SOS Malfunction with No Sound / Chimes

juleshue · 10-02-2019, 11:17 AM

Hello,

I'll apologize upfront for being another post about this issue out of the hundreds or thousands but I've reviewed as many posts, videos and discussions that I can in my free time along with troubleshooting without any success.

I've recently acquired an '08 335i which has the SOS malfunction error. Upon inspecting the trunk there was a MOST bypass loop on the satellite radio connector. Thinking that maybe the loop is bad, I ordered a new one from amazon.

Troubleshooting wise I started at the amp and worked through the modules. Amp has yellow blinking LED, connector has the red optical light for signal. Plug that in and move to the Bluetooth module. Connector has signal, plug into the module and move to the satellite radio. Connector has signal plug it into the module and move to the termination under the dash.

This is where the signal is lost. There is no light here. Makes sense, module is more than likely faulty. Replace the MOST bypass loop with the new one I purchased and lo and behold, the signal still is not present at the final termination.

I tested the bypass loop on the Amp connector just to confirm the signal will still travel to the other modules and it does. Checked the MOST BUS that is under the driverside rear bolster but it all looks untouched/not tampered with.

I truly am at a loss, I haven't come across a post where the final termination did not have signal of any kind. Bypassing the Amp as previously mentioned does not complete the loop, the final termination still remains without signal.

Any and all help is highly appreciated, Fuses I haven't entirely checked as what is listed on the paper in the glovebox for radio, several are not present in my fusebox from factory.

Canuck335 · 10-02-2019, 12:09 PM

Just after all the units in the trunk, there is a MOST bus junction block on the rear right shock tower.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/RQGaWrH

You can access it by removing the rear left passenger bolster. Just pull firmly near the top and it should pop off.

Check that the MOST cables are properly connected. And that the signal from the satellite radio is coming into the block. From there, the signal travels down the driver's side of the car to the diag port. If it's making it out of the block then it may be a broken fiber optic cable.

juleshue · 10-02-2019, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canuck335

Just after all the units in the trunk, there is a MOST bus junction block on the rear right shock tower.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/RQGaWrH

You can access it by removing the rear left passenger bolster. Just pull firmly near the top and it should pop off.

Check that the MOST cables are properly connected. And that the signal from the satellite radio is coming into the block. From there, the signal travels down the driver's side of the car to the diag port. If it's making it out of the block then it may be a broken fiber optic cable.

I've actually taken a look into there and didn't really find anything out of the ordinary.

The fiber optic lines are run and terminate at this block as mentioned, is there anyway to actually troubleshoot it like the module connectors that provide the red optical light?

Here (I hope it works) is a picture of the bus block. OEM tape is still there and looks like it has never been tampered with.

ctuna · 10-02-2019, 01:51 PM

If you shine a light source in one end of a good fiberoptic you will see it
on the other end if the fiber is good. Nobody has reported them being bad
other than one guy who had rodents chew threw some.
Shinning a light in one end and mapping where is goes might help
you better visualize the routing.

Canuck335 · 10-02-2019, 01:59 PM

The optical cables are fairly fragile.

So if the car was serviced and someone mis-handled the cable(s), the internal glass fiber could be broken and you wouldn't be able to tell.

You will need to carefully remove the one going to the diag connector at the front of the car to see if the red light is exiting the block. If you do see the light, then you need to check the cable going to the diag connector. It's possible that the cable is broken near the front of the car - in or near the footwell since that's where a lot of work can be done and something disturbed / broken.

Canuck335 · 10-02-2019, 02:29 PM

Sorry for the duplicate posts.. I think the maintenance they've been doing caused me to post duplicates.
I've reported myself to the mods

Hopefully they'll come in and clean up the mess.

ctuna · 10-02-2019, 02:50 PM

You can shine a light source down the fiberoptics to trace where they
go. Also modules must be powered up to re transmit the signal to the next
module .

I suggest you label the cables to reduce confusion.
If you have a TCU there may be a Mulf module underneath it
which also has its own fiber connection.

ctuna · 10-02-2019, 05:03 PM

You can't bend them at 90 degrees but they are not super
fragile.

You might want to delete 4 of the 5 duplicates you put up.
to Canuck335.
I realize this site has been wacky lately.

juleshue · 10-02-2019, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

You can shine a light source down the fiberoptics to trace where they
go. Also modules must be powered up to re transmit the signal to the next
module .

I suggest you label the cables to reduce confusion.
If you have a TCU there may be a Mulf module underneath it
which also has its own fiber connection.

