[SSW]

Originally Posted by Markus8291

not sure why the actual speed doesn't work for you but I coded it into my car and it works just fine. Some friends of mine have it done too and no issues. Besides coding the digital speedo, there is another option that needs to be changed "bc_korrektur" needs to be "nicht_aktiv" and it should work no problem. Hopefully your coder can get it figured out.

Thanks for the tip! I'll forward it to my coder.

[tcharged]

You definitely need a road safety kit with a 335i. Chances are it will break down on the side of the road anytime!

[SSW]

Originally Posted by tcharged

You definitely need a road safety kit with a 335i. Chances are it will break down on the side of the road anytime!

Witty sarcasm noted.

[SSW]

Taking the car back in this Sat to have the fold/unfold mirror function removed and to try to get the "actual speed" option to work on the digital speedometer.

If the coder can do it, I'm also going to ask him to try to change the Triple Turn Signal Blinker function from 3 to 6 blinks per this thread:

Changing Triple Turn Signal Blink Count

I also lined up another set of 193M wheels that I'm hoping to pick up in SoCal on Sunday. If I get them, I'll be mounting the Michelin PSS non-RFTs and the new TPMS sensors (that are currently sitting in my garage) on them on Monday.

My 2008 E90 should then look like this instead:



Will post actual pics if/when I get the wheels/tires mounted on the car.

Will then have to decide whether I want to try to sell the 162 wheels w/the Bridgestone RFTs on them. Several sets "for sale" here for awhile that remain "unsold." So, it'll probably be a difficult sell. If I can't (or decide not to) sell them, I may just put a set of all season tires on the 162s and use them if I ever drive the 335i up to the mountains in winter.

We'll see . . .

Update 02/22/14:

Took awhile but I got the keyfob mirror fold function undone and got the "actual speed" option in the M digital speedo activated. Analog only reads about 3-4 mph faster at 70+ mph. Not that much but it's nice to have an accurate speed indicator now.

Coder was unable to program the 6 blink turn signal function. The ECU program for my car did not match the one in the DIY 6 blink thread and my coder did not have any prior experience doing this himself. Will have to see if anyone else can do it for me.

Reinstalled the Cobb AP3 Stage 1+FMIC Sport map after the additional coding was done today. Nice to get the power "bump" back after running w/the "stock" PPK1 flash for the past week. However, this time, I installed the Stock Throttle (ST) version of this map instead of the Linear Throttle (LT) version that I installed before.

There is definitely an earlier power rush w/the ST that's not available w/the LT and it's very easy to start going "too fast." It's not impossible to control the acceleration w/the ST but LT does provide more predictable power delivery. Don't notice any significant differences between the revs/shifting w/the Alpina B3 AT flash after the Cobb tune which changes some of the shift points.

More bad news about the set of 193M wheels that I have been trying to buy for the past 2 months. The latest set that I lined up was not "perfect" as advertised and had some annoying edge chips. So, rather than try to rush this wheel purchase, I passed and will just have to wait until I've recovered after my shoulder surgery (in 3-4 months) before looking for another set that I'll find satisfactory.

Oh well . . .

Update 03/07/14:

Lined up another set of 193M rims in SoCal. Seller says they're "perfect" and the pics look good. Driving down there in my truck this weekend to pick them up. They come w/2011+ sensors that I have to remove and sell. They also come with essentially new Bridgestone RFTs with only 75-100 miles on them that I'll have to remove as well. I'll mount the new pre-LCI sensors and the new Michelin PSSs that I already bought onto the 193Ms instead.

