Yes it's the tranny cooler/heat exchanger that's catching on the shroud, not the fan itself

3. I see from underneath that the shroud is catching on the flared portion of it that accommodates the torx screw mount for the oil cooler, thus jamming the cooler between the shroud and the steel lines not allowing it to move upward further.

4. Yes, it's only catching on the right(driver) side. Definitely catching/wedging itself against the tranny cooler, it's well clear of the clip/grommet. I have tried pushing from the bottom as well, but with no luck.

I hate to use more force for fear of damaging it and/or not being able to get it back in, but that may be my only option at this point.

EDIT: I think I'll try taking out the intercooler and see if that buys me any space.

[BashShah]

Originally Posted by SoILBMW

Thanks for the reply Dark!

1. Yes the rubber grommet is definitely released.

2. Yes it's the tranny cooler/heat exchanger that's catching on the shroud, not the fan itself

3. I see from underneath that the shroud is catching on the flared portion of it that accommodates the torx screw mount for the oil cooler, thus jamming the cooler between the shroud and the steel lines not allowing it to move upward further.

4. Yes, it's only catching on the right(driver) side. Definitely catching/wedging itself against the tranny cooler, it's well clear of the clip/grommet. I have tried pushing from the bottom as well, but with no luck.

I hate to use more force for fear of damaging it and/or not being able to get it back in, but that may be my only option at this point.

EDIT: I think I'll try taking out the intercooler and see if that buys me any space.

The Fan comes out first, I would recommend NOT to touch the Inter Cooler.
also, get someone to help you.
while someone goes up and down with it, you with a Flash Light figure out where it is catching.

Method 2.
Start raising 1 side then the Other side, May be.
if not, try the raising the otherside first.
wiggle it left to right, and if not, then right to left.

Method 3.
This is a Maybe.
The Fan and Fan Shroud are 2 pieces.
if possible, take the Fan off....it's just a couple of screws.
might want to review any diagrams on Realoem.com

Other than that....Get help.

[SoILBMW]

Originally Posted by DarkNemesis

The Fan comes out first, I would recommend NOT to touch the Inter Cooler.
also, get someone to help you.
while someone goes up and down with it, you with a Flash Light figure out where it is catching.

Method 2.
Start raising 1 side then the Other side, May be.
if not, try the raising the otherside first.
wiggle it left to right, and if not, then right to left.

Method 3.
This is a Maybe.
The Fan and Fan Shroud are 2 pieces.
if possible, take the Fan off....it's just a couple of screws.
might want to review any diagrams on Realoem.com

Other than that....Get help.

The fan and shroud are two pieces, however it has to be removed to separate them.

The intercooler was very easy to remove 2 torx screws and 2 line clips and it dropped right out.

That gave me the clearance it needed, and it lifted right out after that.

Thanks!