[floydarogers]

Originally Posted by nwsnowboarder

...
I don't understand why they pulled the glow plugs, as they are not part of the procedure, nor affected since they are not in the intake.

Removes compression as a factor while rotating the engine.

[07Bavarian335]

Well the glow plug had a lot of build up on it as well which was weird, they think maybe it didn't have a great seal and combustion was happening way up in the cylinder?

Does any of this make sense or does it seem like maybe the shop didn't have the right tool to rotate the crank, dropped something in a cylinder below the valve, and doesn't want to pull the head.

They said they couldn't be 100% sure there's nothing in the cylinder without pulling the Hess so they'll keep trying to clean it out but they'll want me to sign a waiver before starting the motor if I don't pay them to pull the head?

[nwsnowboarder]

Originally Posted by floydarogers

Removes compression as a factor while rotating the engine.

Understandable, but part of the procedure is to remove the injectors which accomplishes the same thing.

[nwsnowboarder]

Originally Posted by 07Bavarian335

they think maybe it didn't have a great seal and combustion was happening way up in the cylinder?

That would be a tough sell for me. I think it would be very obvious if you had a glow plug that wasn't sealed well. Low compression, high noise, exhaust under the hood, etc.

Originally Posted by 07Bavarian335

Does any of this make sense or does it seem like maybe the shop didn't have the right tool to rotate the crank, dropped something in a cylinder below the valve, and doesn't want to pull the head.

The right tool to turn over the engine is just an adapter that attaches to the pully at the front of the engine. Nothing to do with working above the valves.

Originally Posted by 07Bavarian335

They said they couldn't be 100% sure there's nothing in the cylinder without pulling the Hess so they'll keep trying to clean it out but they'll want me to sign a waiver before starting the motor if I don't pay them to pull the head?

They are covering their a**, but can you blame them? You could be looking at a VERY EXPENSIVE repair if something is in there, like 10,000+ Pounds. Are they willing to negotiate the cost to pull the head? There really isn't anything to gain on their part to lie to you, assuming it is a busy shop they are going to make money off of you or the next customer.

[Mik325tds]

I'd also speculate that they are trying to find someone to pay for pulling the head because they are not sure if they did something wrong during the procedure.
Since the SIB doesn't call for removing the glow plugs, I'd play hardball and have them take the risk.
On the other hand, why not inspect the combustion chamber with a small camera through the glow plug/incjector port ?

[cschmelz]

I am very confused...So earlier this year in the last two months of my factory warranty I took car in for CBU codes, they felt it wasn't CBU and sent me on my way.

I bought an extended warranty, they told me CBU would be covered under extended. My car is in shop RIGHT NOW and they said "oh yeah, awful CBU" and "That isn't covered by your extended warranty"

What gives? Doesn't the SIB state it IS covered by the warranty? Sure seems to state that pretty directly.

Appreciate any insight.

[temporaptor]

You should find a better dealer. A lot of dealers will cover it under extended warranty. The SIB states it's covered under the new vehicle warranty and CPO warranty, doesn't say it's covered under extended warranty. I think some dealers just lump it in with the 335i that's not covered for CBU.

[cschmelz]

Originally Posted by temporaptor

You should find a better dealer. A lot of dealers will cover it under extended warranty. The SIB states it's covered under the new vehicle warranty and CPO warranty, doesn't say it's covered under extended warranty. I think some dealers just lump it in with the 335i that's not covered for CBU.

They offered to comp 90% of the cost which is interesting especially since it appears they could get BMWNA to cover 100% of it....Hmmm

[Monroe]

Although I have pursued SIB 11 03 14 for almost a year, I haven't found
a dealer shop who wants to do the walnut blast. BMW USA is reluctant
to mention a dealer. I understand their reluctance. I want suggestions
of shops likely to perform the walnut blast.

[335dsleeper]

Originally Posted by Monroe

Although I have pursued SIB 11 03 14 for almost a year, I haven't found
a dealer shop who wants to do the walnut blast. BMW USA is reluctant
to mention a dealer. I understand their reluctance. I want suggestions
of shops likely to perform the walnut blast.

Do it yourself. It's easy

[myculito]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Do it yourself. It's easy

are you being facetious? Or is it really easy?

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

Do it yourself. It's easy

Its not really "easy".

The special tool to rotate the crank-- turns out that a 12pt 1 and a 1/4" socket fits nicely over the 4 bolts in there.

The pin for TDC Cyl 1 is just silly since you need to take it out for the other cylinders and what not.