Then I'll have to decide whether to mount the new Bridgestone RFTs off of the 193Ms onto the 162s (and ditch the old Bridgestone RFTs) before selling them, or just leave the 162s the way they are and sell the 162s w/the old RFTs on them and the new RFTs, separately. Then again, it might be better to sell off the new RFTs and put a set of Continental DWS tires on the 162s to keep as a backup winter/rainy weather set. However, I never drive the 335i in the rain and the chances of my doing any winter driving in the 335i is nil. So, perhaps it would be better to just sell off the 162s & the new RFTs to recoup some money from the purchase of the 193Ms. If I do it right, I might be able to get ALL my money back on the purchase of the 193Ms which would essentially make it a trade.

Decisions, decisions . . .

Update 03/09/14:

Hooray!!!!

Bought a set of 193M Wheels w/Bridgetone RFTs, TPMS sensors, and wheel caps today for $1200. Didn't need the sensors, caps or RFTs but bought the works just to get the wheels.

The wheels are PERFECT!! Not a blemish on them. Had to drive 683 miles and spend 11 hours and $197.25 on gas round trip to & from SoCal to get them but it was worth it. The RFTs also look brand new and are barely scuffed; seller said he only put 75-100 miles on them and it looks like that.

Will have to remove the 2010+ sensors and RFTs and mount the OEM 2006-2009 sensors and Michelin PPS's (that I already bought) on them. Will sell the 2010+ TPMS sensors on line here BUT I'll still have to decide what to do w/my 162's and the RFTs as noted above.

Update 03/11/14:

Got the 193Ms mounted w/my new 2006-2009 TPMS sensors and Michelin PPS tires today. Looks GREAT! Ever try removing and mounting a set of tires one armed? I did it today but only because I have a pneumatic air gun which made the job a lot easier.

Going to take the car out for a drive along the Delta to test out the tires tomorrow and will post pics of the tires/wheels along w/ads for the Bridgestone RFTs, the 2010-2013 TPMS sensors and my 162 wheels after I get back. However, FWIW, my car just looks identical to the car in the pic above BUT it looks much more pleasing to me w/the 193M rims than it did w/the ellipsoid 162s.

Update 03/19/14:

I've already been able to sell the 2010-2013 TPMS sensors and the Bridgestone RFTs off of the 193M wheels. Still need to sell my 162 wheels/tires/sensors/caps and, when I do, I'll be able to recoup all of the money spent on the 193Ms and the VSRF spacers that I purchased too.

Update 03/21/14:

Hooray!! Just sold my 162 wheels (w/the RFTs, caps and TPMS) and I've recouped the entire purchase price for the 193M wheels and the VRSF spacers but I'm still out the cost of re-conditioning the 2 front 162s and the cost of driving down to SoCal to get the 193Ms but that's ok, because the net cost to me for the 193Ms and spacers then comes out to just around $580 or $145 per wheel, which is fine by me.

Perhaps a better way of thinking about the costs is to separate the wheels from the tires. The 193M wheels/sensors and tires cost $1200 all together. The Michelin tires cost $952 plus $128 for mounting/balancing-- call it $1080 less $600 for the RFTs sold for a net cost of $480 (or $120 each) for the tires alone.

That leaves $600 for the cost of the 193Ms plus $200 for diesel (driving to/from SoCal) and $140 for the spacers, less $600 for the sale of the 162 wheels and $150 for the sale of the 193M sensors, for a net cost of $190 for the 193M wheels (or only $47.50 per wheel). Sounds a lot better when I think of the costs in this way.

[SSW]

When I replaced the cabin air filter recently, I discovered that some ham-fisted mechanic cracked the 2 front tabs on the upper cabin filter housing AND stripped several of the bolt screws that attach it to the cowling.

So, I may need to replace the upper cabin air filter housing and do the DIY Cabin Air Filter Screw Hole Fix unless I do the M3 Cowl mod instead.

Update 02/22/14:

Decided to just buy a new upper cabin air filter housing and not do the M3 Cowl mod. Picked it up from East Bay BMW and got a BMW "club" discount on it. So, it only cost $41.30 + tax which wasn't much more than RealOEM.com's price.

