[Taskmaster]

One thing I've observed (but the sample size is small) is that the SS headers, on at least near equal length headers do make more torque in the lower range..

[atmosphericM]

Originally Posted by David@ActiveAutowerke

We didn't lift off of the throttle early. The car actually started losing power above 6000. We use a loaded Mustang dyno so the results are a bit different than dynos that rely only on roller weight. We've also noticed that the initial torque reading varies based on how you initially apply the throttle. On the street the car feels like it has more power and torque everywhere.

I appreciate the reply. While I will concede that the N52 w/ 3 Stage intake mani does level off in the meat of the 6's, from what I've seen they do still pull hard and gain in power to about 6200 RPM, not 5950 or so, on the stock tune - just as this car did with the AA tune. I still think there was more peak power to be had on that stock pull, but alas. I'll meet in the middle at another 4 whp instead of 7. So 18/27 whp gains from tuning. Granted we are almost splitting hairs at this point but us N52 guys seem to like every single HP we can get. Either way, as I said, good numbers for sure.



I dyno'd my car on a Mustang Dyno and it, too, gained power past 6k RPM.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by atmosphericM

I appreciate the reply. While I will concede that the N52 w/ 3 Stage intake mani does level off in the meat of the 6's, from what I've seen they do still pull hard and gain in power to about 6200 RPM, not 5950 or so, on the stock tune - just as this car did with the AA tune. I still think there was more peak power to be had on that stock pull, but alas. I'll meet in the middle at another 4 whp instead of 7. So 18/27 whp gains from tuning. Granted we are almost splitting hairs at this point but us N52 guys seem to like every single HP we can get. Either way, as I said, good numbers for sure.



I dyno'd my car on a Mustang Dyno and it, too, gained power past 6k RPM.

We are still waiting on that graph...

[atmosphericM]

lol you and me both. I gave up trying to deal with the idiots that own/run SpeedSouth in Pelham, AL. I finally got them to send me files and they send me .ini configuration files. I went through the trouble of finding and installing the MustangDyne reader, only to realize that the .ini files are not all I need. le sigh. #Bama

[Noir]

Originally Posted by atmosphericM

lol you and me both. I gave up trying to deal with the idiots that own/run SpeedSouth in Pelham, AL. I finally got them to send me files and they send me .ini configuration files. I went through the trouble of finding and installing the MustangDyne reader, only to realize that the .ini files are not all I need. le sigh. #Bama

dam :[

[Phyrexia]

Originally Posted by atmosphericM

lol you and me both. I gave up trying to deal with the idiots that own/run SpeedSouth in Pelham, AL. I finally got them to send me files and they send me .ini configuration files. I went through the trouble of finding and installing the MustangDyne reader, only to realize that the .ini files are not all I need. le sigh. #Bama

You should just wait a little bit and visit APR/Dinan once they're up and running in Opelika.

[varoadking]

Originally Posted by E90cruisin

Hi everyone,
After the day of tuning, the tuner left a believer in MILV's.

He should have...Marty is a genius...

[tom.gnade]

Nic @AA just confirmed they can supply a tune file for the MILVS. I'm going to start looking into the install process to see if I'm up for it.

[atmosphericM]

Originally Posted by Phyrexia

You should just wait a little bit and visit APR/Dinan once they're up and running in Opelika.

If only. I've been to APR a few times for the BBQ's and they're not really a "shop" as one might think. They really just do R&D there and then manufacture and sales, home office, etc. In fact their only dyno was a 4WD wheel-hub dyno that they ran in an enclosed room with fancy air circulation, etc.. Very nice but for obvious reasons they never even considered renting it out to the public heh. Maybe things will change over there now that they've been bought-out and are "teaming" up with Dinan, but I doubt it.

Either way, the girl and I are looking to make a move in the next year or so, so it's all good. Can't wait to get out of this ass-backwards state and see what else is out there! We are leaning heavily toward NC, actually, but are also considering Richmond, Louisville, and a couple of other spots in the region. Seattle area is top of my list but she's not a fan. We both really like Denver but we are probably going to stay a little closer for this first move. TMI sorry ha.

