[PS2N54]

had new summer tires (G-Force Comp2) front+rear installed 3-4months ago that are now completely worn down flat on the inside edges for both front wheels, right front wheel showing major signs of camber wear, the rear wheels both visually seem like even wear and plenty of tread left.

steering wheel and car drives in a straight line and follows the crown of the road surprising well - overall smooth ride and no feel of worn/bad bushings.

also worth mentioning is that when braking on the highway particularly in wet conditions, the car feels like it skews to the right (doesn't pull right, but entire car chassis feels like its skewing and IF the brakes were to lock up it feels as if the car will spin out towards the right)

Before purchasing another set of tires for the front, i decided to get an alignment check to see what parts i should consider changing before getting new tires and having final alignment done.

so far iam thinking about changing:
-Right-front forward control arm
-Right-front rearward control arm
-Right-front Ball joint
-Right-front tie-rod assembly (inner+outer)

Iam also wondering based on alignment results if i should also change the rear control arm if the camber is extremely out of spec?

please see alignment results attached and if anyone can suggest what other parts i should consider to changing prior to getting new tires and car re-aligned.

the roads are terrible in my area, and right side of the car has hit some major potholes at high speeds.

thanks in advance for suggestions.

[MightyMouseTech]

Wow, your alignment is really messed up.

Your right front strut and knuckle are bent. That is the first thing we would change. You can try knocking out the alignment pin on the upper mount and pulling the strut outwards, but the strut and knuckle will still be bent.

As for the rear, you should be able to get that into spec without changing any parts.

That thrust angle is what is killing your tires. The front end and back end are working against each other while you are driving. The back end is trying to go left, so the front end is trying to go right to compensate. When you get the back end toe set, the front end will be way off to one side.

[PS2N54]

thanks alot for such a detailed explanation, i really appreciate it. such a coincidence, your in the same city as me (ottawa) - it's the damn gatineau roads that is beating shit out of the car

I already have MOOG control arms+tierods with the intention of installing them over this long weekend - however now based on your explanation iam thinking to hold off on those and instead just replace the strut+knuckle first, re-check allignment, then if still off should i proceed with control arms/tie rods? I am assuming you're saying that the strut/knuckle will bend first before control arms/tierods would from pothole damage?

the last pothole the car hit was near the Portage buildings when switching lanes, the impact and sound was as-if the car crashed into a wall - literally thought airbag was gonna deploy, the rim got bent pretty bad too which also needs to get straightened out.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by nzero

thanks alot for such a detailed explanation, i really appreciate it. such a coincidence, your in the same city as me (ottawa) - it's the damn gatineau roads that is beating shit out of the car

I already have MOOG control arms+tierods with the intention of installing them over this long weekend - however now based on your explanation iam thinking to hold off on those and instead just replace the strut+knuckle first, re-check allignment, then if still off should i proceed with control arms/tie rods? I am assuming you're saying that the strut/knuckle will bend first before control arms/tierods would from pothole damage?

the last pothole the car hit was near the Portage buildings when switching lanes, the impact and sound was as-if the car crashed into a wall - literally thought airbag was gonna deploy, the rim got bent pretty bad too which also needs to get straightened out.

Ugh, ya, roads around here are terrible. I replace a LOT of struts/knuckles.

It can't be any of the control arms causing the increase in camber in the front. To increase camber, the bottom of the suspension would have to move further out. The control arms are straight, hitting a bump can only bend them, which would mean making them shorter. You can't make the arms any longer.

I would say replace the strut assembly, including upper mount and the knuckle, then bring it to Otto's for me to do a good alignment on it.

Although, if you already have the arms, might as well replace them, bound to be worn by our roads. Then just do one alignment after everything.

[PS2N54]

I finally had the chance to replace front right:

Strut
Strut mount + gasket
Rearward control arm
Knuckle
rearward control arm ball joint

i took car to same place i was getting new tires put on, they tried to do alignment but it's still not looking that great, also i think they started to just get lazy since it was near end of day. they insisted that front right camber cant be adjusted, and also that upper control arm on rear driver side bolt is seized so they couldnt set that... i am going to replace the seized bolt in rear.

when braking from high speeds, the car still feels like it's skewing to the left (not pulling to left, but skewing, getting sensation that rear wheels are drifting out while front staying straight).

i also notice that the new strut on right side is stiffer compared to the left side, ride height is same on both side. not sure if that's contributing to the braking issue, but iam already considering to just replace the left strut too since i just did all the work on right side.

here are new alignment screenshots - i would prefer to bring it to Otto's bmw or wherever that there would be closer attention to detail, since other place telling me its okay that car if out of spec range....

Find a different shop...no reason why those numbers shouldn't look better without swapping in new parts; especially in the rear.

Also, this isn't a camber issue...all that negative toe is gonna kill the inside of your tires again if you don't address it.

Yeah, if you change parts on one side, you gotta do the other side too.

Get the front camber to match by pulling pins on both side and adjusting. No reason why those figures shouldn't match after opening up that range of adjustment.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by nzero

I finally had the chance to replace front right:

Strut
Strut mount + gasket
Rearward control arm
Knuckle
rearward control arm ball joint

i took car to same place i was getting new tires put on, they tried to do alignment but it's still not looking that great, also i think they started to just get lazy since it was near end of day. they insisted that front right camber cant be adjusted, and also that upper control arm on rear driver side bolt is seized so they couldnt set that... i am going to replace the seized bolt in rear.

when braking from high speeds, the car still feels like it's skewing to the left (not pulling to left, but skewing, getting sensation that rear wheels are drifting out while front staying straight).

i also notice that the new strut on right side is stiffer compared to the left side, ride height is same on both side. not sure if that's contributing to the braking issue, but iam already considering to just replace the left strut too since i just did all the work on right side.

here are new alignment screenshots - i would prefer to bring it to Otto's bmw or wherever that there would be closer attention to detail, since other place telling me its okay that car if out of spec range....

Is that the "after" specs?

That is horrible! You left rear toe is way out. That will pull the back end left any time you are braking.

[PS2N54]

ya that's the after specs.... for rear left they said bolt seized, but that's such a weak excuse given at home i can take off any bolt even if its broken.

i am stopping by Otto's today or tomorrow to grab new bolt+nut.

if you're working tomorrow i can bring car to Otto's for alignment, and willing to pay whatever extra if more time/attention is needed to get car back into spec range on all four wheels.

[PS2N54]

getting the alignment done at BMW was the way to go, even though 3x the price, at least everything is 100% within spec now. no bolts needed to be replaced either.

[jassilamba]

Did you replace the rear knuckle as well or just the front one? My before numbers look somewhat like yours. We figured that the front strut and knuckle are bent, but are not sure if the rear knuckle is bent or not. The rear shock is leaky, so it will be getting replaced. Trying to figure out what the experts here have to say/suggest.

Original:


After (no parts replaced, just an attempt to make the car point straight)

[Soravia]

You need to replace ALL the control arms. They don't just bend ONE when the road gets you. Worn bushings also get you crazy on alignment. They will look right on the machine and then go nuts on the road. These arms are designed to bend and deform so the sub frames won't get cracked or tweaked.

Do it right the first time. Plenty of CHEAP new arms with bushings on eBay. I recently got an extra set I'll be parting soon with some poly filled in.

[jassilamba]

That won't be a bad idea. Part of me wants to refresh the whole suspension. Thanks for the feedback.