[MadDog89]

Last several days I have spent wrestling with VRSF DP especially the V-Clips I made sure to position them as such to not interfere with the waste gate. However upon driving I noticed no boost (just a little bit at low speeds), then when going over 4k RPM I got the 1/2 Engine Light and 30FF code.

I plugged my laptop to check live data via INPA and noticed that voltage was erratic after catalyst or lack off in both banks, it would jump from 0.07v - 0.80v, should it be like that? or should it be more steady as it is post catalyst?

If it should be more steady, I am thinking I switched the rear o2 sensors plugs on accident and if that is the case wouldn't I get other codes/symptoms?

Car Idles fine, however I do hear this annoying rasp (could be DPs vibrating against something) or exhaust leak?


My mods include:
FMIC
DCI
CP + BOF
JB4
CDP

Forgot to add, car has been running perfect before the DPs, I have installed brand new index 12 injectors, logs have been very good hitting just over 15psi at WOT.

[MadDog89]

Thoughts?

Here's a picture I just took of the vband position, I think its high enough.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

I think based on the linked post it’s not possible to have a 30ff when you’re running VRSF...

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1625797

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

I think based on the linked post it’s not possible to have a 30ff when you’re running VRSF...

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1625797

Could it be the wastegate then? What position should it be in when the car is running, currently its in the open position.

Also when driving I did mess with wastegate position via JB4. Could the JB4 keep wastegate open?

[MadDog89]

Found the problem, vacuum line from right vacuum tank has broken off the Pressure converter.... Guess I will need a new pressure converter.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

Found the problem, vacuum line from right vacuum tank has broken off the Pressure converter.... Guess I will need a new pressure converter.

Well, either that or install brass fittings in the vacuum tanks. There is a DIY on this forum for that.

Stett makes a nice set of SS tanks.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Well, either that or install brass fittings in the vacuum tanks. There is a DIY on this forum for that.

Stett makes a nice set of SS tanks.

It broke off the solenoid end, just replaced the solenoid today everything is back in order

Tried Map 2 and it did not go so well

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

It broke off the solenoid end, just replaced the solenoid today everything is back in order

Tried Map 2 and it did not go so well

You have down pipes?

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You have down pipes?

Yes, VRSF 3"

Took it out again today back to Map 1, seemed fine and got up to 15psi of boost. Once engine was at full temperature, 30FF came back on and no boost

Gonna try and replace vacuum lines, perhaps there's a leak somewhere.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

Yes, VRSF 3"

Took it out again today back to Map 1, seemed fine and got up to 15psi of boost. Once engine was at full temperature, 30FF came back on and no boost

Gonna try and replace vacuum lines, perhaps there's a leak somewhere.

I don't think your 30ff code has anything to do with the downpipes.

Your best bet is too:

1) check all of the connections along the intake track.
2) replace all gaskets 50k or older along the intake track
3) check your connections in the outlets
4) make sure you don't have any oil leaks
5) new upgraded PCV valve & hose/ valve
6) do a smoke test to confirm / deny any leaks
7) replace all vacuum lines with platinum cured 3.5mm

If still getting 30ff code, then start looking at sensors such as boost solenoids first & MAP sensors second.

Yep, the MAP sensors could be faulty and giving the DME bad info. The N54 has two of them.

If after you replaced all the boost solenoids & the 2 sensors & fixed all leaks by tightening everything down putting in new gaskets in, you still have a 30ff code, then it's your turbos. Maybe just wastegates by shutting all the way or not sealing etc or just faulty turbos all together.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I don't think your 30ff code has anything to do with the downpipes.

Your best bet is too:

1) check all of the connections along the intake track.
2) replace all gaskets 50k or older along the intake track
3) check your connections in the outlets
4) make sure you don't have any oil leaks
5) new upgraded PCV valve & hose/ valve
6) do a smoke test to confirm / deny any leaks
7) replace all vacuum lines with platinum cured 3.5mm

If still getting 30ff code, then start looking at sensors such as boost solenoids first & MAP sensors second.

Yep, the MAP sensors could be faulty and giving the DME bad info. The N54 has two of them.

If after you replaced all the boost solenoids & the 2 sensors & fixed all leaks by tightening everything down putting in new gaskets in, you still have a 30ff code, then it's your turbos. Maybe just wastegates by shutting all the way or not sealing etc or just faulty turbos all together.

Thanks for the reply, I will definitely all the above. I don't think its the DPs, just coincidentally started after I installed them. I also have an aftermarket FMIC the driver side appears to come off slightly (see below) could that be it?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

Thanks for the reply, I will definitely all the above. I don't think its the DPs, just coincidentally started after I installed them. I also have an aftermarket FMIC the driver side appears to come off slightly (see below) could that be it?

Maybe. Why is it wet?

Make sure you get the green gaskets.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Maybe. Why is it wet?

Make sure you get the green gaskets.

There seems to be a small coolant leak in that area, previous owner did indicate he had to add coolant once in a while.. I've only owned this car for just over a month.

I went back and checked all the vacuum hoses, refit the CP and IC to make sure everything is flush and tight. Took it for a test drive and was only able to get about 6psi boost before getting the following codes:

29F4
29F5
30FF

I did replace one boost solenoid with a generic one due to a broken nipple, should I have gotten both replaced with OEM?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

There seems to be a small coolant leak in that area, previous owner did indicate he had to add coolant once in a while.. I've only owned this car for just over a month.

