[addictedtoboost]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

Install this and report back:
https://speedtech.com/pages/bmw-n54

That link you posted has no relation to his front main seal. Please stay on topic. Not sure why you're spamming speedtech's products on this form.

Originally Posted by addictedtoboost

That link you posted has no relation to his front main seal. Please stay on topic. Not sure why you're spamming speedtech's products on this form.

Piss off dude

Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi

Pan is definitely coming off.

Someone talk me out of a single turbo going on.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi

Unidentified serpentine object.

Pan is definitely coming off.

Someone talk me out of a single turbo going on.

You don't need to drop the subframe. Just need to lower the pan enough to fit your hand in there. Easier said then done, but, you can definitely get a peak into the pan and pull belt out without needing to drop the pan entirely. Use that camera to take a peak up the pickup tube and see if the screen is clogged...

[buster84]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

You don't need to drop the subframe. Just need to lower the pan enough to fit your hand in there. Easier said then done, but, you can definitely get a peak into the pan and pull belt out without needing to drop the pan entirely. Use that camera to take a peak up the pickup tube and see if the screen is clogged...

If your already dropping the pan and putting on a new gasket why would you half ass the job? If he leaves even a small quiver of belt in the pan and it gets sucked into the oil pump and blocks it then your engine is done for. This issue is one of the worst to have happen, but half passing anything or ignoring a shredded belt without dropping the pan means your driving a car that could blow any day when the right conditions cause that small piece of belt to eventually make it's way to the pil pump, but hey it's your car, your engine, your money, your risks, so do as you please.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by buster84

If your already dropping the pan and putting on a new gasket why would you half ass the job? If he leaves even a small quiver of belt in the pan and it gets sucked into the oil pump and blocks it then your engine is done for. This issue is one of the worst to have happen, but half passing anything or ignoring a shredded belt without dropping the pan means your driving a car that could blow any day when the right conditions cause that small piece of belt to eventually make it's way to the pil pump, but hey it's your car, your engine, your money, your risks, so do as you please.

I didn't say don't drop the pan. I said you don't have to drop the subframe lol... You don't need the oil pan off the car to look inside or change the gasket. Undue the top nut on the engine mounts and jack the engine up until the trans hits the tunnel. That gives you several inches of clearance to clean the pan and saves you from dropping the subframe.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

I didn't say don't drop the pan. I said you don't have to drop the subframe lol... You don't need the oil pan off the car to look inside or change the gasket. Undue the top nut on the engine mounts and jack the engine up until the trans hits the tunnel. That gives you several inches of clearance to clean the pan and saves you from dropping the subframe.

But if all that does is let you drop it where you can reach your hand in and clean that’s still not good enough. It only take s a few millimeter of belt to clock the oil pump and when that happens your engine loses oil and blows up. If the pan cant be removed entirely where you can fully clean it out, degrease it, pressure wash it ect... then you risk missing the pieces removing the whole reason why you wanted to drop the pan from in the first place.

If you can remove the oil pan out from under the car and fully clean it outside of the car in the sunlight/shop light then your method is fine. If he was just replacing a gasket then your method would also be fine, the whole point of dropping and cleaning the pan out is to 100% sure that all of those tiny belt particles have been completely removed.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi

Unidentified serpentine object.

Pan is definitely coming off.

Someone talk me out of a single turbo going on.

I just did one the other day. Is almost impossible to replace the seals without proper tools. If new goes in and is little bit out of round from now going in perfectly even it won't seal on the hub. It will seal the block but not the hub. Someone replaced this previously and use pin punch (I assume) to push new in. It was damaged. it leaked. I had to push into the engine then cut it with dremel to get it out.

[addictedtoboost]

Originally Posted by feuer

I just did one the other day. Is almost impossible to replace the seals without proper tools. If new goes in and is little bit out of round from now going in perfectly even it won't seal on the hub. It will seal the block but not the hub. Someone replaced this previously and use pin punch (I assume) to push new in. It was damaged. it leaked. I had to push into the engine then cut it with dremel to get it out.

