[loganmecham]

Hello Everyone,

When I described this problem to the local European Car mechanic shop they turned me away "we don't deal with stuff like that anymore".

Maybe someone on here can help me diagnose?

My 2006 330XI decided it didn't want to start for me coming home from the store a couple of days ago. When I inserted the key fob, the airbag light on the dash turned on, and the main console display turned on for a few seconds, then switched back off again. After trying to start it for about 45 minutes, the starter finally engaged and fired my car up just fine, drove home with no issues, but now it won't start again.

Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? My first thought was maybe a problem with my key fob, but it locked and unlocked the car just fine. Maybe an electrical issue?

What should I try next...

[gbalthrop]

We STILL deal with stuff like that!
We can probably help you DIAGNOSE the problem. MINIMUM requirement on your part is a Multimeter ($7 HFT, $10 Amazon):
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter
https://www.amazon.com/Plusivo-Digit...57&sr=8-5&th=1

Whatever the issue was that prevented Starter Cranking "a couple of days ago", for "~ 45 minutes", was an intermittent fault, as it started after ~45 minutes and drove normally to get you home. Now again, NO Crank? If we assume same fault NOW as Earlier, there is an intermittent electrical fault, which COULD include Starter failure.

Proper Diagnosis of the issue could prevent considerable expense in throwing parts. If you are NOT a "car person" who has done his own maintenance, that's OK. We can go slow & explain -- as long as you have the time & interest. If you don't understand questions below, please ask:

Questions:
0) What are Last-7 Characters of VIN, so we can provide correct info for YOUR vehicle?
1) Do you have a Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software to read Fault Codes? We can help even if you do NOT, but fault codes would speed the diagnosis.
2) Measure Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood. What is voltage reading?
2a) Does Remote Key Lock/Unlock doors? Do interior lights come on when Driver Door opened?
3) Insert Remote Key into Insert Compartment, with Driver Door open. Does it lock into place with a "click" that can be heard/felt?
4) What lights appear on Instrument Cluster? Does gong & warning light cease when you close Driver Door?
5) Does Radio play and do brake lights work? (We haven't pressed START button yet).
6) Press START button WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch pedal; does Instrument Panel light-up? Does A/C Control panel light?
7) With hood open and a helper listening over the Left Fender/wing, press Brake/Clutch and START button. Listen carefully for any "Click" that occurs, either inside the car, or beneath the rear of the Intake Manifold (lower rear of engine). Please describe the click(s) and location/origin, whether single click, NO click, or multiple "ratchet-like" clicking?
8) If Automatic Transmission, when you press Brake Pedal with Ignition ON, can you shift out of Park, through R & N to D? When you move shift lever, does corresponding Gear (P,R,N,D) appear on Lower Instrument Cluster display?

With answers to those questions, we can suggest "Next Steps".
George

[loganmecham]

I am somewhat experienced working with cars. I have experience doing some fairly advanced projects, however, I have never had to do extensive work with modern electrical systems.
A little history on the work I have done with this specific vehicle:

-Replaced Thermostat and the Water Pump (Twice)
-Replaced Alternator
-Replaced Battery (Yes, I re-registered it with the car so that the smart charge system wouldn't fry it)
-Replaced brake pads, but not rotors
-Replaced front control arms
-Changed Transfer Case oil
-Changed oil regularly using full synthetic, high mileage for euro-cars oil
-Replaced Eccentric shaft sensor (the one with the common oil leak through the gasket)
-Replaced serpentine belt

-Needs rear O2 sensor replacement, I have the parts but I have not replaced them yet, as I was waiting for it to warm up outside. Utah has cold winters and I don't have a garage.

Now in regards to your questions:

0.) KV63099

1.) I have a cheap wifi/bluetooth one that connects to carly on my phone, but it just stopped working before this problem happened. I'm just going to buy a windows 7 laptop and that special cable + BMW diagnostic software, I'm tired of these junk aftermarket OBD2 apps on my phone. Can you help me find the link to the thread that has all the information for that? Thanks.

2.) I went and got a multimeter today for this one. The reading in V at the jumpstart terminals was 6.5 Volts. I was expecting this to be around 12, isn't that what it is supposed to be?

2a.) The Remote key did unlock and lock the doors a few days ago, but today it is no longer locking or unlocking the doors. The light does not come on inside the cab anymore.

3.) No, today it did not lock in place. I think my battery is dead.

4-8.) Yea now that my battery is dead I don't think these tests are going to tell us anything right now. Strange, because I replaced my battery less than 2 years ago and it was such a headache to register that I thought it would last forever.

Next, I will try to find a way to charge the battery back up. I have a jump start battery pack, but will that thing just fry the sensitive electrical system?

Thanks for your help gbalthrop, what do you think I should do next?

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

We STILL deal with stuff like that!
We can probably help you DIAGNOSE the problem. MINIMUM requirement on your part is a Multimeter ($7 HFT, $10 Amazon):
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...g_q=multimeter
https://www.amazon.com/Plusivo-Digit...57&sr=8-5&th=1

Whatever the issue was that prevented Starter Cranking "a couple of days ago", for "~ 45 minutes", was an intermittent fault, as it started after ~45 minutes and drove normally to get you home. Now again, NO Crank? If we assume same fault NOW as Earlier, there is an intermittent electrical fault, which COULD include Starter failure.

