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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - N54, 335i Serpentine Belt, Tensioner, Upper and Lower Pulley Replacement



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      11-20-2017, 04:27 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoILBMW View Post
The fan and shroud are two pieces, however it has to be removed to separate them.

The intercooler was very easy to remove 2 torx screws and 2 line clips and it dropped right out.

That gave me the clearance it needed, and it lifted right out after that.

Thanks!
OK, now there is something I didn't know.
did I ever tell you that I am a Realtor......lol
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      06-10-2018, 10:53 PM   #68
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Thanks for the DIY. I gave myself a few issues when doing this. I saw in the pictures that you had the coolant hose disconnected from the Oil Filter Housing so I did so(not necessary for this job), i had to drain coolant anyway but i didn't expect all that coolant to be in the upper part of the system so i made a huge mess. Popping out my expansion tank lines from the fan shroud clips I discovered that my lines were completely brittle and trash, they broke in 3 places upon removal. Including the bung breaking off the upper rad hose so the line wouldn't even sit on it anymore. Had to order those two things. Dropped my intercooler to get to my drain bolt to find it was stripped. While down there I noticed my trans cooler return hose was leaking. Remove the skid plate and the shroud fan guys its impossible if you dont. Even squeezing my ratchet between the air duct and the two pulley was a massive pain but can be done.

I need help finding this part please guys. It's circled. I'm looking for just that hose. It's leaking on the connector at the atf cooler end. I can find the part number for the connector but i'm not sure that would do it. This part does not go directly into the rad it's next to the t25 that goes in the fan shroud assembly. Please help, had to next day parts from FCP Euro but I couldnt find this one!
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      06-11-2018, 10:27 AM   #69
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It's just a hose? Right?
If so, buy any hose, have shop pre shape it, and install with C clamps.

Plastic will become brittle in time.
I don't recall stating anywhere in the DIY to do disconnect any coolant lines.

I think part you are looking for Number 12 on this diagram.
I recommend call the dealer's part dept. and email the person you spoke to this picture and ask what part it is to be sure.

Good Luck

Last edited by BashShah; 06-11-2018 at 11:46 AM..
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      08-22-2018, 09:42 PM   #70
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      09-02-2018, 10:05 AM   #71
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Thank you for the DIY. I couldn't find a good one for the N55 but fortunately the engines are very similar in the front. Did this yesterday at 84k. The bulk of the work is getting the radiator fan out - even after you release the grommet/clip on the drivers side it feels like it is still connected.

Definitely replace the plastic drinking straw portion of the coolant vent hose when you're doing this. It's simple - 1/4" fuel line - 1 foot long, two hose clamps, two 1/4" barbed fittings for both ends of the hose that will replace the "straw"
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      09-03-2018, 06:28 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edl View Post
Thank you for the DIY. I couldn't find a good one for the N55 but fortunately the engines are very similar in the front. Did this yesterday at 84k. The bulk of the work is getting the radiator fan out - even after you release the grommet/clip on the drivers side it feels like it is still connected.

Definitely replace the plastic drinking straw portion of the coolant vent hose when you're doing this. It's simple - 1/4" fuel line - 1 foot long, two hose clamps, two 1/4" barbed fittings for both ends of the hose that will replace the "straw"
Post some pictures of the hoses and there placement. I now have a f30 with a n55 so going to be doing some work on it in 2 weeks time.
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      08-08-2019, 09:22 AM   #73
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      12-19-2019, 12:43 AM   #74
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How long does it take to do this?
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      12-20-2019, 11:12 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by autoart View Post
How long does it take to do this?
if you know your way around, 30 min or less.
newbie, 1 hour with proper tools.
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      12-23-2019, 12:16 AM   #76
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I took me 3 hrs to do this. The fan came out easy,but I had a hard time routing the belt. Not too bad. My car had 102k miles. Everything looked good just did it for preventative maintenance. This dyi helped a lot, thank you.
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      01-02-2020, 02:38 AM   #77
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Just did this on a N55 w/Oil Cooler, but I did not remove the fan.

It was a little tricky and I had to get creative. With 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets, socket extensions, 1/2 Breaker bar and "Jack Handle" Breaker bar.

Was able to use a Harbor Freight Pittsburgh 3/8 torque wrench with Neiko 10073A Torx Bits to torque everything to spec.

Routing the belt was pretty easy, starting with the crank pulley, left and right sides and leaving the alternator last, which mine slipped on without even touching the tensioner.

