[YnnoJ420]

Took your advice mweisdorfer and pulled the trigger on the aluminum coolant flange. Thought I should since the SF is down its the best time. Thanks for the heads up!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Definitely going to check out those 60a mounts if the 80a is too much for me. Need to save up for them first. Probably for the 3rd round of upgrades. (Suspension, clutch, RMS, FMS, ect.)

Turner Motor Sports 60a

Wrap the passenger side in DEI Reflect-A-GOLD Heat Barrier Tape 010396

That will give you some piece of mind regarding them NOT melting, as they are so close to the turbos. I did this 3 years ago. No issues....

[YnnoJ420]

Happy Friday guys!

I'm back at the 335 and trying to wrap things up. I came across a dilemma.. The VTTO inlet for the front turbo is protruding out quite a bit. I think its to keep clearance from the pulleys and belt, but its pinching the hell out of the bottom rad hose to the thermostat.. Any ideas how to get around this??

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Happy Friday guys!

I'm back at the 335 and trying to wrap things up. I came across a dilemma.. The VTTO inlet for the front turbo is protruding out quite a bit. I think its to keep clearance from the pulleys and belt, but its pinching the hell out of the bottom rad hose to the thermostat.. Any ideas how to get around this??

I'd run it over the hose instead of under it

[Dave92N54]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I'd run it over the hose instead of under it

+1 I believe most run it over and not under and then ziptie them to the fan assembly so it doesn't rub on the belt/pulleys

[YnnoJ420]

Thanks guys! Totally lost track of how these hose's were routed..

[YnnoJ420]

Hey guys!

In the process of putting things together for the subframe to go in. The aluminum coolant flange finally came in! The coolant lines are finally installed and routed properly thanks to you guys, and I installed a new water pump and tstat just incase. The old water pump only had 10k miles on it so I'm probably going to try to sell it. So I'm currently stuck. Anyone know the torque measurement for the bolts that are on the engine mount bracket to the engine block? Its a NH 8.8 bolt

[YnnoJ420]

So im going off this DIY thread from moo snuckle on this forums.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...t=Engine+mount

I torqued them down to to 41 nm with red thread locker just in case. Just need verification if this is the correct torque spec for the mount bracket

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Hey guys!

In the process of putting things together for the subframe to go in. The aluminum coolant flange finally came in! The coolant lines are finally installed and routed properly thanks to you guys, and I installed a new water pump and tstat just incase. The old water pump only had 10k miles on it so I'm probably going to try to sell it. So I'm currently stuck. Anyone know the torque measurement for the bolts that are on the engine mount bracket to the engine block? Its a NH 8.8 bolt

If you have Catless down pipes, take the OEM bracket off, you don't need it. I think it will get in the way of aftermarket inlets anyways.

I just did this DIY, last month. I don't remember the foot # but I those are bigger bolts too. 41nm seems off to me. It was in the Bentley Repair Manual. I'm on vacation or I'd look it up. Try and watch the ECS Tuning video on turbo install. They might have mentioned it in there

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

So im going off this DIY thread from moo snuckle on this forums.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...t=Engine+mount

I torqued them down to to 41 nm with red thread locker just in case. Just need verification if this is the correct torque spec for the mount bracket

41 # seems right..

You said 41nm 😂

When I did mine, I didn't use thread locker. I didn't see any thread locker on the bolts when I pulled them out

[YnnoJ420]

Yeah wrong mesurment to go by! haha But I did put it to 41# and threw some red thread locker just cause im parinoid like that. lol

So its been a couple of days since my last post. Been busy with my family and it was valintines day with the Mrs. so had to take a break for a bit. But here are the updates on the cars status currently.

Subframe is fully installed and bolts are tourqued down to 82# (not nm lol) along with steering rack and the revshift 80a Poly engine mounts (Forgot to take pictures). The passanger poly mount came with a nice heat sheild for it. Will check back on that mount to see if it dosent melt. Advice for putting the subframe back, jacks and jackstands are your best friend. Helped me line up everything and saved my shoulders.

Replaced both of my Vanos Silinoids and installed the VTTO aluminum charge pipe. Before installing the charge pipe, I put a new gasket where it meets with the throttle and wrapped the meth bungs with some plummers tape just in case. Had access to the alternator and changed out the voltage regulator to see if its the cause of my BSD com fault. The old part it looks decent but the copper prongs seemed darkend but still had alot of life left, but I changed it anyways since I had a new one.

Since mostly everything was finished and wrapping up the last details, decided to put on the DCIs. I noticed the front inlet is probably turned a little too high to the left to the passangers side. I need to get back under and loosen the clamp to trun it to the right and give the inlet more room to sit naturally where its should. Probably noticed the capped off diverter valves. I chose these inlets incase the smog guy gives me shit for visual inspection for the TiAL BOV and have to change back to OEM diverters.

