Large Turbo Remove

alex sol · 02-07-2019, 08:49 AM

I'm changing out the oil line #1 (that goes from distribution on top of the engine near the turbos and goes to the engine block) and is completely inaccessible without removing turbos or a/c compressor and bracket or both.

I'm following Yozh's instructions and have removed:

engine cover, intake etc
small turbo
brackets (at least 3)
intercooler
charge pipe
undertray bits(passenger side i'm struggling to remove) which provides some access to the dpf / turbo v clamp
loosened the turbo v clamp
removed all hardware that I can possibly see and some that on the REALOEM pics
even removed passenger front wheel / tire

still the turbo is rigid and stuck and has absolutely no movement, even with pry bar can lift the turbo a little and remove the gasket otherwise really stuck.

i feel i'm missing one or two bolts that i can't see and i have referred to a number of shots of the dpf delete where you disconnect.

Hoping that I don't have to remove / disconnect dpf just to remove turbo

referring Yozh's post on this subject, he removed the a/c bracket then the turbo and then i see fsd350 removed the turbos only... and the line should be right in front of me. I may have one made for about $30 usd. concerned that the line will get pinched from tight 90* turns...

Torqu3 · 02-07-2019, 09:15 AM

I would pull that turbo to DPF V-band completely off. It'll be a breeze to get back on and will rule that out.

alex sol · 02-07-2019, 09:35 AM

thank torqu3, I'll be doing that for sure!

Access a little tight. looking to remove the black access panel that slips underneath the passenger side aluminum access panels...

alex sol · 02-07-2019, 05:22 PM

okay, i could not remove the black access panel so i busted it in a few pieces..

found the 13mm bolt that is impossible to see from on top and best to use a 13mm ratcheting wrench to remove as it's tight in there.

removed the vband using hammer and pry bar as it was rust welded on... turbo finally separated and was able to work on the oil line#1 that is so difficult to access.

tried to remove the turbo and first backed off both clamps using 6mm which was not accessible so used a number of extensions with slot screwdriver

tried to remove the turbo out the front and it was stuck

backed off the water pump hose and still stuck

tried to remove the hose connection to rad to make more space... would not budge and broke a little plastic trying to pry and gave up

looks like the oil return at the bottom of large turbo will not allow the turbo to slide forward to tried to back off 6mm hex bolts.. got one but not the other and figured it'd be very difficult to reinstall so gave up...

my next move.. made new oil line taking to local industrial / hydraulic shop that has the 10mm fittings with braided s/s rubber lines. cut the 90* banjo end and reused, braised to pressure fitting, pressed on other end, slipped on stock banjo fitting on other end.

bought new m10x25 and m10x80 stainless steel hex bolts from local fastener shop to replace the ridiculous 12 point m10x25 and e10 torx m10x80... wonder if there may be issue using these fasteners??? will use a good glob of copper anti seize upon replace and will check torque specs...

alex sol · 02-08-2019, 07:28 AM

struggled for over an hour trying to get the large turbo back in!

seems like i got it a little twisted and difficult to slip back in.... sooo. going to loosen the dpf and take a look at the dpf delete. perhaps slip one in the spring.

meantime, I got the oil return line made using the banjo fitting with 90* elbow installed. Difficult to know what is the torque spec as i cannot get a tool in there. only room to slide a 14mm ratcheting wrench and use my 'feel'

the stainless line is nice and thin and should easily reconnect to the distribution point at top of turbos.

tryingtobebest · 02-08-2019, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex sol

my next move.. made new oil line taking to local industrial / hydraulic shop that has the 10mm fittings with braided s/s rubber lines. cut the 90* banjo end and reused, braised to pressure fitting, pressed on other end, slipped on stock banjo fitting on other end.

Please rephrase. I'm not sure if anyone else is following but it is NOT clear to me! Maybe post a pic of how this "Frankenstein" looks like) I thought your going to use OEM line? And if not, why not use the 10mm Banjo to AN4 male fittings on both sides and some premade SS AN4 hose, it would be way less expensive and rebuildable in the future (ex. if hose let go)...
Also, you can rearrange both turbos feed if you for some reason would not go to center of distribution block and use top as a feed!