Currently on the group buy list in the DIY "cabin air filter screw hole fix" thread for a set of plastic bolt inserts and will wait til I get them before installing the new upper cabin filter housing.

Update 02/28/14:

Just received 2 sets (12) of brass inserts and M5 bolts to repair the damaged cabin air filter housing holes. Cost $10.92. Have to wait a month or so until I can install the inserts due to my shoulder surgery a few days ago.

Update 03/10/14:

This is ALL DONE!

Left arm is still pretty useless but was able to do the job essentially one-handed. A very easy and professional looking fix!

[tman]

Wow. I sure did enjoy reading this thread. I thought I was crazy in "refreshing/modding" the 2006 330i that I just bought. Seems I'm not the only OCD crazy BMW owner out there. I'm gonna post what I did to mine soon.

Keep it up man!!

[SSW]

Originally Posted by tman

Wow. I sure did enjoy reading this thread. I thought I was crazy in "refreshing/modding" the 2006 330i that I just bought. Seems I'm not the only OCD crazy BMW owner out there. I'm gonna post what I did to mine soon.

Keep it up man!!

Glad you enjoyed it. Was hoping to get "everything" done by now, but the saga continues.

[SSW]

Well, looks like when the coder was trying to figure out how to change the turn signals from 3 to 6 blinks, he wiped out some of the lighting changes he coded in earlier.

So, I'm going to have to take it back again to get the following redone:

-- fog lights on when high beams are on
-- angel lights on for daytime running lights
-- amber lights off except when turning.

No biggie, but I'm going in for shoulder surgery in a couple of days. So, the redo will have to wait until I feel well enough to drive again. And, before I leave the next time, I'm going to make sure ALL of the changes that were supposed to be done are still working.

Oh well . . .

Update 02/27/14:

Hmmm . .. the coder who did the work left the shop and is not longer available to redo the coding that was lost. The shop is offering me an $80 refund for the lost coding but I'll still have to find another coder to do the work. Oh well . . .


Update 02/28/14:

Replaced my windshield last month and it looks like I "may" need to get the windshield washer rain sensor "re-initialized" to work properly after the change. So, I'll ask the "new" coder if he can to that too. See: You Need To Re-initialize Rain Sensor If . . .

Update 03/01/14:

Have an appointment w/a highly recommended freelance coder in Sunnyvale to get all of this work done next week.

Update 03/08/14:

Ok, all of the coding is all squared away for now. Got the following done today for another $100:

1) ambers off except when turning
2) fogs lights on w/high beams
3) 3-6 blink turn signal change
4) daytime running lights (DRLs) always off
5) rain sensor re-initialized

Was going to get angel eyes on for DRLs (which was done by the previous coder) but I don't normally drive w/DRLs on and when I turned off the DRLs w/iDrive, it caused the 6 blink turn signal to disappear. Apparently, ANY change in the lighting features will cause iDrive to overwrite the 3-6 blink change. So, I asked the coder to just turn the DRLs off permanently and to re-flash the 6 blink function, so that I have no need to alter the lighting w/iDrive again.

Also asked the coder to turn off the TMPS permanently but he was unable to do so. Thinks he can do it if I install some non-compliant wheels w/no or the wrong sensors BUT I don't think I'm going to bother doing that.

Anyway, I've got the car coded the way I want it now and I'm finally ALL DONE w/the coding changes!

[SSW]

I'm going to do the switch change to activate the rear "foglights" too. It's simple and very discrete.



Not going to do the DIY kludgy switch mod described here, but am going to order an entirely new European switch for $150 from ECS here. Going to order the trim tool removal kit here too.

Update: 03/07/14:

This is ALL DONE! Looks just like the pic above. It was really EASY to do with the trim tool BUT I wouldn't try it without it. You can find my report about the install in the DIY thread here.

Just watched the ECS Installation Video a couple of times before doing it myself.