Oh wow that looked like it was a real pita to get out. Did you use a tool similar to by chance? My mechanic ordered one off of Amazon but they dropped the ball and never shipped it out. So I'm still down without a car currently. I even have a crank seal plate that just arrived today I am going to have installed, so another belt won't get sucked into the motor. Do you work at a shop in the chicagoland area?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...VZ0F4G95&psc=1

[ajsmithvmi]

I have the correct tool, just pulled the old seal with it last night and it was super easy.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by addictedtoboost

Oh wow that looked like it was a real pita to get out. Did you use a tool similar to by chance? My mechanic ordered one off of Amazon but they dropped the ball and never shipped it out. So I'm still down without a car currently. I even have a crank seal plate that just arrived today I am going to have installed, so another belt won't get sucked into the motor. Do you work at a shop in the chicagoland area?

I do, now just part time, and work from home.

[ajsmithvmi]

Well boys it's official. I've got a belt in my pan!

After I sucked some oil out of the drain hole, my scope was able to spy some definitely foreign objects down there.

[buster84]

I bet your happy you found out. Theres nothing worse than blowing your engine down the road only to find out it blew from a lack of oil pressure from a clogged oil pump with belt stuck in it. This is why I always advice people to just pull the pan. The labor to reach the pan is annoying, but it's better than just hoping it didnt happen.

Thanks for reporting back about the belt pieces you found. Hopefully this thread will help others rethink there decision to not drop their oil pans after shredding a belt.

[ajsmithvmi]

The borescope is so handy for this kind of stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endo.../dp/B01MYTHWK4

Can't recommend it highly enough.

[addictedtoboost]

Originally Posted by feuer

I do, now just part time, and work from home.

So you won't believe this, I had my car for 1 day after getting it picked up from the shop. I had the subframe and oil pan dropped along with vcg cleaned up and all the bits n pieces of the belt cleaned up as well. I had the crank seal plate installed at the same time so I wouldn't have this issue again if I were to have another belt shred. I replaced the rollers and pulleys/ tensioners all brand new OEM parts from fcpeuro a few weeks back. Today while driving, the battery light came on and power steering went out compeletly. I quickly pulled over in the nearest parking lot and shut the car off. I opened the hood only to find a shredded up pieces of belt, but no oil that I was able to see with the flashlight. Why or how this happened 1 day after getting my car out from the shop. What could be the cause of this? Power steering pulley is brand new as well, I went with the ECSTuning tuning one since imo it was an upgrade compared to stock.Anybody with any insight or suggestions on what might be causing this to happen would be great! I do have 2" VRSF Inlets installed. Both times the belt used was an oem belt. I'm kinda at a loss of ideas on what can be causing this. $500 in tows in less than a month apart really sucks.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by addictedtoboost

So you won't believe this, I had my car for 1 day after getting it picked up from the shop. I had the subframe and oil pan dropped along with vcg cleaned up and all the bits n pieces of the belt cleaned up as well. I had the crank seal plate installed at the same time so I wouldn't have this issue again if I were to have another belt shred. I replaced the rollers and pulleys/ tensioners all brand new OEM parts from fcpeuro a few weeks back. Today while driving, the battery light came on and power steering went out compeletly. I quickly pulled over in the nearest parking lot and shut the car off. I opened the hood only to find a shredded up pieces of belt, but no oil that I was able to see with the flashlight. Why or how this happened 1 day after getting my car out from the shop. What could be the cause of this? Power steering pulley is brand new as well, I went with the ECSTuning tuning one since imo it was an upgrade compared to stock.Anybody with any insight or suggestions on what might be causing this to happen would be great! I do have 2" VRSF Inlets installed. Both times the belt used was an oem belt. I'm kinda at a loss of ideas on what can be causing this. $500 in tows in less than a month apart really sucks.

Well it could be alternator, AC compressor or steering pump that is shredding the belts. Could be defective new part installed. Could be installer error of belt wasn't routed or sitted correctly. I would go back to the shop.

[RJC612]

Always wanted to see someone go with this one
http://www.ad-eng.net/store/p25/AD_E...F335i_%29.html

[RJC612]

Originally Posted by addictedtoboost

So you won't believe this, I had my car for 1 day after getting it picked up from the shop. I had the subframe and oil pan dropped along with vcg cleaned up and all the bits n pieces of the belt cleaned up as well. I had the crank seal plate installed at the same time so I wouldn't have this issue again if I were to have another belt shred. I replaced the rollers and pulleys/ tensioners all brand new OEM parts from fcpeuro a few weeks back. Today while driving, the battery light came on and power steering went out compeletly. I quickly pulled over in the nearest parking lot and shut the car off. I opened the hood only to find a shredded up pieces of belt, but no oil that I was able to see with the flashlight. Why or how this happened 1 day after getting my car out from the shop. What could be the cause of this? Power steering pulley is brand new as well, I went with the ECSTuning tuning one since imo it was an upgrade compared to stock.Anybody with any insight or suggestions on what might be causing this to happen would be great! I do have 2" VRSF Inlets installed. Both times the belt used was an oem belt. I'm kinda at a loss of ideas on what can be causing this. $500 in tows in less than a month apart really sucks.

