[Brule]

The ap is locked. I am waiting for a reply from cobb i just emailed them yesterday.

Hoping i can send it back to the US and upgrade to V3 while its there

[007_e350]

hey guys I reset adaptations using v2 and the RPM would fluctuate like hell on idle, changed map to stg0 and it was fine... anyone knows how to reset correctly ?

[fmonteiro444]

Originally Posted by 007_e350

hey guys I reset adaptations using v2 and the RPM would fluctuate like hell on idle, changed map to stg0 and it was fine... anyone knows how to reset correctly ?

Just turn the car off and back on. The fluctuation happens. Scared the crap out of me the first time.

[davidwarren]

I know this has probably been asked a million times, I just can't find it now. On stage 2+ aggressive, is it ok to run a few (as in 2-3 gallons) of e85 with the rest 93? Just to make sure I am above 93 octane total (i.e. to account for octane variations).

[bplant13]

I've just ordered AR cat-less DPs. I'm curious to know if the Stage 2 OTS maps where developed against high flow cats, or cat-less DPs? I've got a email into Cobb's support groups about it, but curious if anyone here knows?

I'm planning on getting a pro-tune done anyways, but I've already had to lower my WGDC tables due to overshoots in Stage 1, and I imagine they'll only get worse with cat-less DPs.

[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by davidwarren

I know this has probably been asked a million times, I just can't find it now. On stage 2+ aggressive, is it ok to run a few (as in 2-3 gallons) of e85 with the rest 93? Just to make sure I am above 93 octane total (i.e. to account for octane variations).

I started to slowly add E85 like this to quiet timing corrections. Remember your tank holds ca. 16 gallons so a 10% addition of E85 (my suggestion) is 1.6 gallons. Give it a try!

(You will need to adjust your fuel scalar if adding 2-3 gallons, or more, of E85. I don't think you want to do this.)

[Tzu]

Can someone explain the Boost Limit Multiplier table, and how it interacts with requested boost? What exactly is the factor multiplying?

The x-axis of the table also begins at a high MAF (170 g/s IIRC), but I'm getting overshoots at low MAF Req (60-80 g/s) due to tight wastegates, and timing will flatline at tip-in throttle and low boost (3-4 PSI). Can I reduce the x-axis to reflect the lower MAF Req, and then use a lower multiplier to set a boost limit? Is that how the table works?

[BQTuning]

Originally Posted by Tzu

Can someone explain the Boost Limit Multiplier table, and how it interacts with requested boost? What exactly is the factor multiplying?

The x-axis of the table also begins at a high MAF (170 g/s IIRC), but I'm getting overshoots at low MAF Req (60-80 g/s) due to tight wastegates, and timing will flatline at tip-in throttle and low boost (3-4 PSI). Can I reduce the x-axis to reflect the lower MAF Req, and then use a lower multiplier to set a boost limit? Is that how the table works?

The BLM is exactly as discribed. Its a multiplier factor for boost but "calculated by "Load". It can be used to "tame" boost from overshoots. It would be best to view it as a boost factor for load since our platform is "Load" based.

I always suggest to revert your "WGDC base" table back to stock values and then use the BLM table to trim down the MAF troubled areas that correspond in the X-axis

I preffer this method instead of hacking to death the WGDC base to get rid of overshoots.

Start with 2.300 straight across. Raise or decrease the values based upon if you see overshoots or not. Tuning this requires ONLY a single gear WOT pull since your only trying to weed out the overshoot in the low-mid power range. Take your time and only increase or decrease by one increment using the "+" key after each run.

The values in succession need to be "escalating" to go with the increase of MAF

[Tzu]

BuraQ,

Thanks for that very clear explanation. I'll give it a shot this week.

[alwayseuro]

Originally Posted by RWThorpe

I have replaced all the coil packs and installed NGK plugs gapped at 022. In park, ran RPMs up to 4,000 no issue. Shutdown and came back about two hours later. Started up and immediately got multiple misfires hadn't driven at all. I am going to try stage two driver Vs stage two sport and see if that has any affect.

Not sure if you fixed the problem yet, but I had the samething happen to me. I regapped them to .025. And now it runs fine. Give that a shot if you have not yet fixed the problem.