I have just been rotating to the 'off lobe' on the cam and doing it that way. With my bore scope I can look down and see the valve is seated.

Mine are very dirty, in fact two so far could barely even see the valve the opening was so small.

[JOHNNYBRAVO1]

Do you have to take off the valve cover to do the valve cleaning? If you do, do you need all new gaskets? I was going to do the bavauto starter option to close the valves but is the socket option easier? Do you happen to have a pic of the socket you used on the crank?

[335dsleeper]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

Its not really "easy".

The special tool to rotate the crank-- turns out that a 12pt 1 and a 1/4" socket fits nicely over the 4 bolts in there.

The pin for TDC Cyl 1 is just silly since you need to take it out for the other cylinders and what not.

I have just been rotating to the 'off lobe' on the cam and doing it that way. With my bore scope I can look down and see the valve is seated.

Mine are very dirty, in fact two so far could barely even see the valve the opening was so small.

It's very easy. You don't need a tool. You just bump the start/stop. Verify valve is closed with a bore scope or fluid.

It's a little intimidating for most but the process itself is simple.

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by 335dsleeper

It's very easy. You don't need a tool. You just bump the start/stop. Verify valve is closed with a bore scope or fluid.

It's a little intimidating for most but the process itself is simple.

It is not hard, in terms of what is happening, but it is above your average joe I can change my brakes type job.
I have been working on cars/trucks/motors for 20 years, i would not recommend this job to the average guy.

[335dsleeper]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

It is not hard, in terms of what is happening, but it is above your average joe I can change my brakes type job.
I have been working on cars/trucks/motors for 20 years, i would not recommend this job to the average guy.

Just takes common sense. Plus there are a few DIY/ SIB's for it... I don't know. I assumed it was going to be much worse than it was. It's literally just removing an intake manifold, unplugging a few sensors and cleaning each port/ valve (when valve is closed) etc. I dropped my intake off and had the machine shop for like $45-50 or something.

EGR/Throttle body/ swirl flaps i cleaned with gas.

I think most the guys on this forum have the smarts to do this.

All that said, you got a bit crazy pulling the valve cover... ha I did not do that. I cleaned both valves per cylinder and verified with a bore scope.

[coolchu001]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

It is not hard, in terms of what is happening, but it is above your average joe I can change my brakes type job.
I have been working on cars/trucks/motors for 20 years, i would not recommend this job to the average guy.

Is there a tool/method you recommend to remove the injectors?

I'm going to do the CBU cleaning on the manifold and want to clean the injector metal bits.

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by coolchu001

Is there a tool/method you recommend to remove the injectors?

I'm going to do the CBU cleaning on the manifold and want to clean the injector metal bits.

I made a mini slide hammer out of a bolt and nut. I will take some pictures and get you the thread pitches if you want. Very simple tool. Prior to pulling them I also sprayed some kroil around them and let it soak, it seeps into the hole and lets them come out much easier.

All of my spray ports on my injectors are clearly dirty, I will take some pictures of before and after for you.

[coolchu001]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

I made a mini slide hammer out of a bolt and nut. I will take some pictures and get you the thread pitches if you want. Very simple tool. Prior to pulling them I also sprayed some kroil around them and let it soak, it seeps into the hole and lets them come out much easier.

All of my spray ports on my injectors are clearly dirty, I will take some pictures of before and after for you.

Thanks! I had a similar idea with the nut and slide hammer. Can you get me the thread pitch?

So you did you take apart the injectors?
Similar to this:

[DozerDan82]

I did, I took apart 2 of the injectors, one because I took the rfirst one apart wrong, which was a bone head move because I am VERY systematic when I do stuff like that.

I would not recommend it. There are more parts inside of ours than that video, and getting it back together with having everything seating properly was not a simple task. By all means do not take that as in insult, but I am trained as a tool and die worker and spent 10 year working with manufacturing equipment, I have taken a lot of things apart, but this was not for the light of heart.

I will get you the TPI info for the bolts

[335dsleeper]

^ that looks horrible. Ha! Glad you got them back together!

[DozerDan82]

My tap and die set does not go large enough to confirm the size, but it is a 14mm I assume 1.5 (course thread) set up.

I had a random nut and bolt that fit them perfectly (lots of random stuff in my garage) I also had a camber misalignment set up in the random drawer that I used as my slide hammer - any heavy piece with a hole in it will work.

A few taps on it and they popped right out. I have a real slide hammer but it was fine thread and it was cumbersome to hold on such a small injector.