[SCS55]

I don't want to hijack this post but my condition is the same and hopefully others can benefit...

The last screw on my camshaft adjuster literally unscrewed by hand!
I'm glad the sprocket didn't spin free and bend valves. You can see the shaft damage where the threads are almost ground smooth. I can't guess on exactly how long the migration on these bolts started? I've had the car for 14 months and about 14,000 miles.

[SCS55]

And to help others out who may experience this same situation, here are 3 of my Blackstone oil samples beginning with February last year at 96K. I'm not seeing any noticeable increase in metal contamination with 2 missing bolt heads somewhere in the engine, so I am guessing it started within the last 3 or 5000 miles?

[CDirks]

Originally Posted by SCS55

And to help others out who may experience this same situation, here are 3 of my Blackstone oil samples beginning with February last year at 96K. I'm not seeing any noticeable increase in metal contamination with 2 missing bolt heads somewhere in the engine, so I am guessing it started within the last 3 or 5000 miles?

Man every time I see one of these Blackstone tests I tell myself I'm going to do one too. Then I space out and do an oil change without saving any.

[ryan stewart]

IIRC this is only affecting the last few years of the N52s before the refresh right? For some reason nobody has reported this on the earlier models.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by SCS55

I don't want to hijack this post but my condition is the same and hopefully others can benefit...

The last screw on my camshaft adjuster literally unscrewed by hand!
I'm glad the sprocket didn't spin free and bend valves. You can see the shaft damage where the threads are almost ground smooth. I can't guess on exactly how long the migration on these bolts started? I've had the car for 14 months and about 14,000 miles.

What year is your car? My understanding is that this issue is somewhat common on the N52 in the LCI, but doesn't affect the Pre-LCI as much. Instead I have broken aluminum head bolts over the timing area to worry about.

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

What year is your car? My understanding is that this issue is somewhat common on the N52 in the LCI, but doesn't affect the Pre-LCI as much. Instead I have broken aluminum head bolts over the timing area to worry about.

2011.
November 2010 build. I believe the extended warranty was for years 2009 to 2011.

I did call BMW North America about the N52 Vanos bolt recall/fix and it covers 10 years from in service date and unlimited mileage.

Unfortunately my in service date was February 2011 so I just missed it by under 2 months. They did suggest that I get it to a dealer so they can write up the actual issue and then I was supposed to call them back however, a SA basically said "yeah, good luck with that."

That would entail 2 tow charges, a BMW diagnostic fee all totaling probably $400.00 with the dealer saying good luck son. Not to mention half ass putting it together with no Value Cover on for towing unloading etc.

So, Step 1) Which probably will not work, is when the upgraded ISA screws arrive along with a 1/4 drive digital angle torque wrench, I'm going to attempt to see if I can evenly close the gap on the Cam adjuster by inserting and tightening the bolts down.

Step 2) If step 1 fails, is to order 2 new Cam adjusters both intake and exhaust, buy a cam locking kit, and replace them which in my experience is moving up to the Hardcore DIYer level.
Unfortunately, the cam adjusters are $580.00 each through FCP Euro. They have an OEM version by Vaico at half the price but, the exhaust adjuster is back ordered. Of course it is!
I do have all 4 bolts or the head portion removed, so all I really want to do is rotate the crank with my 22mm, and seat each upgraded bolt in and tighten to spec. I'll report back if this works or not. Quick pick of the gap I'm concerned about.

[CDirks]

Originally Posted by SCS55

2011.
November 2010 build. I believe the extended warranty was for years 2009 to 2011.

I did call BMW North America about the N52 Vanos bolt recall/fix and it covers 10 years from in service date and unlimited mileage.

Unfortunately my in service date was February 2011 so I just missed it by under 2 months. They did suggest that I get it to a dealer so they can write up the actual issue and then I was supposed to call them back however, a SA basically said "yeah, good luck with that."

That would entail 2 tow charges, a BMW diagnostic fee all totaling probably $400.00 with the dealer saying good luck son. Not to mention half ass putting it together with no Value Cover on for towing unloading etc.

So, Step 1) Which probably will not work, is when the upgraded ISA screws arrive along with a 1/4 drive digital angle torque wrench, I'm going to attempt to see if I can evenly close the gap on the Cam adjuster by inserting and tightening the bolts down.

Step 2) If step 1 fails, is to order 2 new Cam adjusters both intake and exhaust, buy a cam locking kit, and replace them which in my experience is moving up to the Hardcore DIYer level.
Unfortunately, the cam adjusters are $580.00 each through FCP Euro. They have an OEM version by Vaico at half the price but, the exhaust adjuster is back ordered. Of course it is!
I do have all 4 bolts or the head portion removed, so all I really want to do is rotate the crank with my 22mm, and seat each upgraded bolt in and tighten to spec. I'll report back if this works or not. Quick pick of the gap I'm concerned about.

