[TheMidnightNarwhal]

I just picked up my 335is and woooow it's fantastic drove all night yestersay.

So to go to work I go to the bus parking and take the bus which is about 3km away. I drove there this morning and the temp gauge had just started moving by 1 line when I got there.

I do drive it very safe and shift at or under 3k when not warm.

Is this something to be worried about a whole lot or not?

[ManiacGT]

So every owner journey and car is different however I used my 35i for short 3 mile commutes over 5 years and frankly it’s ruined it.

It’s just not designed for short journeys, it doesn’t fully warm up and as a result the wear on my car at 35k miles is higher than some 100k cars.

[Had0uken!]

Originally Posted by ManiacGT

So every owner journey and car is different however I used my 35i for short 3 mike commutes over 5 years and frankly it’s ruined it.

It’s just not designed for short journeys, it doesn’t fully warm up and as a result the wear on my car at 35k miles is higher than some 100k cars.

I don't get this so correct me if i'm wrong. My daily commute is 16 miles - so if both our cars are started from cold and driven to work surely the wear on the first 3k of my commute will be identical to the wear on your first 3k commute for the route and then after that i'd have additional wear from the other 14 odd miles i'd drive to work (although this wear would be at a lower rate than the first 3k as the car will have warmed up). SO by this logic i'm still putting more wear on my car then yours doing the longer commute therefore my car would be 'ruined' too?

Even if the car is used for 3k commutes as long as its given regular drives that let it upto temp this should be fine? although i'd understand if you were saying you'd get more wear on your car if you were doing say 6 different 3k journeys from cold start per day vs my 2 16 mile commutes.

I'm not a mechanic or that way inclined so not doubting you just trying to understand myself.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Had0uken!

I don't get this so correct me if i'm wrong. My daily commute is 16 miles - so if both our cars are started from cold and driven to work surely the wear on the first 3k of my commute will be identical to the wear on your first 3k commute for the route and then after that i'd have additional wear from the other 14 odd miles i'd drive to work (although this wear would be at a lower rate than the first 3k as the car will have warmed up). SO by this logic i'm still putting more wear on my car then yours doing the longer commute therefore my car would be 'ruined' too?

Even if the car is used for 3k commutes as long as its given regular drives that let it upto temp this should be fine? although i'd understand if you were saying you'd get more wear on your car if you were doing say 6 different 3k journeys from cold start per day vs my 2 16 mile commutes.

Lol this was also the same logic I was getting to, like from a wear perspective I can it being the same. For the valve being dirty I can see how short trips will wear more. Butl ike for the rest, if one does 3km and the 13km. The first 3km will be the same for both.

Oh well, I guess I'll just let it wam up for 5 min and then drive off and see. This winter will probably be like that anyway since I'll have to de-ice the car.

[ManiacGT]

So perhaps I was unclear;

This is the sort of thing I’m getting at;

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by ManiacGT

So perhaps I was unclear;

This is the sort of thing I’m getting at;

I can't take this guy seriously wearing a choker...

Send your oil to a lab for testing. If the car isn't reaching normal operation temperatures, who knows what could be brewing in your sump.

[TomHudson]

Short commutes are considered “high wear”.
Just service the car accordingly...it’s still a car....

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

The whole thing is a wear item. Good bad or indifferent, if your commute is short, you gonna drive it short. Don't worry about it, it is what it is. When things wear out or break, replace them. Turn up the boost and enjoy the car.

[Jklad]

If you never take long trips and do only short trips and the oil never gets up to temp for an extended period of time, the oil under the oil cap will appear thick and milky. If you see this, that means you gotta drive it more on long trips at operating temp.

[335e92tx]

I got a Nov 2012 build IS with 12.8K miles in April of 17. I did have an oil sample (at about 18K) and iron was a little high. I will prob do another shortly - it now has 26K. I cant see how the original owner ever got it to operating temp very often, but its as least as robust as the oct 06 n54 I had from about apr 2008 until 17. No oil use.. And is very speedy..

Best rule of thumb, dont do WFO pulls until oil temp is at least 180 or more .

[Jaronbwall]

I like to think of the engine like I think of my leg muscles. If it's not warmed up it can't perform to it's best ability. As a cyclist a good warm up period is critical.
Short city driving can trash your brakes, and wheel bearings quicker.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by 335e92tx

Best rule of thumb, dont do WFO pulls until oil temp is at least 180 or more .

Definitely, I shift at ~3k RPM or less until my oil hits operating temp in the manual at least 100c (212f).

Even then I wait a few minutes before mashing it when it hits 100c.

[snedanator]

Originally Posted by Chris@VargasTurboTech

The whole thing is a wear item. Good bad or indifferent, if your commute is short, you gonna drive it short. Don't worry about it, it is what it is. When things wear out or break, replace them. Turn up the boost and enjoy the car.

Yeah, what he says....it is what it is. But maybe at least once a week give it a good blast.... the 335i loves it 😁