This isn't something I've considered. I'll check to see if there are any further modules underneath the existing ones that are easy to see.

Regarding both your suggestions to shine a light source through the fiber, are you referring to the runs that terminate at the block i posted earlier?

From my understanding and experience with fiber optics in networking, if it is terminated in a block, it isn't as simple as unplug/plug the run in again, but rather uses specialized tools to terminate into a junction.

Feel free to correct me, but I'll get the easy part out of the way and check if there are any extra modules that I didn't see.

Appreciate the help guys, really hope I can track down the issue.

Canuck335 · 10-02-2019, 05:36 PM

In case you haven't seen this, page 28 of this PDF has a nice, friendly diagram of the MOST cable routing.
And some diagnostics / troubleshooting instructions on page 30.

https://www.e92n55.com/wp-content/up...us-systems.pdf

juleshue · 10-02-2019, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canuck335

The optical cables are fairly fragile.

So if the car was serviced and someone mis-handled the cable(s), the internal glass fiber could be broken and you wouldn't be able to tell.

You will need to carefully remove the one going to the diag connector at the front of the car to see if the red light is exiting the block. If you do see the light, then you need to check the cable going to the diag connector. It's possible that the cable is broken near the front of the car - in or near the footwell since that's where a lot of work can be done and something disturbed / broken.

I believe I'm starting to grasp what you guys are mentioning. The single run that goes from that bolster BUS which directs to the diagnostic port can be removed and have a light source going through the raw fiber optic to which I could check on the diagnostic connector side to see if any light can be observed.

Let's assume the run to the diagnostic port is broken along the path. Is there a possibility of having a short fiber optic run from the same block which simply terminates into a loop? Not having to go the distance to the diagnostic port?

I recognize that to the diagnostic connector, it has more than just the fiber optic run to it.

ctuna · 10-02-2019, 05:48 PM

The OBD connector is not the Fiberoptic test point.
The fiberoptic test point is connecter to the dash undercover
and only is a junction to access the Most Loop with another Fiber
Line. The fiber lines are separated inot individual lines at the
Most Hub. Where they plug into the modules there is a plug
in connector that holds both the In and Out Line .

See the second link under Most to see the diag connector picture.

Logic 7
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056432
http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837
http://www.bmwgm5.com/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post24455335
http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447
http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt
https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=982666

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605
Most
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727663
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222
https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+...VCkMqy2aCK09M:
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19256760
https://www.teacremotes.com/bmwgm5/
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222

Most problems with the Most bus modules can be solved but rotating a Most
Bus jumper through the positions.
Also a fully loaded Most Bus setup will include possibly the SAT module
a TCU and maybe Mulf module typical added into the loop on page 28 of
the Electrical pdf 1

electical e90 pdf
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU

this will have and in and out line.

Canuck335 · 10-02-2019, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juleshue

I believe I'm starting to grasp what you guys are mentioning. The single run that goes from that bolster BUS which directs to the diagnostic port can be removed and have a light source going through the raw fiber optic to which I could check on the diagnostic connector side to see if any light can be observed.

Correct

Quote:

Originally Posted by juleshue

Let's assume the run to the diagnostic port is broken along the path. Is there a possibility of having a short fiber optic run from the same block which simply terminates into a loop? Not having to go the distance to the diagnostic port?

I recognize that to the diagnostic connector, it has more than just the fiber optic run to it.

The whole system needs to be a complete, closed loop.
So the signal has to travel from the diagnostic port back to the radio somehow.

juleshue · 10-02-2019, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

You can shine a light source down the fiberoptics to trace where they
go. Also modules must be powered up to re transmit the signal to the next
module .

I suggest you label the cables to reduce confusion.
If you have a TCU there may be a Mulf module underneath it
which also has its own fiber connection.

Gotta say, thank you both very much. I had complete tunnel vision on the sat radio module and what was in front of me.

The culprit was the bastard underneath the bluetooth module, so I'm guessing the MULF? As soon as I looped that, I got light at the diagnostic port.

Not only that, the chime, radio and everything along with it

Appreciate all the help gents. While I have you here, what exactly is the MULFs purpose?

AUX appears to be grayed out as well, is that an entirely different issue?

Bluetooth connects successfully and can make calls etc; Is this the only function I can do with it connected? I was hoping to run music via bluetooth.

Again, really can't appreciate it enough

juleshue · 10-02-2019, 06:59 PM

I take that back, quick google search revealed MULF has to do with AUX.

