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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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E92 window won't go down in cold
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11-14-2018, 06:04 AM | #1 |
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E92 window won't go down in cold
Coming up on my first winter with my car and this morning didn't seem promising. It was only -10c (14f) and was able to open the door with a pull but the window didn't go down a little bit as usual with coupes.
So when Iclose it back door wouldn't shut fully. I then re-shut it a bit harder and it worked but was afraid the glass would hit the trim and maybe break something but it didn't. Any way to avoid? Trying to lower the window with the switch it wouldn't go down. There wasn't any freezing rain or snow either, it was just cold. Last edited by TheMidnightNarwhal; 11-14-2018 at 08:25 AM.. |
11-14-2018, 11:13 AM | #2 |
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I'm not familiar with coupes and I'm not sure if there is a reset feature but my pretty confident there is. Other than i would grease the regulator
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11-15-2018, 05:17 PM | #3 | |
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It was cold this morning and it worked. I think it may have actually been the ice at the bottom of window that was blocking it. |
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12-07-2018, 06:10 AM | #4 |
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This morning there was no visual ice and it still wouldn't go down or close properly.
I searched more on this and mainly the issue people are facing is the window is stuck to the top weather strip. But that's not my problem, my problem is I can get the door to open still, but the window doesn't go down at all so when it closes the window hits the top trim. I had to drive like this to work, thankfully the open door chime only chimes once. Even at work, closing the door was a pain. Eventually I was able to shut it and push the window under the trim. Maybe my regulator is failing? |
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12-07-2018, 01:37 PM | #5 | |
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How many times did that problem recur between 11/14 & today, 12/7/2018? If you drive for 20+ minutes with heat on full so that interior of car warms, does the window then work? Have you tried "helping" the window go down by grasping the glass and pressing down? Does the OTHER window work properly (1) using the driver switch cluster, and/or (2) using the passenger switch? Can you control other things such as mirrors and passenger window as normal from the Driver Switch Cluster, and is the driver window the ONLY thing that the Driver Switch Cluster does NOT control properly? That is, do other things controlled by Driver Switch Cluster behave normally during the time that the driver window does NOT operate? Before you start throwing parts at it, or even taking things apart to test or observe, some analysis of the issue with proper information would be advisable. BTW, do you have INPA or any other software that can do Activations or read Status? George |
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12-07-2018, 01:43 PM | #6 |
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So the window isn't going down even after driving the car and everything warming up? Does the window work at all? If yes try the reset method for the window/regulator and if the reset doesn't work then your regulator motor is most likely done if nothing is happening/no noises heard.
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12-07-2018, 01:52 PM | #7 | |
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Problem did not occur until today as it hasn't really been past -8c . Yes I would suppose if I drive for 20 minutes it works after. Because when I come back from work it is usually hotter outside and it works ok. This morning I kind of tried to push it down and wiggle it to maybe crack the ice or whatever was holding it, no luck. I eventually was able to close the door so I could lock my car by shutting the door strongly and physically push the window so it seals under trim, but I'm sure that's not something good to do and might even shatter my window? I had to drive to work with my door half closed, like it was latched but it was telling me to close it and could hear wind coming in lol. One thing that felt odd is as you say, I tried lowering my passenger window from the driver switch, and I could hear it move for like .2 seconds as if it was trying to push through, but driver side I wasn't really hearing anything I recall. I did not try moving my mirrors so I cannot chime in. Thanks George, I appreciate someone helping me out haha, I'm really not sure how to start fixing this like you say without throwing parts at it. Yes I have INPA and ISTA, I think I'll need to reinstall them. tho. |
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12-07-2018, 01:54 PM | #8 | |
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Like I will come back from work and now that it is hotter outside I am sure it's going to work fine now. And the thing is this morning, there isn't even any snow nor freezing rain or ice that I can see |
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12-07-2018, 02:59 PM | #9 | |
