[Fritzer]

You should always replace the pads and rotors at the same time. I've always used Akebono pads and Zimmerman rotors with zero issues. When was the last time you had the brake fluid serviced?

[Meeni]

If the rotors are shot, what you are describing is the expected outcome. The substantial lip on the rotors prevent the new pad (which are not shaped accordingly to the lip) from contacting the rotor, and braking power is poor. Change the rotors ASAP and follow bed-in procedure as recommended by Akebono.

I'm running a set of Akebono on Stoptech drilled rotors for more than 80k miles. Still running strong and not worn-off or even close.

Stopping power was underwhelming during the first winter (cold performance was meh, pedal feel would be inconsistent between warm and cold pads), but now it stops strong in any condition with no drama. Pedal feel is different than OE, but very predictable and I dare say provides better control, thanks to requiring longer pedal travel to get to full power (same ultimate power), hence more modulation. I'd buy again given the reduction in brake dust and very satisfactory performance on street applications.

[Anthony199]

Originally Posted by Fritzer

You should always replace the pads and rotors at the same time. I've always used Akebono pads and Zimmerman rotors with zero issues. When was the last time you had the brake fluid serviced?

I am not really sure about brake fluid service.
We decided to go with new pads new rotors to save some time. Zimmermans were not available so we had the get the OEM rotors... I have not having overnight shipping and online shopping in that country...

[Anthony199]

Originally Posted by Meeni

If the rotors are shot, what you are describing is the expected outcome. The substantial lip on the rotors prevent the new pad (which are not shaped accordingly to the lip) from contacting the rotor, and braking power is poor. Change the rotors ASAP and follow bed-in procedure as recommended by Akebono.

I'm running a set of Akebono on Stoptech drilled rotors for more than 80k miles. Still running strong and not worn-off or even close.

Stopping power was underwhelming during the first winter (cold performance was meh, pedal feel would be inconsistent between warm and cold pads), but now it stops strong in any condition with no drama. Pedal feel is different than OE, but very predictable and I dare say provides better control, thanks to requiring longer pedal travel to get to full power (same ultimate power), hence more modulation. I'd buy again given the reduction in brake dust and very satisfactory performance on street applications.

I really appreciate your input! Since it's my mom's car mostly, I didn't want to deal with single problem where she would say "I told you I want the genuine stuff"... For that reason, I told her to save the time and get both replaced, and I'll worry about the Akebonos... Unfortunately that's how it is We went with Bosch and OE rotors I believe. I'll ask the mechanic in couple hours, because the parents don't know what brand he installed, they just know it's good. I wish i could DIY this...

[Maestro]

Originally Posted by Meeni

If the rotors are shot, what you are describing is the expected outcome. The substantial lip on the rotors prevent the new pad (which are not shaped accordingly to the lip) from contacting the rotor, and braking power is poor. Change the rotors ASAP and follow bed-in procedure as recommended by Akebono.

I'm running a set of Akebono on Stoptech drilled rotors for more than 80k miles. Still running strong and not worn-off or even close.

I have to agree the EO pads and Rotor are design to work together. From what I read all the dust you see from OE set up comes from the wear of the pads as well as the rotor, the rotors on BWM are design to wear along with the pads this is why they can not really be resurfaced after you wear out pads.

Akebono pads are harder being ceramic so they do not mate well with the OE rotor especially ones which are worn. I pair my Akebono pads with StopTech Drilled rotors as well and they worked really well. I do not drive at edge of my life, however, I did not notice any performance drop off going to Akebone with the StopTech Rotors once you get pass the break-in period. I not seen any problems with my setup as well.

I also run Akebono on all my cars and have been doing this for 15 yrs now. They hold up well and have very good stopping power even on non performance cars.

[Anthony199]

So after the unreliable parts stores sent out wrong rotor sizes by Zimmerman as the mechanic expected, and after many phone calls, the conclusion is:
BMW brake pads we're used on Zimmerman rotors in the back only, and Bosch in the front. Total bill was $170 for back rotors, $220 for front, about $200 for pads, and $125 labor. I know parts are expensive but whatever... I can't do anything about it. Thanks for everyone who contributed. Braking is already much better.

[calicolorado]

Originally Posted by gjm120

Is that clunk more of a loud click? I've got a noise when I go from fwd to reverse and vice versa (like when backing into a parking spot).

I am very familiar with what you describe-I have that on my 328 and had in on our X5 with Akebonos. It's the pad slightly clocking in the caliper when you brake in reverse after driving forward and vice versa after you brake going forward (right after backing out and driving off). Kind of annoying, but my pads up front have 105k on them with no end in sight. I don't see it as a problem. I thought I used too much anti-seize on the back of the pad, allowing them to slide a little against the piston. Hope that helps.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by calicolorado

I am very familiar with what you describe-I have that on my 328 and had in on our X5 with Akebonos. It's the pad slightly clocking in the caliper when you brake in reverse after driving forward and vice versa after you brake going forward (right after backing out and driving off). Kind of annoying, but my pads up front have 105k on them with no end in sight. I don't see it as a problem. I thought I used too much anti-seize on the back of the pad, allowing them to slide a little against the piston. Hope that helps.

Exactly! Many thanks for this. Now I won't go pulling off wheels looking for an elusive click

Can certainly live with the low volume click, just didn't want to ignore it if was indicating something else being amiss.

[em5ive]

Originally Posted by gjm120

Exactly! Many thanks for this. Now I won't go pulling off wheels looking for an elusive click

Can certainly live with the low volume click, just didn't want to ignore it if was indicating something else being amiss.

I'm having the same issue with my E91. Took apart the brakes cleaned them up, applied some grease and it still makes the noise. The pads have tons of life left and they were services by the previous owner prior to my purchase early this year. So embarrassing when I come to a stop at the light when it happens. I'm assuming they're some sort of aftermarket pads as I did not see any BMW branding on them. How can I tell if they're Akebono, aside from messaging the previous owner almost a year later lol.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by em5ive

I'm having the same issue with my E91. Took apart the brakes cleaned them up, applied some grease and it still makes the noise. The pads have tons of life left and they were services by the previous owner prior to my purchase early this year. So embarrassing when I come to a stop at the light when it happens. I'm assuming they're some sort of aftermarket pads as I did not see any BMW branding on them. How can I tell if they're Akebono, aside from messaging the previous owner almost a year later lol.

I can't recall what marking my Akebono pads had, but, I have my OE pads and too a look at them. The fronts have BMW Jurid on them, rears have only Textar.

If you can post what markings are on a front and a rear - or better yet a pic. Maybe someone will recognise what they are.