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex sol

bought new m10x25 and m10x80 stainless steel hex bolts from local fastener shop to replace the ridiculous 12 point m10x25 and e10 torx m10x80... wonder if there may be issue using these fasteners??? will use a good glob of copper anti seize upon replace and will check torque specs...

Stainless steel is good but i heard somewhere Bmw uses some kinda different material on all exhaust manifold bolts, and i think that is why they ALWAYS come out, i might be wrong and they are simply stainless steel bolts but what was the problem with them when you were taking them out??? Is it simply they weird head/socket style? Me personally would not change them for SS with regular head.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex sol

meantime, I got the oil return line made using the banjo fitting with 90* elbow installed. Difficult to know what is the torque spec as i cannot get a tool in there. only room to slide a 14mm ratcheting wrench and use my 'feel'

the stainless line is nice and thin and should easily reconnect to the distribution point at top of turbos.

Return? And which size FEED line did you go with?

alex sol · 02-09-2019, 11:34 AM

some pics:

1. oil line shows the new stainless steel
2. where we cut off past the elbow of original hose
3. silver braze new adapter

the size of stainless steel rubber hose is same size as the banjo fitting an4

alex sol · 02-09-2019, 11:50 AM

@[tryingtobebest] i made a mistake in the wording about 'return' line, it is the same oil line #1 that I'm referring to

on the oil return line under small turbo, i notice a potential leak that is either the return line or oil leaking from top of small turbo and down the return line. cleaned everything up and replaced the gasket

i just cannot get the large turbo out.. i'm thinking i need to remove the dpf which i really don't want to do. I want to clean up the return line on the bottom of the large turbo and replace the gasket

I may attempt to back off the two 6mm hex bolts that hold the return line to the large turbo and replace gasket while turbo still stuck in place... also this may allow the turbo to slide forward and out... but mainly think that turbo can only be removed by backing out after removing dpf....

why i'm replaced the m10x25 (2pc) and m10 x 80 (2pc) is that the stock m10x25 is a 12 point that was stripped by my 13mm on removal and so i took a 1/2" socket and hammered it and was able to remove... close call... not easy to get a vice grip on that. they do look like aluminum or some alien material. I'll be sure to use lots of anti seize on install

with regards to the m10x80, i may take your advice and just reuse as the e10 torx was not too bad on removal.. i didn't have the e10 handy and used a 9mm socket which worked fine and easy access if i have to use vice grip in future...

main thing is why bmw doesn't just use hex bolts for everything??

i did a starter job on my e36 m3 from the top (had to remove intake manifold) a couple years ago... it was sooo difficult to get the special e12 torx bolt out... might have been easier to change from bottom and would have required hoist to get the muffler bits out of the way...

alex sol · 02-11-2019, 09:14 AM

okay, got the large turbo back in with lots of struggle. i had to remove the two brackets that hold the turbo in order to be able to twist and turn the turbo and fit it back to the dpf. I did not have to move the dpf at all. The biggest challenge was getting the large turbo return tube (hard line) back into the rubber hose which is frozen (in Toronto) and then lever the whole turbo into the black rubber hose... only then would the turbo fit into the dpf. previously it was pivoting around.... then struggle with the v clamp to get it back on and hope the rest goes back in without drama.

small turbo, oil lines, brackets, gaskets, force air pipe (charge air?) from large turbo to intercooler, reconnect intercooler at other end (i've previously cut off the bands with dremel and replaced with hose clamps), retighten a/c bolts, replace a/c belt, replace rad fan...

replace plastic shields (i'm missing some from previous) and still see lots of oil under the oil pan area which may be just the oil off the broken oil line (i hope)

question really is how 4 litres of oil came out of only the broken #1 oil line or is there another leak somewhere?? - is it under pressure even after the car has turned off?

the sequence of events: kid was driving my car, noticed some oil spilling, backed into garage, next day 3 (or more) litres of oil on the garage floor. figured it may be the oil drain plug as i had retapped the hole from previous owner over tightening and stripping the bolt hole, and use a larger drain plug (no magnet

.

Checked the oil drain plug and saw tons of oil around the turbo area with thick black goopy mess from over time (i noticed seepage from the small turbo return line) and the rubber hose a little loose. New gasket and tighten up the hose clamp should fix. Ideally replace with new in the spring. Perhaps a silicon hose vs the oem rubber?

Nadir Point · 02-11-2019, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alex sol

Perhaps a silicon hose vs the oem rubber?