Proper Diagnosis of the issue could prevent considerable expense in throwing parts. If you are NOT a "car person" who has done his own maintenance, that's OK. We can go slow & explain -- as long as you have the time & interest. If you don't understand questions below, please ask:

Questions:
0) What are Last-7 Characters of VIN, so we can provide correct info for YOUR vehicle?
1) Do you have a Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software to read Fault Codes? We can help even if you do NOT, but fault codes would speed the diagnosis.
2) Measure Voltage at the Jumpstart Terminals under the hood. What is voltage reading?
2a) Does Remote Key Lock/Unlock doors? Do interior lights come on when Driver Door opened?
3) Insert Remote Key into Insert Compartment, with Driver Door open. Does it lock into place with a "click" that can be heard/felt?
4) What lights appear on Instrument Cluster? Does gong & warning light cease when you close Driver Door?
5) Does Radio play and do brake lights work? (We haven't pressed START button yet).
6) Press START button WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch pedal; does Instrument Panel light-up? Does A/C Control panel light?
7) With hood open and a helper listening over the Left Fender/wing, press Brake/Clutch and START button. Listen carefully for any "Click" that occurs, either inside the car, or beneath the rear of the Intake Manifold (lower rear of engine). Please describe the click(s) and location/origin, whether single click, NO click, or multiple "ratchet-like" clicking?
8) If Automatic Transmission, when you press Brake Pedal with Ignition ON, can you shift out of Park, through R & N to D? When you move shift lever, does corresponding Gear (P,R,N,D) appear on Lower Instrument Cluster display?

With answers to those questions, we can suggest "Next Steps".
George

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by loganmecham

... I'm just going to buy a windows 7 laptop and that special cable + BMW diagnostic software, I'm tired of these junk aftermarket OBD2 apps on my phone. Can you help me find the link to the thread that has all the information for that?
2.) I went and got a multimeter today for this one. The reading in V at the jumpstart terminals was 6.5 Volts. I was expecting this to be around 12, isn't that what it is supposed to be?
2a.) The Remote key did unlock and lock the doors a few days ago, but today it is no longer locking or unlocking the doors. The light does not come on inside the cab anymore.
3.) No, today it did not lock in place. I think my battery is dead. [QUITE, but a charger will "Revive It"]
... what do you think I should do next?

NEXT: Battery Charger, such as one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/ABLY-Automoti...s%2C92&sr=8-19
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-...2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
https://www.harborfreight.com/21050a...attery+charger

Charge battery at Jumpstart Terminals under hood. If outside temp is at/BELOW freezing, remove battery from car and bring inside to charge, as further damage may occur if left outdoors in freezing temps. When voltage measured at Jumpstart Terminals is > 12.0V, 30 minutes after disconnecting charger, then perform tests again.

Please let us know what you find in those tests, and we'll suggest Next Steps. You MAY have a bad Alternator or some "Parasitic Draw" which is draining battery. You have plenty of auto maintenance experience. Just need to add some "Electrical System Basics" to your toolbox.

As for Diagnostic Software, See the attached pdf's:
1) "E9x References, 220216 Revision", which contains links to downloads for INPA & ISTA. I would simply begin by downloading E89 Datens & BMW Standard Tools (INPA) from the MEGA sites linked on the BimmerGeeks Downloads page. The $50 BG K+DCAN Cable is also reliable.
2) "INPA Tutorial Quickstart" explains HOW to setup your cable and get started with "INPA Functional Jobs". It also contains example screens to show you what the Module Identification screen, and the Error Memory, All Modules screen look like. It also explains other INPA functions such as reading Fault Code Definitions & Freeze Frame Data, Viewing Live Data, and performing "Activations".

Please let us know if any questions downloading or installing INPA/E89 Datens.
George

[loganmecham]

gbalthrop

Thank you for your help so far. I have successfully installed INPA on my laptop and ordered the K+DCAN cable, hopefully that will be able to help me a little later down the line with this project and all my future projects.

I brought out my little gas generator which has a built-in 12V battery charger and hooked it up for a while, but I have little to no faith that it did anything at all to help. The charge cables are thinner on that thing than my multimeter. Next, I will get an actual battery charger, might be able to have my wife pick it up while I am at work then I can slow charge overnight and check tomorrow, but if she can't then I may have to wait until this weekend.

Just for kicks, I decided to break out the multimeter after 'charging' the battery today, 5.1V reading today, down a 1-2V from yesterday. Maybe parasitic draw?

New development, I noticed a strange sound coming from the glove box, after opening it and taking off the fuse cover it's definitely coming from somewhere in there. Maybe a broken/shorted speaker wire is causing a parasitic draw and strange intermittent feedback noise? I also want to start checking some fuses so I'll be looking for a fuse chart soon so that I can start pulling and checking fuses.

I could also pull the battery and take it in to get tested or warrantied... but I'm sure you all know how much of a hassle those are to get in and out.

Anyways, I'm open to opinions on what you think I should do next. The video attached is the strange noise coming from my fuse box area.

[loganmecham]

Update: After replacing my battery, everything is working swimmingly now. When my alternator went bad last year it fried my water pump, so I had to replace it again. It most likely damaged my battery as well. Hopefully, this is the last major electrical problem for a while! I will most likely be making some new threads soon to document some further maintenance repairs when my K+DCAN cable gets here.

Thanks for your help.