Only thing I don't like is that the switch does not have any on/off lights to indicate that the front or rear fogs are on or not when you push the buttons. While you can tell by the light intensity whether the front fogs are on, you really can't tell if the rear fogs are on without going to the back and looking.

[SSW]

Here's a snapshot of my E90 with the newly purchased 193M wheels and Michelin PSS tires on it.



Like the look of the 193Ms much better than the 162s. Took the car out for a 100 mile drive today to test out the tires. The Michelin tires are exceptional. Grip and handling is much better than w/the Bridgestone RFTs. The Michelins are also less noisy and more compliant than the RFTs.

I was considering some suspension mods but, after driving on the Michelins, that may not be necessary, given how much better the car handles w/the Michelins on it. So, although I "may" still do some suspension work, I'm ALL DONE now with the wheels and tires!

[Meeni]

I preferred your previous wheels (the M3 ones).

With all the stuff you lug around, you have no usable trunk anymore. Buy a cayman already

[SSW]

Originally Posted by Meeni

I preferred your previous wheels (the M3 ones).

The new wheels are M3 (Style 193) as shown in Post #54. The old ones were "ellipsoid" OEM Style 162s shown in Post #26. If you're interested, the 162s are now for sale.

Originally Posted by Meeni

With all the stuff you lug around, you have no usable trunk anymore. Buy a cayman already

I actually don't have any other use for the trunk. I don't carry much and, if I'm buying a lot of things that won't fit in the 335i, I drive my F250 truck instead.

[Meeni]

Originally Posted by SSW

The new wheels are M3 (Style 193) as shown in Post #54. The old ones were "ellipsoid" OEM Style 162s shown in Post #26. If you're interested, the 162s are now for sale.

I was referring to the pictures in post #31 with style 219. But now I see these were not your pictures.

Your new wheels certainly look better than 162

[SSW]

Originally Posted by Meeni

Your new wheels certainly look better than 162

Thanks!

It's nothing fancy, lots of other E9x's w/193Ms out there, but I'm trying to keep the changes to my car subtle -- for the most part "useful" as opposed to purely cosmetic (which is what the wheels are) -- and as cost effective as possible.

The only other cosmetic change I have planned for now is the repainting of the hood and fenders. I was going to only repaint the hood because it has a lot of chips & nicks in it and the clear coat seemed to get a little "cloudy" w/age BUT, after thinking about it further, it seemed a good idea to hit the fenders too because they also have a few nicks in them and they might not blend in well with the hood if they aren't repainted too. So, going to get them all repainted for $1100 (which is only about $450 more than the estimate for the hood alone) and then the car will "look" pretty much brand new.

Was thinking about changing the front bumper too but the bumper is in pretty good shape and I'll just wait until (if and when) it gets damaged before doing that.

After the repainting is done, other than a few odds and ends, I think I'll be ALL DONE!

Gotta put a lid on the expenses somewhere. After the repainting, I'll be into the car for about $7k above the purchase price of $16k -- roughly $2.5k for cosmetics and $4.5k for performance changes, coding and other things. The car only "books" for $19k and that value will only continue to go lower -- not higher -- and I don't want to put much more into the car than it's worth.

So, although I'd also "like" to get the suspension lowered and tightened up w/a set of Koni sport shocks/struts and an Eibach Pro-plus kit plus some shorter E36/Z4 bump stops, that'll end up costing about an additional $2.5k (including labor) and, although it'll look cool and should significantly improve the car's handling, I really don't drive the car hard and fast enough to justify that additional cost-- particularly since the addition of the Michelin PPS tires alone has so vastly improved the car's handling.

Maybe I'll just go w/the Koni FSD w/the OEM sport springs and call it a day.

[SSW]

Ok, ok, ok . . . this is absolutely the LAST major thing that I'm going to do to the car before calling it quits.