I went back and checked all the vacuum hoses, refit the CP and IC to make sure everything is flush and tight. Took it for a test drive and was only able to get about 6psi boost before getting the following codes:

29F4
29F5
30FF

I did replace one boost solenoid due to a broken nipple with a generic one, should I have gotten both replaced with OEM?

Well, if your gonna replace boost solenoids, replace them with pierburg. They are the OEM provider. $140.00 at FCP Euro plus a lifetime warranty.

Just because you re-fit everything, doesn't mean there not a leak.

I'd do two things, if I were you.

1) get the proper boost solinoids

2) buy a smoker and do a smoke test.

STINGER Brand EVAP Smoke Machine Leak Tester with EVAP Adapter & TWO Smoke Tips. Tests EVAP, Intake, Exhaust, Vacuum Lines, Manifolds, etc - Stinger Brand is The BEST CHOICE in Smoke Testing!!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758ZRBT7..._SRceDbQE03SK5

I recently bought this one, and it found my leak.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...id-11747626350

[Hawaiian340i]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

There seems to be a small coolant leak in that area, previous owner did indicate he had to add coolant once in a while.. I've only owned this car for just over a month.

I went back and checked all the vacuum hoses, refit the CP and IC to make sure everything is flush and tight. Took it for a test drive and was only able to get about 6psi boost before getting the following codes:

29F4
29F5
30FF

I did replace one boost solenoid with a generic one due to a broken nipple, should I have gotten both replaced with OEM?

Are you running MHD? I read somewhere on this board about a guy who chased
this code doing all things related to this 30ff code. He ended up changing an option in his Map. Not sure if this helps but worth a try if youre running MHD.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Well, if your gonna replace boost solenoids, replace them with pierburg. They are the OEM provider. $140.00 at FCP Euro plus a lifetime warranty.

Just because you re-fit everything, doesn't mean there not a leak.

I'd do two things, if I were you.

1) get the proper boost solinoids

2) buy a smoker and do a smoke test.

STINGER Brand EVAP Smoke Machine Leak Tester with EVAP Adapter & TWO Smoke Tips. Tests EVAP, Intake, Exhaust, Vacuum Lines, Manifolds, etc - Stinger Brand is The BEST CHOICE in Smoke Testing!!! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758ZRBT7..._SRceDbQE03SK5

I recently bought this one, and it found my leak.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...id-11747626350

Just ordered proper boost solenoids from FCP. There's a BMW performance shop near by, I will give them a call tomorrow and see if they can do some tests. Depending on cost I may end up getting smoke tester myself, I am sure it'll come in handy at some point again.

Originally Posted by Hawaiian 335i

Are you running MHD? I read somewhere on this board about a guy who chased
this code doing all things related to this 30ff code. He ended up changing an option in his Map. Not sure if this helps but worth a try if youre running MHD.

Not running an MHD, I changed to Map 0 using JB4 and Map 1 still the same. Do you have any more info?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

Just ordered proper boost solenoids from FCP. There's a BMW performance shop near by, I will give them a call tomorrow and see if they can do some tests. Depending on cost I may end up getting smoke tester myself, I am sure it'll come in handy at some point again.

Not running an MHD, I changed to Map 0 using JB4 and Map 1 still the same. Do you have any more info?

Do you have wastegate rattle upon startup?

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Do you have wastegate rattle upon startup?

I don't have it on startup however I did have the wastegate rattle after I installed the JB4 when coasting at low speeds. I adjusted the position which made it go away until now its back again. It goes away if I continue to adjust the position via JB4.

I would certainly benefit from brand new turbos, don't want to spend another $1500 when I just got new injectors

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

I don't have it on startup however I did have the wastegate rattle after I installed the JB4 when coasting at low speeds. I adjusted the position which made it go away until now its back again. It goes away if I continue to adjust the position via JB4.

I would certainly benefit from brand new turbos, don't want to spend another $1500 when I just got new injectors

Look up wastegate fix for front & rear turbo.

Front = U shaped washer

Rear = turning the wastegate arm 2 1/2 times.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Look up wastegate fix for front & rear turbo.

Front = U shaped washer

Rear = turning the wastegate arm 2 1/2 times.

Also not sure if its wastegate related, but the VRSF sounds awful at around 2000 rpm or with light throttle. Sounds fine at Idle and when accelerating hard, but god awful under light acceleration.

I checked for clearance, went down and bent the heat shield so that pipe is not touching anything..

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by MadDog89

Also not sure if its wastegate related, but the VRSF sounds awful at around 2000 rpm or with light throttle. Sounds fine at Idle and when accelerating hard, but god awful under light acceleration.

I checked for clearance, went down and bent the heat shield so that pipe is not touching anything..

Did you replace the turbo gaskets?

Did you take the bracket off that holds the OEM inner downpipe in place. It's not needed with catless downpipes can/will cause vibration.

The downpipes will sound better or worse based on what you have set up post down pipes too.

I for example am completely catless. No secondary cats. I put in in Vibrant 1792 HF Resonators in their place. I have a 2 1/2" X-pipe & 335is mufflers.

[MadDog89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Did you replace the turbo gaskets?

Did you take the bracket off that holds the OEM inner downpipe in place. It's not needed with catless downpipes can/will cause vibration.

The downpipes will sound better or worse based on what you have set up post down pipes too.

I for example am completely catless. No secondary cats. I put in in Vibrant 1792 HF Resonators in their place. I have a 2 1/2" X-pipe & 335is mufflers.

DPs did not come with turbo gaskets so I didn't replace them, are you talking about the gasket that goes between the DP and Turbo? The bracket is still there too, I will take it off tomorrow. I am completely stock post down pipe.