In that regard, if I were to source another MULF module, does it require any kind of BMW coding to the VIN?

Or am I lucky enough to just plug and play

ctuna · 10-02-2019, 07:10 PM

Unless you were incredibly lucky its not going to be plug and
play. At the very least the Vin number in the module has to be
changed to match your car.
It's pretty cheap to get a coding diag setup.
Unfortunately Most Bus programing on cars after 3/07 builds need
and Icom cable to code Most Bus modules.
At least that is what Most say this is kind of a nebulous subject.
Not nailed down to the 3/07 date but that is what most say.

Canuck335 · 10-03-2019, 08:24 AM

Glad you figured it out!

Before you go replacing the MULF did you check that it's getting power?
Fuses, wiring, etc.?

juleshue · 10-03-2019, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canuck335

Glad you figured it out!

Before you go replacing the MULF did you check that it's getting power?
Fuses, wiring, etc.?

Honestly once I heard audio, i slapped it all back together and called it a day

I'm going to be checking tonight. Are there any indicators on the module itself to show that it is receiving power (LED's)?

When referring to the fuse diagram, it shows radio being one of several things, would you happen to know the fuse for the MULF?

FaxData · 10-03-2019, 10:59 AM

The MULF2 module provides USB and AUX to the center console. The easiest way to know if it's getting power and functioning is to pull the MOST connector and to look for the red light. If there's no light, you can check for power by putting a multimeter across pin 17 (+12V) and pin 36 (ground) of the 54 pin connector. From my understanding, those units most often are damaged by water since they're hanging upside down under the TCU, on the floor of the trunk. Was there any water collected there?

I've read both that it needs to be coded and it doesn't; it cannot be coded by K+DCAN in your car though. I wasn't able to retrofit a MULF2 into my car and eventually gave up, but you might not need to since you're replacing one in your car instead of retrofitting. If your MULF2 is bad, you might be able to get one cheap from the junkyard, those are often left behind as people strip the cars for parts since they're not worth much. A lot of them are water damaged though...

If you plug it in and have no luck, it probably needs coding. Unless you can find someone with an ICOM, it's not worth programming since the cost of an ICOM is more than the cost of a CIC/combox retrofit... I recommend the CIC/combox retrofit but it's pricey. Instead you can pick up a cheap headunit aux port off ebay and code 6FL out of your car; this is only about $20 but you'll lose USB functionality. Look for the aux port with the white 12-pin connector.

ctuna · 10-03-2019, 11:24 AM

Mulf might work without programming as bluetooth and SOS
are currently handled by the TCU. The cleaner install would be to
remove the TCU all together and use the use the Mulf 2 hi or combox
for both the bluetooth phone and USB.
I had a TCU go bad and no USB on an 06 so I used the following
as a replacement.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...4#post23244354

Some Mulf related info
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1181654

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1344811

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...5#post19088745

Mulfs can be found on ebay and buy and sell here.

Mulf fuse can be found in the cluster of Radio and telephone fuses .
They make it hard to tell which one.

Keys to the Kingdom in the following link.

georges links
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743

FaxData · 10-03-2019, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Mulf might work without programming as bluetooth and SOS
are currently handled by the TCU. The cleaner install would be to
remove the TCU all together and use the use the Mulf 2 hi or combox
for both the bluetooth phone and USB.
I had a TCU go bad and no USB on an 06 so I used the following
as a replacement.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...4#post23244354

Some Mulf related info
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1181654

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1344811

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...5#post19088745

Mulfs can be found on ebay and buy and sell here.

Mulf fuse can be found in the cluster of Radio and telephone fuses .
They make it hard to tell which one.

Keys to the Kingdom in the following link.

georges links
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743

So the experience on the fourth link suggests you don't need to code the MULF2 to retrofit, just the CCC (which in OP's case isn't even necessary). Might be plug and play. Just make sure to purchase a "MULF2 High Basis SVS." This is assuming your MULF2 is dead, of course.

2one3E90 · 04-28-2021, 02:30 AM

Whats the issue or why do these most cables fail? Do people get codes and idrive or audio shutting off because of it? Is that the only symptoms?