As noted above, I thought about going all out and buying and installing the Eibach Pro-kit w/lowering springs & sway bars, Koni yellow shocks/struts and E36/Z4 bump stops to "improve" my car's suspension. However, I have no intention of racing the car on the track and I only drive on public roads. I've also had adjustable shocks before but I never bothered adjusting them after the 1st set up. As with most things, I prefer to "set it" and "forget it."

So, why bother going that route?

I went back and re-read all of the Koni FSD threads in the forum that I could find. Most of the "reviews" of the FSD w/the Sport or Eibach spring combo are very good for those guys (like me) who are looking for a combination of comfort and performance and who primarily use their cars as daily drivers, who do not track their cars and who only occasionally drive aggressively in the backroads and twisties.

The FSDs aren't "perfect" but the require no adjustments and are reportedly much better than stock. So, I just placed an order for a set of the FSDs for $649 (w/free shipping) from Tire Rack here. Two shops have given me estimates of $450 & $500 (including alignment) to install them and I'll have to pay another $50 or so for a rental car for the ay.

If I'm happy with the FSD/OEM Sport spring combo that'll be it -- ALL DONE. If I'm NOT happy with this combo, the next stage will be to remove the Sport springs & front/rear sway bars and install the Eibach Pro-kit springs and Eibach or M3 front/rear sway bars (and maybe the rear sub-frame bushings too), which will be a much more expensive proposition than just installing the FSDs AND then, like it or not, that'll be it, because there's no way that I'm going to strip out all of these suspension parts and start all over again.

We'll see . . .

[petelazro]

what is in the little black bag. my car is missing that.

Originally Posted by SSW

Just got my new Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires:



They'll either go on the 162s on the car now or on a new set of 193Ms that I plan to buy.

Also got the wheel locks that I ordered on eBay. They actually came w/2 keys and an almost full set of lug bolts (4 per wheel) too. Didn't expect that.

I now have a complete tool kit in the trunk along w/a BMW first aid kit and the manual in the places where they belong:






Thought about doing a retrofit of the Euro triangle mount in the upper left hand corner of the trunk too, but ultimately decided to pass on that as too much trouble and not worth the effort.

Forgot to take a separate photo of the WeatherTech trunk mat but you can see the edges of it in the pics above.

[SSW]

Originally Posted by petelazro

what is in the little black bag. my car is missing that.

That's the BMW First Aid Kit. It comes standard in European BMWs along w/some other "safety" gear (that we Americans don't get), like an emergency triangle and safety vest, which are required by law over there.

[SSW]

Making progress on the paint work and suspension.

The E90 just went into the body shop for a repaint of the hood & fenders. Also got the owner to agree to re-paint the mirror covers as well for free. Should hit it w/3 coats of color and 2 coats of clear AND it should look BRAND NEW upfront after this is done. Expect the car back by the end of the week

Also just got the Koni FSDs in from Tire Rack today. Will use one of 2 local shops to install them the week after I get the car back from the body shop.

Update 03/18/14:

Just made an appointment to install the Koni FSDs late next week but it was also recommended that I change the bump stops at the same time. So, I ordered a pair of the E36M front and Z4 rear bump stops from ECS Tuning to be installed at the same time as the FSDs.

I also just ordered a pair of 12mm and 15mm VRSF spacers to use with the front and rear 193M wheels and will install them at the same time as the Koni FSDs too.

Update 03/21/14:

The re-painting of the hood, fenders and mirror covers is ALL DONE! Just got the car back today and it looks GREAT. All the nicks and chips are gone. No point in posting pics of it because my camera isn't good enough to show how nice it loooks BUT, take my word for it, the entire front of the car now looks entirely BRAND NEW.

Only thing left now is the install the Koni FSDs, the new bump stops and the VRSF spacers, which is scheduled to be done next week and then I'll truly be ALL DONE!. [U][B]

Updated 03/28/14:

The Koni FSDs were installed w/the E36M and Z4 bumpstops today. The handling and feel of the car is now much better, but I haven't had a chance to really test the suspension out at speed on twisty roads yet. However, I did notice a slight tendency to "bottom" in dips on the way home, which I read in prior reviews of the FSDs. If I decide that the FSDs alone are not sufficient, I'll have to decide whether to add the Eibach or M3 springs & sways (among other things) to improve the suspension further.