That's a bummer about being out by 2 months, and I don't blame you for not bothering with the dealer route- unless you have a good reason for them to goodwill a repair that extensive (consistent service customer or multiple vehicle purchases) they probably wouldn't offer you much assistance if any.

With the adjusters costing an arm and a leg, let's hope your step 1 is fruitful. It shouldn't be too much of an issue to get the adjuster back up against the sprocket. The only trouble I would be wary of is if the adjuster was able to separate far enough that the internal spring became unwound, in which case a new adjuster would be your best bet. Assuming you can hold the adjuster against the sprocket, my process was to start threading in each bolt with loctite one by one. Where you're missing more bolts, consider installing all bolts, then removing one, applying loctite, reinstall and torque, and move on to the next one. My first attempt failed, so I let the screws sit overnight to ensure the loctite would bind the two pieces together.

Let us know how you make out, and best of luck.

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by CDirks

That's a bummer about being out by 2 months, and I don't blame you for not bothering with the dealer route- unless you have a good reason for them to goodwill a repair that extensive (consistent service customer or multiple vehicle purchases) they probably wouldn't offer you much assistance if any.

With the adjusters costing an arm and a leg, let's hope your step 1 is fruitful. It shouldn't be too much of an issue to get the adjuster back up against the sprocket. The only trouble I would be wary of is if the adjuster was able to separate far enough that the internal spring became unwound, in which case a new adjuster would be your best bet. Assuming you can hold the adjuster against the sprocket, my process was to start threading in each bolt with loctite one by one. Where you're missing more bolts, consider installing all bolts, then removing one, applying loctite, reinstall and torque, and move on to the next one. My first attempt failed, so I let the screws sit overnight to ensure the loctite would bind the two pieces together.

Let us know how you make out, and best of luck.

Great tip, will do and thanks.
The upgraded ISA bolts are back ordered too, supposedly arriving Friday.

[mad1stgen]

The vanos assy will seat easily when you start to tighten the bolts, shouldn't be much of an issue.
You can use regular steel bolts if you have the right size handy, to bring the vanos flush before using TTY bolts.
Do not use any locktite or any other lubricant for that matter.
The holes have to be cleaned out and blown out before inserting the new bolts.
The torque and angle specifications are very clear about that, otherwise you won't have correct clamping force of the new bolts.

Check out intake vanos bolts as well, they're probably hand tight as this point. The BMW kit comes with 8 bolts anyways.

Most dealers stock these bolts, but you have to call and ask for the specific part number, as it's not listed separately from new Vanos assemblies in BMW inventory system.

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by mad1stgen

The vanos assy will seat easily when you start to tighten the bolts, shouldn't be much of an issue.
You can use regular steel bolts if you have the right size handy, to bring the vanos flush before using TTY bolts.
Do not use any locktite or any other lubricant for that matter.
The holes have to be cleaned out and blown out before inserting the new bolts.
The torque and angle specifications are very clear about that, otherwise you won't have correct clamping force of the new bolts.

Check out intake vanos bolts as well, they're probably hand tight as this point. The BMW kit comes with 8 bolts anyways.

Most dealers stock these bolts, but you have to call and ask for the specific part number, as it's not listed separately from new Vanos assemblies in BMW inventory system.

Update: Correct, I have the new bolts which are a darker colored aluminum vs original. The dealership has 8 but for now I have 4 to see if this works. And yes, I'm actually seeing the assembly pulled towards the Cam which is encouraging. I'm going to bottom them out on a Micro level by hand, followed by torquing them to spec which I believe is 6 nm + 60 degrees but I'm absolutely going to verify that via a link from this site. If all goes well, purchase the intake side and do those tonight.

You mentioned no thread locker? I have both Blue and Red. I'll read the service bulletin on the details.

[SCS55]

Remnants of the 4 bolts recovered. The head and I'm hoping the top 1/3rd of its shaft, are together as 1 in the oil pan.
I must say, the exhaust Cam adjuster was doing all it could to try to keep time.

[SCS55]

Update: Successfully torqued the new bolts to 6.0 nm followed by 60 degrees using my 1/4 Digital/Angle wrench. The adjuster walked onto the cam gear ever so slightly by turning the engine over until each bolt was snug. Then I repeated the process turning it over for the initial 6 nm followed by 60 degrees. Here is the BMW tech data on the procedure.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/av9y6o8avf...-2716.pdf?dl=0

As far as the Intake Cam adjuster, those four bolts are not loose however, it has the OEM style screw that has a miniature post in the middle of it rendering a standard T45 bit useless.
I'm debating on whether or not going to the dealership and seeing if they carry the bit for it? Otherwise, I'm putting the VC back on on if the Exhaust Adjuster is ruined i.e. cannot adjust and throws codes, it's onto replacing the entire unit in pairs per the tech sheet.

