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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > MHD Flasher for N54 - general discussion



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      07-11-2019, 04:43 PM   #12079
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Originally Posted by tylerboland01 View Post
Is anyone having trouble with Samsung's s10+ OTG usb? Recently upgraded and now I can't get MHD or protool to connect.
try connecting otg to phone first and then plug in cable to otg
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      07-11-2019, 04:44 PM   #12080
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Hey everyone.

I need some help with trouble shooting my car.

First time I flashed the car I was running jumper cables to another car and did a "pump gas" BEF. It went to 100% complete and showed the message that I need to turn off ignition and wait 30 seconds and start up. Car started and then dies right away. I tried flashing the "stock" flash same thing. Then I tried the map 0 same thing.

Emailed mhd and they told me to check fuel pump fuse. I replaced it because it was blown tried flashing again same thing.

I removed jb4 and tried again same thing. I check all fuses in fuse box all were good. Also when I did all flashes they went to 100% complete. So not sure why car isnt staying on.

Is there anything else I should check?
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      07-13-2019, 08:47 PM   #12081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphaeng View Post
Hey everyone.

I need some help with trouble shooting my car.
JB4 so I assume you have some mods, do you have a stock TMap or is it N20 or other 3.5 or 4 bar? Do you have datalogger on MHD whats your fuel low pressure showing for fuel pressure? fuel pump fuse is suspicious as MHD doesn't run the pump during flash (it did on older versions) Any fault codes?
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      07-13-2019, 09:56 PM   #12082
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Hey guys, I know some of you are using Amazon Fire tablets for MHD and I'm thinking of picking one up myself. Is there any reason to spend more on the Fire 8 HD tablet rather than the Fire 7? I've seen people report good results with both of these. I believe the Fire 7 will be only $29.99 on Prime Day next week and the Fire 8 HD will be $49.99.
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      07-14-2019, 12:38 AM   #12083
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I use a fire 7...works like a charm. I picked it up last year on prime day for $19.99.

Using any fire will require unlocking the google play store...it takes about 5 mins and there are instructions if you search for them...
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      07-14-2019, 08:09 AM   #12084
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Embarrassed to ask because I've had the MHD for years and have done this 10x before but I'm stuck! Installed coils and plugs, had a very slight uneven idle at part throttle, nothing big but decided to do a throttle reset. I've done this before so I know about the turn off/on wait 30 second deal. Did that but now I get a really wild idle, check engine light and 2CF6 code - Throttle Valve plausibility to air mass - every time.

Tried resetting many times, disconnecting the battery for a while, etc. I'm really stuck. Anything else to try? I really don't want to buy a new throttle body but would that even fix it? Will it eventually correct itself if it can be driven?

HELP!
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Last edited by chumley; 07-14-2019 at 08:21 AM..
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      07-14-2019, 08:41 AM   #12085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chumley View Post
Embarrassed to ask because I've had the MHD for years and have done this 10x before but I'm stuck! Installed coils and plugs, had a very slight uneven idle at part throttle, nothing big but decided to do a throttle reset. I've done this before so I know about the turn off/on wait 30 second deal. Did that but now I get a really wild idle, check engine light and 2CF6 code - Throttle Valve plausibility to air mass - every time.

Tried resetting many times, disconnecting the battery for a while, etc. I'm really stuck. Anything else to try? I really don't want to buy a new throttle body but would that even fix it? Will it eventually correct itself if it can be driven?

HELP!
Happen to me aswell last time i wanted to reset throttle (i waited too the 30 sec, respected the procedure)

Is the idle going crazy? like going to 2000 then 1000 in a loop ?

I ended up reflashing (short 2 minutes flash) and it started normally after that.

Now i am affraid to reset the throttle anymore!
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      07-14-2019, 09:45 AM   #12086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studio54 View Post
Happen to me aswell last time i wanted to reset throttle (i waited too the 30 sec, respected the procedure)

Is the idle going crazy? like going to 2000 then 1000 in a loop ?

I ended up reflashing (short 2 minutes flash) and it started normally after that.

Now i am affraid to reset the throttle anymore!
Yes, that's exactly what's it's doing... Tried reflashing (2 minute), and it's exactly the same....no difference. Wild idle from around 1k-2k back and forth.....
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      07-14-2019, 10:32 AM   #12087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chumley View Post
Yes, that's exactly what's it's doing... Tried reflashing (2 minute), and it's exactly the same....no difference. Wild idle from around 1k-2k back and forth.....
when the flash is over, you have to wait 30 seconds too, personnaly i pull off the key and wait 1 minute at least
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      07-14-2019, 11:21 AM   #12088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by studio54 View Post
when the flash is over, you have to wait 30 seconds too, personnaly i pull off the key and wait 1 minute at least
Ya, I tried that too. Same. Wildly oscillating throttle from about 1000-1500 rpm. Not sure what I am going to do. Replacing the throttle body may not even make a difference if there is something screwed with the DME or communication between the DME and throttle....
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      07-14-2019, 11:49 AM   #12089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007BMW335i View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tphaeng View Post
Hey everyone.

I need some help with trouble shooting my car.
JB4 so I assume you have some mods, do you have a stock TMap or is it N20 or other 3.5 or 4 bar? Do you have datalogger on MHD whats your fuel low pressure showing for fuel pressure? fuel pump fuse is suspicious as MHD doesn't run the pump during flash (it did on older versions) Any fault codes?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2007BMW335i View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tphaeng View Post
Hey everyone.