I can't believe they didn't use silicone on that to begin with.

alex sol · 02-11-2019, 12:51 PM

engineered to fail... after warranty!!!

alex sol · 02-12-2019, 10:18 AM

alright 335d all back together. as yozh had detailed in a turbo oil line replacement, I really wonder if it was worth the effort and wonder what the dealer would have charged?

plus i broke a few things on the reinstall and left out a few things... extra brackets and couldn't rethread the 5mm hex head bolts that hold the intakes with the special tear drop shaped washers...

was below freezing in my unheated garage and took about six hours to put everything back once i had some help to reinstall the v clamp... it helped to have a buddy hold down the clamp from the top while i pushed the other end of the clamp with the funny looking spring and e10 torx head which also works with a 8mm socket...

struggled to reinstall the triangle shaped bracket that holds the rear, drivers side, lowest point of the large turbo held on by 3 x 13mm bolts. i managed to get two on and will get my 8 year old to maybe try to thread in the third...

reinstalled seven banjo bolts... one looks like it has exhaust in it, the other six are the 5 x m10 and 1 x m12 banjo that supply the oil to the turbo including the one that I had made. Saved about 1/2 price on the part and looks stronger and easier to snake back to the distribution point on the top of the turbos. torque to 13 ft-lbs with all new copper crush washers

replaced the heat shield on top, helped to loosen the two 10mm bolts holding the vacuum lines

reconnected the intercooler - helped to have a jack hold the intercooler up while squeezing the input and output hoses with a pair of pliers and then clip together

reinstalled the a/c belt. i'm getting too good at this. with the right tools takes 5 min... without.. not even possible

reinstalled the rad fan - broke a corner of the plastic shroud and it helped to remove the intake held on by clip near butterfly valve / throttle, previously cut off the two bands and replaced with hose clamps

installed the intake and started up... really smoky after 10 mins of idling and drive around the block as there is 4 litres of oil that had poured out of the middle / top of engine plus the seeping oil from the small turbo return - may go to local spray wash to get as much of the oil off

ran fine except i broke the air line (was hard and crispy) going from distribution box to the valve in the front of the car passenger side.. i could hear whistling from the turbo and whooshing from blow off valve? might be that vacuum line??

snow storm today so maybe a run to the spray and wash... no line ups...

alex sol · 02-16-2019, 02:01 PM

okay small setback. driving the D around in the snow and went into limp mode showing cc id 184 which is DTC (traction control) and barely got home... the 1/2 shaded engine light comes on and feels like it won't let the turbo spin...

also had major exhaust coming into the cabin which i thought might be the egr cooler (mine is blocked off and looking for proper solution with block off plates, block off hose ends and coverplate for the egr - bimmertune looks good) and making a serious farting noise. I found that i may have pinched the gasket at the turbo to dpf so removed, repaired the metal gasket by reforming and reinserted, buttoned all up and now won't start... only cranks, catches and then will not stay running - new problem perhaps for a new thread...

