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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > N54 Rod Bearings - Preventative Maintenance?



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      11-22-2019, 09:31 AM   #1
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N54 Rod Bearings - Preventative Maintenance?

I’m going to be changing my oil pan gasket and upgrading to RB Two Plus turbos very soon. I’m wondering if I should have my rod bearings changed while they are in there. The car has 96k on it. Is this worth the expense?

Thanks.
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      11-22-2019, 10:41 AM   #2
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I haven't heard of to many N54's with rid bearing issues.....but I'm pretty new to the scene. I'm sure some others on here will know more.

As far a preventative maintenance goes.......not much you can do aside from replace them.

If it was me, I would take an oil sample and send it to Blackstone labs.....they can tell you what kind of shape the motor is in, and if you have high level of metals (bearing materials) in the oil.

They will send you the oil sample kit for free....and the rest costs $28. It's well worth it if you are thinking about missing your motor.
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      11-22-2019, 10:46 AM   #3
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If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Have your oil analyzed every change. The report will tell you the health of your engine and if rod bearings are starting to go.

The best thing you can do for rod bearings is change the oil often (3-5K mi).
Use a quality oil and the proper grade for your climate.
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      11-22-2019, 11:12 AM   #4
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      11-22-2019, 11:21 AM   #5
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I agree on getting the oil analysis done as it would tell you if it was worth it for a nominal fee.
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      11-22-2019, 01:52 PM   #6
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Thanks.
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      11-22-2019, 02:43 PM   #7
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I agree with getting an oil analysis but I would maybe hold off on replacing the oil pan gasket until you get the results back. I wouldn't want to do the OPG twice. My motor spun a bearing around 86k miles but it was FBO for a while, despite 5k mile oil change intervals. I blame the previous owner honestly, he ran E60 mixtures for a while with throttle body injection etc. But anyways, spun bearings can happen on these cars.

Since I had to replace the motor and I wanted to ensure the new motor wasn't shit, I decided to change the rod bearings while I had the engine on a stand. Stats on this motor is ~80k miles, out of a bone stock 535xi, from the CarFax I got the oil change intervals looked kinda shitty like 5-10k miles, but that's what BMW recommends for these cars. If you follow the link below I posted photos of the bearings that I pulled from this engine. They weren't perfect but I also don't think they were cause for concern.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=33
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      11-22-2019, 03:07 PM   #8
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Wtf did all of these people just join in the last month? Yes, if you are pulling your oil pan it is smart to replace the bearings. But this means you need to fully pull the pan and subframe. If you only want to swap the gasket you technically do not need to fully remove the pan, and then can't swap bearings.
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      11-22-2019, 05:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weehe126 View Post
Wtf did all of these people just join in the last month? Yes, if you are pulling your oil pan it is smart to replace the bearings. But this means you need to fully pull the pan and subframe. If you only want to swap the gasket you technically do not need to fully remove the pan, and then can't swap bearings.
Why do you recommend replacing bearings? There are many high mileage N54's out there without ever touching the bearings.
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      11-22-2019, 05:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKD126 View Post
I’m going to be changing my oil pan gasket and upgrading to RB Two Plus turbos very soon. I’m wondering if I should have my rod bearings changed while they are in there. The car has 96k on it. Is this worth the expense?

Thanks.
One word, no...
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      11-22-2019, 06:44 PM   #11
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I bought an E90 a few years ago with 94k miles on it and it spun a bearing/started knocking about 2 months after I bought the car.

I am not advising one way or the other... just giving what info I have.
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      11-22-2019, 07:03 PM   #12
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Wasn't there a guy just posting on here about his N54 335i that he drifts every weekend.. Bouncing it off the limiter the entire time.......with over 200k miles on it?

Yeah....I'd say that as long as it's been maintained, 96k miles is nothing. These N54's are stout motors....