BUT, for now, the suspension is also ALL DONE!

[SSW]

Just received 2 pairs of VRSF spacers in 12 & 15mm today; earlier than expected. Installed them and then took some pics and a test drive.

Didn't notice any particular difference in handling with the slightly wider stance front/back but like the subtly different look. The car has the OEM sport suspension, which is already slightly lowered from stock and the wheels are 193M 8x18 ET34 and 8.5x18 ET37. No rubbing w/these tires/spacers. Still a large wheel/fender gap but car may be lowered slightly more after the Koni FSDs are installed next week.

Update 03/28/14:

The Koni FSDs were installed today. Did not notice any significant lowering w/these shocks. Outside edge of the tires looks of w/12mm spacers but could go slightly wider in the rear w/18 or 20mm spacers instead. Not going to change the wheels/tires again. So, I'll have to give that some thought.

Left Rear w/15mm spacer



Right Rear OEM



Right Front w/12mm spacer



Left Front OEM



"Old Look" Left Side



"New Look" Left Side



"New Look" Right Side



New Rear Stance



Update 04/09/14:

Think I mentioned earlier that I thought that there was room for a bigger spacer than 15mm in the rear. So, I picked up a pair of 18mm RS Technik spacers from another forum member today and installed them when I got home. The difference is subtle (it's only 3mm after all) but there is a noticeable difference to me, which I like better but THAT'S IT, I don't think anything would be gained by going any wider. Rubbing shouldn't be a problem. I've got the stock sports package suspension and there's still quite a bit of room between the rear fenders and tires. Don't think there will be a problem even if I go w/the Eibach Pro-kit springs later, which would lower the car another 1/2" or so but I don't plan to do that, since the Koni FSDs are performing so well in combo w/the sports package. I'll just keep an eye on the rear tires to see if there's any evidence of any rubbing and, if not, I'll put my 15mm VRSF spacers up for sale.

18mm Left Rear



18mm Right Rear



New 18mm Left Side



New 18mm Right Side



Update 04/12/14:

Took the car on a drive on a twisty back road w/a lot of dips and surface irregularity and discovered that the right rear passenger side tire rubs when the car hits sharp dips; can see the rubbing on the tire and fender edge. No rubbing on the rear driver's side. Only happens when hitting dips and driving at speed.

Will either have to go back to the 15mm spacers in the rear or just drive slower and more smoothly when hitting poorly paved and uneven road surfaces on the back roads.

Updated 05/12/14:

After a month and less than 1k miles, I decided to remove the 18mm spacers because the tires kept rubbing and I didn't want to roll the fenders. Put the 15mm spacers back on and no more rubbing. So, that's that.

[SSW]

The only other thing that I still thinks needs to be done to the car is to change the brake pads. I'm annoyed with how quickly the wheels get dirty w/brake dust and how often (at least once and sometimes twice a week) I have to clean them.

Tire Rack currently has a sale on Akebono ceramic brake pads, so I ordered a complete set from them today. The brakes and rotors were replaced under CPO by the prior owner only a few months before I bought the car and only have 6000 miles on them now. Found a local brake shop that can turn the rotors and install the pads for just $278 all around. I'll schedule an appointment to get this done too as soon as I get the Akebonos from Tire Rack.

Update 04/01/14:

Just received the Akebono brake pads from Tire Rack and today and made an appointment w/my local brake shop to turn all of the rotors and to install the Akebono pads in a couple of days.