[SCS55]

New ISA screw and T45 socket.

[SCS55]

Intake side with annoying little center post.

[mad1stgen]

Originally Posted by SCS55

Intake side with annoying little center post.

That's a standard tamper proof torx. You should have no problem picking up the correct bit from any auto parts store or lowes/homedepot.

Definitely do the intake as well. In my experience, they follow shortly.

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by mad1stgen

That's a standard tamper proof torx. You should have no problem picking up the correct bit from any auto parts store or lowes/homedepot.

Definitely do the intake as well. In my experience, they follow shortly.

Yup, I'm doing the intake.

[SCS55]

Update: Fixed. Cam Adjuster Bolts torqued, triple checked everything in the valve train before the new valve cover went on, engine fired right up and no SES light. Gone is the chug a lug stumble I used to have from the failed old PVC diaphragm, and the front of the engine is noise free. Drove it for a full hour listening, checking for leaks etc.

I'm still planning on retrieving the missing two heads in the oil pan, but I'm actually going to try with a bore scope or something going up through the oil level sender before I drop it again.

Although the jury is still out and it could self destruct and throw a bunch of exhaust cam codes, all and all I think these little N52's are pretty durable. I was almost certain the exhaust cam adjuster was completely ruined based on just how loud it sounded before I tore into it. I expected a
new code saying the adjuster is mechanically locked or something like that?

Lastly, I highly recommend a digital 1/4 drive torque wrench with Angle functionality. Especially for small tricky torque requirements.
I was surprised just how little 6nm felt.
I hope this helps others.

[bmwbob89]

What torque wrench did you use? I have one but it doesn't have angle.

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by bmwbob89

What torque wrench did you use? I have one but it doesn't have angle.

AC Delco. Off Amazon.

[Monroe94]

If I have my valve cover off should I replace my screws with the new updated ones I'm chasing a 2a7a and p054b. I had replaced my vanos solenoids and they returned a few days later I decided to remove my valve cover to check the bolts and they are all there I just need a slimmer torx to check the tightness. But they all have a standard torx head not a tampe proof torx but they are not black in color. Mine is also a 2011. Not sure what to try now I may end up swapping my cam sensors side to side to see if the issue follows to the other cam

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by Monroe94

If I have my valve cover off should I replace my screws with the new updated ones I'm chasing a 2a7a and p054b. I had replaced my vanos solenoids and they returned a few days later I decided to remove my valve cover to check the bolts and they are all there I just need a slimmer torx to check the tightness. But they all have a standard torx head not a tampe proof torx but they are not black in color. Mine is also a 2011. Not sure what to try now I may end up swapping my cam sensors side to side to see if the issue follows to the other cam

If you don't have the tamper proof screws then they were possibly already removed and replaced? That being said, if my VC was off I'd go ahead and replace them with the upgraded bolts thereby eliminating any question on each bolts history and torque value . It's a relatively easy thing to do, it just takes a bit of time.

Yes, you could swap the Vanos solenoids, I did that without any changes but my exhaust adjuster screws had already backed out.

Lastly, I would recommend removing and cleaning the Vanos filters accessible through-the right wheel well. Located under the VC on the front of the engine, they have been known to cause idle issues. I'm actually needing to do this because I still have a very slight post start engine idle wobble that I'm guessing is related to those tiny filters.

[Monroe94]

Originally Posted by SCS55

If you don't have the tamper proof screws then they were possibly already removed and replaced? That being said, if my VC was off I'd go ahead and replace them with the upgraded bolts thereby eliminating any question on each bolts history and torque value . It's a relatively easy thing to do, it just takes a bit of time.

Yes, you could swap the Vanos solenoids, I did that without any changes but my exhaust adjuster screws had already backed out.

Lastly, I would recommend removing and cleaning the Vanos filters accessible through-the right wheel well. Located under the VC on the front of the engine, they have been known to cause idle issues. I'm actually needing to do this because I still have a very slight post start engine idle wobble that I'm guessing is related to those tiny filters.

Thanks for the response I decided to leave the bolts alone I checked the torque and they were spot on. Just need to figure out what to try next for cold start vanous exhaust outlet and exhaust cam timing retarded. Also I have cleaned those inlet filters 6 months ago when changing out all my fluids on the car but I may recheck them if nothing else works.

While removing my cover I found oil in my ESS plug so now I'm waiting on a new ESS sensor to arrive before putting it back together. My fingers are crossed that it might be the culprit for my codes?

I should have it together by Friday. Also to note I had no running issues just the SES light coming and going with those 2 codes stored. The P054B says its a permanent code so it won't clear out. If the new ESS doesn't work I will swap my cam sensors side to side. My vanos solenoids are only a week old unless I got a bad one.