Send in an oil sample....and be done with it.
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      11-23-2019, 08:46 AM   #13
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OP just search this forum alone for people replacing bearings. If you are able to do it it's worth the few hundred $.
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      11-23-2019, 11:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weehe126 View Post
Wtf did all of these people just join in the last month?
Apparently so. It's like changing the water pump and not replacing the thermostat. OP, you are right there, change the bearings for your piece of mind. Go with the King STD bearings. Cheaper than BMWs offering, and provides slightly more clearance for improved flow.
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      11-23-2019, 01:17 PM   #15
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I'm surprised so many of you guys are saying change the rod bearings at 90k miles...... aren't they good for at least double that? Seems like a hell of a lot of work for no reason..... and a lot more chances to make mistakes and screw something up if you don't do it right .

Now if the oil test shows that you have a lot bearing wear...sure, change them....but do it "just because you are in there" doesn't make sense.
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      11-24-2019, 01:55 AM   #16
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If you have the skill to drop the oil pan you have the skill to change rod bearings. These engines will drive fine even with bad bearings. If you are already in there it makes sense to replace them. No one is saying replace them if you aren't removing the oil pan.
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      11-25-2019, 09:10 AM   #17
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Oil sample will not show issue on this engines. Ask me how I know. Today the bearings spun, tomorrow I received good oil sample analysis. As weehe126 wrote engines can run ok even with bad bearings and if not driven hard or in specific way knock won't be noticed. Also, mileage alone isn't any factor at all. It depends of so many different variables. 20k engine can fail. 200k engine would run fine. There will be anything in between.
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      11-26-2019, 08:53 AM   #18
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I'll say it again, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Now, if you have reason to believe rod bearings might not be OK based on maintenance history or bad sounds, yeah replace them!

But to tear into the bearings "just because" the pan is down can turn into a large expense especially if you f-up something during the process.

It's not just the bearings, you have to figure in rod bolts, oil pump bolts, windage tray bolts and the oil pump sprocket bolt.

And why replace with OE bearings? They just go bad right? So an upgrade to a coated performance bearing is the logical decision.

If any big power numbers are likely in the future upgrade the bolts too... It goes over $1000 very quickly.
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      11-26-2019, 11:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N54_ABQ View Post
I'll say it again, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

Now, if you have reason to believe rod bearings might not be OK based on maintenance history or bad sounds, yeah replace them!

But to tear into the bearings "just because" the pan is down can turn into a large expense especially if you f-up something during the process.

It's not just the bearings, you have to figure in rod bolts, oil pump bolts, windage tray bolts and the oil pump sprocket bolt.

And why replace with OE bearings? They just go bad right? So an upgrade to a coated performance bearing is the logical decision.

If any big power numbers are likely in the future upgrade the bolts too... It goes over $1000 very quickly.
11247589671 x 12 @ $3 each. Rod Bolts
11410426472 x 1 @ $20. Oil pump/windage tray bolts.
I don't believe the oil pump sprocket bolt needs replacing as it is steel.

King bearings here

https://www.raceeng.com/p-39525-king...t-cr222sv.aspx

Need 3 sets @ $30 a set so about $90.

Total ~$150. Cheap insurance imo. But yes, if you're going to fuck up the installation then don't do it
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      11-26-2019, 04:39 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nissubaru View Post
11247589671 x 12 @ $3 each. Rod Bolts
11410426472 x 1 @ $20. Oil pump/windage tray bolts.
I don't believe the oil pump sprocket bolt needs replacing as it is steel.

King bearings here

https://www.raceeng.com/p-39525-king...t-cr222sv.aspx

Need 3 sets @ $30 a set so about $90.

Total ~$150. Cheap insurance imo. But yes, if you're going to fuck up the installation then don't do it
$1000 was pretty far off, I was pricing a full upgrade. VAC coated bearings and ARP bolts... ~$600

That's at least what I will be purchasing for my sleeved block this winter.

Yes, it can be done cheaper.

You're right, oil pump bolt is steel and not torque to yield but at less than $3 I'd give it a fresh one.

Last edited by N54_ABQ; 11-26-2019 at 04:53 PM..
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      11-26-2019, 07:18 PM   #21
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How many N54's actually have rod bearing issues? It seems pretty rare .....
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      11-27-2019, 06:38 AM   #22
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If it aint broke.....
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