10-02-2019, 11:17 AM	#1
juleshue New Member 1 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 335i, 1999 BMW 328is Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Ontario, Canada iTrader: (0)	SOS Malfunction with No Sound / Chimes - Cannot Diagnose Hello, I'll apologize upfront for being another post about this issue out of the hundreds or thousands but I've reviewed as many posts, videos and discussions that I can in my free time along with troubleshooting without any success. I've recently acquired an '08 335i which has the SOS malfunction error. Upon inspecting the trunk there was a MOST bypass loop on the satellite radio connector. Thinking that maybe the loop is bad, I ordered a new one from amazon. Troubleshooting wise I started at the amp and worked through the modules. Amp has yellow blinking LED, connector has the red optical light for signal. Plug that in and move to the Bluetooth module. Connector has signal, plug into the module and move to the satellite radio. Connector has signal plug it into the module and move to the termination under the dash. This is where the signal is lost. There is no light here. Makes sense, module is more than likely faulty. Replace the MOST bypass loop with the new one I purchased and lo and behold, the signal still is not present at the final termination. I tested the bypass loop on the Amp connector just to confirm the signal will still travel to the other modules and it does. Checked the MOST BUS that is under the driverside rear bolster but it all looks untouched/not tampered with. I truly am at a loss, I haven't come across a post where the final termination did not have signal of any kind. Bypassing the Amp as previously mentioned does not complete the loop, the final termination still remains without signal. Any and all help is highly appreciated, Fuses I haven't entirely checked as what is listed on the paper in the glovebox for radio, several are not present in my fusebox from factory.
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