Tensioner wasn't bad easy to get from top.
Bottom pulley the torque wrench had like 1mm of space from the fan shroud to slip in, but it worked.
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      01-11-2020, 09:21 PM   #78
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Thanks a lot I was able to tackle this today without removing the radiator, it was easier since I do not have a factory oil cooler. I swapped it out at 137k which was really pushing it.
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      05-28-2020, 02:23 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BashShah View Post
the pulleys are free playing, and should spin freely.
I replaced them cause I was there, and it's like 10 GENEROUS mins to replace them and cost is cheap......so I thought it as a preventative maintenance item.
Thanks for this! I wouldn’t have been anle to do this without this guide.

Did you notice the metal plates on the backside of the idler pulleys that hold the bolt in place? If yes, did you remove them or no?
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      05-28-2020, 03:15 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InUnity View Post
Thanks for this! I wouldn’t have been anle to do this without this guide.

Did you notice the metal plates on the backside of the idler pulleys that hold the bolt in place? If yes, did you remove them or no?
I don't remember a Metal Plate at all. I remember I cleaned the entire front of the engine, and I swear no metal Plate on mine.
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      05-28-2020, 03:51 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BashShah View Post
I don't remember a Metal Plate at all. I remember I cleaned the entire front of the engine, and I swear no metal Plate on mine.
The metal plate was on the back of the original and replacement pulleys and i installed them with the plates, but later found out from fcpeuro that the plates should be removed. I’m thinking its ok since the originals had them on, but just seeing if anyone else had experience with them. I haven’t put everything back together just yet but I think I’m good to.

Here is the original lower pulley with plate:
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      05-29-2020, 05:15 AM   #82
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Ohh That plate, I left it on as the Original had it on.
I suppose it was not to be removed as the original plate was not.
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      05-29-2020, 08:30 PM   #83
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Ok thanks!
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      03-07-2021, 09:24 PM   #84
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Wanted to put in my 2 cents, just completed this work today. Thank you so much for this DIY!!

My car is a 2008 335i, manual trans, with oil cooler. Almost 96k miles and the belt was date stamped 2008.

- Only way to get even remotely enough room was to remove the fan. I used the previously posted mishimoto video for a guide. Contrary to what was posted earlier in this thread, there is only ONE screw that holds the fan to the radiator, top passenger side. There is no lower screw. Basically undid that one screw, removed the connector, moved the coolant overflow hose, and yanked the fan out. The rubber grommet on the driver's side was a PITA, but some WD40 for lube helped a bit. It was a really tight fit getting it out with the oil cooler lines.

- The inlet pipe across the front of the engine was annoying, but unbolting it and forcing it out of the way when needed was the only way to get the torx sockets in place. I moved it around a lot and there doesn't seem to be any negative effects after everything went back together.

- Make sure to remove the belly pan. First, because you'll definitely drop something during this process. I started this months ago and I dropped a socket almost immediately. I wasn't able to jack up the car and get the belly pan off in my small garage, so I drove around until today with a torx bit down there somewhere. I also found it handy to push part of the fan out from below, and getting the belt on as well.

- Because there is very limited room for sockets and ratchets/breaker bars with the inlet pipe and other crap in the way, make sure you know what drive size all your sockets are. My set of torx sockets vary drive size and sometimes I didn't have space to add adapters. The only torque wrench I had was 1/2" drive and most of the torx bits I had were 3/8" and I didn't have my adapter. So all my pulleys were tightened to german specs.

- Similar to posts above, I left the metal plates on the back of the new pulleys. Mine also had them on the stock pulleys.

- The job probably took me 2 hrs or so, but I was really taking my time to not break anything. I was nervous about the coolant lines and nipples that everyone had trouble with, but no problems here.

- I ended up finding an intercooler connector that wasn't installed completely by the last shop that worked on my car. It was leaking quite a bit of oil, damnit I really need a catch can. The can runs so much better now.

- I installed the Turner Motorsports aluminum belly pan after the belt/pulley swap was done. Man, that thing is beefy.
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      12-20-2021, 08:11 PM   #85
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There is 2 torx screws holding the fan on for AT. You have a MT, which means you wouldn't have a heat exchanger (or transmission cooler)...just a fyi



Quote:
Originally Posted by dcorn View Post
Wanted to put in my 2 cents, just completed this work today. Thank you so much for this DIY!!

My car is a 2008 335i, manual trans, with oil cooler. Almost 96k miles and the belt was date stamped 2008.

