[B16]

Unplug the sensor at the front of the fuel rail and try to start.

[B16]

Originally Posted by nickhawaii

I could buy your cable, but I still don't have the software

Software was free. :P I think I found it via google. I believe I used INPA? Was a while ago and I don't remember..

[robnitro]

Ista / rheingold is what we have to use. Inpa is a pain in the ass with usa m57

[B16]

Originally Posted by robnitro

Ista / rheingold is what we have to use. Inpa is a pain in the ass with usa m57

That must be it, I remember downloading a few different softwares before I found one that worked.

[nickhawaii]

Originally Posted by B16

Unplug the sensor at the front of the fuel rail and try to start.

Tried that...Actual value then shows max which is about 25k psi, however, still no start.

[robnitro]

I don't think unplugging it runs rail pressure at max... It says 1800 but you have to think, how is it measuring that with it not connected? It runs a conservative pressure if you look in ista under ecu functions, around 400 bar and it doesn't give much power, which to me confirms the ecu functions data.

[nickhawaii]

UPDATE - FIXED>

Someone recommended to block the fuel lines going from fuel rail to respective injector one by one. This would eliminate a bad injector stuck open and run on 5 cylinders, which is what I did and Cyl.5 injector was stuck indeed.

Thanks all for the input.

[robnitro]

Congrats! What did you use to cap it?

[nickhawaii]

Robnitro,

I used a spare fuel line that I cut in half and then welded the cut ends.
I wanted to post a picture but I am not sure how to do that, I dont seem to be able to attach a photo to my reply.

[yantar]

Adding my own experience to this thread. Still don't have a solution to my current issue of cranks but won't start.

2011 335D with about 85000 miles, bought used at 38k miles.

First failure:
After a long drive one day, while driving in a parking lot looking for spot to park, accidently hit the start/stop or on/off button. But nothing happened. Parked the car and thought nothing further. This is likely not related, but it is something different I’ve not read anyone else mention.
About one hour later car cranks but won’t start. Tried again several times over the next 4 hours. (At this point, thinking it was related to pressing the start/stop button with the car running, so am hoping there is a blown fuse or something simple.)
No errors or warnings.
Next morning checked the fuses, but found none bad. However, on first attempt the car starts fine. Didn’t try to start before checking fuses.

Second failure:
About a week later, parked car after an hour drive, and 30 minutes later car won’t start. Checked fuses again, but find nothing. About 3 hours later car starts and runs fine.

Dealer visit:
Took 335d to dealer who tested and stated there were high current faults at the pump and at the control module. Recommended replacing the 1)fuel filter, 2) pump, and 3) control module. Total repairs around $2000. At this point, decided to wait and do nothing.

Third failure:
Several days after the dealer visit, took a long drive (3 hours) and then parked car at home. Checked start after 5, 10, and 30 minutes, and car starts with no problem. (I was checking to see if the problem persisted. )
About 1 hour after parking, car cranks but won’t start. Try several times over next few hours, but no success.
Next day the car still won’t start. First time this happened with cold engine.

Start investigating, being not much of a mechanic, and notice the fuel pump control module seems not very firmly attached. The two screws/nuts holding it to the metal bracket were not very tight (did a full nut turn on each). Also, just wiggling the control unit and the bracket it’s on, sort of clicks when wiggling it back and forth. So also tightened the bracket nuts. But doubt this is a problem, it just sort points out the fuel control module was already replaced. Also noticed the seat back that must be removed to access the control module, had been forced into place misaligned with the plastic bracket on the upper part, gouging a groove into the adjoining bracket attached to the seat back. (Now maybe the dealer did this at the visit and did a manual check of some sort.)

After about 15 tries at starting over past two days, noted the battery is running down. Once start button is pressed, engine cranks continuously, without even a hint of firing up.

At this point, it would seem my best option is to return the vehicle to the dealer (on a flatbed towtruck I guess) for the repairs.

[yantar]

Originally Posted by yantar

Adding my own experience to this thread. Still don't have a solution to my current issue of cranks but won't start.

2011 335D with about 85000 miles, bought used at 38k miles.