Updated 04/03/14:

LOL! I've jacked up and taken off and put on wheels on my 335i more than I have for any other vehicle I've ever owned. Once to get my front 162 style wheels reconditioned. Then to install the new set of 193M style wheels I bought. Again to install the 12/15mm spacers that I bought. And, again, to take off the spacers before I get the rotors turned and the Akebono brake pads installed tomorrow. And, I'll have to remove them again after the brake work is done, in order to reinstall the spacers. All of this in the span of just a couple of months. Thankfully, I shouldn't have to touch the wheels again after the Akebono pads are installed.

Update 04/04/14:

The rotors were turned and the brake pads were installed this morning. Looks great; no brake squeal. Just have to reinstall the spacers and it'll be ALL DONE!!! Will have to wait to see if the change has a significant effect in reducing the brake dust residue on the wheels. All reports are that it will. The only negative was that it was raining when I took the car to the shop and I'll have to wash it when the sun comes out again. LOL!

Removed the wheels to reinstall the spacers. Of course, the brake shop tightened the sh*t out of the lugs w/their impact gun. They (or someone else) also f*cked w/my tire pressure which was 37.5 all around, instead of 36/41 F/R as I normally have them set per the door jamb setting for 100+ mph. So, it's good that I removed the wheels to re-install the spacers so that I could properly torque the lugs and adjust the tire pressure. I also think that the higher tire pressures generally and the higher rear (than front) tire pressure (in particular) has the effect of reducing over-steer and provide a more neutral feeling in the handling.

[SSW]

Unless something unexpected comes up, everything that I have wanted and needed to do to my 2008 335i E90 has now been done. Couldn't have done it without the information and advice that I obtained from trolling and searching through this forum. Many thanks to those who provided this info, intentionally or not.

Apart from normal and/or unexpected repairs & maintenance, there are only 2 other things that I could possibly want/need to do to the car:

1) installation of the Turner P3 Vent Gauge and/or
2) installation of the Eibach Pro Kit (or similar) springs and sway bars along w/a new set of stock/strut mounts (that I neglected to install with the FSDs), a set of M3 rear subframe bushings and anything else that I can think of to "improve" or upgrade the suspension later, if I decide that the FSDs alone are not "good enough."

For those who do not want to read through the entire f*cking thread, here are the highlights of what I've done to the car over the past 3 months since I bought it:

Engine/Transmission:

Cobb AP3 Stage 1+FMIC sport tune installed
Mishimoto 5" FMIC installed
K&N air filter installed
Alpina B3 AT flash installed
"Golf tee mod" simulator installed
Walnut blast cleaning of the intake valves
Spark plugs and coils replaced
Radiator coolant tank, cap and hoses replaced
Cabin air filter housing & mounting screws replaced

Wheels/Tires/Brakes/Suspension:

Style 193M wheels (8x18 ET34; 8.5x18 ET37) w/new center caps installed
Michelin Pilot Super Sport non-RFT tires (225R40/18; 255R35/18) installed
New Beru Huf TPMS sensors installed in the 193M wheels
VRSF wheel spacers (12mm/15mm) installed
Koni FSD struts/shocks w/E36M & Z4 bump stops installed
New Continental emergency spare tire & jack kit placed in trunk
Rotors turned and Akebono ceramic brake pads installed

Interior/Exterior:

Hood, fenders and mirror covers repainted
Windshield replaced
Weather Tech floor and trunk mats installed
Wood/silver trim AT shift knob installed
Damaged jack pads replaced
Weathered chrome hood trim & missing rubber hood cushions replaced

Electronics:

OEM alarm system installed and programmed
Euro-headlight switch installed to activate the rear "fog" lights

Coding:

Various lighting, turn signal, speedo, door/window/sunroof operation and other iDrive controlled functions were re-coded. The most useful of these for me was the 3 to 6 blink turn signal change. Check post #41 in thread for info regarding the specific coding changes that were done.

Took me much longer that I expected to get all of this done but I am glad that is is now ALL DONE!!

[Localbrew]

Looks great! I like the 18mm better as well.