- Only way to get even remotely enough room was to remove the fan. I used the previously posted mishimoto video for a guide. Contrary to what was posted earlier in this thread, there is only ONE screw that holds the fan to the radiator, top passenger side. There is no lower screw. Basically undid that one screw, removed the connector, moved the coolant overflow hose, and yanked the fan out. The rubber grommet on the driver's side was a PITA, but some WD40 for lube helped a bit. It was a really tight fit getting it out with the oil cooler lines.

- The inlet pipe across the front of the engine was annoying, but unbolting it and forcing it out of the way when needed was the only way to get the torx sockets in place. I moved it around a lot and there doesn't seem to be any negative effects after everything went back together.

- Make sure to remove the belly pan. First, because you'll definitely drop something during this process. I started this months ago and I dropped a socket almost immediately. I wasn't able to jack up the car and get the belly pan off in my small garage, so I drove around until today with a torx bit down there somewhere. I also found it handy to push part of the fan out from below, and getting the belt on as well.

- Because there is very limited room for sockets and ratchets/breaker bars with the inlet pipe and other crap in the way, make sure you know what drive size all your sockets are. My set of torx sockets vary drive size and sometimes I didn't have space to add adapters. The only torque wrench I had was 1/2" drive and most of the torx bits I had were 3/8" and I didn't have my adapter. So all my pulleys were tightened to german specs.

- Similar to posts above, I left the metal plates on the back of the new pulleys. Mine also had them on the stock pulleys.

- The job probably took me 2 hrs or so, but I was really taking my time to not break anything. I was nervous about the coolant lines and nipples that everyone had trouble with, but no problems here.

- I ended up finding an intercooler connector that wasn't installed completely by the last shop that worked on my car. It was leaking quite a bit of oil, damnit I really need a catch can. The can runs so much better now.

- I installed the Turner Motorsports aluminum belly pan after the belt/pulley swap was done. Man, that thing is beefy.
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      01-28-2022, 09:08 AM   #86
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Debating doing the belly pan swap as well. Any issues? Did the package fit inside your car or did you have it delivered to where you installed it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcorn View Post
Wanted to put in my 2 cents, just completed this work today. Thank you so much for this DIY!!

My car is a 2008 335i, manual trans, with oil cooler. Almost 96k miles and the belt was date stamped 2008.

- Only way to get even remotely enough room was to remove the fan. I used the previously posted mishimoto video for a guide. Contrary to what was posted earlier in this thread, there is only ONE screw that holds the fan to the radiator, top passenger side. There is no lower screw. Basically undid that one screw, removed the connector, moved the coolant overflow hose, and yanked the fan out. The rubber grommet on the driver's side was a PITA, but some WD40 for lube helped a bit. It was a really tight fit getting it out with the oil cooler lines.

- The inlet pipe across the front of the engine was annoying, but unbolting it and forcing it out of the way when needed was the only way to get the torx sockets in place. I moved it around a lot and there doesn't seem to be any negative effects after everything went back together.

- Make sure to remove the belly pan. First, because you'll definitely drop something during this process. I started this months ago and I dropped a socket almost immediately. I wasn't able to jack up the car and get the belly pan off in my small garage, so I drove around until today with a torx bit down there somewhere. I also found it handy to push part of the fan out from below, and getting the belt on as well.

- Because there is very limited room for sockets and ratchets/breaker bars with the inlet pipe and other crap in the way, make sure you know what drive size all your sockets are. My set of torx sockets vary drive size and sometimes I didn't have space to add adapters. The only torque wrench I had was 1/2" drive and most of the torx bits I had were 3/8" and I didn't have my adapter. So all my pulleys were tightened to german specs.

- Similar to posts above, I left the metal plates on the back of the new pulleys. Mine also had them on the stock pulleys.

- The job probably took me 2 hrs or so, but I was really taking my time to not break anything. I was nervous about the coolant lines and nipples that everyone had trouble with, but no problems here.

- I ended up finding an intercooler connector that wasn't installed completely by the last shop that worked on my car. It was leaking quite a bit of oil, damnit I really need a catch can. The can runs so much better now.

- I installed the Turner Motorsports aluminum belly pan after the belt/pulley swap was done. Man, that thing is beefy.
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      05-11-2023, 09:49 PM   #87
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Old thread.. but do you guys know if you
Pull the pin on the tensioner before or after installing new belt ?
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      05-12-2023, 02:53 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenneykickin View Post
Old thread.. but do you guys know if you
Pull the pin on the tensioner before or after installing new belt ?
After, installing the new Belt, else you will be difficult to mount new belt on all the wheels and pulleys. cause you will be holding the tensioner with one hand, and it does take a lot of force.
with the pin in place, you can mount the belt everywhere and have to deal with just the tensioner belt mounting last.
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