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During your ownership, have you noticed any other intermittent issues with the Driver Door Switch Cluster? I assume you have tried to open the window AFTER starting the engine and the switch cluster button still doesn't do anything even when system voltage is ~ 14.5V rather than the ~12.5V without engine/alternator running? Try operating each exterior mirror from the Driver Switch Cluster, both when the driver window is OK, and when it is not. What results? I'm NOT familiar with the coupe cluster controls; Does the Driver Door Switch Cluster control anything OTHER than the front windows and mirrors? If so, try same drill as mirrors described above. Keep in mind that this Cluster is using the LIN-BUS to send signals to the FRM to control the windows & mirrors, so any communication error in the LIN-BUS would cause the intermittent problem you describe. INPA would probably show some type of communication Fault in FRM memory. Here are TIS circuit diagrams for (1) Power Window Inputs and (2) Exterior Mirrors for your 2011 335i E92: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...inputs/uLU1dRI https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...irrors/vBs9cBm Also, it would be key to isolating the cause to the driver switch cluster to try operating the passenger window from the passenger door switch. If you had INPA running, you could activate the driver door window directly via your computer keyboard and bypass the Driver Switch Cluster, further isolating the problem. IDEA 2.0: Since the intermittent fault appears to clearly be related to ambient temp, and metal (think electrical contacts/ wires ;-) contracts with reduced temp, quite possibly a loose/ broken contact/ wire. Linked below is the X257 connector at the front of Driver Door where the LIN-BUS wire from the Door Switch Cluster connects to wiring that goes to the FRM. If I had your issue, I would be particularly interested in the White/Brown wire (LIN_BUS) that goes from Pin #4 of Connector X10725 of the Cluster (A23b) or "Switch block" to Pin #6 of Connector X257 at the door front, and then to Pin #23 of Connector X14260 at the FRM. TIS X257 Wiring Diagram: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...7-x257/bkU1A9q X257 Installation Location: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e92-335i-cou/RHEGwIv X257 Connector View: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-cou/CTDOrVKY Maybe point that heat gun at X257 instead? Please let us know what you find, George |
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12-07-2018, 03:29 PM | #10 | |
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I came back from work and when I pulled the handle the window didn't go down but came out perfectly... looks like it wasn't all the way up all day (maybe when like I said I tried to push it down so it could close it went down by a few millimetres). So got in, noticed window did not roll back up, started the car. Pressed down switch to lower my window and it went down after a .5 struggle. I heard some kind of ice breaking so seems like it was stuck like that. Then the window wouldn't go back up with 1 touch. Drove off and as soon as I did one touch was restored. What I will do to test this out before going the electrical route, I will apply more rubber protector (Sonax gummipfleger) literally all around my window seals, compared to just the door seals that I did before winter. We will see how that works. Once again thanks for that long and thorough reply lol, should come in handy for sure if the gummipfleger doesn't work, I shall let you know! |
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12-08-2018, 05:25 AM | #11 | ||
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12-13-2018, 10:15 AM | #12 |
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BMWs notoriously have pathetic window regulators that don't go down in the winter due to any ice whatsoever.
I've gone through this with E46 and now E92. its a huge issue with coupes because it doesn't function properly and its going to hit the top and then over time just rattle and have a horrible seal etc. I bought a winter beater and learned a lesson that in Canada coupes are not an option for me unless I park it for the winter. |
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12-13-2018, 10:21 AM | #13 | |
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This morning it was -15c and surprisingly both windows were working fine even though I only applied some protector on the driver side. I think it has to do with snow or humidity and than it freezing down in the door? I dunno man this is weird. |
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12-13-2018, 10:35 AM | #14 | |
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it's likely what's in the fancy sonax product. way cheaper. neater to apply not in spray can. Simply wipe it on. |
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12-13-2018, 01:46 PM | #15 | |
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Apparently you can buy some type of spray that melts ice or make your own out of isopropyl and water. So technically if I spray it at the bottom of the window seal it should help in those mornings where it doesn't budge. |
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12-13-2018, 02:01 PM | #16 |
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if you have ice inside the lower window seal you need a new window seal.
grease is acceptable for the top and channels that the glass rides in and touches, but you can't trat the lower window seal with it or it will smear all over the glass. 90% isopropyl alcohol has a freezing point well below 0, but spilling alcohol all over your rubber and paint is not a great solution. Fix the issue, not the symptoms. |
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12-16-2018, 12:18 PM | #17 | |
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01-07-2019, 10:55 AM | #18 | |
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I don't think there is an actual issue with the lower seal, it's just how it is in Canada haha |
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01-07-2019, 10:56 AM | #19 | |
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And I give a weekly touchless wash using optimum no rinse wash and wax and water from the coin wash. |
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