Something isn't straight. I have seen similar issues before. Sometimes when belts fly off they can Nick and damage otherthings like idlers tensioner AC pulley etc. Somehow it has to be walking off assuming it was install related

[Andrew3424]

Originally Posted by ajsmithvmi

Lost my serpentine belt this weekend on track. I don't think it was front subframe contact as my power steering pulley is still intact. I believe it might have gotten oily from the OFH.

Anyway, upon inspection i definitely need to replace the Front Main Seal. My question is, how bad does this look?

Is this a "drop the pan and check the valve cover" belt failure or did I just rip the main seal?

Going thru the same thing on my car now. I went thru 4 belts. Changed everything pulleys, tensioner, power steering pump. Ended up being my motor mount that are shot causing the belt to continually hit the sub frame. Apparently it's a common thing.

[addictedtoboost]

Originally Posted by feuer

Well it could be alternator, AC compressor or steering pump that is shredding the belts. Could be defective new part installed. Could be installer error of belt wasn't routed or sitted correctly. I would go back to the shop.

Okay I found the reason why this is happening, The 2" VRSF silicone inlets I have installed the front one is making contact with 2 of the rollers/pullys causing the belt the come off track and shread up. I have read a few posts about people using zip ties and pulling it away from the rollers by tying it to the radiator shroud. I am not sure how strong or long plastic zip ties will last but I need to find a pernament solution to this as I can not afford to have another belt get chewed up leaving me stranded waiting for a flatbed tow. My other option I think is to buy a different brand of 2" silicone inlets such as Vargas branded ones I hear don't have any issues with rubbing or contact with the pullys. Would you have any other suggestions?

[buster84]

Originally Posted by addictedtoboost

Okay I found the reason why this is happening, The 2" VRSF silicone inlets I have installed the front one is making contact with 2 of the rollers/pullys causing the belt the come off track and shread up. I have read a few posts about people using zip ties and pulling it away from the rollers by tying it to the radiator shroud. I am not sure how strong or long plastic zip ties will last but I need to find a pernament solution to this as I can not afford to have another belt get chewed up leaving me stranded waiting for a flatbed tow. My other option I think is to buy a different brand of 2" silicone inlets such as Vargas branded ones I hear don't have any issues with rubbing or contact with the pullys. Would you have any other suggestions?

How many miles are on your car? If over 100k I'd buy some IS motor mounts and install those since the motor mounts are known to fail which affects the alightment of everything.

22116793240 - driver side
22116760330 - passenger side

Genuine BMW IS mount will cost you an extra for a proper upgrade over the other mounts. So if you dont go that way, some new ones or aftermarket should work. With upgraded turbos and track visits having good motor mounts is a must, any deviation in the engines alignment from all that power shreds belts.

[addictedtoboost]

Originally Posted by buster84

How many miles are on your car? If over 100k I'd buy some IS motor mounts and install those since the motor mounts are known to fail which affects the alightment of everything.

22116793240 - driver side
22116760330 - passenger side

Genuine BMW IS mounts will cost you $$ for a proper upgrade. So if you dont go that way, some new ones or aftermarket should work. With upgraded turbos and track visits having good motor mounts is a must, any deviation in the engines alignment from all that power shreds belts.

I have 177k miles and just replaced my motor mounts with brand new OEM motor mounts. I have a 08 335xi e92 n54 $680 for just 1 motor mount is crazy expensive. What's the difference between stock motor mounts and the IS motor mounts?

[buster84]

Originally Posted by addictedtoboost

I have 177k miles and just replaced my motor mounts with brand new OEM motor mounts. I have a 08 335xi e92 n54 $680 for just 1 motor mount is crazy expensive. What's the difference between stock motor mounts and the IS motor mounts?

Which part numbers did you buy? The reason people get the IS mounts on the right side is because the increased torque from high HP causes the engine to shift and the IS mounts hold the engine in place better. How much power are you pushing now?

I just edited my other post as you replied. I found it here for $240 at ECS. Its mostly just a right side upgrade, the left side doesnt need it.