I need some help with trouble shooting my car.
JB4 so I assume you have some mods, do you have a stock TMap or is it N20 or other 3.5 or 4 bar? Do you have datalogger on MHD whats your fuel low pressure showing for fuel pressure? fuel pump fuse is suspicious as MHD doesn't run the pump during flash (it did on older versions) Any fault codes?

3.5 bar sensor. lpfp on my jb4 app is at 0. Could if be lpfp or maybe a fuse for the lpfp?

codes are 2e77: dme firing voltage supply
2fca: fuel high pressure.
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      07-14-2019, 05:06 PM   #12090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chumley View Post
Ya, I tried that too. Same. Wildly oscillating throttle from about 1000-1500 rpm. Not sure what I am going to do. Replacing the throttle body may not even make a difference if there is something screwed with the DME or communication between the DME and throttle....
Yes i don't know, but i remember doing some throttle reset sometimes without having a problem.

But the two last times i reset throttle, i went into this problem, and it solved by reflashing the map with the 2 minutes write.
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      07-14-2019, 07:01 PM   #12091
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Originally Posted by studio54 View Post
Yes i don't know, but i remember doing some throttle reset sometimes without having a problem.

But the two last times i reset throttle, i went into this problem, and it solved by reflashing the map with the 2 minutes write.
+1 to this...
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      07-17-2019, 09:53 AM   #12092
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Anyone go from Stage 1 to Stage 1+FMIC?

I'm currently at Stage 1 93 with just DCI. Pretty happy but if FMIC will make a big difference then ill go for it.
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      07-17-2019, 11:26 AM   #12093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg View Post
Anyone go from Stage 1 to Stage 1+FMIC?

I'm currently at Stage 1 93 with just DCI. Pretty happy but if FMIC will make a big difference then ill go for it.
Stage 1 to stage 1+ is a large jump in power, its like getting tuned again for the first time. I'd wager 1+ is a more aggressive map than the stage 2.

If you do i would definitely recommend a fmic, especially in summertime. You will get better performance but it'll be limited to the first pull or two because your intake temps will sky rocket.
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      07-17-2019, 01:12 PM   #12094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by type-dRew View Post
Stage 1 to stage 1+ is a large jump in power, its like getting tuned again for the first time. I'd wager 1+ is a more aggressive map than the stage 2.

If you do i would definitely recommend a fmic, especially in summertime. You will get better performance but it'll be limited to the first pull or two because your intake temps will sky rocket.
Hmm why would stage 1+ be more aggressive than stage 2? I thought the stage 2 requires dp's

Thanks i'll most likely go with the 5" vrsf
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      07-17-2019, 03:42 PM   #12095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by type-dRew View Post
Stage 1 to stage 1+ is a large jump in power, its like getting tuned again for the first time. I'd wager 1+ is a more aggressive map than the stage 2.

If you do i would definitely recommend a fmic, especially in summertime. You will get better performance but it'll be limited to the first pull or two because your intake temps will sky rocket.
Hmm why would stage 1+ be more aggressive than stage 2? I thought the stage 2 requires dp's

Thanks i'll most likely go with the 5" vrsf
Save your pennies and buy your second intercooler first.. thats my advice
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      07-17-2019, 09:29 PM   #12096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chumley View Post
Ya, I tried that too. Same. Wildly oscillating throttle from about 1000-1500 rpm. Not sure what I am going to do. Replacing the throttle body may not even make a difference if there is something screwed with the DME or communication between the DME and throttle....
I had this issue also. I re flashed to stock then reset the throttle calibration and followed the instructions EXACTLY, and problem solved. I was able to reflash to whatever map afterwards with no issues.
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      07-18-2019, 12:07 AM   #12097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg View Post
Hmm why would stage 1+ be more aggressive than stage 2? I thought the stage 2 requires dp's

Thanks i'll most likely go with the 5" vrsf
I ran 1+ on the stock IC but that was in Feb. Run the 1+ E30 map if you can get E85. It'll blow you away the first time you step on it. I have the VRSF 5" and IAT's barely move even on warmer days now. The newer one used the HD core so it a big improvement over the old style. Thats all you'll need, other than a charge pipe of course.
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      07-18-2019, 06:40 AM   #12098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkyardDogg View Post
Hmm why would stage 1+ be more aggressive than stage 2? I thought the stage 2 requires dp's

Thanks i'll most likely go with the 5" vrsf
Because an intercooler is far more important than downpipes
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      07-18-2019, 01:43 PM   #12099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by type-dRew View Post
Stage 1 to stage 1+ is a large jump in power, its like getting tuned again for the first time. I'd wager 1+ is a more aggressive map than the stage 2.

If you do i would definitely recommend a fmic, especially in summertime. You will get better performance but it'll be limited to the first pull or two because your intake temps will sky rocket.
Sounds great. Since it IS the middle of summer, I bought an VRSF i/c a couple weeks ago and they are backordered until the end of the month. Perfect time to not have intercoolers in stock... Would have been nice if N54tuning told me they were backordered when I purchased instead of weeks after when I never received a shipping email.
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      07-18-2019, 05:22 PM   #12100
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Originally Posted by HB E90 View Post
I ran 1+ on the stock IC but that was in Feb. Run the 1+ E30 map if you can get E85. It'll blow you away the first time you step on it. I have the VRSF 5" and IAT's barely move even on warmer days now. The newer one used the HD core so it a big improvement over the old style. Thats all you'll need, other than a charge pipe of course.
Nice! I'm sticking to pump gas 93 and have an ER charge pipe already. Planning on VRSF 5" HD. Although I think its out of stock, and those ebay intercoolers look tempting...
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