Next up, short shifter, timing chain tensioners, injectors, Fill with oil and coolant, bleed procedure, install the exhaust, prime the turbos, then fire it up!

First time installing a TiAL BOV. Dose anyone know if I need to do any service to the BOV before installing? Its the 11 spring BKQ. Or is it just plug and play?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Yeah wrong mesurment to go by! haha But I did put it to 41# and threw some red thread locker just cause im parinoid like that. lol

So its been a couple of days since my last post. Been busy with my family and it was valintines day with the Mrs. so had to take a break for a bit. But here are the updates on the cars status currently.

Subframe is fully installed and bolts are tourqued down to 82# (not nm lol) along with steering rack and the revshift 80a Poly engine mounts (Forgot to take pictures). The passanger poly mount came with a nice heat sheild for it. Will check back on that mount to see if it dosent melt. Advice for putting the subframe back, jacks and jackstands are your best friend. Helped me line up everything and saved my shoulders.

Replaced both of my Vanos Silinoids and installed the VTTO aluminum charge pipe. Before installing the charge pipe, I put a new gasket where it meets with the throttle and wrapped the meth bungs with some plummers tape just in case. Had access to the alternator and changed out the voltage regulator to see if its the cause of my BSD com fault. The old part it looks decent but the copper prongs seemed darkend but still had alot of life left, but I changed it anyways since I had a new one.

Since mostly everything was finished and wrapping up the last details, decided to put on the DCIs. I noticed the front inlet is probably turned a little too high to the left to the passangers side. I need to get back under and loosen the clamp to trun it to the right and give the inlet more room to sit naturally where its should. Probably noticed the capped off diverter valves. I chose these inlets incase the smog guy gives me shit for visual inspection for the TiAL BOV and have to change back to OEM diverters.

Next up, short shifter, timing chain tensioners, injectors, Fill with oil and coolant, bleed procedure, install the exhaust, prime the turbos, then fire it up!

First time installing a TiAL BOV. Dose anyone know if I need to do any service to the BOV before installing? Its the 11 spring BKQ. Or is it just plug and play?

How do you plan on priming the turbos?

[Tyc0]

Disconnect injectors and coil packs then crank engine to prime turbos^, pretty easy

[Bimmer_Bro]

Looking good. Make sure you upgrade the vacuum line going to that tail bov. The factory 3.5 line from the intake manifold will not cut it. I believe it takes a 6mm line. Burger motor sports makes a nice kit for this so you can take it off the throttle body check valve (Specifically for that tail bov)

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by Tyc0

Disconnect injectors and coil packs then crank engine to prime turbos^, pretty easy

Yes sir, thats the plan!

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Looking good. Make sure you upgrade the vacuum line going to that tail bov. The factory 3.5 line from the intake manifold will not cut it. I believe it takes a 6mm line. Burger motor sports makes a nice kit for this so you can take it off the throttle body check valve (Specifically for that tail bov)

Thanks for the heads up my guy! Just pulled the trigger on the BMS BOV Vacuum adapter. This is the first time putting one on so really appreciate your feedback

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by YnnoJ420

Thanks for the heads up my guy! Just pulled the trigger on the BMS BOV Vacuum adapter. This is the first time putting one on so really appreciate your feedback

No problem! Seems to be just the tail that needs that larger size. A lot of people snap the nipple off the intake manifold and either have to tap a new one or go this route. I put slightly larger lines to my forge DVs and they became much more responsive. Good luck !

[Want_1]

Hey this is some nice work you're putting in.
You should replace all the vacuum lines, it will save you some headaches later.

[YnnoJ420]

Originally Posted by Want_1

Hey this is some nice work you're putting in.
You should replace all the vacuum lines, it will save you some headaches later.

+1

Definetly! The kit from FCP euro came with the braided vacuum lines for the turbos to the boost silinoids. I also had some extra 3.5mm vacuum lines laying around but have yet to refresh the drivers side. Plan on replacing those lines when I get the BOV Vacuum adapter from BMS.

[YnnoJ420]

Hey guys!

So im installing the BMS Short throw with the billet shift rod. I gotta say that this was a very tedious task. I dont have small hands and alot of the install was bassically all feel. I managed to get all 6 allen bolts into the shifter and its secured to the billet shift rod.

I re-greased the short throw and shift rod and got the orentation correct as far install guides from BMS. Flat side of the shift rod facing down towards the driveshaft.

Now I have an issue.... I got back into the car to shift to each gear to ensure that I did it correctly.. The car wont go into 1st or reverse now. Poped into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, no issue but a little struggle on the 6th. Any ideas on what could be the cause????

[YnnoJ420]

I know.... I need a new shift knob... lol Any suggestions for a new shift knob also???

[YnnoJ420]

Got off the phone with shiftteck who makes the shift rod and apparently I installed it upside down.... well shit... oh well, gotta learn somehow. Going to finish up the short shifter tonight and hope it fixes it..