Shorted CanBus/Pwr Wire for CIC CID - Now Lost all Interior Power & INPA Comm. ?????

Luper52 · 04-20-2022, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AWDBooSTIn90

Nice to hear you got it all working again. Do you have a link to the Android HU screen you went with? There seems to be so many different but similar versions of it available now..

I went with a Junsun Pro V1 4G Model. 8 core processor, 6GB of RAM, 128GB hard drive. 1270x720. I like it but haven't 100% explored all of the possibilities with it. There is a whole discord dedicated to the ksw units specifically, so if you want direct support with developers, you can get one of those units (not a Junsun). I didn't know about ksw till I had bought mine. However they're both pretty similar. If you do get a Junsun I recommend not getting the 4G version because Wireless CarPlay will be pre-activated out of the box. As for buying a ksw unit, use this wiki for help: https://bit.ly/aah-wiki

AWDBooSTIn90 · 04-20-2022, 04:10 PM

If someone could do me a huge favor I would appreciate it.
Locate your Rear Window Defroster Fuse Slot and remove the Fuse.
Then do a resistance check on the load side of the Defroster to ground and let me know what kind of resistance there should be in a properly working Rear Defroster Grid.

Also I just thought of this now. But has anyone had a washer fluid pump go bad and short out internally?
Because the circuit for the Rear Defroster is pretty simple except for the Beginning and the End there's a connection in the wiring diagram thats not really explained. Im not sure if its for preventing back feeding issues or isolating the Grid from ground to not cause any issues just the heat you're looking for..

Im getting about 4-5ohms on my Rear Defroster Fuse, Load side to Ground. And no continuity between ground and the Line side of the Fuse Slot.

Never has this 10A or any other fuses for that matter, have ever blown. However i didnt try to reinserting a Fuse in that slot because I just wanted to get the car going and the Rear Defroster wasn't a big deal to me and i figured I'll figure that out later. Well now its later lol and i want to get it figured out..

I guess i could just try putting a 5A fuse in there and activating the Rear Defroster and if there's any issues that 5A fuse should blow instantly but i dont have a backup JBE right now incase something did happen..

04-20-2022, 04:10 PM	#24
AWDBooSTIn90 Nomore 149 Rep 793 Posts Drives: 335i Coupe 6MT N54 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Long Island iTrader: (1)	If someone could do me a huge favor I would appreciate it. Locate your Rear Window Defroster Fuse Slot and remove the Fuse. Then do a resistance check on the load side of the Defroster to ground and let me know what kind of resistance there should be in a properly working Rear Defroster Grid. Also I just thought of this now. But has anyone had a washer fluid pump go bad and short out internally? Because the circuit for the Rear Defroster is pretty simple except for the Beginning and the End there's a connection in the wiring diagram thats not really explained. Im not sure if its for preventing back feeding issues or isolating the Grid from ground to not cause any issues just the heat you're looking for.. Im getting about 4-5ohms on my Rear Defroster Fuse, Load side to Ground. And no continuity between ground and the Line side of the Fuse Slot. Never has this 10A or any other fuses for that matter, have ever blown. However i didnt try to reinserting a Fuse in that slot because I just wanted to get the car going and the Rear Defroster wasn't a big deal to me and i figured I'll figure that out later. Well now its later lol and i want to get it figured out.. I guess i could just try putting a 5A fuse in there and activating the Rear Defroster and if there's any issues that 5A fuse should blow instantly but i dont have a backup JBE right now incase something did happen..
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