[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

You didnt seat the locking ring down correctly on either the LPFP side or Regulator side. it should tell you when you read MHD the size of the leak (Sometimes). Take the tools and go counterclockwise first then clockwise to seat the ring evenly.

I am 99% sure the ring is seated correctly, as it took some fiddling to sit correctly. However, I spent far less time with a socket and hammer tightening the rings compared to loosening them (in case something went wrong and I had to get back in there). The regulator side was the hardest with a lot of pushing up on the ring, but it did feel like it was fully seated where it was supposed to be.

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

I am 99% sure the ring is seated correctly, as it took some fiddling to sit correctly. However, I spent far less time with a socket and hammer tightening the rings compared to loosening them (in case something went wrong and I had to get back in there). The regulator side was the hardest with a lot of pushing up on the ring, but it did feel like it was fully seated where it was supposed to be.

Check the regulator side, It does have alot of tension

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

Check the regulator side, It does have alot of tension

Will do that tonight. Thanks!

[N55xi]

Is this the fuel regulator I need for a 2011 335i xDrive?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ft-16117163295

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by N55xi

Is this the fuel regulator I need for a 2011 335i xDrive?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ft-16117163295

That is correct.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

That is correct.

Did you notice any other improvements with the regulator swap ?

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Did you notice any other improvements with the regulator swap ?

Yes, actually. Throttle response feels a lot sharper and there doesn't seem to be as much lag or hesitation when going WOT. Also, before the regulator swap I was experiencing some weird vibrations/oscillations in the lower RPM range, which are now completely gone. Finally, the dip in power/hesitation that I used to feel when going WOT between 4500-5k RPM is completely gone, the upper end of the RPM range feels much stronger.

Here is a Stage 2+ (newest update) log from yesterday. Cleanest log I have seen from my car since I was running Cobb maps back in the day: https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/stage-...26-27-28-29-30

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by Pladi

Did you notice any other improvements with the regulator swap ?

i Vouch for it. It helped my harsh cold starts and Fueling at WOT. I was actually surprised how big of a difference it makes

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

i Vouch for it. It helped my harsh cold starts and Fueling at WOT. I was actually surprised how big of a difference it makes

Me too. I only did it to help with my long cranks and stuttering on start up. All the other improvements that came along with it were simply bonuses. Though, it makes me pretty frustrated that I didn't know about this when these symptoms originally started occurring.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Yes, actually. Throttle response feels a lot sharper and there doesn't seem to be as much lag or hesitation when going WOT. Also, before the regulator swap I was experiencing some weird vibrations/oscillations in the lower RPM range, which are now completely gone. Finally, the dip in power/hesitation that I used to feel when going WOT between 4500-5k RPM is completely gone, the upper end of the RPM range feels much stronger.

Here is a Stage 2+ (newest update) log from yesterday. Cleanest log I have seen from my car since I was running Cobb maps back in the day: https://datazap.me/u/geirsenk/stage-...26-27-28-29-30

Oh dude thats a good log ! Wondering if i should replace it even though i dont have any long cranks. Its weird because the HPFP fixed my long cranks.

So bizarre. Anyways good to know.

[weehe126]

I did not notice a difference replacing mine and I had 130k miles on it.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by weehe126

I did not notice a difference replacing mine and I had 130k miles on it.

Did you have any long crank symptoms, etc? Have you replaced other parts of your fueling system prior? Is your car stock?

Not saying the regulator job is a end-all be-all that will magically fix any issues you have, but as someone who has replaced almost every damn part on my car, it was nice to see a simple and cheap job make such a noticeable difference.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Did you have any long crank symptoms, etc? Have you replaced other parts of your fueling system prior? Is your car stock?

Not saying the regulator job is a end-all be-all that will magically fix any issues you have, but as someone who has replaced almost every damn part on my car, it was nice to see a simple and cheap job make such a noticeable difference.

Had long cranks and new hpfp fixed that a while ago. Have been running stage 2 lpfp for 50+k miles, E35 with a PS2. Replaced the fpr to see if I could run E40 and more boost but it didn't change anything. Figured at 130k miles it was worth a shot.

[SnapCoupe]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Had long cranks and new hpfp fixed that a while ago. Have been running stage 2 lpfp for 50+k miles, E35 with a PS2. Replaced the fpr to see if I could run E40 and more boost but it didn't change anything. Figured at 130k miles it was worth a shot.

Interesting. Do you have any fuel pressure related shadow codes? Are you still on your original injectors?

The upgraded LPFP could also play in part to the effectiveness of the FPR.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by SnapCoupe

Interesting. Do you have any fuel pressure related shadow codes? Are you still on your original injectors?

The upgraded LPFP could also play in part to the effectiveness of the FPR.

Didn't have any codes. Have only replace 1 injector. I was just posting so people didn't think they would magically run better if they weren't having actual issues.

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Had long cranks and new hpfp fixed that a while ago. Have been running stage 2 lpfp for 50+k miles, E35 with a PS2. Replaced the fpr to see if I could run E40 and more boost but it didn't change anything. Figured at 130k miles it was worth a shot.

I would suggest not to expect anything increasing in boost with the FPR replacement. Being that it is mostly targeting, feeding fuel to the LPFP/HPFP.
It helps feed fuel within the lines when they aren't pressurized upon cold starts so that you wont have hesitation aswell as how much fuel you are feeding the engine during WOT.

In my opinion if you are looking to run more E and more boost i would check into re-tunes, Being that your already Stage 2 and PS2. I cant see why you couldn't run or get better performance on E40 without it being tuning related with the mods you have provided.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

I would suggest not to expect anything increasing in boost with the FPR replacement. Being that it is mostly targeting, feeding fuel to the LPFP/HPFP.
It helps feed fuel within the lines when they aren't pressurized upon cold starts so that you wont have hesitation aswell as how much fuel you are feeding the engine during WOT.

In my opinion if you are looking to run more E and more boost i would check into re-tunes, Being that your already Stage 2 and PS2. I cant see why you couldn't run or get better performance on E40 without it being tuning related with the mods you have provided.

I tune myself. I ran out of fuel when upping boost, that is why I replaced the fpr to see if it would help.

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by weehe126

I tune myself. I ran out of fuel when upping boost, that is why I replaced the fpr to see if it would help.

What LPFP are you running? and are your lines upgraded?

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

What LPFP are you running? and are your lines upgraded?

Fuel-it bucketless stage 2. Have the lines and E sensor to install next. Only thing that has helped hpfp pressure is removing the inlet filter.

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Fuel-it bucketless stage 2. Have the lines and E sensor to install next. Only thing that has helped hpfp pressure is removing the inlet filter.

hmm... Post a log if you can. This is interesting

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by DiFFv1

hmm... Post a log if you can. This is interesting

It's pretty normal from what I've seen. E30-E35 at 19-20psi on a PS2 is about all you can get consistently without getting misfires/low fuel pressure without port injection. I've just been trying all options to get more headroom. Only other thing is finding the table to raise the dc limit of the hpfp which should allow E50.

[DiFFv1]

Originally Posted by weehe126

It's pretty normal from what I've seen. E30-E35 at 19-20psi on a PS2 is about all you can get consistently without getting misfires/low fuel pressure without port injection. I've just been trying all options to get more headroom. Only other thing is finding the table to raise the dc limit of the hpfp which should allow E50.

Good to know, I went VTT but i'm currently re-tuning for a E35 map