First failure:
After a long drive one day, while driving in a parking lot looking for spot to park, accidently hit the start/stop or on/off button. But nothing happened. Parked the car and thought nothing further. This is likely not related, but it is something different I’ve not read anyone else mention.
About one hour later car cranks but won’t start. Tried again several times over the next 4 hours. (At this point, thinking it was related to pressing the start/stop button with the car running, so am hoping there is a blown fuse or something simple.)
No errors or warnings.
Next morning checked the fuses, but found none bad. However, on first attempt the car starts fine. Didn’t try to start before checking fuses.

Second failure:
About a week later, parked car after an hour drive, and 30 minutes later car won’t start. Checked fuses again, but find nothing. About 3 hours later car starts and runs fine.

Dealer visit:
Took 335d to dealer who tested and stated there were high current faults at the pump and at the control module. Recommended replacing the 1)fuel filter, 2) pump, and 3) control module. Total repairs around $2000. At this point, decided to wait and do nothing.

Third failure:
Several days after the dealer visit, took a long drive (3 hours) and then parked car at home. Checked start after 5, 10, and 30 minutes, and car starts with no problem. (I was checking to see if the problem persisted. )
About 1 hour after parking, car cranks but won’t start. Try several times over next few hours, but no success.
Next day the car still won’t start. First time this happened with cold engine.

Start investigating, being not much of a mechanic, and notice the fuel pump control module seems not very firmly attached. The two screws/nuts holding it to the metal bracket were not very tight (did a full nut turn on each). Also, just wiggling the control unit and the bracket it’s on, sort of clicks when wiggling it back and forth. So also tightened the bracket nuts. But doubt this is a problem, it just sort points out the fuel control module was already replaced. Also noticed the seat back that must be removed to access the control module, had been forced into place misaligned with the plastic bracket on the upper part, gouging a groove into the adjoining bracket attached to the seat back. (Now maybe the dealer did this at the visit and did a manual check of some sort.)

After about 15 tries at starting over past two days, noted the battery is running down. Once start button is pressed, engine cranks continuously, without even a hint of firing up.

At this point, it would seem my best option is to return the vehicle to the dealer (on a flatbed towtruck I guess) for the repairs.

Next action ...

After reading what problems others have had and their troubleshooting steps, came across a suggestion to remove fuses to disable sensors.

One such recommendation was to remove 33 and 58 and another, maybe 04.

Anyway, I removed fuse 58 to start ... and car immediately fired up like nothing was wrong at all.

So my question is what sensor is attached to fuse 58, because it appears to be the cause of my issue.

Here's the thread with fuse removal recommendation(https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1248630). I just did #58, but refers also to 34 and 05.

[Biffrocket]

2010 e90 M57 230,000 miles

Car ran fine/now no start
DEF level is good (nothing on CCC screen nor codes)
Car turns over for short interval(s)

Unplugged AIRMASS > still no start

CODES
Glow Plug Controller - 004A64 / 004A6E (both on cyl. 1)
Kuehlmittelthermostat (plausibility) 004C89
Smoothness Regulator - 00459C

Car was running ruff on initial startup but settled out to smooth quickly

Any thoughts on where to start chasing rabbits?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by Biffrocket

2010 e90 M57 230,000 miles

Car ran fine/now no start
DEF level is good (nothing on CCC screen nor codes)
Car turns over for short interval(s)

Unplugged AIRMASS > still no start

CODES
Glow Plug Controller - 004A64 / 004A6E (both on cyl. 1)
Kuehlmittelthermostat (plausibility) 004C89
Smoothness Regulator - 00459C

Car was running ruff on initial startup but settled out to smooth quickly

Any thoughts on where to start chasing rabbits?

Short start intervals (1 second or so) sometimes point to faulty CAS. Open it up and see if you find a burnt trace near the relay.

The rough running after start is definitely related to your glow plugs (or controller) not working correctly.

[alex sol]

no start issue experience:

swapped motor and tried to start... car would click the nothing.

check my ground was toast (brittle and falling apart) so replaced but did no properly crank hard on the 13mm nut/bolt that holds in place...

replaced starter thinking it was toast and nothing, no crank

decided to crank on the ground strap - instantly started cranking again still no start

primed the fuel rail using motive extractor, had fuel at all the fuel lines at fuel rail. Carly showing low pressure on start

put air into the fuel rail using air compressor and modified a tire gauge/filler with rubber extension into the fuel rail. and saw bubbles coming out of rail/injector# 5, then really cranked down the 17mm bolt to top of injector

started up and success.. for now!