10-02-2019, 12:09 PM	#2
Canuck335 Private First Class 151 Rep 185 Posts Drives: 2011 335ix Sedan 6MT Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	Just after all the units in the trunk, there is a MOST bus junction block on the rear right shock tower. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...xi-lim/RQGaWrH You can access it by removing the rear left passenger bolster. Just pull firmly near the top and it should pop off. Check that the MOST cables are properly connected. And that the signal from the satellite radio is coming into the block. From there, the signal travels down the driver's side of the car to the diag port. If it's making it out of the block then it may be a broken fiber optic cable.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2019, 01:51 PM	#4
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,103 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	If you shine a light source in one end of a good fiberoptic you will see it on the other end if the fiber is good. Nobody has reported them being bad other than one guy who had rodents chew threw some. Shinning a light in one end and mapping where is goes might help you better visualize the routing.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2019, 01:59 PM	#5
Canuck335 Private First Class 151 Rep 185 Posts Drives: 2011 335ix Sedan 6MT Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	The optical cables are fairly fragile. So if the car was serviced and someone mis-handled the cable(s), the internal glass fiber could be broken and you wouldn't be able to tell. You will need to carefully remove the one going to the diag connector at the front of the car to see if the red light is exiting the block. If you do see the light, then you need to check the cable going to the diag connector. It's possible that the cable is broken near the front of the car - in or near the footwell since that's where a lot of work can be done and something disturbed / broken.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2019, 02:29 PM	#6
Canuck335 Private First Class 151 Rep 185 Posts Drives: 2011 335ix Sedan 6MT Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	Sorry for the duplicate posts.. I think the maintenance they've been doing caused me to post duplicates. I've reported myself to the mods Hopefully they'll come in and clean up the mess. Last edited by Canuck335; 10-02-2019 at 05:25 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2019, 02:50 PM	#7
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,103 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	You can shine a light source down the fiberoptics to trace where they go. Also modules must be powered up to re transmit the signal to the next module . I suggest you label the cables to reduce confusion. If you have a TCU there may be a Mulf module underneath it which also has its own fiber connection.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2019, 05:03 PM	#8
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,103 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	You can't bend them at 90 degrees but they are not super fragile. You might want to delete 4 of the 5 duplicates you put up. to Canuck335. I realize this site has been wacky lately.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2019, 05:36 PM	#10
Canuck335 Private First Class 151 Rep 185 Posts Drives: 2011 335ix Sedan 6MT Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	In case you haven't seen this, page 28 of this PDF has a nice, friendly diagram of the MOST cable routing. And some diagnostics / troubleshooting instructions on page 30. https://www.e92n55.com/wp-content/up...us-systems.pdf Last edited by Canuck335; 10-02-2019 at 05:42 PM..
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2019, 05:48 PM	#12
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,103 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	The OBD connector is not the Fiberoptic test point. The fiberoptic test point is connecter to the dash undercover and only is a junction to access the Most Loop with another Fiber Line. The fiber lines are separated inot individual lines at the Most Hub. Where they plug into the modules there is a plug in connector that holds both the In and Out Line . See the second link under Most to see the diag connector picture. Logic 7 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1056432 http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3837 http://www.bmwgm5.com/ https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post24455335 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...2&d=1260829447 http://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&rct=j&...slMu2A&cad=rjt https://www.bmwgm5.com/Logic7_E90_91_92_93.htm http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=982666 http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...1&d=1209780605 Most http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727663 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222 https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+...VCkMqy2aCK09M: http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=19256760 https://www.teacremotes.com/bmwgm5/ https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347222 Most problems with the Most bus modules can be solved but rotating a Most Bus jumper through the positions. Also a fully loaded Most Bus setup will include possibly the SAT module a TCU and maybe Mulf module typical added into the loop on page 28 of the Electrical pdf 1 electical e90 pdf http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cGU&cad=rja http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...85464276,d.cGU this will have and in and out line. Attached Images Last edited by ctuna; 10-02-2019 at 06:00 PM..
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10-02-2019, 06:59 PM	#15
juleshue New Member 1 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 335i, 1999 BMW 328is Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Ontario, Canada iTrader: (0)	I take that back, quick google search revealed MULF has to do with AUX. In that regard, if I were to source another MULF module, does it require any kind of BMW coding to the VIN? Or am I lucky enough to just plug and play
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-02-2019, 07:10 PM	#16
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,103 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Unless you were incredibly lucky its not going to be plug and play. At the very least the Vin number in the module has to be changed to match your car. It's pretty cheap to get a coding diag setup. Unfortunately Most Bus programing on cars after 3/07 builds need and Icom cable to code Most Bus modules. At least that is what Most say this is kind of a nebulous subject. Not nailed down to the 3/07 date but that is what most say.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-03-2019, 08:24 AM	#17
Canuck335 Private First Class 151 Rep 185 Posts Drives: 2011 335ix Sedan 6MT Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Toronto, Canada iTrader: (0)	Glad you figured it out! Before you go replacing the MULF did you check that it's getting power? Fuses, wiring, etc.?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-03-2019, 10:59 AM	#19
FaxData Private First Class 98 Rep 121 Posts Drives: 2017 330e (F30) Join Date: May 2017 Location: Southern California iTrader: (0)	The MULF2 module provides USB and AUX to the center console. The easiest way to know if it's getting power and functioning is to pull the MOST connector and to look for the red light. If there's no light, you can check for power by putting a multimeter across pin 17 (+12V) and pin 36 (ground) of the 54 pin connector. From my understanding, those units most often are damaged by water since they're hanging upside down under the TCU, on the floor of the trunk. Was there any water collected there? I've read both that it needs to be coded and it doesn't; it cannot be coded by K+DCAN in your car though. I wasn't able to retrofit a MULF2 into my car and eventually gave up, but you might not need to since you're replacing one in your car instead of retrofitting. If your MULF2 is bad, you might be able to get one cheap from the junkyard, those are often left behind as people strip the cars for parts since they're not worth much. A lot of them are water damaged though... If you plug it in and have no luck, it probably needs coding. Unless you can find someone with an ICOM, it's not worth programming since the cost of an ICOM is more than the cost of a CIC/combox retrofit... I recommend the CIC/combox retrofit but it's pricey. Instead you can pick up a cheap headunit aux port off ebay and code 6FL out of your car; this is only about $20 but you'll lose USB functionality. Look for the aux port with the white 12-pin connector.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

10-03-2019, 11:24 AM	#20
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,103 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Mulf might work without programming as bluetooth and SOS are currently handled by the TCU. The cleaner install would be to remove the TCU all together and use the use the Mulf 2 hi or combox for both the bluetooth phone and USB. I had a TCU go bad and no USB on an 06 so I used the following as a replacement. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...4#post23244354 Some Mulf related info http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1181654 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1344811 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...5#post19088745 Mulfs can be found on ebay and buy and sell here. Mulf fuse can be found in the cluster of Radio and telephone fuses . They make it hard to tell which one. Keys to the Kingdom in the following link. georges links https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-28-2021, 02:30 AM	#22
2one3E90 Lieutenant Colonel 2422 Rep 1,770 Posts Drives: Bmw 330i and Bmw 328i Join Date: Dec 2020 Location: Los Angeles iTrader: (0) Garage List 2010 BMW 328i [10.00] 2004 BMW Z4 [9.67] 2006 BMW 330i [10.00]	Whats the issue or why do these most cables fail? Do people get codes and idrive or audio shutting off because of it? Is that the only symptoms?
	Appreciate 0 Quote