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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > Steering wheel shake when braking 60 plus mph



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      08-31-2016, 05:28 PM   #1
Mrbmw17
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Steering wheel shake when braking 60 plus mph

So for the past couple months when I brake on the harder side while going over 60mph my steering wheel shakes. So today I took of my front wheels and tried to look at my control arms. I looked at each bushing and I saw no visible sign of a failed bushing? My car has aprox 53k miles, and front pads and rotors were changed 7k miles ago. Anyone have any suggestions as to what could be my problem?

Edit: The steering wheel shake upon braking isn't violent


SOLVED: Front rotors were warped.
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Last edited by Mrbmw17; 10-08-2016 at 11:39 AM..
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      08-31-2016, 06:29 PM   #2
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Could be a sticking caliper?
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      09-02-2016, 05:02 AM   #3
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Check the rotors to make sure there aren't any black spots on them. I had brand new rotors on not even 4 months. I slammed on the brakes while it was raining or in a deep puddle and it did something to the rotor where I felt a bad vibration when I braked . Very bad. Ended up being the 2 front rotors. They both had this black spot on them. Don't brake hard in deep puddles!!!
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      09-02-2016, 11:26 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbmw17 View Post
So for the past couple months when I brake on the harder side while going over 60mph my steering wheel shakes. So today I took of my front wheels and tried to look at my control arms. I looked at each bushing and I saw no visible sign of a failed bushing? My car has aprox 53k miles, and front pads and rotors were changed 7k miles ago. Anyone have any suggestions as to what could be my problem?

Rotor check: Emery cloth the swept area. Smooth again? Post back......
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      09-02-2016, 11:57 AM   #5
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Another vote for rotors. Warped, sometimes it's such a small amount it's only noticed during specific braking procedures. If it's really bad it's noticed most braking procedures. Take them to a shop and have them turn them on the machine to tell if they are warped. They have a way to tell.
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      09-03-2016, 05:08 PM   #6
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I'm thinking one or combination of following:
Wheel out of the balance
Warped rotor
Control arm - sometimes even thou they look good, they can be bad. Did you try using pry bar to see if they have play in them?
Check your bushings: sway bar etc.
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      09-03-2016, 05:19 PM   #7
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Bad tireviews also possible. My vote is for control arm bush.
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      09-05-2016, 12:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W37V View Post
I'm thinking one or combination of following:
Wheel out of the balance
Warped rotor
Control arm - sometimes even thou they look good, they can be bad. Did you try using pry bar to see if they have play in them?
Check your bushings: sway bar etc.
I had tires replaced less than 1k miles ago and they were balanced and aligned. How can I use a pry bar to check control arms , and how do I check sway bar?
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      09-05-2016, 01:39 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Fundguy1 View Post
Bad tireviews also possible. My vote is for control arm bush.
Also what he said☝🏻️🙃☝🏻
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      09-05-2016, 01:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesv View Post
Another vote for rotors. Warped, sometimes it's such a small amount it's only noticed during specific braking procedures. If it's really bad it's noticed most braking procedures. Take them to a shop and have them turn them on the machine to tell if they are warped. They have a way to tell.
You can't turn these down on the lathe cause they're coated. You'll ruin em.
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      09-05-2016, 01:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by refugeeofwar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesv View Post
Another vote for rotors. Warped, sometimes it's such a small amount it's only noticed during specific braking procedures. If it's really bad it's noticed most braking procedures. Take them to a shop and have them turn them on the machine to tell if they are warped. They have a way to tell.
You can't turn these down on the lathe cause they're coated. You'll ruin em.
No I mean turn them on a machine to check for warpage with a needle. Similar to how the do with motorcycle or bicycle wheels.
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      09-05-2016, 05:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbmw17 View Post
I had tires replaced less than 1k miles ago and they were balanced and aligned. How can I use a pry bar to check control arms , and how do I check sway bar?
From another forum.

Quote:
Jack up the front end. Insert the end of a crow bar in between the control arm bushing and the mount. Press on it like you are prying it, it does not need to be a hard push. Does it feel solid and does the rubber feel firm? Or is it squishy and does it feel like there is some "give". Do you see the pin and/or entire control arm moving when you press on the crow bar? If they are good, everything will be firm and there will be no movement when pressing on the bar.

To check the ball joints it helps to have a friend put the crow bar under the tire and like a lever, pull up and down against the tire. You watch the ball joint and see if the suspension is moving with the movement of the crowbar, or if the ball joint "gives" or allows the tire to move before the control arms move. There should be no vertical movement in the ball joint itself. You can also have your friend grab the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle it to see if there is lateral movement in the ball joint. There should be none, nor should he be able to move the tire like that.

For tie rods have your friend grab the front and rear of the tire and try to wiggle it left to right and back. Normal behavior is for the entire steering system to move with the wiggling. Watch the joints of the tie rods. If you see movement or slack inside the joint they are going. Really bad tie rods can show up as brake pulsation especially at high speeds.
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      09-05-2016, 06:25 PM   #13
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If you feel the vibration on your pedal, you have warped rotors. If not, then you probably got a bad caliper.

If you have to replace the caliper, it's best to replace them in pairs. Same on the rotors, but if it's rotors, you need to replace the pads while your at it. You never put old pads on new rotors.

If it's calipers, now would be a good time to paint the new calipers with G2 paint prior to installing them. Just let the paint cure for a good 48 hours before installing. Yes, you have to paint the other calipers, but your half way there.
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      09-06-2016, 07:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
If you feel the vibration on your pedal, you have warped rotors. If not, then you probably got a bad caliper.

If you have to replace the caliper, it's best to replace them in pairs. Same on the rotors, but if it's rotors, you need to replace the pads while your at it. You never put old pads on new rotors.

If it's calipers, now would be a good time to paint the new calipers with G2 paint prior to installing them. Just let the paint cure for a good 48 hours before installing. Yes, you have to paint the other calipers, but your half way there.
How can I check visually for bad calipers?
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      09-06-2016, 08:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbmw17
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
If you feel the vibration on your pedal, you have warped rotors. If not, then you probably got a bad caliper.

If you have to replace the caliper, it's best to replace them in pairs. Same on the rotors, but if it's rotors, you need to replace the pads while your at it. You never put old pads on new rotors.

If it's calipers, now would be a good time to paint the new calipers with G2 paint prior to installing them. Just let the paint cure for a good 48 hours before installing. Yes, you have to paint the other calipers, but your half way there.
How can I check visually for bad calipers?
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