[Jeffman]

Has anyone ever measured - really measured with a Dyno - the improvements offered by NGK plugs over OEM? If so, show me the data. No butt dynos. No "My friend swears it's better". No "Team RLL uses them, so they must be better". Just real comparison data, please. Inquiring minds want to know!

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by Jeffman

Has anyone ever measured - really measured with a Dyno - the improvements offered by NGK plugs over OEM? If so, show me the data. No butt dynos. No "My friend swears it's better". No "Team RLL uses them, so they must be better". Just real comparison data, please. Inquiring minds want to know!

I think you don't know what spark plugs do. They have no direct input to engine power. They can allow higher cylinder pressures in certain configurations with certain fuel types that allow you to make more power. People should run the cheapest plugs for the motor and fuel type they use and replace them when required.

[sickem]

Originally Posted by Jeffman

Has anyone ever measured - really measured with a Dyno - the improvements offered by NGK plugs over OEM? If so, show me the data. No butt dynos. No "My friend swears it's better". No "Team RLL uses them, so they must be better". Just real comparison data, please. Inquiring minds want to know!

I sincerely hope you're trolling...

[Seymour Boost]

Originally Posted by Jeffman

Has anyone ever measured - really measured with a Dyno - the improvements offered by NGK plugs over OEM? If so, show me the data. No butt dynos. No "My friend swears it's better". No "Team RLL uses them, so they must be better". Just real comparison data, please. Inquiring minds want to know!

I saw a 6hp gain to the wheels. Buy dem NGK's yo.

[deeLow]

After flashing the car and starting, sometimes if you go too quickly(not waiting over 1 sec) does anyone get a 4x4 disabled? But if you wait a few seconds with key out all is fine?

I'm wondering if the TCase gets reset for some reason??

[fmonteiro444]

Originally Posted by deeLow

After flashing the car and starting, sometimes if you go too quickly(not waiting over 1 sec) does anyone get a 4x4 disabled? But if you wait a few seconds with key out all is fine?

I'm wondering if the TCase gets reset for some reason??

This is normal

[deeLow]

Originally Posted by fmonteiro444

This is normal

I get that it may be normal, but I'm wondering if it's because the TCase is being reset as well?

[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by Seymour Boost

I saw a 6hp gain to the wheels. Buy dem NGK's yo.

How did you test that?

[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by Ingeniator

I think you don't know what spark plugs do. They have no direct input to engine power. They can allow higher cylinder pressures in certain configurations with certain fuel types that allow you to make more power. People should run the cheapest plugs for the motor and fuel type they use and replace them when required.

Umm, I actually do...that's my point. Why bother with NGK plugs?

[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by sickem

I sincerely hope you're trolling...

Not sure what you mean. Lots of time on the topic of spark plugs in this forum. I just want to see the scientific proof that one is better than the other.

[Ingeniator]

Originally Posted by Jeffman

Umm, I actually do...that's my point. Why bother with NGK plugs?

They can be re-gapped unlike stock bosch plugs. As a result of that you can tune the gap to be more detonation resistant. To allow for higher cylinder pressure which results in more power. They don't have as long a life as stock bosch plugs in a stock motor. But gapped correctly they would likely last longer in a heavily tuned motor. If you want to push motors for power you always need the skill to assess and read plugs. That was why I said you just want to run the cheapest one that lets you run the power level you are tuning for.

Edit forgot to post the link. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ighlight=plugs

[Jeffman]

Originally Posted by Ingeniator

They can be re-gapped unlike stock bosch plugs. As a result of that you can tune the gap to be more detonation resistant. To allow for higher cylinder pressure which results in more power. They don't have as long a life as stock bosch plugs in a stock motor. But gapped correctly they would likely last longer in a heavily tuned motor. If you want to push motors for power you always need the skill to assess and read plugs. That was why I said you just want to run the cheapest one that lets you run the power level you are tuning for.

Edit forgot to post the link. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ighlight=plugs

Ingeniator, this clearly makes sense. Now someone please show us some good, scientific, comparison data, OEM v. Gapped NGK.