[bluefish7]

My turn now. 2010 X5 E70 d. I can get to start (so far) if I let a little fuel come out of first injector then close back up to crank. New HPFP, LPFP, Foot control module, starter, battery. No codes except for chassis stabilization which actually causes a severe jerk back when it first hits 15 or 20 mph, assume unrelated.

I have not tried anything with relays, I did the starter and the HPFP and dealership tested a few months ago and came back with code 004B90 which is what I know there is no fuel rail pressure on start.

Can't speak for the fuel filter except that I havent done it since I inherited this car a few months ago, but its getting fuel at the rail fine enough to run 30 miles today.

Thanks for any help, currently stranded in Buford, GA!

[BendOR335D]

Originally Posted by yantar

Next action ...

After reading what problems others have had and their troubleshooting steps, came across a suggestion to remove fuses to disable sensors.

One such recommendation was to remove 33 and 58 and another, maybe 04.

Anyway, I removed fuse 58 to start ... and car immediately fired up like nothing was wrong at all.

So my question is what sensor is attached to fuse 58, because it appears to be the cause of my issue.

Here's the thread with fuse removal recommendation(https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1248630). I just did #58, but refers also to 34 and 05.

I would suggest checking your DDE Relay. Also do you have a scan tool of any kind? It would help narrow down the possible issues.

[bluefish7]

Is that the pressure sensor or the fuel regulator?

Originally Posted by B16

Unplug the sensor at the front of the fuel rail and try to start.

[robnitro]

Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com

Is that the pressure sensor or the fuel regulator?

The one at the front is the high pressure fuel rail sensor.

[BigTaco2]

Recently bought a 335D that I'm having a tough time figuring out.
The car is deleted and tuned (DUDMD). It sat for about a month in the previous owners driveway but prior it was his daily driver and he never had an issue.
The car started for me a couple of times but only ran for 2m max once, all other start ups were barely a few seconds.
When it was running for those two minutes, it sounded like the engine cut out but then caught itself and the RPMs came back to idle.
Once it starts, runs and dies, you have to leave it for a bit before it'll start again otherwise I just cranks.
I cracked open the injector lines and fuel was coming out during cranking.
I am leaning toward maybe pulling the fuel filter and seeing if its water logged? I didn't scan for CEL yet, I only have a basic obd2 reader.
I checked the the blue relay under the passenger side ebox under the hood which is the DDE relay I believe. I can feel it click and I pulled the cover off and saw it actuate.
Any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks

[BigTaco2]

https://youtu.be/pDH-1gKPTrQ

After sitting overnight

[Michal06]

Originally Posted by BigTaco2

Recently bought a 335D that I'm having a tough time figuring out.
The car is deleted and tuned (DUDMD). It sat for about a month in the previous owners driveway but prior it was his daily driver and he never had an issue.
The car started for me a couple of times but only ran for 2m max once, all other start ups were barely a few seconds.
When it was running for those two minutes, it sounded like the engine cut out but then caught itself and the RPMs came back to idle.
Once it starts, runs and dies, you have to leave it for a bit before it'll start again otherwise I just cranks.
I cracked open the injector lines and fuel was coming out during cranking.
I am leaning toward maybe pulling the fuel filter and seeing if its water logged? I didn't scan for CEL yet, I only have a basic obd2 reader.
I checked the the blue relay under the passenger side ebox under the hood which is the DDE relay I believe. I can feel it click and I pulled the cover off and saw it actuate.
Any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks

Sorry for resurrecting an old post.
I'm experiencing the exact same issue.
My mechanic and I have now spent almost 2 weeks diagnosing an issue on my 335d e91 M57 2007 (57).

In short - Car starts, runs for approximately 2-3 seconds - shuts off, sometimes fails to start completely - cranks no start.

In full - I took the car for a drive approximately 30mins away. Came back to the car after around 15mins to find that the car is not starting. Fuel pump malfunction appeared on the CIC screen along with ABS & TCS errors. Took the key out ignition, closed it, opened and after inserting the key it started. At the time I had around 30miles of fuel left in the tank. I thought that that might be the cause, so I took the car to a petrol station near home. Filled up, again, same issue when leaving the petrol station although took far longer fiddling around with the closing / opening (to be honest I don't know if it actually helped or just my placebo). Drove the car home that night, my initial thought was that the fuel system may have picked up some crap from the fuel tank or air locked itself.
Next morning got round to start the car - all fine. Got to work, again around 30mins away no surprises. After work however leaving the car park the car started and around 5secs later cut out on me. Here we go again - lock unlock.... started - heading home 200yards down the road again, cut out, luckily at low speed. And again, lock unlock insert key, multiply that by 10, car started. Hoping to get home asap, took the motorway. The car was fine for around 15mins and whilst doing around 60mph the car yet again cut off on me however i was able to safely come to a stop (no hard shoulder on a Friday at 5pm) The car however refused to start at that point any further.

