[eyelobes]

Originally Posted by Torgus

bucketless is stupid. Just add more fuel pumps or a surge tank etc. The small gain does not outweigh the negatives.

I will more than likely go witht he precision raceworks bucketed plug and play.

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by eyelobes

I will more than likely go with the precision raceworks bucketed plug and play.

If you are just doing a walbro 450 you can DIY it for $120ish. That would be my suggestion unless you are going with multiple pumps just cuz it's cheap.

PR does have nice stuff.

[eyelobes]

i'm not going to DIY the fuel pump, i don['t trust myself to not screw it up. Even though i did the turbos, I don't really know if I want to start cutting into the stock bucket. Same reason I haven't done a DTM retro on my pre-lci headlights

[Cabdriver]

Originally Posted by eyelobes

So looks like 20psi is the target right now. Did my first pull at lunch time. Kept it off of the kick down.

https://datazap.me/u/eyelobes/log-15...-4-21-24-29-30

Your WGDC is barely trotting at ~50%/~20 PSI @ 6.5k rpm....lots of headroom to crank it up.

[Torgus]

Originally Posted by eyelobes

i'm not going to DIY the fuel pump, i don['t trust myself to not screw it up. Even though i did the turbos, I don't really know if I want to start cutting into the stock bucket. Same reason I haven't done a DTM retro on my pre-lci headlights

There are literal step by step you tube videos for the job, it's not bad at all. If you can do turbos this is nothing I just threw one in my buddies car the other day.

But I understand just wanting something off the shelf. But you pay out the nose for it.

[eyelobes]

Take this with a massive grain of salt, but here is the virtual Dyno from Ken's base map. Each pull was going a different direction in the highway, so that should negate grade. Weight, tire, and wheel size are correct. Only issue I saw was lpfp hit 49psi and redline, hence the talk for a stage 2

[NoGuru]

Looks pretty good for a Virtual. After the upgraded LPFP, you could crank her up some and be around 600ish?

[Emilime75]

Have their been any tests to show how accurate virtual dynos actually are?

How do you know the weight is correct? Have you weighed your car?

[pagedownhere]

damn was that on 93 or E mix?

[Jerain]

Virtual Dyno is worthless without full screenshot from all digits on you screen (leftside included) AND the same Datazap.me file...

[blaster3500]

Originally Posted by Jerain

Virtual Dyno is worthless without full screenshot from all digits on you screen (leftside included) AND the same Datazap.me file...

Yeah until you use a log from going downhill

[eyelobes]

I posted the data zap from earlier, where it was hitting 21.5 psi.

Ken turned it down to help my lpfp pressure. Here is the latest log from that.

https://datazap.me/u/eyelobes/log-15...og=0&data=3-21

[eyelobes]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Have their been any tests to show how accurate virtual dynos actually are?

How do you know the weight is correct? Have you weighed your car?

Haven't weighed my car, but used curb weight plus my own. If anything it would be lighter than stock due to hks full exhaust and Apex arc 8s. Those are 2 different logs going in opposite directions on the same highway at the same point. I was surprised how consistent it is. BUT, I know I'm not actually make that much on 93, or else that would be a record somewhere.

[Jerain]

Originally Posted by eyelobes

I posted the data zap from earlier, where it was hitting 21.5 psi.

Ken turned it down to help my lpfp pressure. Here is the latest log from that.

https://datazap.me/u/eyelobes/log-15...og=0&data=3-21

For me VD was mostly accurate, but I don't think you get real 570whp with only 21-18psi and 6 timing crk in high rpm on 93 pump gas.
For example my mhd V5 E40 gives me around 21-17psi and 13 timing crk high rpm and vd show around 440whp...

[eyelobes]

Yeah something was funky. Latest revision at 19 psi showed 440whp on a perfectly level back country road yesterday. I'm more inclined to say that is closer to what I'm pulling.

[Jerain]

Originally Posted by eyelobes

Yeah something was funky. Latest revision at 19 psi showed 440whp on a perfectly level back country road yesterday. I'm more inclined to say that is closer to what I'm pulling.

500 bhp on 93 with hybrids low psi isn't bad at all, it's what the Pure 600 do... But you have hybrids so get that lpfp, add some E and start pushing those dynamics see if they hold.

[eyelobes]

Originally Posted by Jerain

500 bhp on 93 with hybrids low psi isn't bad at all, it's what the Pure 600 do... But you have hybrids so get that lpfp, add some E and start pushing those dynamics see if they hold.

