[klipseracer]

[klipseracer]

Fixed it.

I was at a total loss as to what the problem could possibly be. The only change that I had made was moving the car. Movement = things become loose. I re-tightened down all the battery cables and wiggled the BST box around and re-seated it and now all is fine. I have a video of the car's engine sounds that I want diagnosed. I'm not sure if the sounds are normal or if I have a little engine ticking.

[MkLV_M3]

I just had the same problem with my car, turned out it was a loose connection at the battery terminal in the engine compartment. I must have knocked it loose yesterday when I was working on some things. I'm glad I found this thread.

[fdriller9]

This doesn't sound like a battery problem.....it sounds like a module is failing and messing with all the sensors.

EDIT: Or a loose connection. Didn't realize you solved your problem.

[sea335i]

oh wow...this is exactly what Im having right now, and Im also still working on it as far as the bumper and the headlights.

MDL335i Can you please point it out to me, where is that battery terminal in the engine compartment is located? That could be my life saver!

[MkLV_M3]

If I remember correctly it was the connection behind the plastic part, by the arrow in this picture.

[sea335i]

Thanks for the pic, clean engine btw.
Just checked mine, and everything is tight there

[sea335i]

Any other ideas? I had a new battery installed and BST box replaced and still just a click.

[JuppiOne]

just curious, did you register the new battery after you replace it?

[sea335i]

Negative. I was told it wouldn't matter but now I going to have to do it.

[sea335i]

Solution: I replaced the Power Supply Distributor instead of BST, I know Im a dumbass

[rollinstone157]

Just make sure that if you replaced the battery yourself, that you code the car for a new battery (any indie shop can do this, or if you have a coding cable, you can do it yourself.) It needs to be done any time you change the actual battery, and any shop that says otherwise doesn't know our cars well enough!

You can do it at a BMW dealership, but they'll usually charge you a silly amount for it.

[sea335i]

Thanks, Im taking it to the german specialist in the next few days to reset my airbags, and will get that taken care of as well.

[330ijose]

Hey I have the same problem with my 2006 330i first I was changing a fuse cause it went bad after changing the fuse I tried to started it was the fuse to the cigarette lighter so after changing it the car won't start at all just the electronics and windows etc etc every time I try to start it it just makes a ticking noise any suggestions

[Wilt]

in another thread...

Originally Posted by 330ijose

I hear a clicking noise and my tansmission light came on and says my brakes are over heated

I have seen on another forum that when a new battery is installed in the E90 without battery registration, the car will operate fine for a while... but then after the battery is discharged, the car will begin to exhibit all sorts of oddball problems/fault codes for all sorts of oddly unrelated problems. The clicking seen by 330ijose is merely symptomatic of a discharged battery that cannot supply enough current to the starter.

From one particular thread about the oddities that can arise from an unregistered battery http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...76#post8937276

Originally Posted by Nutmegg

Previous night my Alarm had none-stop decided to go off...

Every warning light you could think of came up;
DSC Failure
Transmission Failure
Run-Flat tire pressure warning

I went to attempt to start the car and it was really weird. At first it wouldn't start.. At all!
...Then when it finally started it was misfiring and sounded like it was running off 4 cylinders.

I eventually managed to get the car moving, where it would constantly stall, ...
Went to start it back up and - OIL PRESSURE LOW -

...Engine has gone into "Failsafe Mode"
Car wont start/Turn over

gone back to transmission/asc/ Failure.

... idle voltage is a little low (9v-12v)

...I used my pretty standard fault code reader and got the following codes;

P1632
P1417
P1624
P1070
P0355

...With and without the alternator connector, I'm getting 0.5A to a spike of 6A!

I preceded with fuse pulling and managed to single it down to Fuse: 54 - 60A

Someone furnished this interpretation of the fault codes listed:

P1632 Throttle Valve Adaptation; Adaptation Condition Not Met
P1417 Port Air Relief Circuit Malfunction
P1624 Pedal Position Sensor Potentiometer Supply Channel 1 Electrical
P1070 ?? -- But P0170 is Fuel Trim Malfunction Bank 1
P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction

And finally what the ultimate resolution of the problem turned out to be...

Originally Posted by Nutmegg

So the BMW Is fixed!

I took It to bmw for a Diagnostic, where it appeared the fault was to do with the battery.

I had replaced the battery 4-5 Months ago, without getting it registered with BMW with no problem's, where the battery had gone completely flat the Car's Computers decided that It didn't like it any more, after being reconnected.

I never realised if I changed something quite simple as the battery I had to go to BMW to get it registered into the car's computer, luckily it registered all good what is rare apparently for non-BMW parts.

if you change anything electrical in the car and start having issues, the chances are BMW are going to have to register it.

Thanks for everyone's help.

After proper registration, the battery management begins controlling the charge to the battery in the proper manner, and all the oddball faults go away magically. And the charging of the battery will allow it to supply sufficient current to the starter.

[BMW Penang]

Hi Guys,
My BMW has encountered this error for months and has ask a workshop(self claim to be expert in repairing bmw) to solve for me and spend a lot of money still can't solve it. at the beginning the elv fault came out. tried with tool32 but not help. spent rm1300 for workshop to hire a key specialist to disable the elv lock and bypass the cas but only can last for 2 months then problem came back with difficulty to start the car till only car can get started at night! send the car back to him for check 2 months with no improvement at all! the key specialist said this error has no related to cas!
then i decided to send to another workshop (the manager is the former bmw engineer) and he fix the issue in 2 days!
what he did is he scan with ista and saw the error codes of cas in the list and 2 of them are short circuit in cas(Short Circuit Hall Sensor). he order the used cas and do cloning for it. that's it. total cost rm1400. he told me this issue is very common for all bmw.
so what i would like to inform all of u that if u have difficulty to start the car, click click noise inside the dashboard, key has difficulty to pull out after fail to start, other engine fault coded pops out after fail to start, included the elv lock and the same time the ista shows cas fault codes in the list means the cas is faulty and it's need replacement. u need specialist to do this for u and it is not very expensive and safe ur time. it has nothing to do with fuse box, battery, power distribution box or grounding cable.

Thanks.