02-07-2019, 08:49 AM	#1
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	Large Turbo Remove - help please! I'm changing out the oil line #1 (that goes from distribution on top of the engine near the turbos and goes to the engine block) and is completely inaccessible without removing turbos or a/c compressor and bracket or both. I'm following Yozh's instructions and have removed: engine cover, intake etc small turbo brackets (at least 3) intercooler charge pipe undertray bits(passenger side i'm struggling to remove) which provides some access to the dpf / turbo v clamp loosened the turbo v clamp removed all hardware that I can possibly see and some that on the REALOEM pics even removed passenger front wheel / tire still the turbo is rigid and stuck and has absolutely no movement, even with pry bar can lift the turbo a little and remove the gasket otherwise really stuck. i feel i'm missing one or two bolts that i can't see and i have referred to a number of shots of the dpf delete where you disconnect. Hoping that I don't have to remove / disconnect dpf just to remove turbo referring Yozh's post on this subject, he removed the a/c bracket then the turbo and then i see fsd350 removed the turbos only... and the line should be right in front of me. I may have one made for about $30 usd. concerned that the line will get pinched from tight 90* turns...
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02-07-2019, 09:15 AM	#2
Torqu3 Major 319 Rep 1,157 Posts Drives: 2011 335d Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Centralish Texas iTrader: (0)	I would pull that turbo to DPF V-band completely off. It'll be a breeze to get back on and will rule that out.
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02-07-2019, 09:35 AM	#3
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	thank torqu3, I'll be doing that for sure! Access a little tight. looking to remove the black access panel that slips underneath the passenger side aluminum access panels...
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02-07-2019, 05:22 PM	#4
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	okay, i could not remove the black access panel so i busted it in a few pieces.. found the 13mm bolt that is impossible to see from on top and best to use a 13mm ratcheting wrench to remove as it's tight in there. removed the vband using hammer and pry bar as it was rust welded on... turbo finally separated and was able to work on the oil line#1 that is so difficult to access. tried to remove the turbo and first backed off both clamps using 6mm which was not accessible so used a number of extensions with slot screwdriver tried to remove the turbo out the front and it was stuck backed off the water pump hose and still stuck tried to remove the hose connection to rad to make more space... would not budge and broke a little plastic trying to pry and gave up looks like the oil return at the bottom of large turbo will not allow the turbo to slide forward to tried to back off 6mm hex bolts.. got one but not the other and figured it'd be very difficult to reinstall so gave up... my next move.. made new oil line taking to local industrial / hydraulic shop that has the 10mm fittings with braided s/s rubber lines. cut the 90* banjo end and reused, braised to pressure fitting, pressed on other end, slipped on stock banjo fitting on other end. bought new m10x25 and m10x80 stainless steel hex bolts from local fastener shop to replace the ridiculous 12 point m10x25 and e10 torx m10x80... wonder if there may be issue using these fasteners??? will use a good glob of copper anti seize upon replace and will check torque specs...
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02-08-2019, 07:28 AM	#5
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	struggled for over an hour trying to get the large turbo back in! seems like i got it a little twisted and difficult to slip back in.... sooo. going to loosen the dpf and take a look at the dpf delete. perhaps slip one in the spring. meantime, I got the oil return line made using the banjo fitting with 90* elbow installed. Difficult to know what is the torque spec as i cannot get a tool in there. only room to slide a 14mm ratcheting wrench and use my 'feel' the stainless line is nice and thin and should easily reconnect to the distribution point at top of turbos.
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02-09-2019, 11:34 AM	#7
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	some pics: 1. oil line shows the new stainless steel 2. where we cut off past the elbow of original hose 3. silver braze new adapter the size of stainless steel rubber hose is same size as the banjo fitting an4 Attached Images
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02-09-2019, 11:50 AM	#8
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	@[tryingtobebest] i made a mistake in the wording about 'return' line, it is the same oil line #1 that I'm referring to on the oil return line under small turbo, i notice a potential leak that is either the return line or oil leaking from top of small turbo and down the return line. cleaned everything up and replaced the gasket i just cannot get the large turbo out.. i'm thinking i need to remove the dpf which i really don't want to do. I want to clean up the return line on the bottom of the large turbo and replace the gasket I may attempt to back off the two 6mm hex bolts that hold the return line to the large turbo and replace gasket while turbo still stuck in place... also this may allow the turbo to slide forward and out... but mainly think that turbo can only be removed by backing out after removing dpf.... why i'm replaced the m10x25 (2pc) and m10 x 80 (2pc) is that the stock m10x25 is a 12 point that was stripped by my 13mm on removal and so i took a 1/2" socket and hammered it and was able to remove... close call... not easy to get a vice grip on that. they do look like aluminum or some alien material. I'll be sure to use lots of anti seize on install with regards to the m10x80, i may take your advice and just reuse as the e10 torx was not too bad on removal.. i didn't have the e10 handy and used a 9mm socket which worked fine and easy access if i have to use vice grip in future... main thing is why bmw doesn't just use hex bolts for everything?? i did a starter job on my e36 m3 from the top (had to remove intake manifold) a couple years ago... it was sooo difficult to get the special e12 torx bolt out... might have been easier to change from bottom and would have required hoist to get the muffler bits out of the way...