Unfortunately don't have E I'm my area, will go as high and safe as I can on 93 and add meth later on. Just need to determine if I wanna charge pipe or PI

[KnighTT]

I went ahead and ordered a pair of stg 2+ when the black friday price came out. If anyone is on the fence about these, I would e-mail Shawn and just have a talk. He's happy to hand out his number and talk about the setup.

[WoodE30]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

I went ahead and ordered a pair of stg 2+ when the black friday price came out. If anyone is on the fence about these, I would e-mail Shawn and just have a talk. He's happy to hand out his number and talk about the setup.

What other turbos were you considering? I'm considering RB twos plus.

[KnighTT]

Pure600's were at the top of my list. They had the proven performance and the solid reviews I was looking for before I started to check the rest of the market. Around $1,900-$2,200 depending on if they are on sale.

What made me decide on these? The truth is, most of the stage 2's across most brands seem to house the same technology.

- Moved to a cast "torbofold". This gets rid of the restriction where the manifold was welded to turbo in the OEM design. Plus, this is supposed to make the turbo setup as a whole cheaper to manufacture. All designs now seem to have this unless you move up to the "Game Changer" on one brand or the Tomioka. Better flow? Maybe.
- All seem to have the TD04L 9 blade turbine.
- Most have the 6x6 upgraded billet compressor wheel.
- 2" inlet for higher flow. Some have 1.75 but almost all allow an upgrade to 2" for free.
- Wastegate with thicker rod, upgraded arms, etc.
- 14mm thrust collars upgraded from 10mm. Even Turbo Lab does this in rebuild.


So, at the end of the day, most of the stage 2's don't have much to set them apart.

DAW offered the Garrett GTX II 11 blade compressor wheel for a couple bucks more. This does give you more up on the top end. That is a bit different than other offerings.

3 year warranty. Trick here is, like any brand, is to follow the stipulations of the warranty. Follow their approved oils, specifications, limitations, and supporting hardware. Truth is you need to prove yourself not-guilty to get expensive parts replaced in the high performance world. Too many guys bouncing off the redline 5 minutes after bolting on a new turbo gives companies reasons to ask questions.

Black Friday price was under $1,400...that made it really hard to talk myself into another option for up to $1k more.

Is there a risk, based on not having an overwhelming presence of reviews on DAW, sure. With a little bit of know-how, understanding of turbos, and research, these are a good bet. I did a lot of research and talked to the owner before I ordered mine.

[WoodE30]

Originally Posted by KnighTT

Pure600's were at the top of my list. They had the proven performance and the solid reviews I was looking for before I started to check the rest of the market. Around $1,900-$2,200 depending on if they are on sale.

What made me decide on these? The truth is, most of the stage 2's across most brands seem to house the same technology.

- Moved to a cast "torbofold". This gets rid of the restriction where the manifold was welded to turbo in the OEM design. Plus, this is supposed to make the turbo setup as a whole cheaper to manufacture. All designs now seem to have this unless you move up to the "Game Changer" on one brand or the Tomioka. Better flow? Maybe.
- All seem to have the TD04L 9 blade turbine.
- Most have the 6x6 upgraded billet compressor wheel.
- 2" inlet for higher flow. Some have 1.75 but almost all allow an upgrade to 2" for free.
- Wastegate with thicker rod, upgraded arms, etc.
- 14mm thrust collars upgraded from 10mm. Even Turbo Lab does this in rebuild.


So, at the end of the day, most of the stage 2's don't have much to set them apart.

DAW offered the Garrett GTX II 11 blade compressor wheel for a couple bucks more. This does give you more up on the top end. That is a bit different than other offerings.

3 year warranty. Trick here is, like any brand, is to follow the stipulations of the warranty. Follow their approved oils, specifications, limitations, and supporting hardware. Truth is you need to prove yourself not-guilty to get expensive parts replaced in the high performance world. Too many guys bouncing off the redline 5 minutes after bolting on a new turbo gives companies reasons to ask questions.

Black Friday price was under $1,400...that made it really hard to talk myself into another option for up to $1k more.

Is there a risk, based on not having an overwhelming presence of reviews on DAW, sure. With a little bit of know-how, understanding of turbos, and research, these are a good bet. I did a lot of research and talked to the owner before I ordered mine.

Nice, I just pulled the trigger on these too.

[Knerr]

Welcome to the show gentlemen.

If you read the thread up til now, you will see that there are a handful of concerned citizens hellbent on preventing people from buying these.. You will also notice their silence since DAW honored their warranty even though they did not need to.

Looking forward to hearing about your progress!