[Phyrexia]

Originally Posted by tom.gnade

Nic @AA just confirmed they can supply a tune file for the MILVS. I'm going to start looking into the install process to see if I'm up for it.

Same price as the standard tune?

[Wally_84]

Another brave soul is fighting with N52 Milv install
quick introduction: I'm not a mechanic but through some experience I know my tools and do most repairs myself. Yet never done VCG + Milves before.

So I started the install 7 hour ago and I had to let go for today because I was too tired when I finally get to do the first cylinder of Milv’s installation.

Why so long you may ask? Well everything was fine until first I got a little spring "shot" upon unscrewing the valvetronic motor. I started to search the net for answers while shitting bricks, yet found no answer (and yes I did unscrew to a point of resistance a hex 4 screw).Then I discovered 3 aluminium valve cover bolts cracked and did extracted them via extraction tools I bought as a precaution. Ectractaction of one bolt in particularly was the stuff of nightmares that I will remember for long time but I managed so I won't bore you now with that story.

Now to the Point: As I said previously after 6-7h I finally get to point of installing Milv’s.
I did pointed the crank shaft in the right direction which would be around 14 o’clock.
I then marked the spring screw and and a base with a pencil to count those 5 turns. I unscrew the screw by 5 rotations and then I hit a wall. I just could not insert the washer all the way. I tried to use a hammer and small screwdriver but I ended up grooving the base under the washer so I stopped.
At this point I called it a day and screw everything back as it was because I was too tired it was getting dark and I would probably screw something up.

The question for all you lucky bastards who already done this, how did you manage to get the washer all the way in with only 5 rotations from the spring screw? What tools did you used?

[6ixSpd]

That's really odd... are you doing five complete, 360 degree rotations? That gave me plenty of room to slide the washer under. Had zero issues at all with this step of the procedure.

[cwlo]

Wally, you can back out more than 5 turns to get the washer under fully. I forgot what someone said the max they thought that was safe, but I did 6 turns successfully. Make sure the washer is fully seated around the whole circumference under the bolt, and you are good to go.

[Elias_E90]

Sorry to hear about what happened mate, 6 turns are safe (dont force it in with a hammer)

[weehe126]

I turned mine until the washer fit. I think it's 15-20 turns to remove it.

[F31cruisin]

so after about a week and a half, I have had one odd situation with the engine. Did a hard run on the way home, ran great, got home and turned the car off. Next day I turn the car on and I hear loud knocking coming from the engine. Knocks for about 30 seconds, then stops and it has not come back.

Been running perfect since then. Strong pulls, the idle erraticness has completely gone away, settles perfectly at 600rpm, and it is smooth and powerful. No idea what happened that day, but hope it does not happen again! So far so good.

[Bob@BPC]

Originally Posted by varoadking

I will...thanks...

It went into limp mode again this weekend...going 30mph in regular automatic mode and under no RPM load.

I noticed that the triangular trouble symbol next to your mileage comes on and then goes off on its own now. Pretty odd...

EDIT: This doesn't really belong in the MILV's thread, so I'm sorry to clutter it up...it kind of evolved...

2nd EDIT: BPC is thinking that my Sprint Booster may be fouling the up the works. Gonna disconnect it and see if that cures my ills...

Update on this case, the sprint booster was the issue, ended up editing the throttle maps to match the effects of the sprint booster in the dme and the feel was almost identical.

[hassmaschine]

hah! sprint booster = trash...

[Wally_84]

I have installed mine supports finally and received an update today from Bob at BPC
As for the install tips for the next guy:

- Since you’re out there this is a good time to replace your eccentric shaft sensor and a seal if you haven’t done that yet.

- Know what type of an engine cover you have.
There are 2 types of covers. One is made from aluminium-magnesium alloy with aluminium bolts, and other and most common in US is plastic with steel bolts. All yb VCG DIY videos show only plastic cover and if you like me have aluminium-magnesium one you have to use a specific install method.
Don’t use your power tools to pre tighten aluminium bolts because there is huge risk you overtight them and they will snap.
I would personally recommend tighten aluminium screws up to 7Nm, and then after 30 min tighten all bolts for another 45 degrees.