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02-11-2019, 09:14 AM	#9
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	okay, got the large turbo back in with lots of struggle. i had to remove the two brackets that hold the turbo in order to be able to twist and turn the turbo and fit it back to the dpf. I did not have to move the dpf at all. The biggest challenge was getting the large turbo return tube (hard line) back into the rubber hose which is frozen (in Toronto) and then lever the whole turbo into the black rubber hose... only then would the turbo fit into the dpf. previously it was pivoting around.... then struggle with the v clamp to get it back on and hope the rest goes back in without drama. small turbo, oil lines, brackets, gaskets, force air pipe (charge air?) from large turbo to intercooler, reconnect intercooler at other end (i've previously cut off the bands with dremel and replaced with hose clamps), retighten a/c bolts, replace a/c belt, replace rad fan... replace plastic shields (i'm missing some from previous) and still see lots of oil under the oil pan area which may be just the oil off the broken oil line (i hope) question really is how 4 litres of oil came out of only the broken #1 oil line or is there another leak somewhere?? - is it under pressure even after the car has turned off? the sequence of events: kid was driving my car, noticed some oil spilling, backed into garage, next day 3 (or more) litres of oil on the garage floor. figured it may be the oil drain plug as i had retapped the hole from previous owner over tightening and stripping the bolt hole, and use a larger drain plug (no magnet . Checked the oil drain plug and saw tons of oil around the turbo area with thick black goopy mess from over time (i noticed seepage from the small turbo return line) and the rubber hose a little loose. New gasket and tighten up the hose clamp should fix. Ideally replace with new in the spring. Perhaps a silicon hose vs the oem rubber?
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02-11-2019, 12:51 PM	#11
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	engineered to fail... after warranty!!!
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02-12-2019, 10:18 AM	#12
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	alright 335d all back together. as yozh had detailed in a turbo oil line replacement, I really wonder if it was worth the effort and wonder what the dealer would have charged? plus i broke a few things on the reinstall and left out a few things... extra brackets and couldn't rethread the 5mm hex head bolts that hold the intakes with the special tear drop shaped washers... was below freezing in my unheated garage and took about six hours to put everything back once i had some help to reinstall the v clamp... it helped to have a buddy hold down the clamp from the top while i pushed the other end of the clamp with the funny looking spring and e10 torx head which also works with a 8mm socket... struggled to reinstall the triangle shaped bracket that holds the rear, drivers side, lowest point of the large turbo held on by 3 x 13mm bolts. i managed to get two on and will get my 8 year old to maybe try to thread in the third... reinstalled seven banjo bolts... one looks like it has exhaust in it, the other six are the 5 x m10 and 1 x m12 banjo that supply the oil to the turbo including the one that I had made. Saved about 1/2 price on the part and looks stronger and easier to snake back to the distribution point on the top of the turbos. torque to 13 ft-lbs with all new copper crush washers replaced the heat shield on top, helped to loosen the two 10mm bolts holding the vacuum lines reconnected the intercooler - helped to have a jack hold the intercooler up while squeezing the input and output hoses with a pair of pliers and then clip together reinstalled the a/c belt. i'm getting too good at this. with the right tools takes 5 min... without.. not even possible reinstalled the rad fan - broke a corner of the plastic shroud and it helped to remove the intake held on by clip near butterfly valve / throttle, previously cut off the two bands and replaced with hose clamps installed the intake and started up... really smoky after 10 mins of idling and drive around the block as there is 4 litres of oil that had poured out of the middle / top of engine plus the seeping oil from the small turbo return - may go to local spray wash to get as much of the oil off ran fine except i broke the air line (was hard and crispy) going from distribution box to the valve in the front of the car passenger side.. i could hear whistling from the turbo and whooshing from blow off valve? might be that vacuum line?? snow storm today so maybe a run to the spray and wash... no line ups...
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02-16-2019, 02:01 PM	#13
alex sol Second Lieutenant 27 Rep 221 Posts Drives: 2009 335d Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Toronto Canada iTrader: (0)	okay small setback. driving the D around in the snow and went into limp mode showing cc id 184 which is DTC (traction control) and barely got home... the 1/2 shaded engine light comes on and feels like it won't let the turbo spin... also had major exhaust coming into the cabin which i thought might be the egr cooler (mine is blocked off and looking for proper solution with block off plates, block off hose ends and coverplate for the egr - bimmertune looks good) and making a serious farting noise. I found that i may have pinched the gasket at the turbo to dpf so removed, repaired the metal gasket by reforming and reinserted, buttoned all up and now won't start... only cranks, catches and then will not stay running - new problem perhaps for a new thread...
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