£100 less and got the car recovered home, next day i got round to getting it tested with ISTA+.

00FFF3 MOSTSYS: MOST system analysis: 1 fault found
S 0076 No communication possible with: CD changer/iPod interface
0042DE DDE: BSD - Communication with glow control unit
004293 DDE: Control unit, internal 16
004262 DDE: Glow plug, cylinder 6, activation
004252 DDE: Glow plug, cylinder 5, activation
004242 DDE: Glow plug, cylinder 4, activation
004232 DDE: Glow plug, cylinder 3, activation
004222 DDE: Glow plug, cylinder 2, activation
004212 DDE: Glow plug, cylinder 1, activation
003FF1 DDE: Air-mass flow sensor
0E+000 Message (power management, consumer/load control, 0x3B3) faulty, receiver IHKA, transmitter DME-DDE
00E71B Message (heating current, engine 0x1B6) faulty, receiver IHKA, transmitter DME-DDE
00CF33 No message, receiver EGS, transmitter DME-DDE
00A0B3 CAS: Starter motor, terminal 50
009C53 IHKA: Electric auxiliary heater
5E+40 DSC: Steering-angle sensor: plausibility
00E71A Message (torque 3, 0xAA) faulty, receiver IHKA, transmitter DME-DDE
0E+000 Message (engine data, 0x1D0) faulty, receiver IHKA, transmitter DME- DDE
00D356 No message (engine, 0x170), receiver DSC, transmitter DME-DDE
00D355 No message (engine, 0x169), receiver DSC, transmitter DME-DDE
00D354 No message (engine, 0x168), receiver DSC, transmitter DME-DDE
00CED4 No message (0xAA), receiver EKPS, transmitter DME-DDE
00A3AE Message (engine speed, 0x0AA) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DME-DDE
00A3AD Message (engine data, 0x1D0) faulty, receiver KOMBI, transmitter DME-DDE
00A6DE JBE: Mirror/spray-nozzle heating, left
0041F2 DDE: Electric fan, activation
00A6D1 JBE: Auxiliary-water pump
009CB4 FRM: Ride-height sensor, rear, faulty
004CF3 DDE: Exhaust backpressure sensor, signal
004166 DDE: Particulate-filter system
004030 DDE: Exhaust temperature sensor upstream of catalytic converter,
signal

After clearing the codes and trying to start the car.

004030 DDE: Exhaust temperature sensor upstream of catalytic converter, signal
004166 DDE: Particulate-filter system
0042DB DDE: Injectors, cyl. 1, 2, 3, activation
0042DE DDE: BSD - Communication with glow control unit
0042FB DDE: Injectors, cyl. 4, 5, 6, activation
004CF3 DDE: Exhaust backpressure sensor, signal
009CB4 FRM: Ride-height sensor, rear, faulty
00A6D1 JBE: Auxiliary-water pump
S 0076 No communication possible with: CD changer/iPod interface

After reading multiple forums I've decided to check the injector resistance is at 180ohms.
Took the manifold off, unplugged injectors - all at 180 ohms. Put the car back together and look at that - the car started. Left it running in the drive for almost 40minutes and decided to take it for a drive. Drove it about 2miles and got home. Left the car running and around 5mins later when I sat outside the car shuddered and shut off - unable to start once again.
At that point I have now given up and decided to tow the car to my local garage & tuning specialists (car is running stage 2 - and was running fine for over a month).
The electrician had a look at the car and has taken out the ECU, no water damage visible.
We then decided to send the injectors off for testing. All injectors have came back good.

I am now thinking if the issue is somewhere with the fuelling system? Although we checked the low pressure from live data and appears to be good mechanic assured me that data reads 300bar on rail pressure (although I am confused as to how this data has been read if car does not start), can the issue be somewhere within this?

[lnxguy]

Crank Position Sensor would be a really good bet with random no starts.