Milv’s Install, the way I did it:
That job is very straight forward, and when done step by step it’s very easy for one guy. Remember don't force anything.

1. Rotate the crank shaft (car has to be in neutral) as from instruction supplied by Marty use 22m short socket and start rotating the camshaft for the first cylinder. For the cam lobes position I used around 14 o’clock position as it was mentioned here by other guys and I can confirm that it worked perfectly.



2. Use a piece of clean cloth to ensure you don’t lose the washer inside the engine if it falls.
3 Mark the screw and base of the screw with a line made by pencil.


4. Use that line to count 5,75 rotations. You can unscrew full 6 rotations but there is no need for it.
Use small 1”4 ratchet.
NEVER leave that screw unscrewed for too long by going for the dinner , or taking a long call. It’s safe for 6 rotations but only if you do it for a short while.
5. Install supplied washer and make sure it’s all the way in.
6. tighten the screw to the point of resistance where the washer sits even. If you won’t tight that screw enough there will be no room for the support to go in.



7. Unscrew and wiggle the old support with your flat screw driver, it should come of relatively easy but with some resistance from the rocker arms.

8. Take new support out of the box, clean it and oil the base of it with motor oil.
9. Put the new support on to a start position which is the point where they don’t seem to want go in anymore like on the picture below.

10. Using 2 flat screw drivers (one at a time) and a piece of clean microfiber cloth wedge the rocker arms. You will be able to do so with just one hand, first one screwdriver and then the other. Make sure the cloth is between flat screw driver and the rocker ledge. Cloth is to ensure you wont damage the rockers.



11. Now with your rocker arms pressed push with your other hand the new support in.

12. Centre the new support right on the bolt holes.

13. Unscrew your spring bolt about 1,75 rotations (just enough to push the washer out with flat screw driver), and tighten it back to the point of resistance.

14. Install support screws, to the point of resistance, and then tighten all screws with a torque wrench to torque spec.

15. There you go! Your first new support is in, and 5 more to go.
Remember to check all the screws with 1”4 torque wrench after installing the last support.

[CobraMarty]

Well done, thanks for the pictures.

[kc2mrg]

@cobra .. first off i rarely if ever even get on here let alone to post anything lol. I've spent all day off and on reading this entire post and am very impressed with your ingenuity to develop these. I've been a professional BMW tech for 10+ years now and always love seeing what people come up with as far as mods for these things.

On that note .. I myself have a 2011 328xi auto wagon and am going to start modding it up. My question to you is would you like to keep in your files some dyno runs on a completely stock AWD and then if you'd like I can just add the new MILVs with no tune and see what it gains if any? My car has secondary cat delete and performance exhaust but I still have my stock exhaust and was going to install it to have a true "factory" baseline run on my car (97k miles)

I have to get some coin together before I can get a set but I am 100% interested in these along with a tune and a huge list of other costly stuff I wanna do haha

[yupetc]

I don't speak for Cobra, but if you can do it, it'll greatly help the N52 populace to have clarity on on MILVS gains from stock numbers.

Originally Posted by kc2mrg

@cobra .. first off i rarely if ever even get on here let alone to post anything lol. I've spent all day off and on reading this entire post and am very impressed with your ingenuity to develop these. I've been a professional BMW tech for 10+ years now and always love seeing what people come up with as far as mods for these things.

On that note .. I myself have a 2011 328xi auto wagon and am going to start modding it up. My question to you is would you like to keep in your files some dyno runs on a completely stock AWD and then if you'd like I can just add the new MILVs with no tune and see what it gains if any? My car has secondary cat delete and performance exhaust but I still have my stock exhaust and was going to install it to have a true "factory" baseline run on my car (97k miles)

I have to get some coin together before I can get a set but I am 100% interested in these along with a tune and a huge list of other costly stuff I wanna do haha